KX-1 has been born, TWICE

[B. G.]

Hi all,

I haven't seen this type of post before, so smile & enjoy.  I just completed my KX-1, S/N  2074,  with the ATU and the 30-80 option.  
My unit was 'born' twice, because a while ago, I tested the original 20-40 unit  then the ATU.  Worked perfectly.  QSL's rcvd, both bands.

I completed the 30-80 boards the other day, and it again works perfectly.  30-80 had WWV & readable signals right from the power up.  I don't know if my unit has special parts (sent by Wayne) or not   ;)      RX current draw is  < 40 Ma. on 20-40,  < 41 Ma. on 30 and < 61 Ma. on 80, using 13.6 volts.

Now for final RX alignment peaking and final adjustment for TX output.  Then rigging up my gel cell power supply and I'll be all set.

My only nit-pick refers to the (routing) of the green toroid wire L2-1 from the LPF1 module to the KX-1 BOARD.  The errata sheet gives the 100% correct procedure, but practicality told me it won't work.  After a quick call to Scott & a call from Don W.,  a procedure was suggested which I recommend for all builders.  Maybe Don can post on the reflector.  It involves using a 3/16" piece of the Green insulation.  WORKS PERFECTLY.  Thanks guys.

Question, I've talked to Don W, and others, but I'd personally appreciate comments on E mail for suggestions on the "best" effective single 'cheap' portable antenna which will load WELL on 80 meters ..... and on the other 3 bands too.  I'm looking for a permanent antenna at home and a smaller one for portable.

Great kit, much fun building it and now to get my code speed up to 5 wpm before FD.......

72,

Bob, W9EWW   (K1 #746) (KX-1 #2074) (K3 #xxx?)

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Bob and all,

Bob is correct, the free green lead of L2 must not make contact with the
L2 lead 4 (red) solder pad or wire.
The manual tells the builder to strip the green wire leaving 1/8 inch
(3mm) of insulation beyond the point where the wire leaves the core.  
First step, do that, it may be adequate with no further work, but read on.

After L2 is mounted on the board, next step is to form the green wire so
it passes behind the LPF board at a location above the solder pad for L2
lead #4.

Then, take a look at it, and if you find that the green wire lead has
any chance of contacting the L2 lead 4 solder pad at the back of the
board once it is mounted, use a 3/16 inch (4.5mm) piece of insulated
tubing (cut from the same wire you used to insulate the + lead of the
electrolytic capacitor) on this green lead.
Yes, the thickness of the insulation will move the LPF board a bit away
from KX1 board J7. but push the board as tightly against J7 as possible
and all should be fine.

As another hint, the Low Pass Filter board should be positioned so the
outer edges of L1 and L2 are aligned right at the edge of the KX1 board
- you can 'eyeball' this condition, but do it before soldering the leads
of the LPF board to the KX1 board.  Test fit the KXAT1 before putting
the KX1 board in the enclosure.  If there is interference, you can
usually move the KXAT1 T1 core over a bit to make room for the KXB3080
LPF board - the clearances are tight, but they do work out.

Above all, work carefully building this KXB3080 LPF board, and be doubly
certain that the toroid leads are well stripped - flush trim the relay
leads so they do not injure the enamel on the toroids.  Problems with
this board is the most frequent cause of failure with the KXB3080
installation - again work carefully, strip the toroid leads well, and do
not use excess solder, and success can come to you too.

73,
Don W3FPR


B.G. wrote:
>
> My only nit-pick refers to the (routing) of the green toroid wire L2-1 from the LPF1 module to the KX-1 BOARD.  The errata sheet gives the 100% correct procedure, but practicality told me it won't work.  After a quick call to Scott & a call from Don W.,  a procedure was suggested which I recommend for all builders.  Maybe Don can post on the reflector.  It involves using a 3/16" piece of the Green insulation.  WORKS PERFECTLY.  Thanks guys.
>  
>
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