Picked up this partially built K2

[Roland Whitsitt]

I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his cup of tea.  First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track.  I'm not getting anything on some things and others look fine.  My cheapy multimeter could be the problem.  I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything like this before.  Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help.  I always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for this project.  Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from stuff off the shelf.  I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking your heads out there...
Thanks,
  Roland in Stockton, Ca.
de N5VWN
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[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

Gosh, Roland, you have bitten off a big project. Trying to "finish"
something  someone else started is often harder than doing it all yourself.

That said, you can be successful. Just get ready to pat yourself on the back
extra long when you are done.

Once the assembly has gone past the point at which a resistance check is
called for, the subsequent parts installed can alter what you get. So going
back and redoing the resistance checks isn't always possible.  

You mentioned having a cheap 'multimeter'. I hope you mean a digital
multimeter designed for use with solid state gear. Do not use any of the
older multimeters that were in vogue before solid state was  more common
than tubes. The resistance range on older meters used enough current and
voltage to do real serious harm to solid state components. If your cheap
meter is a DMM it is probably fine.

That said, the first thing I recommend is to start with step 1 in the manual
- the stuff that's already been done, and check off each step again,
checking the value of the part the person installed and carefully inspecting
the solder joints for cold or missed joints and any bridges across pads.
It's a bit tedious, but one of the most difficult things to find are the
wrong parts in the wrong places or intermittents caused by missed solder
joints, and the "resistance" checks don't always turn them up. Most of us
use magnifiers while building. I have a head mounted binocular "optivisor"
that is absolutely essential for me. Others find a magnifying visor in a
lamp or a good magnifying glass is enough. Good light and good vision aids
are important.

The gang here will jump in to help you with any problems, and if you don't
get the answer here, just drop a line to "[hidden email]". The
Elecraft guys have this crazy idea that NO Elecraft builder should ever fail
in building their Elecraft rigs, and as long as people ask when they are
stuck, I think they are still batting 1000.

If you have a little patience and are willing to invest the time to take it
one step at a time, you can have a fun trip and a rig that you'll be very
proud to own - not only because it's a technically great rig, but because
you will forever no longer be only a "button pusher", Hi!

Welcome to the big club of "builders", Roland!

Ron AC7AC



-----Original Message-----
I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his
cup of tea.  First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do
the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These
test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to
repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track.  I'm not getting
anything on some things and others look fine.  My cheapy multimeter could be
the problem.  I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything
like this before.  Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it
in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help.  I
always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a
soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for
this project.  Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from
stuff off the shelf.  I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking
your heads out there...
Thanks,
  Roland in Stockton, Ca.
de N5VWN



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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Roland,

Picking up someone else's work is harder that starting it yourself, but can
be done - just take your time and do things one step at a time (see below).

If you are using a "cheapie" multimeter, treat yourself to a DMM - they are
available in a range of prices. Marlin P. Jones and Associates www.mpja.com
has several ranging from $6.95 to $99.95 - the big difference is in
accuracy, so check the specs and decide.  The high price model has an
accuracy of 0.1% +/- 1 Least Significant Digit, while the 'low price leader'
has an accuracy of 2.5% +/- 5 LS Digit.  Remember the accuracy specs when
using your DMM - the % accuracy is applied to the full scale of the range
you are using, but the +/- LS digit is usually the real 'gotcha' for low
readings it says you really can't quite trust the last digit displayed (and
by how much you need to distrust it)..

Another thing about your multimeter - if it is of the older analog type,
don't use it for measuring resistance on solid state devices, some meters
use a rather high voltage when measuring resistance and can give misleading
readings if it causes solid state devices to conduct - a few use voltages
high enough to destroy devices, but this is the extreme case.  Don't throw
the analog meter away, used with an RF probe, it can provide a nice peaking
meter when you get around to aligning the transmitter - an analog meter will
show the peak immediately while a digital meter needs time to 'settle in',
and you can miss the peak.

