KX1 #02140
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Hello Elecrafters,
Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days. I have been getting the required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it a lot easier. So far I have what I think will get me started, the big item was a soldering station. I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering station which is basically a Madell AT201D. I did not realize that the RS version did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course. The tip included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I ordered the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras. I also bought a anti static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key. My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then add the antenna tuner. Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it, not to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board. I thought about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built a kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I think the one thing at a time plan would be best for me. I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that will be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm already looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2. Ed |
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Ed,
You have made a wise choice. There is one thing you can do to make things easier when you add the KXB3080 - mount L6 on the bottom of the KX1 board during the initial build. Other than that small item, follow the manual carefully and build in the order indicated in the manual. The KX1 is packed tight with components, so pay particular attention to the 'mechanical' side of the instructions. Work at your own pace, and do not work on it when you are tired. If you are not experienced at soldering PC boards with thru-plated holes, take a look at the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft Builder's Resource page. For the KX1 especially, but it goes for other kits too, pay attention to the amount of solder - apply no more than necessary to fill the hole plus a very small amount to flow into a smooth fillet. Use a sufficiently high temperature (700-750 deg F) and watch the solder as it melts and flows - it should flow out to a smooth, almost invisible edge on both the component lead and the solder pad. Insufficient heat and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated solder joint. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Don W3FPR EMD wrote: > Hello Elecrafters, > > Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days. I have been getting the > required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over > whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it > a lot easier. So far I have what I think will get me started, the big item > was a soldering station. I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering station > which is basically a Madell AT201D. I did not realize that the RS version > did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section > I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course. The tip > included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I ordered > the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras. I also bought a anti > static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key. > > My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then add > the antenna tuner. Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it, not > to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board. I thought > about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built a > kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I think > the one thing at a time plan would be best for me. > > I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that will > be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm already > looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2. > > Ed > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Hi Don,
That's a great idea with L6 the less rework I have to do only increases my chances of success. The soldering station I bought has three preset temps and you can also set an exact temp so hopefully cold solder joints will not be a problem. Thanks for the tip, Ed Doyle KE7HGA Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From: "Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)" Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 05:49:57 -0800 (PST) To: EMD<[hidden email]> Subject: Re: KX1 #02140 Ed, You have made a wise choice. There is one thing you can do to make things easier when you add the KXB3080 - mount L6 on the bottom of the KX1 board during the initial build. Other than that small item, follow the manual carefully and build in the order indicated in the manual. The KX1 is packed tight with components, so pay particular attention to the 'mechanical' side of the instructions. Work at your own pace, and do not work on it when you are tired. If you are not experienced at soldering PC boards with thru-plated holes, take a look at the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft Builder's Resource page. For the KX1 especially, but it goes for other kits too, pay attention to the amount of solder - apply no more than necessary to fill the hole plus a very small amount to flow into a smooth fillet. Use a sufficiently high temperature (700-750 deg F) and watch the solder as it melts and flows - it should flow out to a smooth, almost invisible edge on both the component lead and the solder pad. Insufficient heat and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated solder joint. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Don W3FPR EMD wrote: > Hello Elecrafters, > > Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days. I have been getting the > required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over > whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it > a lot easier. So far I have what I think will get me started, the big item > was a soldering station. I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering station > which is basically a Madell AT201D. I did not realize that the RS version > did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section > I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course. The tip > included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I ordered > the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras. I also bought a anti > static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key. > > My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then add > the antenna tuner. Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it, not > to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board. I thought > about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built a > kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I think > the one thing at a time plan would be best for me. > > I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that will > be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm already > looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2. > > Ed > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@... This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html This email is a reply to your post @ http://n2.nabble.com/KX1--02140-tp2295382p2297257.html You can reply by email or by visting the link above. |
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Phase one of the build is complete and everything has checked out. No smoke or frying parts! So far this has been an enjoyable process. I've taken my time and not worked late and still made a minor mistake, I overlooked installing J1 after D1 and did not figure it out until I was going to try the phase one alignment and there was no where to plug power in. Oops! So it looks like I need to be just a little more careful with phase two.
Ed
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In reply to this post by EMD
Congratulations on your KX1 kit. I'm sure you will really enjoy building the kit. I completed building a K2 about a month ago and enjoyed every minute. I would suggest the purchase of a lighted magnifier because it makes the construction and soldering much easier. Doing the soldering using a magnifier takes a little getting used to, but once you develop the hand eye coordination of the iron under the magnifier you will find it much less stressful making the solder connections.
I bought a low cost lighted magnifier from Staples for around $30. It was worth every penny. Fred, KC9QQ
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Hi Fred,
Thanks and the same to you for finishing your K2. That looks like a real fun project. I would someday like to build a K2 but I think my next project will be the 4 band K1. I have a lot to learn and I enjoy putting things together and it keeps me busy. I will pick up a magnifier, I wear glass with bifocals and I end up taking the glasses off and doing the soldering up close and personal with my PCB about 12 inches away from my face. I did buy a nice light that helps in reading finding parts out of the bags. I had a question about soldering. Does the solder need to flow over the lead on both sides of the PCB or is one side with a clean connection okay? Anyhow thanks for your thoughts, Ed, KE7HGA
On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:28 PM, KC9QQ (via Nabble) wrote: Congratulations on your KX1 kit. I'm sure you will really enjoy building the kit. I completed building a K2 about a month ago and enjoyed every minute. I would suggest the purchase of a lighted magnifier because it makes the construction and soldering much easier. Doing the soldering using a magnifier takes a little getting used to, but once you develop the hand eye coordination of the iron under the magnifier you will find it much less stressful making the solder connections. |
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Ed,
The solder needs to flow into the thru-plated hole. Use good solder, preferably a 63/37 alloy, although a 60/40 will do as well. The flux should be of the mildly activated type. Diameter should not be greater than .020 inches (I prefer .015) so you have control over the amount of solder applied. If your solder is old, throw it away and use new solder. Watch as the solder flows - it should flow out onto both the solder pad and the component lead to an almost invisible edge. Globbing on more solder will not help, but certainly will mask a poor solder connection. If you get excess solder applied, wick the excess off and re-solder with a bit of additional flux. 73, Don W3FPR EMD wrote: > Hi Fred, > > Thanks and the same to you for finishing your K2. That looks like a > real fun project. I would someday like to build a K2 but I think my > next project will be the 4 band K1. I have a lot to learn and I enjoy > putting things together and it keeps me busy. > > I will pick up a magnifier, I wear glass with bifocals and I end up > taking the glasses off and doing the soldering up close and personal > with my PCB about 12 inches away from my face. I did buy a nice light > that helps in reading finding parts out of the bags. > > I had a question about soldering. Does the solder need to flow over > the lead on both sides of the PCB or is one side with a clean > connection okay? > > Anyhow thanks for your thoughts, > > Ed, KE7HGA > On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:28 PM, KC9QQ (via Nabble) wrote: > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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