I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his cup of tea. First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track. I'm not getting anything on some things and others look fine. My cheapy multimeter could be the problem. I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything like this before. Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help. I always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for this project. Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from stuff off the shelf. I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking your heads out there...
Thanks, Roland in Stockton, Ca. de N5VWN _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Gosh, Roland, you have bitten off a big project. Trying to "finish"
something someone else started is often harder than doing it all yourself. That said, you can be successful. Just get ready to pat yourself on the back extra long when you are done. Once the assembly has gone past the point at which a resistance check is called for, the subsequent parts installed can alter what you get. So going back and redoing the resistance checks isn't always possible. You mentioned having a cheap 'multimeter'. I hope you mean a digital multimeter designed for use with solid state gear. Do not use any of the older multimeters that were in vogue before solid state was more common than tubes. The resistance range on older meters used enough current and voltage to do real serious harm to solid state components. If your cheap meter is a DMM it is probably fine. That said, the first thing I recommend is to start with step 1 in the manual - the stuff that's already been done, and check off each step again, checking the value of the part the person installed and carefully inspecting the solder joints for cold or missed joints and any bridges across pads. It's a bit tedious, but one of the most difficult things to find are the wrong parts in the wrong places or intermittents caused by missed solder joints, and the "resistance" checks don't always turn them up. Most of us use magnifiers while building. I have a head mounted binocular "optivisor" that is absolutely essential for me. Others find a magnifying visor in a lamp or a good magnifying glass is enough. Good light and good vision aids are important. The gang here will jump in to help you with any problems, and if you don't get the answer here, just drop a line to "[hidden email]". The Elecraft guys have this crazy idea that NO Elecraft builder should ever fail in building their Elecraft rigs, and as long as people ask when they are stuck, I think they are still batting 1000. If you have a little patience and are willing to invest the time to take it one step at a time, you can have a fun trip and a rig that you'll be very proud to own - not only because it's a technically great rig, but because you will forever no longer be only a "button pusher", Hi! Welcome to the big club of "builders", Roland! Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his cup of tea. First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track. I'm not getting anything on some things and others look fine. My cheapy multimeter could be the problem. I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything like this before. Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help. I always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for this project. Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from stuff off the shelf. I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking your heads out there... Thanks, Roland in Stockton, Ca. de N5VWN _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Roland Whitsitt
Roland,
Picking up someone else's work is harder that starting it yourself, but can be done - just take your time and do things one step at a time (see below). If you are using a "cheapie" multimeter, treat yourself to a DMM - they are available in a range of prices. Marlin P. Jones and Associates www.mpja.com has several ranging from $6.95 to $99.95 - the big difference is in accuracy, so check the specs and decide. The high price model has an accuracy of 0.1% +/- 1 Least Significant Digit, while the 'low price leader' has an accuracy of 2.5% +/- 5 LS Digit. Remember the accuracy specs when using your DMM - the % accuracy is applied to the full scale of the range you are using, but the +/- LS digit is usually the real 'gotcha' for low readings it says you really can't quite trust the last digit displayed (and by how much you need to distrust it).. Another thing about your multimeter - if it is of the older analog type, don't use it for measuring resistance on solid state devices, some meters use a rather high voltage when measuring resistance and can give misleading readings if it causes solid state devices to conduct - a few use voltages high enough to destroy devices, but this is the extreme case. Don't throw the analog meter away, used with an RF probe, it can provide a nice peaking meter when you get around to aligning the transmitter - an analog meter will show the peak immediately while a digital meter needs time to 'settle in', and you can miss the peak. The best way to proceed with an uncompleted project is to first check that all components have been inserted in the correct location. Open the manual to the parts listing and check each installed part for the correct value. When that is done, check the soldering carefully, then re-check the soldering, and when you are finished, go back and check the soldering. The most frequent problem is unsoldered or improperly soldered connections and the second is