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The build of my KX1 seems to be going nicely. I liked the idea that I got
from reading several posts of others building the KX1 - that is to start with a DL1 kit and then do the ATU before starting the KX1. So, that is how I began. The DL1 and the ATU are done, or I should say as much as the ATU can be before needing the KX1. As folks have stated before, the instructions are great. I completed Part 1 of the build Wed evening and was able to check it out up to the AC voltage checks. Everything was within 0.02 of the value required. However, my DMM isn't able to check AC milli-Volts and I don't have ready access to another DMM. I did check all of the capacitors and solder joints and everything looks good. Is it safe to assume (don't you love that word?) that the AC voltages are OK if all of the other things check out at spec levels? All of the indications after those steps work just fine. If I can get access to another DMM later, can I go back and check those values, or does the installation of the Part 2 components alter the readings? Second question: I read ahead a little on the Part 2 instructions and was a little confused with the C56 installation on page 34. Why does it have you solder pins 2 and 3 of K1 when it seems that you cut them later and then solder C56 to the pads? Wouldn't it be neater to cut the leads before soldering and then put C56 on those pads? Or am I misunderstanding that step? It was really good to see things light up after the Part 1 build! Positive reinforcement is a great thing!! Thanks in advance. Ken - AB8GQ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Hi Ken. Glad you are having fun with the KX1 build. I'll let someone else
comment on your first question, but as to the second: In the latest assembly instructions for the KX1, on page 34- the instructions for C56 -do- have you cut the relay pins before adding C56 and soldering. You do this at this stage because the area is very crowded with parts added later, and would be difficult to access. Have fun! Bruce, N1RX > Second question: I read ahead a little on the Part 2 instructions and > was a little confused with the C56 installation on page 34. Why does > it have you solder pins 2 and 3 of K1 when it seems that you cut them > later and then solder C56 to the pads? Wouldn't it be neater to cut > the leads before soldering and then put C56 on those pads? Or am I > misunderstanding that step? ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Ken Race
Ken,
Cutting the leads of the relay before soldering can cause internal damage to the relay - solder first and then trim the leads. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/24/2011 6:13 AM, Kenneth Race wrote: > Second question: I read ahead a little on the Part 2 instructions and was a > little confused with the C56 installation on page 34. Why does it have you > solder pins 2 and 3 of K1 when it seems that you cut them later and then > solder C56 to the pads? Wouldn't it be neater to cut the leads before > soldering and then put C56 on those pads? Or am I misunderstanding that > step? > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Boy, do I feel stupid. I reread the section yesterday after work. Apparently, I missed the part about turning the board over. It's a good thing that this was just a read ahead. I also looked at Ron Bower's (AC2C) website. He has some great pictures of the board (front and back) at the various stages of build. When I realized that C56 was on the opposite side of the board from K1, it all made more sense. Thanks again for your help.
73, Ken AB8GQ |
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