Planning kit purchase
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I am close to being able to purchase my kits. I still have to get my
IC-718 sold. Plan ==== K2 Radio $629 KPA100 100w amp $389 KAT100-1 100w atu $239 KDSP2 DSP $229 KSB2 SSB option $ 99 KNB2 NB $ 39 Later ===== K60XV 60M & xvert $ 89 XV50 6 Meter xvert $369 Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40 "standard rosin-core" solder. Based on what I am reading in the archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will be sufficient. I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat levels. Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip. It has been interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such. I worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple PCBs. I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work. I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which does frequency and capacitance. I am going to head down to Harbor Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over head magnifiers. I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to work on the lighting a bit. Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual as that is the primary choices. It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is no need for the KI02 interface. Just want to ensure I will have everything I need for computer control. I understand I will need their serial kit. Is this what W1SERKT is? The webpage seems to be broken for this. The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge". I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the process. Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad. What would be useful for building the above kits? The N-gen and 2T-gen seem useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other? The XG2 seems like it would be quite useful. Is there a need in the test and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI? 160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits me. But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts? Any other thoughts about the "plan"? Anything I have overlooked? -- David Wilburn [hidden email] K4DGW http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw http://www.qsl.net/waarc _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Dave,
Answering some of your questions: I consider .032 solder too large - it is difficult to control the amount of solder with the large diameter stuff and by the time you get any solder on the connection, it is too much. I recommend a diameter of .020 or smaller, I use .015 myself. A 60/40 core is OK, but the 37/63 alloy is better yet. If you do buy new solder try to get one with a mildly activated flux. Check Mouser www.mouser.com for a good selection of solder. The effectiveness of the noise blanker depends on the type of noise that you encounter. The KNB2 works well on impulse noise such as gasoline engine ignition noise. I am not certain you have all the information quite correct about the K2 to KAT100 interface. IF you have the KPA100 installed you do not need (and cannot use) the KIO2, but if you are going wait until later to add the KPA100, you will need the KIO2 to make the KAT100 function. The KPA100 has an equivalent of the KIO2 interface built into it, and it is all you need to control the K2 from a computer. The W1 is a different animal - it will operate 'standalone', but if you want computer communication with it, you can either build a cable from the drawing in the manual or buy the kit of parts W1SERKT to construct the cable. With your DMM, you have all the tools (other than pliers, flush cutters, screwdrivers, etc.) needed to build and align your K2. After you have it constructed and aligned, you may want the N-gen to help set your filters, but it is not required, and the XG1 or XG2 is handy if you want to make MDS measurements of the receiver and want a calibrated S-9 level signal to check your S-meter response. What I am saying is that the mini-modules are an inexpensive way to begin an electronics lab, but are not needed to build and align the K2. After your K2 build, you may want to do a precise dial calibration and filter alignment, but that can be done using only the K2, WWV reception, and Spectrogram running on your computer. I have an article on K2 dial calibration on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com that tells you all you need to know (and more) about the procedure. Look at it after your K2 is up and running. