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Excess current (<3A) being drawn on 40m tuneup. L1 adjustment having little effect. All other bands tuned up just fine. This was traced to L25/L26 having been supplied with 16 turns each, rather than the specified 14 and 12, respectively. Everything tuned perfectly after correcting the number of turns. Moral - double-check others' work as well as your own! Don has very kindly told me that the earlier version of the K2 called for 16 turns on L25 & L26, so the commercially-made toroids were for an earlier K2 design; thanks Don. It wasn't my intention to criticise but to emphasise the benefits of careful checking - even commercial stuff! Indeed, Elecraft support this approach by encouraging builders to complete a thorough inventory before reaching for the soldering iron. It's time well invested. 73 DaveL G3TJP _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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You wrote that the K2 had started life as a much earlier version for which
the original owner obtained upgrades and a new serial number. It's clear he didn't get all the 'upgrades' since the toroids changed during that time too, and you received the old toroid set. If you find any other strange behavior, you might double check to see if all the various changes were actually incorporated. It's always a challenge to take over a partially completed project. There's a lot of truth to the signs in the old TV repair shops of yesteryear: "Repairs! Labor $15/hour. If you've already fixed it, $50/hour." I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. This is an excellent reason not to do that. It helps to know the real vintage of the original unit just in case something like that shows up again. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- Quote Excess current (<3A) being drawn on 40m tune-up. L1 adjustment having little effect. All other bands tuned up just fine. This was traced to L25/L26 having been supplied with 16 turns each, rather than the specified 14 and 12, respectively. Everything tuned perfectly after correcting the number of turns. Moral - double-check others' work as well as your own! Don has very kindly told me that the earlier version of the K2 called for 16 turns on L25 & L26, so the commercially-made toroids were for an earlier K2 design; thanks Don. It wasn't my intention to criticise but to emphasise the benefits of careful checking - even commercial stuff! Indeed, Elecraft support this approach by encouraging builders to complete a thorough inventory before reaching for the soldering iron. It's time well invested. 73 DaveL G3TJP _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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How do you disable the Auto Tuner in the K2?? I think I have somehow
managed to blow the diodes in it again. 2nd time in 3 months, and this time the antenna is only connected when I'm on the radio. First time I left the antenna connected most of the time. Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Jerry,
Sorry to hear about your twice blown diodes. To disable the wattmeter on the tuner, you must physically remove the tuner. Normally, the tuner inductances and capacitors are bypassed in ATU CAL (and a few other settings - consult the manual), but the wattmeter is still in the circuit and should function to provide the K2 power leveling circuits with a measurement of the actual output power. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > How do you disable the Auto Tuner in the K2?? I think I have somehow > managed to blow the diodes in it again. 2nd time in 3 months, and > this time > the antenna is only connected when I'm on the radio. First time I > left the > antenna connected most of the time. > > Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. > I know of at least one who did. Me. When I bought the basic K2 and a couple of option boards, it had a 25xx serial number. But I didn't get to build it right away because my job as a technical trainer for Sybase kept me on the road six days a week. When I did get time to build the kit, Elecraft was introducing the first major improvement to the K2, so I bought the Rev A-to-B upgrade package, which had the 3302 serial number tag in the kit. I use that number because it accurately reflects what is really in the transceiver. There may be other K2 owners who had a similar circumstance. If so, I'm curious to know which serial number choices they made and how many "holes" there might be in the serial number sequence. Cheers, Gus Hansen, KB0YH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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FB. I hadn't known about that. The Rev B boards in the A-to-B upgrade kit
pretty well require it be built to the "post S/N 3000" design. However, in the case of the fellow who had the trouble, the toroids had been purchased for the pre-S/N 3000 design. Long live Mr. Murphy: "If anything can go wrong it will..." Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > I've never heard of anyone getting a "new" serial number. > I know of at least one who did. Me. When I bought the basic K2 and a couple of option boards, it had a 25xx serial number. But I didn't get to build it right away because my job as a technical trainer for Sybase kept me on the road six days a week. When I did get time to build the kit, Elecraft was introducing the first major improvement to the K2, so I bought the Rev A-to-B upgrade package, which had the 3302 serial number tag in the kit. I use that number because it accurately reflects what is really in the transceiver. There may be other K2 owners who had a similar circumstance. If so, I'm curious to know which serial number choices they made and how many "holes" there might be in the serial number sequence. Cheers, Gus Hansen, KB0YH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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