OT: Installing PL-259's
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I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... Here's suggestions ... Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a small assist with slip-joint pliers. There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and solder them correctly. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Ken G Kopp wrote:
> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body > of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be > the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making > soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. This is an _excellent_ suggestion! Larger holes will make everything easier -- more solder iron contact with the braid and easier solder flow. The tiny stock holes. seriously impede solder flowing onto the braid. Thanks for the great idea! -- 73, Mike N4CF Louisa County, VA USA Elecraft KX3 #3118, 10W Carolina Windom up 45' http://n4cf.mdodd.com ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Ken G Kopp
______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Ken G Kopp
What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys using 200-300W irons!
Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body with holes in it? My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? 73, Mike ________________________________ From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... Here's suggestions ... Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a small assist with slip-joint pliers. There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and solder them correctly. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is more important
than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys using 200-300W irons! > Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body with holes in it? > My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years > ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. > He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? > 73, Mike > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> > To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's > > > I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as > part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... > > Here's suggestions ... > > Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. > > Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and > cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" > portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when > the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's > a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. > > Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body > of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be > the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making > soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. > > This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector > on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) > > The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector > onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers > for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- > later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" > to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch > of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed > front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a > small assist with slip-joint pliers. > > There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and > solder them correctly. > > 73! > > Ken Kopp - K0PP > [hidden email] -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you got your ticket" grumps). What is your opinion of this method: http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote: > I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is > more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. > > > On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > >> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys >> using 200-300W irons! >> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of >> body with holes in it? >> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We >> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years >> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared >> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. >> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? >> 73, Mike >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> >> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> >> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM >> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's >> >> >> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as >> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... >> >> Here's suggestions ... >> >> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. >> >> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and >> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" >> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when >> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's >> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. >> >> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body >> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be >> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making >> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. >> >> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector >> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) >> >> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector >> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers >> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- >> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" >> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny >> touch >> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed >> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a >> small assist with slip-joint pliers. >> >> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and >> solder them correctly. >> >> 73! >> >> Ken Kopp - K0PP >> [hidden email] >> > > -- > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- CW: NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155 | SOC #1038 | FPQRP #3186 Digital: FHC #4224 | 30MDG #6370 | DMC #5698 Gear: K3 #7164 | KX3 #1787 http://vadept.com ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would
tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this. On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote: > Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables > and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because > they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you > got your ticket" grumps). > > What is your opinion of this method: > > http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ > > > > On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote: > >> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is >> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. >> >> >> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [hidden email] wrote: >> >>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys >>> using 200-300W irons! >>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of >>> body with holes in it? >>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We >>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years >>> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared >>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. >>> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? >>> 73, Mike >>> >>> >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> >>> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> >>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM >>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's >>> >>> >>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as >>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... >>> >>> Here's suggestions ... >>> >>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. >>> >>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and >>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" >>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when >>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's >>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. >>> >>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body >>> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be >>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making >>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. >>> >>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector >>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) >>> >>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector >>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers >>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- >>> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" >>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny >>> touch >>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed >>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a >>> small assist with slip-joint pliers. >>> >>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and >>> solder them correctly. >>> >>> 73! >>> >>> Ken Kopp - K0PP >>> [hidden email] >>> >> >> -- >> Vic, K2VCO >> Fresno CA >> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > > > -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Mike Dodd
> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be > the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making > soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. > Even better than the reamer is a 1/8in round file, applied sideways across the top of the hole to create a thin feather-edge of bare brass which is much easier to solder. If you then use a hot air gun to pre-heat the connector body to about 100degC, even a 40W Weller iron will give a good solder joint. Best of all is to avoid that design of connector completely, and change to modern designs that don't require heavy soldering. Even if you're not prepared to invest in crimp tools, you can still buy the pressure-sleeve type which has vastly improved cable retention. 73 from Ian GM3SEK ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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-- A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in. -Greek proverb On 12 Nov 2013, at 08:17, Ian White wrote: I agree with Ian, I was about to post that I believe the best option (if you don't use crimped fittings) is a pressure gland type - makes it waterproof and avoids the danger of melting the dielectric. Plus you can generally reuse the connector if the cable gets damaged etc. In fact, may be better than crimp, since I'm not convinced crimp fittings are waterproof. Either way, always tape an external connection. 73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108) > Best of all is to avoid that design of connector completely, and change > to modern designs that don't require heavy soldering. Even if you're > not prepared to invest in crimp tools, you can still buy the > pressure-sleeve type which has vastly improved cable retention. > 73 from Ian GM3SEK ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Vic Rosenthal
The advantage of k3lr's method is that the quality of the soldering of the braid is easy to
inspect. I used the tinned braid tubing cutter method many times but still managed to put a connector on that I filled the holes with solder and not connecting to the braid. (It still worked for a couple of years like that BTW). It looked good. Mark. N2QT > On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:06 AM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this. > > >> On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote: >> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables >> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because >> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you >> got your ticket" grumps). >> >> What is your opinion of this method: >> >> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote: >>> >>> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is >>> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. >>> >>> >>>> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [hidden email] wrote: >>>> >>>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys >>>> using 200-300W irons! >>>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of >>>> body with holes in it? >>>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We >>>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years >>>> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared >>>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. >>>> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? >>>> 73, Mike >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ________________________________ >>>> From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> >>>> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> >>>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM >>>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's >>>> >>>> >>>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as >>>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... >>>> >>>> Here's suggestions ... >>>> >>>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. >>>> >>>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and >>>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" >>>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when >>>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's >>>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. >>>> >>>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body >>>> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be >>>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making >>>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. >>>> >>>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector >>>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) >>>> >>>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector >>>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers >>>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- >>>> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" >>>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny >>>> touch >>>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed >>>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a >>>> small assist with slip-joint pliers. >>>> >>>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and >>>> solder them correctly. >>>> >>>> 73! >>>> >>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP >>>> [hidden email] >>> >>> -- >>> Vic, K2VCO >>> Fresno CA >>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ >>> >>> ______________________________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > -- > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I am really glad to see this appear, too.