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > ... > Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40 > "standard rosin-core" solder. Based on what I am reading in the > archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead > discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will > be sufficient. I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat > levels. > > Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip. It has been > interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such. I > worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and > dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple > PCBs. I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work. > > I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which > does frequency and capacitance. I am going to head down to Harbor > Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over > head magnifiers. I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to > work on the lighting a bit. > > Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on > the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the > commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never > really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to > prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual > as that is the primary choices. > > It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is > no need for the KI02 interface. Just want to ensure I will have > everything I need for computer control. I understand I will need their > serial kit. Is this what W1SERKT is? The webpage seems to be broken > for this. The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to > the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge". > > I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see > what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the > process. > > Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad. What > would be useful for building the above kits? The N-gen and 2T-gen seem > useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other? The > XG2 seems like it would be quite useful. Is there a need in the test > and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI? > > 160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits > me. But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems > like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts? > > Any other thoughts about the "plan"? Anything I have overlooked? > -- > > David Wilburn > [hidden email] > K4DGW > http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw > http://www.qsl.net/waarc > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: > 1/18/2007 6:47 PM > No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: 1/18/2007 6:47 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Thanks for the great information. I transposed the KAT100 with the
KPA100 when talking about the computer interface, my mistake. I wasn't sure what the W1SERKT is, as it is only mentioned on the price list, and the link; http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1 takes me to the wattmeter/swr bridge. I do need to look at the flush cuts while I am out and about. Good information on the mini modules, that is what I was looking for. I'll take a read through the article this eventing. Thanks. David Wilburn [hidden email] Don Wilhelm wrote: > Dave, > > Answering some of your questions: > > I consider .032 solder too large - it is difficult to control the amount of > solder with the large diameter stuff and by the time you get any solder on > the connection, it is too much. I recommend a diameter of .020 or smaller, > I use .015 myself. A 60/40 core is OK, but the 37/63 alloy is better yet. > If you do buy new solder try to get one with a mildly activated flux. Check > Mouser www.mouser.com for a good selection of solder. > > The effectiveness of the noise blanker depends on the type of noise that you > encounter. The KNB2 works well on impulse noise such as gasoline engine > ignition noise. > > I am not certain you have all the information quite correct about the K2 to > KAT100 interface. IF you have the KPA100 installed you do not need (and > cannot use) the KIO2, but if you are going wait until later to add the > KPA100, you will need the KIO2 to make the KAT100 function. > > The KPA100 has an equivalent of the KIO2 interface built into it, and it is > all you need to control the K2 from a computer. The W1 is a different > animal - it will operate 'standalone', but if you want computer > communication with it, you can either build a cable from the drawing in the > manual or buy the kit of parts W1SERKT to construct the cable. > > With your DMM, you have all the tools (other than pliers, flush cutters, > screwdrivers, etc.) needed to build and align your K2. After you have it > constructed and aligned, you may want the N-gen to help set your filters, > but it is not required, and the XG1 or XG2 is handy if you want to make MDS > measurements of the receiver and want a calibrated S-9 level signal to check > your S-meter response. What I am saying is that the mini-modules are an > inexpensive way to begin an electronics lab, but are not needed to build and > align the K2. > > After your K2 build, you may want to do a precise dial calibration and > filter alignment, but that can be done using only the K2, WWV reception, and > Spectrogram running on your computer. I have an article on K2 dial > calibration on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com that tells you all you > need to know (and more) about the procedure. Look at it after your K2 is up > and running. