Power Poles...

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Re: K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

Jim Rhodes
When I use PP's for any other voltage or reason the 12V power, I put the
together in a different configuration. If the pair are at right angles
to on another they won't go together with the standard formation.

Jim K0XU
On 6/28/2010 10:35 AM, Howard K2HK wrote:

> I had a very senior moment yesterday related to PowerPoles and could use some help. The power supply that my K3 is powered by has an auxiliary cigar lighter  outlet. In the midst of a project (too late at night)I plugged that cable into a similiar PowerPole which turned out to be the cable from another  P/S which happens to be a 24 VDC supply.The K3 went dead in a blink. Does not restart. First, any suggestion of where to start looking? Second, although this never happened to me before  it is something to be aware of if you have several terminals dangling at your desk. Embarrassing situation!
>
> Howard..K2HK
>
>
>
>
>
>
>    
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Re: Another (stupid) Clock Question

Brett Howard
In reply to this post by clayj
When you're displaying Date or time or whatever (there are several other
things that can be shown in DISP mode).  Simply turn the VFO B knob to
change to the other values...

The K3 is VERY consistent in that if something is displayed in the top
line of text the VFO A knob adjusts it and if it is displayed in the
bottom line of text the VFO B knob adjusts that.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 10:56 -0700, [hidden email] wrote:

> So - I had my new K3 out at our Field Day (W7S - Sammamish ARES/RACES
> Group) operation; and it worked great!   I'm still getting used to all the
> filters and features; but it was definitely a step above any other rig
> there, INCLUDING a Flex-3000.  The "HI RFI" mod definetly saved my rig on
> more than one occasion when someone started using a 40M dipole that was
> only 10' feet separated from the 15M dipole that I was using.
>
> I did have one "interesting" issue - I let a number of folks use the rig,
> with no apparent ill effects; EXCEPT, the clock (when displayed in VFO B)
> is now displaying on the DATE and not the time.   I read through the
> owners manual, and CANNOT seem to figure out how to change that back.
>
> Also - the manual implies that the "Display" button will "cycle" through
> several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
> either the Frequency or Clock display.
>
> Can someone assist?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Clay
> N7QNM
>
>
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Re: Another (stupid) Clock Question

Grant Youngman
In reply to this post by clayj

On Jun 28, 2010, at 12:56 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

>
> Also - the manual implies that the "Display" button will "cycle" through
> several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
> either the Frequency or Clock display.
>

After pressing the DISP button, use the VFO B knob to change the info that is displayed.

Grant/NQ5T

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Re: Power Poles...

W8JI
In reply to this post by Eugene Balinski
That's never safe.

The safe thing to do is to use HV connectors that cannot physically plug
into the LV  socket.

My 24V connectors from power sources are all physically larger than my 13.8
v connectors.

73 Tom


----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Balinski" <[hidden email]>
To: "Grant Youngman" <[hidden email]>; "Elecraft Email"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...


> One method to avoid confusion is to use different color
> power poles for different supply voltages    red-black for
> 13.5V,   green-black for 24V,  White-black for 5V, etc
>
> Many sites sell the various color options.
>
> 73
> K1NR
>
> K2 SN 6k...
>
>
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:48:20 -0500
> Grant Youngman <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> That was the point.
>>
>> The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power
>> pole connector, put it together properly,  and LABEL the
>> darn thing to avoid disasters like plugging a 24v supply
>> into a 12v radio?  :-)
>>
>> Grant/NQ5T
>>
>>
>> On Jun 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Grant Youngman"
>> <[hidden email]>
>> > To: "Elecraft Email" <[hidden email]>
>> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
>> >> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers
>> to solve the polarity problem by using a bridge rectifier
>> at the power input, although that has a definite downside
>> as well.
>> >>
>> >
>> > It sure does have a downside. The 1.4 volts drop would
>> seriously hurt the maximum low-distortion power output.
>> 13.8 volts is bad enough for clean SSB at the 100 watt
>> level.
>>
>>
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Re: Power Poles...

