This was done frequently on the theory that things could not occupy the same
space at the same time! (silicone grease or water) 73, Sandy W5TVW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Baugh" <[hidden email]> To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 8:32 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] N fittings | I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. | Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure | silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against | moisture and corrosion? | | ===== | 73, | Mark Baugh | W5EZY | Grenada MS | | | | __________________________________ | Do you Yahoo!? | Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! | http://my.yahoo.com | | | _______________________________________________ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: [hidden email] | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Tom Arntzen
Abt water-proofing
I use only one method: 3M - Self-vulcanizing rubber tape (we used it a lot in Telecom). If You are concerned abt UV cover it with some good electrical tape (I never did). S55M-Adi ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Arntzen" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 6:54 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings > I would stay away of any type of silicone because some silicones if applied > directly on the coax will harden the > outer insulation and cause cracks if they are bent. > Also silicone does not have more than 5 years of ageing before it should be > removed and redone. > The cushcraft boots will eventally go into a chewing gum like state after a > couple of years. > I would recommend a good electrical tape with selfvulcing tape over that > again. > > Tom LA1PHA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Nielsen" <[hidden email]> > To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:17 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings > > > > On Tue, Feb 15, 2005 at 06:32:04AM -0800, Mark Baugh wrote: > >> I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. > >> Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure > >> silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against > >> moisture and corrosion? > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Vic K2VCO
Adding to Vic's previous comments... from my own experiences...
At 10:54 AM 2/15/05, Vic Rosenthal wrote: >I've tried different methods of waterproofing outdoor coax connectors for >years, and here is my experience, for what it's worth: > >3) Coax Seal -- Does a good job and is easy to use. I have had >connections sealed for years which have stayed dry. A little hard to >clean up when you take the connection apart. I've found that Coax-Seal works best (for me), if I use it OVER an initial wrap of good quality plastic tape (Scotch #33 or #88), and then OVER-WRAP it with another wrap of good quality plastic tape. UV will kill coax-seal if it's not protected from UV, and coax-seal is simply MISERABLE to remove from just about ANY coax connector if you install it directly onto the connector (without an inner wrapping). For the past 5 years, I've switched to self-vulcanizing (silicone) tape... see below. >6) Self-vulcanizing rubber tape -- I've never been able to apply it >properly, but looks like it would work well (although I don't know how it >would respond to UV). Tends to want to stick to itself, etc. Everything >is harder when you are on a roof or tower. The self-vulcanizing tape I use was purchased at Dayton over 3-4 years, from an amateur radio club in Minnesota... it is a gray silicone tape and VERY flexible and stretchy (almost a 2:1 stretch factor). I apply this tape directly to the coax connection, overlapping it about 50%. I then follow with a final overwrap of 3M #33 or #88 tape. It has, so far, kept every(!) drop of moisture from the connectors it's protected. There was no name on the rolls of tape, but I'm told that they were donated to the radio club by a 'very large' tape manufacturing company which has three similar letters in its name, and this is also located in MN. Hmmm... apparently the tape failed one or more of their QC tests, but was still good enough for most uses, just not those for which the company was willing to have its name shown on the product. Self-vulcanizing rubber tapes I've seen should work just as well. If they appear to want to really stick TO the coax connector (such as Coax-seal does), you might want to first apply a protective "don't stick to me" wrap of plastic tape (even the cheap stuff will work here), and then apply the self-vulcanizing rubber tape, and finally a UV protective layer of good quality plastic tape. Finally, the question of how to 'terminate' a taped wrap... some just pull it tight and then yank on the tape until it breaks, wrapping the loose end around the already-taped connection. I've found, from experience, AND from numerous suggestions from those who have done a LOT more if that I, that when terminating a wrapped connection, it is best to pullout a loose end of maybe 3"-4", CUT it off, and allow it to hang free for a short period of time, to allow any previous stretch to be recovered by the loose end. Once it has returned to its UNstretched length, wrap it snuggly around the taped joint, using the larger diameter of the taped joint if possible and WITHOUT much pulling on tape as you wrap it. This allows the tape to seal against itself well, but having not been stretched, it won't want to unstretch later on when the sun comes out and heats up the taped joint, softening the adhesive. 73, Tom N0SS _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by S55M
Best thing I ever found was Scotch #23 tape (I think no longer being made!) Also
very similar #130C works the same. It's a silicone rubber tape that streeeeetches and then self-vulcanizes. Very good stuff, not hard to apply and waterproof. Used to use it in a corrosive marine (seagoing) environment with very good results. Easy to remove with a very sharp knife blade. The sun doesn't seem to bother it. For wrapping very irregular objects, fill in voids with Scotchfil putty. 