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Hello,
The saga of my K2 in the upstairs office and the K3 downstairs in the shop continues. Solution: 1. Run coax from the K2 into the attic; run some red/blk zip cord up too. 2. Chop the K3 coax going to the antenna and run the K3 end into the attic. 3. Run the remaining end of the coax from the antenna into the attic. 4. PL-259s to the 3 wires in the attic. 5. Connect K2, K3, ant to coax relay. 6. Zip cord to relay (12 vdc or 110 ac); other end gets power when I turn on the K2 supply. I had a Dow-Key coax relay (just what I want) on my Viking II. Both long gone. Anyone have one or something that'll do the trick? Any extra PL-259's with sleeve for smaller coax? Many thanks! Alan Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com Williamsport, PA 17701 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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The Top Ten Devices A/B switch will work very well for this
application. It even has a lockout so you cannot "steal" the antenna from the currently selected port. You will need a control signal that pulls to ground to activate the A and B selection. A pair of simple open collector transistors controlled by the +12V output on their respective radios will do the trick. Run a +12V supply and the two control lines to the switch. The power supply commons ("grounds") of the two radios must be tied together somewhere to make this scheme work, however. I use one of the A/B switches to switch the output of the B side of my Array Solutions SixPak between the Sub receiver on my K3 in single radio mode and the second radio in two radio mode. It works great, and the switch has very good isolation between the two ports. 73... Randy, W8FN >I had a Dow-Key coax relay (just what I want) on my Viking II. Both long >gone. > >Anyone have one or something that'll do the trick? Any extra PL-259's >with sleeve for smaller coax? ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
Alan,
I would suggest something a bit more complex than a simple SPDT relay to switch between the K2 and K3. Considering that the antenna should be disconnected when not in use, I would devise a priority scheme - it would take 3 relays. Two would switch RF between the antenna and a dummy load. The third would switch the DC feed to the two RF relays depending on which transceiver has priority (the K2 or the K3) and the power on state of the K2 or the K3. Yes, that would take 2 dummy loads, but provides a safe load if the antenna is not selected for either the K2 or the K3. The priority is your choice - if you want the K3 to be the priority transceiver, its power on state will prevent the K2 antenna relay from activating (or vice-versa). Tha downside is that if you forget to turn off the K3, you will have to make a trip to the K3 to turn it off before you can use the K2. The up-side is that you will always have a safe load to boht the K2 and the K3 and if you power off the rig when not in use, you will have some protection from lightning surges on both rigs. Instead of "disconnect the antenna when not in use", you will have implemented a "power off when not in use" mechanism that will automatically disconnect the antenna and connect the rig to a dummy load. I am working on a similar situation, but I am using mechanical rotary switches in the hamshack. Of the 3 HF antenna feeds and 1 6 meter feed coming into the shack, any unused antenna feeds will be routed to the basement workshop. In the hamshack, the K3 has the priority choice of antenna feeds, the Yasesu FT-847 has the second choice and the remaining coax feed is sent to the workbench. The K3 and FT-847 are protected by dummy loads when powered off, but the workbench feed is manual - i.e. at the workbench I must physically disconnect the antenna from any rig on the bench when not in use. Mine is more complex because the 6 meter must connect to the HF antenna jack on the K3 while the 6 meter feed on the FT-847 is separate from the HF input. You will have to come up with your own system based on your particular desires and priorities. A bit of thought and "midnight sketches" may be in order. 73, Don W3FPR Alan D. Wilcox wrote: > Hello, > > The saga of my K2 in the upstairs office and the K3 downstairs in the > shop continues. > > Solution: > 1. Run coax from the K2 into the attic; run some red/blk zip cord up too. > 2. Chop the K3 coax going to the antenna and run the K3 end into the attic. > 3. Run the remaining end of the coax from the antenna into the attic. > 4. PL-259s to the 3 wires in the attic. > 5. Connect K2, K3, ant to coax relay. > 6. Zip cord to relay (12 vdc or 110 ac); other end gets power when I > turn on the K2 supply. > > I had a Dow-Key coax relay (just what I want) on my Viking II. Both long > gone. > > Anyone have one or something that'll do the trick? Any extra PL-259's > with sleeve for smaller coax? > > Many thanks! > Alan > > Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) > 570-321-1516 > http://WilcoxEngineering.com > Williamsport, PA 17701 > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
Hello Alan,
