I fired up the KX1 at a park near San Jose, California
last night for the Spartan Sprint. Lots of fun - Worked 15 states with a total of about 40 QSOs on 20M and 40M. All corners of the country on 2W. Antenna was a 27' wire hanging vertically from a tree, and I had a 16' and 23' counterpoise. Then, as I was about to pack up, I heard a station around 14.058 calling CQ FISTS. Callsign was ZL2SWR with a solid signal! I called back and worked Stan in Greytown, New Zealand on the first try. We had several exchanges for about 10 minutes with Q5 copy. Incredible! 6725 miles on 2W and a 27' wire in a tree! I tuned over to 14.100 and listened for the beacons. Sure enough, I could copy all four tones from Hawaii and New Zealand. 100 mW from ZL! After tuning around, I heard many calls from Russia and then later from Eastern Europe. If you're looking for a new country or distance record on your KX1, try tonight around 0300 to 0500 UTC. 73, Mike N9OHW ____________________________________________________________________________________ Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
What a great post! Reports like this are why I can't wait to get my KX1 built.
-- 73, Mike, KC0KBC Yaesu FT-857D, FT-8800R, VX-7RB Elecraft KX1 #1819 (awaiting birth), XG2 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Michael Madden <[hidden email]> > I fired up the KX1 at a park near San Jose... and worked Stan in > Greytown, New Zealand on the first try. We had > several exchanges for about 10 minutes with Q5 copy. > Incredible! _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Michael Madden-3
Hi all,
I'm at the point with my KX1 build to wind my first torroid and I have a question. In the man it says to cut 13" of red wire, after winding 14 turns on a yellow core, I still have a lot of extra wire. Almost 2" on one side and about 4.5" on the other. Is this the norm? Just want to make sure things are right before I trim and tin. Thanks -chris ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Chris,
Here are some things about toroids. 1. Everybody tells you to count the turns as you go through the toroid, but nobody ever tells you how to check it afterwards. Once you've wound, count the number of turns on the inside of the ring and you can verify the number to make sure it's right. 2. There's two ways to wind them and they "wind up" being mirror images. Sometimes it doesn't matter, but usually you have to do it the right way or else it won't line up with the holes. Start out either left on top or right on top, and keep it that way. Once you've wound it and it doesn't fit the board, flipping the toroid itself over won't help. 3. Pay careful attention to getting the enamel insulation off the ends of the wire, up to and just past the point where the wire goes into the board. Any insulation that touches the PC board is a recipe for trouble. Don't wear shorts when you're tinning the leads. (Not that I have any experience with that...) 4. If there are pictures, make the toroid windings look like the pictures. If not, make it take up 80% of the core. See also #2 if there are pictures. 5. Always double and triple check to make sure none of the windings cross over each other or get "knotted" up. (Remember in Ghostbusters when they said, "Never cross the streams!" They didn't say why, but my guess is that it has to do with flux linkages.) 6. And finally, if you want to eliminate that asymmetric wire, you can run center the wire in the toroid before winding by holding both ends of the wire, making it into a U and, and dangling the toroid from the center of the wire like a necklace or a charm bracelet. Then wind back both ways, (N-1)/2 turns. The wire will always come out centered. Unfortunately, you have to think harder to deal with #2 if you do this, because everything winds up backwards from how you start. Obviously this works out best for odd-numbered turns counts. For even counts of turns, give one side an extra turn and start it out longer by 1/2" for T30 and 1" for T50. 73 es GL, Leigh/WA5ZNU > Hi all, > > I'm at the point with my KX1 build to wind my first > torroid and I have a question. > > In the man it says to cut 13" of red wire, after > winding 14 turns on a yellow core, I still have a lot > of extra wire. > > Almost 2" on one side and about 4.5" on the other. > > Is this the norm? > > Just want to make sure things are right before I trim > and tin. > > Thanks > -chris > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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