73, Sandy W5TVW ----- Original Message ----- From: "S55M" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 1:20 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings | Abt water-proofing | | I use only one method: | | 3M - Self-vulcanizing rubber tape (we used it a lot in Telecom). | If You are concerned abt UV cover it with some good electrical tape (I never | did). | | | S55M-Adi | | | | ----- Original Message ----- | From: "Tom Arntzen" <[hidden email]> | To: <[hidden email]> | Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 6:54 PM | Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings | | | > I would stay away of any type of silicone because some silicones if | applied | > directly on the coax will harden the | > outer insulation and cause cracks if they are bent. | > Also silicone does not have more than 5 years of ageing before it should | be | > removed and redone. | > The cushcraft boots will eventally go into a chewing gum like state after | a | > couple of years. | > I would recommend a good electrical tape with selfvulcing tape over that | > again. | > | > Tom LA1PHA | > | > ----- Original Message ----- | > From: "Bob Nielsen" <[hidden email]> | > To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]> | > Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:17 PM | > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings | > | > | > > On Tue, Feb 15, 2005 at 06:32:04AM -0800, Mark Baugh wrote: | > >> I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. | > >> Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure | > >> silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against | > >> moisture and corrosion? | > | > | > _______________________________________________ | > Elecraft mailing list | > Post to: [hidden email] | > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | > | > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | _______________________________________________ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: [hidden email] | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Tom Hammond-3
Tom is very correct. In 3M presentations on their specialty tape products,
they emphasized NOT yanking off the end of any tape; but to unroll as Tom says, and let it "relax" then CUT the tape from the roll. That way, you will not have loose ends hanging off the installation after a few weeks. This is true of any tape with stretch. 3M has a broad line of self amalgamating tapes. They are used extensively in the electric utility trade; so met a local lineman, or check with electrical wholesale houses in your vicinity. If ever you can get a 3M rep. to give a local club a presentation, they are fond of bringing samples to give out. 73, Stuart K5KVH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy-2
My understanding of the place to place silicon grease is NOT upon the
outside of the connector, but rather in the interface between male and female connectors. The idea is to exclude moisture pooling on the insulator between the center pin and the outer shell conductor. However, if you over wrap a coax connector with a good quality electrical vinyl tape, and cut the end, rather than stretching it to break; you can then overwrap with coax seal, Dux Seal, or self amalgamating tape lapped 50 percent, and have a long lasting but recoverable seal. N connectors by their very construction do not typically need the addition of silicone grease. They have adequate fine threads and tight fitting interfaces between plug and receptacle. I prefer NOT to seal with silicone grease to enable inspection of the connectors every year. -Stuart K5KVH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Vic K2VCO
On Feb 15, 2005, at 11:54 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote: > Just a word about what happens when you DON'T waterproof your > connectors: water will corrode the joints in the connector, but > worse, it will move into the coax braid by capillary action. The K7LXC tip -- regardless of which weatherproofing method you use -- if you are using tape of any kind, wind your last layer of tape in the upward direction, overlapping each turn. This will cause any water to naturally shed away from the inner (lower) layers, much the same way as roofing shingles. If you wind in the other direction, the water will tend to move into the connection. Not good. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: [hidden email] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Steve Jackson-5
In a message dated 15/02/05 21:20:57 GMT Standard Time, [hidden email] writes: My understanding of the place to place silicon grease is NOT upon the outside of the connector, but rather in the interface between male and female connectors. The idea is to exclude moisture pooling on the insulator between the center pin and the outer shell conductor. ---------------------------------------------- Silicon grease would only be placed on the inside of the connector, but enevitably some can be squeezed out, making it's way to the outside and in the process is transferred to your hands. Once that happens there is no way in the world that most tape adhesives or self amalgamating/self vulcanising tape would adhere to the connector or even itself for that matter. It only takes an exceeding small amount and seems impossible to remove by normal cleaning. This would be why Don, W3FPR was wisely advising caution on the amount of silicon grease used. With self amalgamating tape one has to be careful as some types are said to be attacked by UV, though did use one brand of it in waterproofing CATV connectors in the UK for a number of years without any problems. Applied the self amalgamating tape directly over the connector, then applied a layer of heavy duty plastic tape over the top for mechanical strength and protection. What one uses depends where you live and what the exposure to UV levels are. What could apply in latitudes further away from the equator would not be applicable in hotter climates. I lived for many years in the Middle East and most types of self amalgamating tape would probably not be usable there due to extremely high levels of UV. Normal plastic tape had a rather short life and such things one would use normally in cooler climates such as polypropylene rope and plastic cable ties failed very quickly. The rope was turned to dust in the space of little more than a year and plastic cable ties went brittle and snapped. Never managed to source carbon loaded cable ties, though nylon T&B Tywraps did last a few more years longer. The only sealant I have seen that seems to stand most situations is the fabric/heavy grease type of tape. This is known commonly as Denso tape in the UK and was pretty well standard on professional telecom installations for external connector sealing. Have seen a similar type used in the Middle East for the same type of installation, so presume it must be resistant to the effects of UV. This tape or a very similar type is also used on small bore natural gas lines for joint sealing and protection, so this could be another source of supply. Rather messy to use, though does give extremely good protection to external connectors over many years. Bob, G3VVT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by G3VVT
> Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure > silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against > moisture and corrosion? I have been using it for many years with no problems. The longest undisturbed SO235/PL259 joint was 11 years at the top of a 60' tower and when opened it was as clean and bright as when it was put up. I usually pack the hole in the SO235 and when the plug is inserted it pushes/spreads the grease round the rest of the socket interior. 72, Peter Linsley, G3PDL [hidden email] [hidden email] [hidden email] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/05 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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