KSB2 screw up

[TJ Campie]

So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it in....only
to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.

Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
was much easier to access but it was a huge **** to get the male header into
the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
and seems to work OK with the module installed.

Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)

Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
works! :D


TJ W0EA
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[daleputnam]

Hi TJ, It will be very interesting to see the other answers/recommendations.  I use a controlled temp soldering iron, a whole lot of rosin and solder wick. And Quick Chip or Cash Olson has a removal kit that is extra nice too. He's the one that has the solder paste, that works so well.   Once in a while, it works well to reflow the board, and pick out the bad part, usually when there is no plastic close at all. The key is a temp contolled iron.Have a great day,

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 > From: [hidden email]

> Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:50:45 -0500
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
>
> So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
> had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
> header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it in....only
> to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
> connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
> the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.
>
> Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
> was much easier to access but it was a huge **** to get the male header into
> the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
> and seems to work OK with the module installed.
>
> Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
> correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)
>
> Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
> wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
> works! :D
>
>
> TJ W0EA
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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[John Cooper]

you can break or cut the plastic between each "pin"  and desolder or heat
each one out individually.  just take your time.  Even a Hakko 808 may have
a problem with so many pins.

WT5Y

-----Original Message-----
From: TJ Campie
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:50 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it in....only
to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.

Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
was much easier to access but it was a huge **** to get the male header into
the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
and seems to work OK with the module installed.

Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)

Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
works! :D


TJ W0EA
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[John Ragle]

Tom...

     Such things are a pain in the ASCII...and I have made several
mistakes of this kinds previously. After fooling around, tearing traces,
etc. I have discovered that BY FAR THE BEST way to go about this is to
use solder braid. You can buy it in small spools from Radio Shack, or
just strip off the cover and core of an old piece of coax. I recommend
the former. A desoldering station is not needed!

     When using the braid, be liberal! Don't try to scrimp and save. The
surface tension of melted solder is very high, and capillary action will
wick it totally into the braid. Heat the braid over the solder and let
it suck up the melt, then move to a new section of braid and repeat.
Eventually, you'll clean up quite a bit of solder with a few inches of
braid.

     I know it sounds hokey, but it works VERY well. At the end, there
will still probably be a little (tiny!) amount of solder holding one or
more pins. With care (and maybe a little help from the XYL or a friend
to provide a third hand) you will be able to move one end of the header
a bit. From there, it is just a matter of applying a bit of heat at the
right places and lifting gently.

     This same technique works well with DIP packages and with thru-hole
components.

     It is often NOT POSSIBLE to save the component. In the case of DIP
devices, you can always cut off the legs to make the removal process
easier. In the case of the header you are working on, be careful not to
apply so much heat that you melt the plastic around the pins.

     The secret is patience, NOT lots of heat. Take good care of the
traces on the circuit board. A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear
remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the
actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the
top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a "pin vise" for this kind
of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.

On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote:
> ...how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
> correctly?
--
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Tom,

It won't help you with that task right now since you have already done
the deed, but the process is easy.
For removing the male headers, you can tug on one pin with pliers while
heating the solder - that pin will come out - continue while they are
all out.
For the female headers, the plastic cover can be removed by prying it up
a bit at a time starting with a sharp instrument like a knife edge and
progressing to a screwdriver tip.  Once the cover is off, remove each of
the pins one at a time.

Ok, the header pins are removed, but you still have solder to clean up
so you can put the new part in - use solder wick to remove as much as
you can, but there will likely be some left in the holes.  I like to use
a stainless steel needle - heat the solder pad and push the needle into
the hole.  If you do not have a stainless steel needle handy, a wooden
toothpick will also work in a similar manner.

Even though I have a de-soldering station, I often use the needle method
to open the holes.  It works for me.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote:
>
> Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
> correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)
>
>
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

John,

Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on
the component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the
situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
- you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered
on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult
if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits
right down on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure
is to repair the break with point to point wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
>      A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear
> remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the
> actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the
> top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a "pin vise" for this kind
> of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.
>
>
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[John Ragle]

Don:

Well, since you put this out to public view, I will answer in public.
Please note my admonition to BE CAREFUL, and my suggestion to use a pin
vise, not a powered device. There is no need for a complicated set of
"rules of behavior" when common sense will do.

