KPA500 Build

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KPA500 Build

w7aqk
Just finished my KPA500 build--number 156.  It went together pretty
smoothly, but I have a suggestion for subsequent builders.  Probably most of
you would have done this anyway, but I didn't!  What I now think is a good
practice, and what I didn't do, is to take all of the screws as you
inventory them and put them in clearly marked and separate trays by size and
type.  They come in various bags, and many of them are confusing to
distinguish from each other since many are very similar in size.  There are
a lot of them!!!!  I didn't remember having that much difficulty
distinguishing screw sizes/types on other Elecraft kits.

I had counted the screws, and marked them on the inventory, going bag by
bag.  I assumed it might be easier to keep them in each bag after inventory,
and that they would then be easier to locate as you build each section.
Problem is, you actually move back and forth a bit, between some of the
sections, and there is a bag of "miscellaneous parts" you have to dip into
now and then.

Anyway, I just think separating them all at the outset is better and faster
ultimately.

The interlock actuator calls for a 4-40 1/2" black flat head screw (P. 39).
I didn't find one, nor do I see one on the inventory.  That's the only parts
list item I couldn't locate.

When I did the "power up" test, to check my mains voltage setting, the
display simply said "MCU LOAD".  That threw me for a minute, and wasn't
mentioned in the instructions as something to expect (hope it is normal!),
but eventually I got a proper display and was able to confirm my line
voltage as being adequate for the way I have the amp configured.

Everything packs in there appropriately, but little room to spare.  I
probably spent 5 or 6 hours putting it together.  I wasn't in a big hurry.
It's a beautiful piece of gear!

Dave W7AQK






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Re: KPA500 Build

Wayne Conrad
On 07/08/11 09:47, David Yarnes wrote:
> Just finished my KPA500 build--number 156.  It went together pretty
> smoothly, but I have a suggestion for subsequent builders.  Probably most of
> you would have done this anyway, but I didn't!  What I now think is a good
> practice, and what I didn't do, is to take all of the screws as you
> inventory them and put them in clearly marked and separate trays by size and
> type.

I like muffin tins (a suggestion I read on here, I think).  And because
I'm afraid I'll have an attack of clumsy and send the contents flying, I
wrap the tin in plastic wrap after I populate it.  A slit made in the
plastic with scissors lets fingers or pliers in to retrieve a part while
still keeping it spill-resistant.
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Re: KPA500 Build

AC7AC
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Re: KPA500 Build

Larry stowell
In reply to this post by Wayne Conrad

When I built my K3 I went to the craft store and bought a plastic box with the dividers. I have an
Dymo label printer and printed out a label for each screw and put it in the divider with each size
screw. Worked well

I also picked up several of the magnetic dishes from Harbor Freight, these work great when have to
take anything apart for the hardware (as long as it magnetic).

73 Larry K1ZW

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Wayne
Conrad
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 1:04 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Build

On 07/08/11 09:47, David Yarnes wrote:
> Just finished my KPA500 build--number 156.  It went together pretty
> smoothly, but I have a suggestion for subsequent builders.  Probably most of
> you would have done this anyway, but I didn't!  What I now think is a good
> practice, and what I didn't do, is to take all of the screws as you
> inventory them and put them in clearly marked and separate trays by size and
> type.

I like muffin tins (a suggestion I read on here, I think).  And because
I'm afraid I'll have an attack of clumsy and send the contents flying, I
wrap the tin in plastic wrap after I populate it.  A slit made in the
plastic with scissors lets fingers or pliers in to retrieve a part while
still keeping it spill-resistant.
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Re: KPA500 Build

gdaught6

> When I built my K3 I went to the craft store and bought a plastic box with the dividers. I have an
> Dymo label printer and printed out a label for each screw and put it in the divider with each size
> screw. Worked well

I used (and still do, when I need to separate and classify small parts) an egg carton.  
One can eat the eggs, then have a handy shop bin with 12 little receptacles.  One can
even buy an 18-pack.