incorrect components - improperly or poorly tinned toroid leads (PTTL) is also high on the list, but there are no toroids mounted on your kit yet. 73, Don W3FPR ----- Original Message ----- I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his cup of tea. First thing I tried to do was follow along the manual and do the resistance checks on the completed control panel and front panel.These test were already done and the results written down, I was just trying to repeat the steps to see if I was on the right track. I'm not getting anything on some things and others look fine. My cheapy multimeter could be the problem. I'll tell you all right up front that I've never done anything like this before. Before I stuff it back in the box it came in and put it in the attic forever, I thought I'd give this list a try (cry?) for help. I always wanted to do this type of thing and have already invested in a soldering station and big magnifing light among other do-dads, mostly for this project. Kinda hoping to break out of just being a button pusher from stuff off the shelf. I know there has got to be some of you guys shaking your heads out there... _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Roland Whitsitt
Roland: Down load the ADOBE PDF file of the manual from the Elecraft web site. In the block for K2 is a link to the Archive for older manuals with reference to serial numbers range. This will help you find the parts. If you click on the page before you start search adobe will start on that page. I like the search in Adobe 6.0 better than 5.0. Sometimes it is very difficult to find "Highlighted" find on the display as it is off-screen. The reason Adobe 6 is better than 5.0 is Dynamic Zoom. The trick is to click on "Dynamic Zoom," then enlarge until you can read the letters on the drawing. Then, do your search. The link for the drawing pages will jump right to the part. Good luck. -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Roland Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 1:10 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] Picked up this partially built K2 I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend who decided it wasn't his cup of tea. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Roland Whitsitt
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 23:09:48 -0800 "Roland" <[hidden email]> writes:
>I picked up this partially built K2 from a friend Hi Roland, Welcome to the K2 fold... I'll offer this variation on some of the comments you've been getting. Make yourself copies of the schematic diagrams. If possible, blow them up to tabloid size (11 x 17) Then get a couple different colors of those highlighter pens. Doing as other recommended, go through the assembly steps checking that the previous builder did it it right, and highlight each checked component on the diagram. When you get to the point when you start installing components yourself, switch highlighter colors. You'll be able to easily tell what was "his'n" and what is "yours'n" and thus properly apportion the blame, errr, credit :^)) This sounds really tedious, since you've already ticked off the part in the manual, but you'll be amazed how much you learn about how the rig works just by locating the components on the schematic and seeing what other parts they are associated with. I did that with my K2 and with a K1 and KX1 I built for a friend. In any event, at least for me, I do everything I can to stretch out the building phase, because that's where I have the most fun. When it's all put together and buttoned up and working I suffer my own form of postpartum depression - HI Best of luck with the project.. and one more thing, being in Stockton, there's bound to be a bunch of K2 owner/builders within an hour's drive. I'm certain any number of them would be most happy to meet with you to advise and counsel. 73 Jim N5IB K2 #1233 ________________________________________________________________ Juno Platinum $9.95. Juno SpeedBand $14.95. Sign up for Juno Today at http://www.juno.com! Look for special offers at Best Buy stores. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Jim and all,
- Check off placed parts on the schematic --- This is an excellent suggestion, not only for this particular situation, but for anyone who would like to gain a bit of experience and knowledge about the circuits that are being built. The Elecraft parts placement order is not 'circuit by circuit', but instead is ordered for being able to locate the placement on the board easily and mostly avoid physical difficulties in soldering the components. Not much learning experience by placing the parts that way, but following along by checking things off in the schematic can be a learning experience in itself - a side benefit is that it gives you an opportunity to double check the component value and can avoid troubles later on. 73 and Happy Thanksgiving everyone, Don W3FPR ----- Original Message ----- > > Make yourself copies of the schematic diagrams. If possible, blow them up > to tabloid size (11 x 17) Then get a couple different colors of those > highlighter pens. > > Doing as other recommended, go through the assembly steps checking that > the previous builder did it it right, and highlight each checked > component on the diagram. > > When you get to the point when you start installing components yourself, > switch highlighter colors. You'll be able to easily tell what was "his'n" > and what is "yours'n" and thus properly apportion the blame, errr, > credit :^)) > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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