If you are so concerned about damaging the grommet, then please note
that the SHANK end of a fine circuit-board drill-bit is just as
effective as the stainless steel needle you recommend...it also will not
be wetted by the melted solder...and is probably infinitely more
available than a stainless needle.

The dominant part of my advice was to use solder braid early and often,
and that a fancy desoldering station is, in the main, unnecessary for
the casual repair of a circuit-board blunder. My suspicion is that most
people who do HB construction have the necessary tools at hand.

My opinion (since we are talking about personal opinions or choices) is
that anyone foolish enough to drill out a thru-plated hole probably
doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hammer on anyhow.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=====

On 9/13/2011 11:48 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> John,
>
> Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
> thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on
> the component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the
> situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
> - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
> hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered
> on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult
> if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits
> right down on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure
> is to repair the break with point to point wire.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
>>       A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear
>> remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the
>> actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the
>> top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a "pin vise" for this kind
>> of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.
>>
>>
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>
>
>

--
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

--
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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[Fred Townsend]

Don, I worked in a large factory where we had a large rework department and
I saw a lot of alternative methods for removing connectors and as you said
each to his own. I second, your caution to never use a pin vise and drill.
The wall thickness is usually less than 0.001". The odds on getting a
correctly sized drill are not good.

I once had to change a lot of connectors in the field without the assistance
of a rework department. Even after removing the pins I still had a lot of
solder in the holes. Because the replacement pins were large the holes had
to be cleaned out very well. I mounted the board on edge in a Panavise. Then
using a 800 degree small conical tip iron pushed straight into the hole on
one side for about 5 seconds, I chased the hole from the other side with a
short burst of canned air. Cauntion1: Be sure to wear eye protection because
the solder can splatter.  If it's done right the iron will collect the
excess solder.
Caution2: Don't use an overly large or small iron and get on and get off the
hole quickly. Too much heat will cook the hole out of the board.

It's very fast and the hole cleans up well.  

73,
Fred, AE6QL

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

John,

Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the
component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the situation where
the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
- you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on
the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the
component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down
on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure is to repair the
break with point to point wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
>      A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the
> holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this
> may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the
> PC board. I use a "pin vise" for this kind of operation, not a Dremel
> or other power device.
>
>

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[Mercury]

When I built my K1 I actually installed a male connector in the wrong set of holes and was able to successfully remove it without destroying it. I used a large solder sucker (plunger type) and cleared one hole at at time. With a little additional heating and wiggling I was able to pull the header free. I was probably lucky not to have destroyed the board, but it worked.

William, AI4VE
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[Wayne Conrad]

I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite "fix the goof" soldering
tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe
that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
that just where the conversation led?

73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Wayne,

That is just where the conversation led.  I would not trade my Hakko 808
for solder braid - but there are times when solder braid is the best
answer, use whatever will do the best job.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 4:37 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite "fix the goof" soldering
> tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe
> that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
> solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
> that just where the conversation led?
>
>
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[Brendan Minish]

I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
suckers that you use with your normal iron.
There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure
it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn.

If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB
boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters.
An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free
stock to your junk box.

Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure
that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems
to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and
don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next
bit of the job.


73
Brendan EI6IZ

On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote:

> I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite "fix the goof" soldering
> tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe
> that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
> solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
> that just where the conversation led?
>
> 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
> ______________________________________________________________
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--
73
Brendan EI6IZ

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[daleputnam]

One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type.... be very aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction.  