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> -----Original Message----- >> ... >> Solder-I have a roll of RadioShack PN64-009E .032 diameter 60/40 >> "standard rosin-core" solder. Based on what I am reading in the >> archives, and not intending to start a "silver/no silver/lead/no lead >> discussion, the solder I have on hand (almost a complete 8oz roll) will >> be sufficient. I have a grounded soldering iron, that has multiple heat >> levels. >> >> Additionally I have a low wattage iron with a pencil tip. It has been >> interesting watching the talk about the "pads and holes" and such. I >> worked on the hardware side of main frame computers in the 80s, and >> dealt with multi-layer boards (6 or 7 layers) as well as the simple >> PCBs. I know how much fun such a system can be for re-work. >> >> I currently have a Fluke DMM, and I have just ordered a Fluke 115 which >> does frequency and capacitance. I am going to head down to Harbor >> Freight some time this weekend and see if they have some of the over >> head magnifiers. I have a place to work on the kit, but I do need to >> work on the lighting a bit. >> >> Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on >> the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the >> commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never >> really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to >> prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual >> as that is the primary choices. >> >> It is stated on the website, that by installing the KAT100-1, there is >> no need for the KI02 interface. Just want to ensure I will have >> everything I need for computer control. I understand I will need their >> serial kit. Is this what W1SERKT is? The webpage seems to be broken >> for this. The price list shows it, with a link, but the link goes to >> the "W1 140W Computing Wattmeter and SWR Bridge". >> >> I plan on contacting "Rework eliminators" with my purchase list, and see >> what I need to get from them to fully integrate their products into the >> process. >> >> Mini modules - The choices of the mini-modules is quite broad. What >> would be useful for building the above kits? The N-gen and 2T-gen seem >> useful for the alignment, but is one more useful than the other? The >> XG2 seems like it would be quite useful. Is there a need in the test >> and alignment for an attenuator such as ATI? >> >> 160m module-I have not found a way to get a 160m antenna up that suits >> me. But for the price and getting the extra receive port, this seems >> like it might be worthwhile. Any thoughts? >> >> Any other thoughts about the "plan"? Anything I have overlooked? >> -- >> >> David Wilburn >> [hidden email] >> K4DGW >> http://www.qsl.net/k4dgw >> http://www.qsl.net/waarc >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> -- >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: >> 1/18/2007 6:47 PM >> > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: 1/18/2007 > 6:47 PM > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Dave,
The W1SERKT is a serial interface for the W1 mini-module wattmeter/ SWR bridge. The KPA100 includes a serial interface for controlling the K2/KPA100. 73 - Bob, N7XY On Jan 19, 2007, at 2:53 PM, David Wilburn wrote: > Thanks for the great information. I transposed the KAT100 with the > KPA100 when talking about the computer interface, my mistake. I > wasn't sure what the W1SERKT is, as it is only mentioned on the > price list, and the link; > > http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1 > > takes me to the wattmeter/swr bridge. > > I do need to look at the flush cuts while I am out and about. Good > information on the mini modules, that is what I was looking for. > I'll take a read through the article this eventing. Thanks. > > David Wilburn > [hidden email] > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Thanks for the info. That clears up the link on the webpage.
David Wilburn [hidden email] Bob Nielsen wrote: > Dave, > > The W1SERKT is a serial interface for the W1 mini-module wattmeter/SWR > bridge. The KPA100 includes a serial interface for controlling the > K2/KPA100. > > 73 - Bob, N7XY > > On Jan 19, 2007, at 2:53 PM, David Wilburn wrote: > >> Thanks for the great information. I transposed the KAT100 with the >> KPA100 when talking about the computer interface, my mistake. I >> wasn't sure what the W1SERKT is, as it is only mentioned on the price >> list, and the link; >> >> http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1 >> >> takes me to the wattmeter/swr bridge. >> >> I do need to look at the flush cuts while I am out and about. Good >> information on the mini modules, that is what I was looking for. I'll >> take a read through the article this eventing. Thanks. >> >> David Wilburn >> [hidden email] >> >> > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by dave.wilburn
Dave Wilburn wrote:
"Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual as that is the primary choices." I really like the KNB2 noise blanker-- it's more effective with less spurious responses than the noise blankers in any of my Kenwood rigs or the Omni 6. The combination of the KNB2 and the NR features in the KDSP2 really works well, and I wouldn't do without either of these options. 73, Chuck NI0C _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Thanks for the input. It is not a lot to spend if it helps.