Edward R Cole
In reply to this post by John Ragle
Labeling is a good idea, and probably not become a potential for an
error if your station is static (you assemble it and never make a
change).  But someone like me that is always
building/modifying/rearranging the hookups, labels (alone) will not
prevent an "accident".  I run my 28v power to a separate barrier
terminal strip from the 12v distribution, and make it a 100% process
to always measure the voltage of a new connection with a vtvm before
connecting to the equipment.  Same rule for making new cables (check
polarity and continuity before use).

But realizing that I am "human" I used distinctly different
connectors for running HV and other level voltages.  Never use a RF
connector for dc.  So my 3.6 kV PS cannot physically be connected to
the wrong connector (they look like BNC but are MHV and will not
mate).  Lots of caveats in construction philosophy!

Another thing I am doing these days is making connection diagrams and
schematics for everything.  I keep them in a master drawing 3-ring
notebook so always handy for a moments reference if I have a senior
moment and do not recall exactly how it is supposed to go.  Very
handy in troubleshooting when stuff doesn't work.  I operate 16-bands
600m-3cm, 17-antennas, three towers, and one dish (If I have counted
correctly).  I have 26 coax connections to outside the
shack.  Keeping track is not trivial ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW

------------------------------

Message: 37
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:48:20 -0500
From: Grant Youngman <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
To: Elecraft Email <[hidden email]>
Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

That was the point.

The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power pole
connector, put it together properly,  and LABEL the darn thing to
avoid disasters like plugging a 24v supply into a 12v radio?  :-)

Grant/NQ5T



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
======================================
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-600w, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-fall 2010
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep [hidden email]
======================================

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Re: Power Poles...

Timothy Raymer-2
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Anderson does make a "retention clip" that snaps into the alignment holes that would be otherwise used for the roll pins.  Might solve the issue you are having.

73 de KA0OUV


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 08:13
To: [hidden email]
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

John,

If one has to tape them together, the most likely problem is that they
were not assembled correctly.  Properly assembled APPs are very good and
have an adequate amount of pullout resistance.  The specification is 25
lbf - so yes, they will not withstand a 25 pound pull force, but that is
quite substantial - at anything below that they should stay together.  I
have never had any problem with them, and I use them on all my DC
connections.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Ragle wrote:
>      Aside from "Polish Solidarity" this long string of emails about the
> Anderson variety only confirms my experience-based opinion that these
> connectors are very poorly designed and should be avoided. People I know
> who use them in mobile applications tape them together. My K2 experience
> with them was grossly unsatisfactory. There are other, better, options
> for locking power connectors...
>
> John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: Power Poles...

Phil Kane-2
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman
On 6/28/2010 7:29 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:

> But it isn't possible to accidentally put the two connector sets
> together in anything but the correct orientation.


Yes.  I have a 3x2 set for the control head in the car, and I found out
the hard way that looking at them the mating ends have to be as follows:

One set:       1-2-3          The other set:  4-5-6
               4-5-6      1-2-3

For sanity's sake I use six colors and of course have the R/B placed for
use with a standard APP-equipped 2-wire power cord if necessary.
--
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: Power Poles...

Phil Kane-2
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman
On 6/28/2010 8:48 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:

> The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power pole connector,
> put it together properly,  and LABEL the darn thing to avoid
> disasters like plugging a 24v supply into a 12v radio?  :-)

That's what they make different color shells for, and the PP shells can
be assembled 90 degrees from the "standard" to prevent accidental or
"unwanted" connection.

Remember that a standard is only what one designated it to be.  Once,
it's accidental.  Twice, it's a custom.  Three times, it's a standard.
Four times, it's ordained from on-high.
--
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: Power Poles...

Richard Thorne
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
On 6/28/2010 8:13 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> John,
>
> If one has to tape them together, the most likely problem is that they
> were not assembled correctly.  Properly assembled APPs are very good and
> have an adequate amount of pullout resistance.  The specification is 25
> lbf - so yes, they will not withstand a 25 pound pull force, but that is
> quite substantial - at anything below that they should stay together.  I
> have never had any problem with them, and I use them on all my DC
> connections.
>
>    
I agree with Don.

If the connector is not installed in the shell properly they are easy to
pull apart.  If you don't feel a click when you put two together
something is wrong.

I use them with my rigs as well as my electric powered remote control
airplanes.  My biggest plane generates about 7kw (7000 watts) of power
and significant g-forces while flying, never a problem.

Rich - N5ZC
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