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KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

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n7wm

KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

After completing a KX1 kit and I ordered and built the 30/80 adapter. The
conversion required removal of several capacitors, resistors, toroids, and
a choke that were originally installed on the KX1 board. If you are
anticipating installation of the adapter, I suggest a careful evaluation
of the assembly manuals to determine which new components will be needed.
Installation of these new components during the original construction of
the KX1 would eliminate desoldering and removal of the old components. The
desoldering method that works best for me is to heat and remove the
component. Then, reheat and quickly blow on the area to clear melted
solder. Close placement of components on the KX1 board prevents the use
of a solder sucker.

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KENT TRIMBLE

Re: KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

I respectfully disagree with the suggestion below. My recommendation is
to complete the KX1 first in order to make sure it's working perfectly.
THEN do the 3080 upgrade. If you have problems after installing the
upgrade, you will thus know that the error is somewhere in the upgrade
work, not the original KX1 work. I also recommend "playing" with the
KX1 for a while before doing the 3080 upgrade in order to familiarize
yourself with its operation and menus.

I had no problems with either kit other than being shorted a resistor in
the RF output mod which Elecraft quickly sent me.

Finally, my opinion only, but a Hakko desoldering gun is the cat's meow
for removing components and also removing the enamel from and tinning
(at the same time) torroid wires.

73,

Kent K9ZTV

[hidden email] wrote:

>After completing a KX1 kit and I ordered and built the 30/80 adapter. The
>conversion required removal of several capacitors, resistors, toroids, and
>a choke that were originally installed on the KX1 board. If you are
>anticipating installation of the adapter, I suggest a careful evaluation
>of the assembly manuals to determine which new components will be needed.
>Installation of these new components during the original construction of
>the KX1 would eliminate desoldering and removal of the old components. The
>desoldering method that works best for me is to heat and remove the
>component. Then, reheat and quickly blow on the area to clear melted
>solder. Close placement of components on the KX1 board prevents the use
>of a solder sucker.
>
>
>
>

Mark J. Schreiner

Re: Re: KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

In reply to this post by n7wm

Okay, so I got a KX1, KXB3080 & KXAT1 for Christmas from my XYL (first time she has ever bought me anything for the hobby, YEAH!). A couple of years ago I built my K2 with all accessories and haven't really had any issues. I had preinstalled some of the components in the K2 to make things easier when it came time to install the other modules later, and I'm glad I did. So far we have two differences of opinion on the subject with the KX1. Is there any particular reason others see for doing it one way or the other? Obviously, following the directions explicitly is a sure fire recipe toward success, although problems can still occur. I just don't really see the need to be so explicit if there are some smart things that can be done to make future planned (short term) upgrades easier. I think that as long as the modifications in the assembly do not result in different results when attempting to do alignment or testing then it should not matter.

Mark, NK8Q

>I respectfully disagree with the suggestion below. My recommendation is
>to complete the KX1 first in order to make sure it's working perfectly.
>THEN do the 3080 upgrade. If you have problems after installing the
>upgrade, you will thus know that the error is somewhere in the upgrade
>work, not the original KX1 work. I also recommend "playing" with the
>KX1 for a while before doing the 3080 upgrade in order to familiarize
>yourself with its operation and menus.
>
>I had no problems with either kit other than being shorted a resistor in
>the RF output mod which Elecraft quickly sent me.
>

Steve Banks

Re: KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

In reply to this post by KENT TRIMBLE

Kent,

I alsoI have a Hakko 808 desoldering pump, which is indeed a GREAT tool. Is yours a similar unit? If so, can you enlighten me on how you use it for toroids?

73,

Steve B!anks
K0PQ
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: K9ZTV <[hidden email]>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:33:48
To:[hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

I respectfully disagree with the suggestion below. My recommendation is
to complete the KX1 first in order to make sure it's working perfectly.
THEN do the 3080 upgrade. If you have problems after installing the
upgrade, you will thus know that the error is somewhere in the upgrade
work, not the original KX1 work. I also recommend "playing" with the
KX1 for a while before doing the 3080 upgrade in order to familiarize
yourself with its operation and menus.

I had no problems with either kit other than being shorted a resistor in
the RF output mod which Elecraft quickly sent me.

Finally, my opinion only, but a Hakko desoldering gun is the cat's meow
for removing components and also removing the enamel from and tinning
(at the same time) torroid wires.

73,

Kent K9ZTV

[hidden email] wrote:

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Don Wilhelm-3

RE: Re: KX1 and KXB3080 build suggestion

In reply to this post by Mark J. Schreiner

Mark and folks,

IF one is familiar with the KX1 basic circuits AND the KXB3080 circuits, AND
IF one has very cood and methodical troubleshooting techniques if something
goes wrong, AND IF you can integrate two sets of instructions, AND IF you
have a VERY high confidence in your ability to properly follow all the
instructions correctly the FIRST time through AND to work without error -
then by all means, add the KXB3080 option at the same time as the initial
KX1 build.

BUT --- if you are lacking in ANY ONE of the above criteria, I recommend
highly that you complete and test the basic KX1 before tackling the KXB3080
(the KXB3080 LPF board requires a lot of care and is where many builders
have trouble). Yes, there is one thing that you can do to save removing one
component - put L6 on the back side of the board when assembling the base
KX1.

Be aware that the base KX1 cannot be properly tested independently withe the
KXB3080 parts installed and you may not know where the failure has occurred
should something not work in the end. To make matters worse, the KXB3080
board covers a number of base KX1 components and solder connections, and
should a problem in the base KX1 be discovered, you may have to remove the
KXB3080 just to troubleshoot the base KX1.

Yes, I routinely build up the KX1 and the KXB3080 together myself, but then
I have built many of them. I did not attempt that feat until the 5th one
that I had built - there is just too much that can go wrong - even things
that are easily corrected in the base KX1 become complex to repair if the
combination is all in place.

It is true that things are very tight for de-soldering - after all, this is
a small handheld transceiver, and even a Hakko 808 with the standard tip
will not reach them all, you need the long slender tip. Instead of worrying
about the de-soldering, just plan to destroy the components when removing
them - remove the legs one at a time (all components to be removed have only
2 legs) and clean out the hole with careflully positioned solder wick or
just push a stainless steel needle into the hole while heating it. Work
very carefully and be certain you know exactly where all parts of the
soldering iron are positioned at all times - it is easy to melt a relay or
other components while working in those tight quarters.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Okay, so I got a KX1, KXB3080 & KXAT1 for Christmas from my XYL
> (first time she has ever bought me anything for the hobby,
> YEAH!). A couple of years ago I built my K2 with all
> accessories and haven't really had any issues. I had
> preinstalled some of the components in the K2 to make things
> easier when it came time to install the other modules later, and
> I'm glad I did. So far we have two differences of opinion on the
> subject with the KX1. Is there any particular reason others see
> for doing it one way or the other? Obviously, following the
> directions explicitly is a sure fire recipe toward success,
> although problems can still occur. I just don't really see the
> need to be so explicit if there are some smart things that can be
> done to make future planned (short term) upgrades easier. I
> think that as long as the modifications in the assembly do not
> result in different results when attempting to do alignment or
> testing then it should not matter.
>
> Mark, NK8Q
>

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