I had used a home built vacuum relay on 6m to switch between antennas, but the isolation was not good - possibly due to a problem with dirty contact in the old relay or something. Anyway, I built a very nice SPDT coaxial switch that will handle plenty of power up through 6m with low SWR, and you could easily do the same thing with a DPDT coaxial switch done the same way. In fact, mine was based on a design by WA4NFP for a durable, low loss DPDT switch to switch an amp in and out of the circuit. You can put any type of connectors you want on it: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/relay.htm GL and I hope you find this information helpful. VY 73, Lance On 7/30/2010 1:09 AM, Alan D. Wilcox wrote: > Hello, > > The saga of my K2 in the upstairs office and the K3 downstairs in the > shop continues. > > Solution: > 1. Run coax from the K2 into the attic; run some red/blk zip cord up too. > 2. Chop the K3 coax going to the antenna and run the K3 end into the attic. > 3. Run the remaining end of the coax from the antenna into the attic. > 4. PL-259s to the 3 wires in the attic. > 5. Connect K2, K3, ant to coax relay. > 6. Zip cord to relay (12 vdc or 110 ac); other end gets power when I > turn on the K2 supply. > > I had a Dow-Key coax relay (just what I want) on my Viking II. Both long > gone. > > Anyone have one or something that'll do the trick? Any extra PL-259's > with sleeve for smaller coax? > > Many thanks! > Alan > > Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) > 570-321-1516 > http://WilcoxEngineering.com > Williamsport, PA 17701 > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > -- Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR) P.O. Box 73 Frenchtown, MT 59834 USA QTH: DN27UB TEL: (406) 626-5728 URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj 2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815 Interested in 6m EME? Ask me about subscribing to the MAGIC BAND EME email reflector! ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Vacuum relays can be quite good, as can a proper traditional relay, but all
are only as good as the designer's ability to understand ground loops. All isolation shortfalls come from either the wrong style relay, or a bad layout with ground loops or crosstalk between RF conductors. Many of the problems are because people insist on grounded unused ports, and the ground point has RF currents flowing through a common ground lead with a signal path. Worse yet, what applies to RF isolation generally applies to lightning. Most trouble occurs because people forget the shield carries exactly the same current as the center conductor, and even one inch of path can drop enough voltage to cause a coupling problem. If we look at the highest isolation switches on the market, the RCS-8V and the DXE switches, neither depend on RF shield currents flowing through the circuit boards. Neither use a groundplane transmission line on the boards. Both have connectors on a single flat plate with a design for radically flowing shield currents from the center common point. The sheet metal the connectors mount to is the signal groundplane. Most "trouble" occurs when people try to run RF grounds up through a groundplane on a circuit board or through point to point wiring. This is true in radio, audio lines, and antenna switches. It isn't good for lighting, ground loops, or RFI unless grounds go to a good common wall with very low impedance, solid connections, and well-planned current flow. 73 Tom ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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> Both have connectors on a single flat plate with a design for radically > flowing shield currents from the center common point. That should, of course, have been "radially flowing currents" and not "radically flowing currents". Darn auto-correct. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
All,
Thanks so much for all the responses! Happily, the simple solution will work for me, because neither the K2 nor the K3 is ever hooked to the antenna unless it's going to be used. Because I'm the only op, only one can be used at one time. That gets me to a simple coax relay solution. Don't want to cut holes in box, mount connectors, etc; just taking something to the hot attic will be plenty for me. One of my clients, for whom I built a KPA100 and tuned his K2 last, saw my posting. He has a like-new Dow-Key that he's sending (thanks Chuck), and that'll solve the major problem. All Electronics had the zip cord and 259's with RG-8x sleeves, so I'll be all set to start soon. Thanks again, Alan Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com Williamsport, PA 17701 Alan D. Wilcox wrote: > Hello, > > The saga of my K2 in the upstairs office and the K3 downstairs in the > shop continues. > > Solution: > 1. Run coax from the K2 into the attic; run some red/blk zip cord up too. > 2. Chop the K3 coax going to the antenna and run the K3 end into the attic. > 3. Run the remaining end of the coax from the antenna into the attic. > 4. PL-259s to the 3 wires in the attic. > 5. Connect K2, K3, ant to coax relay. > 6. Zip cord to relay (12 vdc or 110 ac); other end gets power when I > turn on the K2 supply. > > I had a Dow-Key coax relay (just what I want) on my Viking II. Both long > gone. > > Anyone have one or something that'll do the trick? Any extra PL-259's > with sleeve for smaller coax? > > Many thanks! > Alan > > Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) > 570-321-1516 > http://WilcoxEngineering.com > Williamsport, PA 17701 Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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