73,

George T Daughters, K6GT
CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
October 1-2, 2011


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Re: KPA500 Build

Pete Smith N4ZR
I bought a fisherman's fly box with a variety of clear plastic dividers
and pockets of various sizes - Walmart is your friend hi

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000



On 7/8/2011 4:50 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

>> When I built my K3 I went to the craft store and bought a plastic box with the dividers. I have an
>> Dymo label printer and printed out a label for each screw and put it in the divider with each size
>> screw. Worked well
> I used (and still do, when I need to separate and classify small parts) an egg carton.
> One can eat the eggs, then have a handy shop bin with 12 little receptacles.  One can
> even buy an 18-pack.
>
> 73,
>
> George T Daughters, K6GT
> CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
> October 1-2, 2011
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
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Re: KPA500 Build

Tony Estep
Not only is a muffin tin an excellent parts bin, but a large cookie sheet is
great for building SMT gadgets. It's conductive, so no static buildup, and
the raised edges keep little parts from ending up on the floor. I got a
muffin tin and cookie sheet at Walmart, $3.50 each. If the shiny surface of
the cookie sheet is too reflective, put a piece of black conductive foam on
it.

Tony KT0NY
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Re: KPA500 Build

AC7AC
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Re: KPA500 Build

Don Wilhelm-4
In reply to this post by Tony Estep
  Tony,

Your cookie sheet is an OK idea, but it gives me cause to insert one of
my safety "hot spots".
When working on a fully conductive surface, keep all power sources at a
safe distance (at least 1 foot greater than your reach).  That goes for
even 9 volt batteries and 13.8 power sources, and of course, the AC
receptacles.

The AC voltage problem is easily recognized - high voltage can kill you,
but not as readily recognized is that low voltage can maim you - suppose
your watch or wedding ring comes in contact with a battery terminal.  
Not only will flying molten metal happen, but your finger or wrist can
be very badly burned by the heat produced.

Work as you see fit, but above all - BE SAFE - low voltage sources can
maim or even kill just as well as high voltage.

There are no fully conducting surfaces in my work area - static mat,
yes, but metal sheets, NO!

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/8/2011 5:07 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> Not only is a muffin tin an excellent parts bin, but a large cookie sheet is
> great for building SMT gadgets. It's conductive, so no static buildup, and
> the raised edges keep little parts from ending up on the floor. I got a
> muffin tin and cookie sheet at Walmart, $3.50 each. If the shiny surface of
> the cookie sheet is too reflective, put a piece of black conductive foam on
> it.
>
> Tony KT0NY
>
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Re: KPA500 Build

kevinr@coho.net
I was at a Red Cross EOC during a training drill as an ECOM operator.  The  
stack of radios were on a folding leg table with an aisle for people to  
pass on the back side of all of those radios.  When I walked into the  
radio room the first thing I saw were all the low voltage lines exposed to  
touch.  I kept telling the folks in control how very dangerous this was.  
They all wore wedding bands and watches which would have welded themselves  
to the power lines.  They did not seem to understand.  "It is only 12  
volts", they said.  "But at how many amps?", I responded.  They did not  
understand the welding concept.  I searched the place and found a bunch of  
tape which I used to cover all the exposed cables.  Even the other radio  
ops did not seem concerned.  I wonder what they would have done if I had  
shorted a screwdriver across one of the rigs?  Sometimes it is very  
difficult to tell folks they are in danger and have them understand it.
    73,
       Kevin.  KD5ONS



On Fri, 08 Jul 2011 15:40:30 -0700, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>  
wrote:

>   Tony,
>
> Your cookie sheet is an OK idea, but it gives me cause to insert one of
> my safety "hot spots".
> When working on a fully conductive surface, keep all power sources at a
> safe distance (at least 1 foot greater than your reach).  That goes for
> even 9 volt batteries and 13.8 power sources, and of course, the AC
> receptacles.
>
> The AC voltage problem is easily recognized - high voltage can kill you,
> but not as readily recognized is that low voltage can maim you - suppose
> your watch or wedding ring comes in contact with a battery terminal.
> Not only will flying molten metal happen, but your finger or wrist can
> be very badly burned by the heat produced.
>
> Work as you see fit, but above all - BE SAFE - low voltage sources can
> maim or even kill just as well as high voltage.
>
> There are no fully conducting surfaces in my work area - static mat,
> yes, but metal sheets, NO!
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/8/2011 5:07 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
>> Not only is a muffin tin an excellent parts bin, but a large cookie  
>> sheet is
>> great for building SMT gadgets. It's conductive, so no static buildup,  
>> and
>> the raised edges keep little parts from ending up on the floor. I got a
>> muffin tin and cookie sheet at Walmart, $3.50 each. If the shiny  
>> surface of
>> the cookie sheet is too reflective, put a piece of black conductive  
>> foam on
>> it.
>>
>> Tony KT0NY
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


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Re: KPA500 Build

Jack
I was working on my car with my wedding ring on.  The car was turned off.  I
was reaching for something and put my hand into the space between the hot
side of the car battery and a tube.  I ALMOST WELDED MY RING TO MY FINGER.
There was hole melted into the ring.  I do not wear the ring any more for
safety sake.  Besides getting shocked wearing it I found that it snags on
things when gardening!

Luckily I have been married to the same understanding woman for 43 years!!

Don and Kevin are correct.  Low voltages can be very dangerous.  Better safe
than sorry!

Jack, AE6GC
****************************************************
I was at a Red Cross EOC during a training drill as an ECOM operator.  The
stack of radios were on a folding leg table with an aisle for people to pass
on the back side of all of those radios.  When I walked into the radio room
the first thing I saw were all the low voltage lines exposed to  
touch.  I kept telling the folks in control how very dangerous this was.  
They all wore wedding bands and watches which would have welded themselves
to the power lines.  They did not seem to understand.  "It is only 12
volts", they said.  "But at how many amps?", I responded.  They did not
understand the welding concept.  I searched the place and found a bunch of
tape which I used to cover all the exposed cables.  Even the other radio ops
did not seem concerned.  I wonder what they would have done if I had shorted
a screwdriver across one of the rigs?  Sometimes it is very difficult to
tell folks they are in danger and have them understand it.
    73,
       Kevin.  KD5ONS



On Fri, 08 Jul 2011 15:40:30 -0700, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
wrote:

>   Tony,
>
> Your cookie sheet is an OK idea, but it gives me cause to insert one
> of my safety "hot spots".
> When working on a fully conductive surface, keep all power sources at
> a safe distance (at least 1 foot greater than your reach).  That goes
> for even 9 volt batteries and 13.8 power sources, and of course, the
> AC receptacles.
>
> The AC voltage problem is easily recognized - high voltage can kill
> you, but not as readily recognized is that low voltage can maim you -
> suppose your watch or wedding ring comes in contact with a battery
terminal.

> Not only will flying molten metal happen, but your finger or wrist can
> be very badly burned by the heat produced.
>
> Work as you see fit, but above all - BE SAFE - low voltage sources can
> maim or even kill just as well as high voltage.
>
> There are no fully conducting surfaces in my work area - static mat,
> yes, but metal sheets, NO!
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/8/2011 5:07 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
>> Not only is a muffin tin an excellent parts bin, but a large cookie
>> sheet is great for building SMT gadgets. It's conductive, so no
>> static buildup, and the raised edges keep little parts from ending up
>> on the floor. I got a muffin tin and cookie sheet at Walmart, $3.50
>> each. If the shiny surface of the cookie sheet is too reflective, put
>> a piece of black conductive foam on it.
>>
>> Tony KT0NY

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Re: KPA500 Build

AC7AC
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