Off Topic (solder pot)
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Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder
pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything much less and it won't tin properly. Thanks -- Rick _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I have a small solder pot, and have had a hard time tinning with it. I'm sure the problem lies with the user (me) and not with the pot!
I originally used solder from a roll (with flux) as Rick says, but it became so much of a mess that I purchased a rod of solder (I guess it weighs a pound or so) and as the solder in the pot gets low, I stick the end of the rod into the hot pot and melt enough off to fill the pot back up. Can someone let me know if this the correct type of solder to use? My problem seem to be getting the right temperature for tinning. If I don't set it hot enough it doesn't seem to melt the enamel from the toroid wire. On the other hand if I set it too high, the wire itself actually melts and I have to rewind the toroid. (My solder pot doesn't have a thermometer, so I can't tell you what temperature I am working with.) I'd be interested in hearing more from Rick and anyone else using a aolder pot. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: [hidden email] > Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder > pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the > solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and > debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much > flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on > the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be > removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, > this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything > much less and it won't tin properly. > > Thanks -- Rick > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Rick-94
When I last used a solderpot, my understanding is that you generally
*don't* have flux in the pot .. just solder. When tinning a wire, you dip it in paste or liquid flux and then into the pot. Solder manufacturers sell bar solder (with no flux) for use in solder pots. de w1rt/john On 2/13/06, [hidden email] <[hidden email]> wrote: > Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder > pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the > solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and > debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much > flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on > the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be > removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, > this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything > much less and it won't tin properly. > > Thanks -- Rick > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Rick-94
I run a Goot model 22C solder pot (small, about 1/2 lb capacity) - and do not use fluxed solder at all! I use plain bar solder (available from Mouser and others) cut up into pot-sized chunks, adding more when needed (infrequently). I use a liquid or paste flux with the item to be tinned. Such fluxes are similarly available fro Mouser and others. . The liquid "paints" on with a little brush, the paste I just stick the wire or terminal into, enough adheres to do the job. I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface of the solder bath as needed. I manufactured the scrapers by cutting strips of 0.010" stainless steel shim stock from a roll. Each scraper is about 1/2" wide and 6" long. The length allows you to scrape the dross before the heat transfers to your fingers. The solder won't stick to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled. I use the pot for tinning toroid leads, connector pins before installing them, stripped coaxial cables before installing them into connectors (mostly RG/8 into PL-259 fittings), large diameter wires before attempting to join them to switches and terminals, and other similar applications. I keep the temperature set to about 800 degrees F, which seems to work well. Don't leave small diameter wires in the solder too long, they will literally dissolve into the molten solder. I second is about all you need for bare wire, or if using heat-strippable insulation, I plunge the wire in until the insulation disappears in a puff of smoke, and remove the freshly tinned wire immediately thereafter. A little practice is all it takes, and you will be pleased with the results. Using the paste or liquid flux is essential for a quick and clean job. Most freshly stripped wire will tin without flux, but not as quickly or as well. Obviously, you won't need flux on heat-strippable insulated wire Similar solder pots are often found on the Internet. Try a Google search for "Solder Pot" and "GOOT" . I have seen them available on discount for as little as $100.00. The price is high for one use, but not bad at all if you use it for lots of jobs. Good luck! - Jim, KL7CC [hidden email] wrote: >Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder >pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the >solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and >debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much >flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on >the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be >removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, >this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything >much less and it won't tin properly. > >Thanks -- Rick > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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-------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Jim Wiley <[hidden email]> > > > > > I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface > of the solder bath as needed. I manufactured the scrapers by cutting > strips of 0.010" stainless steel shim stock from a roll. Each scraper > is about 1/2" wide and 6" long. The length allows you to scrape the > dross before the heat transfers to your fingers. The solder won't stick > to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your > fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled. > > Alternately, I've found that a nickel (a five cent coin, which is apparently not made of nickel) is also an adequate method of cleaning up the surface of the solder pot -- hold the nickel with a tweezer or pliers. The solder doesn't stick to the nickel either. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Wiley-2