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 > From: [hidden email]

> To: [hidden email]
> Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 00:12:51 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
>
> I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
> suckers that you use with your normal iron.
> There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
> to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure
> it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn.
>
> If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB
> boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters.
> An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free
> stock to your junk box.
>
> Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure
> that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems
> to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and
> don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next
> bit of the job.
>
>
> 73
> Brendan EI6IZ
>
> On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> > I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite "fix the goof" soldering
> > tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe
> > that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
> > solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
> > that just where the conversation led?
> >
> > 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> --
> 73
> Brendan EI6IZ
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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[DaveL G3TJP]

I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for
me.  A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the
main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong
side of a part built K2 RF board.  The board was returned to its owner with
the same right angled connector soldered on the correct side, allowing
construction to continue and to the best of my knowledge, that K2 continues
in good health to this day.  That was also a mighty tribute to the quality
of PCB material that Elecraft specify.  Thanks, E.

 

I find that the application of sufficient heat holds the key to a good
"suck."  Sufficient heat is needed to melt the solder on the joint side,
through the PTH and on to melt any solder that's gone through to the
component side.  There's a fine dividing line between sufficient heat and a
barbecue, which boils down to experience, lots of practice and is often
blessed with a wee bit of luck.

 

I'm currently fitting a K6XX board (thanks, Ron) to a K1 and I didn't like
the location shown in the instructions.  By moving RP1 and R6 to the other
side of the front panel board, a large area is created for the K6XX.
There's always a "but" and in this case, it's the need to separate the front
panel PCB from the front panel itself to adjust the detector's audio pitch,
but then, it should only need doing once <<G>>

 

I have a full size Edsyn Soldapult but find it too big for most
requirements, however, Edsyn have a closeout offer on page 7 of their
clearance items for a PT509 tool at just $6.99.
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear
<http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear&pg=7> &pg=7

 

There has to be a catch and it's a $25 minimum order, but if two or three
friends combine orders, together with a couple of spare tips on offer at
$1.50 each and maybe an "O" ring or two, that sum is all too easily
exceeded.

 

Don't expect Elecraft service from Edsyn.  I placed an (overseas) order with
them and had to chase it.  I tried telephoning, but my North of
England-tuned hearing couldn't understand what they were saying.  Suffice it
to say, the order eventually arrived and I was more than pleased with the
smaller device.

 

Chipquik has been mentiond before, but are worthy of another mention, as the
Company offer a free sample, which is not to be passed up.  Although they
focus on SMT technology, there's no reason it can't be used to aid removal
of a stubborn pin or two in a multipin device.  http://www.chipquik.com/

 

Much has been said lately about clearing plated through holes as part of a
re-work.  I find that feeding a bit more fresh solder into a PTH until it is
full and then using the solder sucker usually clears the hole extremely well
and requires no additional tools.  I find solder braid to be a waste of time
when clearing holes, but I do use it, after cleaning barbecued flux residue
away, to clear solder from flat surfaces, so pads are returned to flatness.
If you have a flux pen, run the pen tip over both sides of the unused wick
before use.  It helps it work even better.

 

73  Dave G3TJP

 

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[k5oai]

Couldn't afford the vacuum kit I wanted,
so  I built a low end wantabe tool for my desoldering tasks.

I have combined a Radio Shack 45-Watt Desoldering Iron
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

and one of Radio Shack's (popper styled) Vacuum Desoldering Tool
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745

I removed the, IMO, useless rubber bulb on the Desoldering Iron
and attached a short piece of tubing between
where the bulb was removed and the tip of the 'popper' desoldering tool.

this way I can apply heat to the location
then hit the popper's release
hopefully sucking up (most of) the solder residue

sometimes I even using the popper as a blower
to clear some of the offending solder....
hold the iron tip in place and push the popper down
as though you were going to cock it,
but don't complete the stroke to where it catches it's hold position

just be sure you don't blow the solder onto another part of a board
where you have to remove the mess you just made,
don't ask how I know this...

Sometimes I have also use the stainless needles as a last resort
but be sure the needle is small enough
to pass all the way through the hole

again with the how do I know this bit.....
I used a needle a little to fat  for the hole and ended up
pushing the through hole, through the pcb hole, duh.


ymmv

GB & 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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[DaveL G3TJP]

Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn.  They charge a monumental sum
for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical
method and then they refund the difference back onto your card.  They say
it's due to a very old website????

 

Sorry I didn't mention it before and I hope no-one had a coronary when they
saw the cost come up.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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