I have always wondered what is really going on inside the connector, and that reaming out of the solder holes will surely help. What I am REALLY glad about is that the older style of PL-259 with a little cover and a set-screw are gone. Long gone. On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Mark <[hidden email]> wrote: > The advantage of k3lr's method is that the quality of the soldering of the > braid is easy to > inspect. I used the tinned braid tubing cutter method many times but > still managed to put > a connector on that I filled the holes with solder and not connecting to > the braid. (It still > worked for a couple of years like that BTW). It looked good. > > Mark. N2QT > > > On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:06 AM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > > Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it > this way. I would tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then > solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem > with one done like this. > > > > > >> On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote: > >> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables > >> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask > because > >> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before > you > >> got your ticket" grumps). > >> > >> What is your opinion of this method: > >> > >> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> > wrote: > >>> > >>> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip > is > >>> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > >>>> > >>>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with > guys > >>>> using 200-300W irons! > >>>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot > of > >>>> body with holes in it? > >>>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. > We > >>>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years > >>>> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared > >>>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. > >>>> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower > resistance? > >>>> 73, Mike > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> ________________________________ > >>>> From: Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> > >>>> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> > >>>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM > >>>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as > >>>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... > >>>> > >>>> Here's suggestions ... > >>>> > >>>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. > >>>> > >>>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and > >>>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" > >>>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when > >>>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's > >>>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. > >>>> > >>>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body > >>>> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be > >>>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making > >>>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. > >>>> > >>>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector > >>>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) > >>>> > >>>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector > >>>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers > >>>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- > >>>> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are > "square" > >>>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny > >>>> touch > >>>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the > ribbed > >>>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a > >>>> small assist with slip-joint pliers. > >>>> > >>>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and > >>>> solder them correctly. > >>>> > >>>> 73! > >>>> > >>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP > >>>> [hidden email] > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Vic, K2VCO > >>> Fresno CA > >>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > >>> > >>> ______________________________________________________________ > >>> Elecraft mailing list > >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] > >>> > >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > -- > > Vic, K2VCO > > Fresno CA > > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > ______________________________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- 73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW and thinking about operating CW: "Do today what others won't, so you can do tomorrow what others can't." ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Frank Precissi
As a method of achieving a 360 degree soldered braid it does that, but what
I don't like is that it creates a mechanical weakness at the joint. In the conventional method, the cable exits the connector while still flexible and allows flexing, but in this method the cable is stiff and flexing should not be allowed. Additional bracing should be used if any flexing is likely. Personally, I prefer the 'pressure sleeve' PL259s as is used in the N connector in which no soldering of the braid is necessary so, the reliability, even under arduous use should be higher. SA tape should be applied after assembly as usual. Professional suppliers of RF cable assemblies that I have used (with N type, TNC, SMA - not PL259) have never failed in military use. A moderately priced supplier I have used is Gigatronix who use an on-line ordering system that makes the specifying and pricing very simple, quick and transparent. I have no pecuniary interest, except the notion of 'buy cheap, buy twice.' David G3UNA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Precissi" <[hidden email]> To: "Elecraft Group" <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:23 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's > Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables > and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because > they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before > you > got your ticket" grumps). > > What is your opinion of this method: > > http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Frank Precissi
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 22:23:37 -0800, Frank Precissi wrote:
> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables > and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because > they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you > got your ticket" grumps). > > What is your opinion of this method: > > http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ I wouldn't touch that method with a (your) ten foot pole. You have a very weak point at the point of entry into the PL. A few flexes of the coax, and your shield will be broken and non-existent. Solder through the holes and allow the black sheath to reinforcingly hold the coax in the connector. It should only be trimmed back far enough to clear the holes. I've never been able to use the tinned shield method. Too many stray wires, and/or too large to freely enter the center of the connector without catching. I also don't like the idea of enlarging the holes in the PL, although that seems the least undesirable of the things people have mentioned. If you do, at least make sure there are no burrs on the inside to catch the braid as you thread the coax into the hole. While on the subject, someone mentioned not being able to get the tip of the gun (I use a gun) into the channel where the holes are. Why not? My 300+ watt tip isn't that large. It should fit fine. You do NOT put the tip into the holes themselves. You heat the outer until the folder will freely flow between outer, shield, and (if using one) UG reducer. Make sure solder is FLOWING, not just sitting there stuck on some piece of flux or something. It should flow from one hole to the next IN the shield. Someone mentioned the word waterproof. PLs are NOT waterproof. The best you can do is to make sure moisture can't get into your connection on either side of your connector. Fully seal several inches either side, multiple layers. I haven't used it in years, but I used to use Scotch Kote. A layer of 33 or 88 tape, Scotch Kote, and another layer of tape, each one extending beyond the last layer does a pretty good job and you'll pull brand new connections out of it 10-20 years later. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Another tip regarding soldering connectors or anything else for that matter.