David Wilburn [hidden email] Chuck Guenther wrote: > Dave Wilburn wrote: > > "Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda on the > fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the commercial rigs. > I understand this one is better, but I have never really seen any impact > from using any of them. The archives seem to prove that user either love or > hate this one. Which does seem unusual as that is the primary choices." > > I really like the KNB2 noise blanker-- it's more effective with less > spurious responses than the noise blankers in any of my Kenwood rigs or the > Omni 6. The combination of the KNB2 and the NR features in the KDSP2 really > works well, and I wouldn't do without either of these options. > > 73, > Chuck NI0C > > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I guess the economic question is whether the cost is worth it to salvage one
evening of operating per year or, if you're a contester, four or so hours of planned contest operation. I'm lucky to live in a rather QRN-free locale - a small town in N.W. Oregon surrounded by open countryside. Even so, I'm occasionally accosted by a very noisy automotive ignition system or - especially if operating portable - a dreaded cheap lamp dimmer. The NB does a fantastic job with that sort of high-peak repetitive interference that would otherwise make any receiver very deaf. For those rare occasions I consider the nominal price of the NB an absolute bargain! Consider it like a "fire extinguisher". It just sits there 99% of the time using up space, but when it's needed.... Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of David Wilburn Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:30 PM To: Chuck Guenther Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Planning kit purchase Thanks for the input. It is not a lot to spend if it helps. David Wilburn [hidden email] Chuck Guenther wrote: > Dave Wilburn wrote: > > "Noise blanker-If I am operating from home, is this needed? I'm kinda > on the fence with this one. My only experience with NB are on the > commercial rigs. I understand this one is better, but I have never > really seen any impact from using any of them. The archives seem to > prove that user either love or hate this one. Which does seem unusual > as that is the primary choices." > > I really like the KNB2 noise blanker-- it's more effective with less > spurious responses than the noise blankers in any of my Kenwood rigs > or the Omni 6. The combination of the KNB2 and the NR features in the > KDSP2 really works well, and I wouldn't do without either of these > options. > > 73, > Chuck NI0C > > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by dave.wilburn
I didn't have good luck with Elecraft's K2 NOISE
BLANKER. I know its advertised to do all sorts of noise reduction .... not my experience. I even bought a 2nd NB, it did'nt work any better. One day 3 cement trucks, and a large pickup truck sat outside of our home. NB did nothing to eliminate these electrical noises. I fact, I couldn't find any ham band noises - that the NB would remove. Maybe it was just some sort of K2 setup thing, that I hadn't done right - .............. Fred, FL ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Noise Blanker Blues (WAS: Planning kit purchase)
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Fred, did you remember or remove jumper W5 when you installed your noise
blanker? W5 is near Q22, the transistor with the heat sink on it. If you forgot, the noise blanker is permanently bypassed. A great test is a cheap lamp dimmer: the kind that makes a wall of noise on 80 meters when it's used. It only requires an investment of a couple of bucks at the hardware store to pick one up, hook it to a lamp and turn it on. If your NB is working properly, it'll kill the noise beautifully. Sometimes it's necessary to turn on the preamp when using the NB. Otherwise the noise pulses may be loud enough to mask weak signals but not strong enough to make the NB spring into action, even when set to "low threshold". In those situations the NB sounds completely inoperative until I turn on the preamp and, presto, the noise disappears. That's on of the rare times I use the preamp on the lower frequencies. Another good noise source for testing should be an old-fashioned doorbell or buzzer. The point is that the NB works on repetitive noise pulses. It is not effective against random 'pops and sizzles' such as lightning QRN and normal band static. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I didn't have good luck with Elecraft's K2 NOISE BLANKER. I know its advertised to do all sorts of noise reduction .... not my experience. I even bought a 2nd NB, it did'nt work any better. One day 3 cement trucks, and a large pickup truck sat outside of our home. NB did nothing to eliminate these electrical noises. I fact, I couldn't find any ham band noises - that the NB would remove. Maybe it was just some sort of K2 setup thing, that I hadn't done right - .............. Fred, FL _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
I used feel the same way about the NB. I would hear noise and find the
elecraft nb did nothing but TS-940s NB would make a significant difference. However, a few times there would be a noise source, my wifes blender, some outside sources of noise, etc, and the Elecraft NB would totally eliminate it, absolutely quiet. Bottom line, the NB does work on certain types of noise, but not on all. I found the same to be true of the Kenwood TS-940 NB also. Have a great weekend. Larry WA2DGD Fred (FL) wrote: > I didn't have good luck with Elecraft's K2 NOISE > BLANKER. I know its advertised to do all sorts of > noise reduction .... not my experience. I even > bought a 2nd NB, it did'nt work any better. One day > 3 cement trucks, and a large pickup truck sat outside > of our home. NB did nothing to eliminate these > electrical noises. I fact, I couldn't find any > ham band noises - that the NB would remove. > > Maybe it was just some sort of K2 setup thing, that > I hadn't done right - .............. > > Fred, FL > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Never miss an email again! > Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > -- 73 Larry WA2DGD _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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