The best way to proceed with an uncompleted project is to first check that
all components have been inserted in the correct location.  Open the manual
to the parts listing and check each installed part for the correct value.
When that is done, check the soldering carefully, then re-check the
soldering, and when you are finished, go back and check the soldering.  The
most frequent problem is unsoldered or improperly soldered connections and
the second is incorrect components - improperly or poorly tinned toroid
leads (PTTL) is also high on the list, but there are no toroids mounted on
your kit yet.

73,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message -----

I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his
cup of tea.  First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do
the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These
test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to
repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track.  I'm not getting
anything on some things and others look fine.  My cheapy multimeter could be
the problem.  I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything
like this before.  Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it
in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help.  I
always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a
soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for
this project.  Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from
stuff off the shelf.  I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking
your heads out there...


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[Rich Lentz]

Roland:

Down load the ADOBE PDF file of the manual from the Elecraft web site.  In
the block for K2 is a link to the Archive for older manuals with reference
to serial numbers range. This will help you find the parts.  If you click on
the page before you start search adobe will start on that page.  I like the
search in Adobe 6.0  better than 5.0. Sometimes it is very difficult to find
"Highlighted" find on the display as it is off-screen.

The reason Adobe 6 is better than 5.0 is Dynamic Zoom.  The trick is to
click on "Dynamic Zoom," then enlarge until you can read the letters on the
drawing. Then, do your search.  The link for the drawing pages will jump
right to the part.

Good luck.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Roland
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 1:10 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Picked up this partially built K2


I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his
cup of tea.  

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[n5ib]

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 23:09:48 -0800 "Roland" <[hidden email]> writes:
>I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend

Hi Roland,

Welcome to the K2 fold... I'll offer this variation on some of the
comments you've been getting.

Make yourself copies of the schematic diagrams. If possible, blow them up
to tabloid size (11 x 17) Then get a couple different colors of those
highlighter pens.

Doing as other recommended, go through the assembly steps checking that
the previous builder did it it right, and highlight each checked
component on the diagram.

When you get to the point when you start installing components yourself,
switch highlighter colors. You'll be able to easily tell what was "his'n"
and what is "yours'n" and thus properly apportion the blame,  errr,
credit    :^))

This sounds really tedious, since you've already ticked off the part in
the manual, but you'll be amazed how much you learn about how the rig
works just by locating the components on the schematic and seeing what
other parts they are associated with. I did that with my K2 and with a K1
and KX1 I built for a friend.

In any event, at least for me, I do everything I can to stretch out the
building phase, because that's where I have the most fun. When it's all
put together and buttoned up and working I suffer my own form of
postpartum depression - HI

Best of luck with the project.. and one more thing, being in Stockton,
there's bound to be a bunch of K2 owner/builders within an hour's drive.
I'm certain any number of them would be most happy to meet with you to
advise and counsel.

73
Jim N5IB
K2 #1233
 


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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Jim and all,

- Check off placed parts on the schematic ---

This is an excellent suggestion, not only for this particular situation, but
for anyone who would like to gain a bit of experience and knowledge about
the circuits that are being built.

The Elecraft parts placement order is not 'circuit by circuit', but instead
is ordered for being able to locate the placement on the board easily and
mostly avoid physical difficulties in soldering the components.  Not much
learning experience by placing the parts that way, but following along by
checking things off in the schematic can be a learning experience in
itself - a side benefit is that it gives you an opportunity to double check
the component value and can avoid troubles later on.

73 and Happy Thanksgiving everyone,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message -----

>
> Make yourself copies of the schematic diagrams. If possible, blow them up
> to tabloid size (11 x 17) Then get a couple different colors of those
> highlighter pens.
>
> Doing as other recommended, go through the assembly steps checking that
> the previous builder did it it right, and highlight each checked
> component on the diagram.
>
> When you get to the point when you start installing components yourself,
> switch highlighter colors. You'll be able to easily tell what was "his'n"
> and what is "yours'n" and thus properly apportion the blame,  errr,
> credit    :^))
>

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