Use 63/37 mix solder AKA Eutectic. It has a one degree plastic point and helps prevent cold solder joints. Said before you must use enough heat on any joint but this solder mix will help. Another Motorola initiative I have used Eutectic for 25 years or so now. 73 K0AZ Mike Sanders EM37cd SW Missouri www.k0az.com -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of AG0N-3055 Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 9:51 AM To: elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 22:23:37 -0800, Frank Precissi wrote: > Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made > cables and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to > ask because they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have > learned this before you got your ticket" grumps). > > What is your opinion of this method: > > http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ I wouldn't touch that method with a (your) ten foot pole. You have a very weak point at the point of entry into the PL. A few flexes of the coax, and your shield will be broken and non-existent. Solder through the holes and allow the black sheath to reinforcingly hold the coax in the connector. It should only be trimmed back far enough to clear the holes. I've never been able to use the tinned shield method. Too many stray wires, and/or too large to freely enter the center of the connector without catching. I also don't like the idea of enlarging the holes in the PL, although that seems the least undesirable of the things people have mentioned. If you do, at least make sure there are no burrs on the inside to catch the braid as you thread the coax into the hole. While on the subject, someone mentioned not being able to get the tip of the gun (I use a gun) into the channel where the holes are. Why not? My 300+ watt tip isn't that large. It should fit fine. You do NOT put the tip into the holes themselves. You heat the outer until the folder will freely flow between outer, shield, and (if using one) UG reducer. Make sure solder is FLOWING, not just sitting there stuck on some piece of flux or something. It should flow from one hole to the next IN the shield. Someone mentioned the word waterproof. PLs are NOT waterproof. The best you can do is to make sure moisture can't get into your connection on either side of your connector. Fully seal several inches either side, multiple layers. I haven't used it in years, but I used to use Scotch Kote. A layer of 33 or 88 tape, Scotch Kote, and another layer of tape, each one extending beyond the last layer does a pretty good job and you'll pull brand new connections out of it 10-20 years later. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by mcduffie
The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then
tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a tubing cutter. On 11/12/2013 7:50 AM, AG0N-3055 wrote: > I've never been able to use the tinned shield method. Too many stray > wires, and/or too large to freely enter the center of the connector > without catching. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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And the next trick is to use a hefty iron, large enough to heat the entire PL259 (w-o the shell) hot enoughto accept solder, and make it flooow.. through one or maybe two holes at a time.. and quickly enough to not melt the center insulator. Rotate the PL259 and do it again.. big enough iron, allows enough speed,to finish it before the heat flows into the center. I had the large Weller gun with the tip opened to allow the current to flow through the PL259, that made it even faster.. on.. off.. rotate... on.. off.. done.That worked very well.. and not so much.. depending upon the center insulation being made.. of foam.. or solid. Speed.. is the essence, of the good.. sealed connector.. that will last years and years.
Have a great day, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy > The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then > tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin > without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a > tubing cutter. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Ken G Kopp
For the last 50+ years I have heard continuously of the challenges
encountered with the making off of PL259 connectors. Why on earth do we persist in using these poor connectors as there are good alternatives available for most types of coaxial cable. 73 Peter G3SMT ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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One of the main reasons I like PL259s is precisely because they ARE so
easy to install on a cable. I use a procedure similar to Don's: tin the braid, cut off a bit of braid and center insulator from the end, insert/screw into connector, solder the braid through the holes, solder the center conductor, cut off the excess wire from the center conductor. Done. It makes an extremely rugged and reliable connection. You could literally support your entire body weight from the cable without pulling it out of the connector. Alan N1AL On 11/12/2013 10:32 AM, Peter Torry wrote: > For the last 50+ years I have heard continuously of the challenges > encountered with the making off of PL259 connectors. Why on earth do we > persist in using these poor connectors as there are good alternatives > available for most types of coaxial cable. > > 73 > > Peter > G3SMT ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Vic Rosenthal
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:00:41 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote:
> The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then > tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin > without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a > tubing cutter. But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in many/most cases. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Not if it's removed carefully and tinned. I've done it hundreds of times.
On 11/12/2013 12:27 PM, AG0N-3055 wrote: > On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:00:41 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote: > >> The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then >> tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin >> without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a >> tubing cutter. > > But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to > larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in > many/most cases. > > Gary > -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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