Thanks for the info guys, I will have to try straight solder no/flux. That will probably eliminate the smoke when at temp. So am I to assume that I must strip the emamel first, then use paste and dip (again) to tin? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I think Elecraft supplies wire in which the enamel will melt in the solder
pot --- is that true? Tom WB2QDG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 9:22 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot > > Thanks for the info guys, I will have to try straight solder no/flux. That > will probably eliminate the smoke when at temp. So am I to assume that I > must strip the emamel first, then use paste and dip (again) to tin? > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Yes Tom, the Elecraft supplied wire is 'heat-strippable'. Whether that heat
is applied with a 'solder blob', a solder pot, or a BIC lighter flame makes little difference (except that the disposition of the bits of burned-off enamel are a bit different for each method) - the 'BIC' method requires an extra tinning step. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > I think Elecraft supplies wire in which the enamel will melt in > the solder > pot --- is that true? > Tom > WB2QDG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rick" <[hidden email]> > To: <[hidden email]> > Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 9:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot > > > > > > Thanks for the info guys, I will have to try straight solder > no/flux. That > > will probably eliminate the smoke when at temp. So am I to assume that I > > must strip the emamel first, then use paste and dip (again) to tin? > > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Tom McCulloch
Yes, a solder pot or even the tip of most soldering irons will easily
melt the enamel off. Brian - W6FVI Tom McCulloch wrote: > I think Elecraft supplies wire in which the enamel will melt in the > solder pot --- is that true? > Tom > WB2QDG > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" <[hidden email]> > To: <[hidden email]> > Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 9:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot > > >> >> Thanks for the info guys, I will have to try straight solder no/flux. >> That >> will probably eliminate the smoke when at temp. So am I to assume that I >> must strip the emamel first, then use paste and dip (again) to tin? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Simple. Made a bead of solder, or as I like to call it, slobber, on the
tip of the iron. Sit that on top of the wire up next to the toroid where you want to start stripping, right on top (heat does rise but putting it on top makes the bead sit on top of the wire and seems to heat up the enamel better), and wait a bit, and it will burn the insulation. You'll know because it stinks. Feed a bit more fresh solder to the iron as you move out toward the tip of the wire, and you'll leave a nice clean de-insulated, wire as you go. Good stinky fun! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Feb 15, 2006, at 6:29 PM, w6fvi wrote: > Yes, a solder pot or even the tip of most soldering irons will easily > melt the enamel off. > > Brian - W6FVI _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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While it's natural to start at the point where you want the stripping to
stop (near the core) that's often the hardest point to start unless you mechanically strip away a little enamel first. The issue is getting the wire hot! The enamel is a pretty decent insulator. The normal approach is to start at the cut end where the bare copper will also come in contact with the solder and so heat more quickly. Then the enamel burns more from the hot wire inside than from the blob of solder outside as you feed the wire into the blob up to the point where you want to stop removing the enamel. Either direction works, but getting the wire hot is a lot faster. The wire Elecraft uses also strips very easily when drawn over a slightly sharp edge. The trick is to avoid nicking it, so don't press on the soft copper with a sharp knife. I've removed enamel from some leads by simply pressing the lead down against the bench using a small screwdriver blade and pulling the lead out. Often one pass will remove the entire "tube" of enamel. In any case, be sure you remove the enamel from the entire circumference of the wire. Sandpaper works too. Then tin. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Alexandra Carter
Alexandra Carter wrote:
> Simple. Made a bead of solder, or as I like to call it, slobber, on the > tip of the iron. [...] and it will burn the insulation. You'll > know because it stinks. It bubbles. It also seems to act a lot like "anti-flux". It'll turn your nice clean shiny blob of solder into a dull, rough, grey, sticky gooey mess. Keep feeding in more clean solder and/or flux. -- "Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer; [hidden email] Time is what keeps everything from happening at once. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Yes it's really icky stuff! I kind of parallel it with the times I need to make a hole in some plastic and am too lazy to get out the drill, I just heat up the soldering iron and melt it, works great but it does make the tip icky. Alex. > It bubbles. It also seems to act a lot like "anti-flux". It'll turn > your > nice clean shiny blob of solder into a dull, rough, grey, sticky gooey > mess. Keep feeding in more clean solder and/or flux. > > -- > "Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Hi
If you happen to own a Hakko 808 desoldering gun then you can insert the toroid wire into the nozzle up to the core on the toroid. Then feed a little solder and pull the trigger. The enamel will be stripped off and the wire cleaned and tined all at the same time by the rush of air over the wire. This whole process takes about 10 seconds and gives perfectly stripped and tined leads. The only thing better is to buy them already wound, stripped and tined from the toroid guy Don Brown KD5NDB _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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Well, if I want to get really technical, I can always get a set of
HotTweezers, $400 or so new, $50-$75 on Ebay, similar price from Harold C Fue if I go to the swapmeet when he's there and he has one. Those things are great for stripping difficult wire, Ebay's the best bet for the average hobbyist to find one at a good price. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Feb 16, 2006, at 6:25 AM, Don Brown wrote: > Hi > > If you happen to own a Hakko 808 desoldering gun then you can insert > the > toroid wire into the nozzle up to the core on the toroid. Then feed a > little > solder and pull the trigger. The enamel will be stripped off and the > wire > cleaned and tined all at the same time by the rush of air over the > wire. > This whole process takes about 10 seconds and gives perfectly stripped > and > tined leads. The only thing better is to buy them already wound, > stripped > and tined from the toroid guy > > Don Brown > KD5NDB > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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If i had only known that Eccostrip and Stripvar were going to become
unavailable, I would have stocked up years ago (thanks, OHSA/EPA). The alternatives certainly do not beat just brushing a thick liquid on the end of the wire and wiping it and the enamel off a few minutes later. 73, Bob N7XY On Feb 16, 2006, at 12:32 PM, Alexandra Carter wrote: > Well, if I want to get really technical, I can always get a set of > HotTweezers, $400 or so new, $50-$75 on Ebay, similar price from > Harold C Fue if I go to the swapmeet when he's there and he has > one. Those things are great for stripping difficult wire, Ebay's > the best bet for the average hobbyist to find one at a good price. > 73 de Alex NS6Y. > > On Feb 16, 2006, at 6:25 AM, Don Brown wrote: > >> Hi >> >> If you happen to own a Hakko 808 desoldering gun then you can >> insert the >> toroid wire into the nozzle up to the core on the toroid. Then >> feed a little >> solder and pull the trigger. The enamel will be stripped off and >> the wire >> cleaned and tined all at the same time by the rush of air over the >> wire. >> This whole process takes about 10 seconds and gives perfectly >> stripped and >> tined leads. The only thing better is to buy them already wound, >> stripped >> and tined from the toroid guy >> >> Don Brown >> KD5NDB >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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If i had only known that Eccostrip and Stripvar were going to become
unavailable, I would have stocked up years ago (thanks, OHSA/EPA). The alternatives certainly do not beat just brushing a thick liquid on the end of the wire and wiping it and the enamel off a few minutes later. 73, Bob N7XY ---------------------------- It takes less time than that to strip this new stuff using either a blob or a sharp edge. Make it about 10 seconds per lead <G> My concern with the newer stuff is that the enamel comes off a bit too easily. When winding transformers it's important not to shed enamel where it could short the windings. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
On Thursday 16 February 2006 00:53, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The wire Elecraft uses also strips very easily when drawn over a slightly > sharp edge. Exactly. I use a medical scalpel. There are toxic vapours burning the enamel directly. K2 number 4962 is fully functional, and I wound the coils, scraped them with the scalpel, and tinned them myself with practically no vapours from the enamel. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: Stripping Enamel Wire
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Hi folks,
the company "Knippex" (located in Germany) is manufacturing dedicated coated-wire stripping tweezers. I used them for my latest K2 and it works great ! The tweezers are detailed at this URL: http://www.knippex.de/index.php?id=783&L=1&grpID=&ukat=abiso13&ukat_code=&active= Info They also have spare blades in case the original ones get weared down after Your tenth K2. hihi No more fumbling with solder blobs, flames, chemicals or whatsoever. Maybe useful... VY 73 de Marcus, DL1EKC PS: An no, I'm not working for this company. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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