PowerPoles
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If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it. Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them right. Worst case, if
you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2 inch staples from the hardware store. What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put them together right. Art KC7GF ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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When I first tried my hand at power poles they came apart as soon as I put
them together. Had issues for some time till I finally showed a friend one of them and he said no wonder you prepped them great, the problem but all are installed upside down 8>( For some time now all of mine are very dependable and used for almost everything. The key to it if you're going to be installing many is a good quality crimping tool. 73, Fred/N0AZZ K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Art Bross Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:25 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] PowerPoles If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it. Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them right. Worst case, if you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2 inch staples from the hardware store. What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put them together right. Art KC7GF ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6417 - Release Date: 06/16/13 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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The last batch of PP's I purchased were pre welded together, which is very convenient. A spot of super glue also works well.
Steve W1SFR Sent from my iPad On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:35 AM, "Fred Smith" <[hidden email]> wrote: > When I first tried my hand at power poles they came apart as soon as I put > them together. Had issues for some time till I finally showed a friend one > of them and he said no wonder you prepped them great, the problem but all > are installed upside down 8>( > > For some time now all of mine are very dependable and used for almost > everything. The key to it if you're going to be installing many is a good > quality crimping tool. > > > 73, > Fred/N0AZZ > K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100 > P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Art Bross > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:25 PM > To: [hidden email] > Subject: [Elecraft] PowerPoles > > If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have > done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell > cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull > them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should > hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of > the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the > plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it > under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally > the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it. > Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight > before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this > adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling > these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them > right. Worst case, if you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic > clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2 > inch staples from the hardware store. > > What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put > them together right. > > Art > > KC7GF > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6417 - Release Date: 06/16/13 > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I would still prefer to have a latching hook to keep the finished connectors together.
Rick wa6nhc Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable On Jun 17, 2013, at 4:56 AM, Stephen Roberts <[hidden email]> wrote: > The last batch of PP's I purchased were pre welded together, which is very convenient. A spot of super glue also works well. > > Steve > W1SFR > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:35 AM, "Fred Smith" <[hidden email]> wrote: > >> When I first tried my hand at power poles they came apart as soon as I put >> them together. Had issues for some time till I finally showed a friend one >> of them and he said no wonder you prepped them great, the problem but all >> are installed upside down 8>( >> >> For some time now all of mine are very dependable and used for almost >> everything. The key to it if you're going to be installing many is a good >> quality crimping tool. >> >> >> 73, >> Fred/N0AZZ >> K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100 >> P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [hidden email] >> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Art Bross >> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:25 PM >> To: [hidden email] >> Subject: [Elecraft] PowerPoles >> >> If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have >> done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell >> cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull >> them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should >> hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of >> the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the >> plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it >> under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally >> the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it. >> Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight >> before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this >> adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling >> these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them >> right. Worst case, if you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic >> clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2 >> inch staples from the hardware store. >> >> What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put >> them together right. >> >> Art >> >> KC7GF >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6417 - Release Date: 06/16/13 >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Yes, but preferably something attached to the connector and not able to 'disappear' when you disconnect them. ;-) now where I set that? Oh, my arm 'swept' the table, again.
Those will do until something better happens. Thanks, I'll order a bag or two. I prefer a positive lock on connectors since Murphy has an apartment here... Rick wa6nhc Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable On Jun 17, 2013, at 8:32 AM, Walter Underwood <[hidden email]> wrote: > Like these? > > http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/powerpole-retention-clips.html > > wunder > K6WRU > > On Jun 17, 2013, at 8:01 AM, Rick Bates wrote: > >> I would still prefer to have a latching hook to keep the finished connectors together. >> >> Rick wa6nhc >> >> Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable >> >> On Jun 17, 2013, at 4:56 AM, Stephen Roberts <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >>> The last batch of PP's I purchased were pre welded together, which is very convenient. A spot of super glue also works well. >>> >>> Steve >>> W1SFR >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:35 AM, "Fred Smith" <[hidden email]> wrote: >>> >>>> When I first tried my hand at power poles they came apart as soon as I put >>>> them together. Had issues for some time till I finally showed a friend one >>>> of them and he said no wonder you prepped them great, the problem but all >>>> are installed upside down 8>( >>>> >>>> For some time now all of mine are very dependable and used for almost >>>> everything. The key to it if you're going to be installing many is a good >>>> quality crimping tool. >>>> >>>> >>>> 73, >>>> Fred/N0AZZ >>>> K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100 >>>> P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: [hidden email] >>>> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Art Bross >>>> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:25 PM >>>> To: [hidden email] >>>> Subject: [Elecraft] PowerPoles >>>> >>>> If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have >>>> done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell >>>> cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull >>>> them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should >>>> hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of >>>> the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the >>>> plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it >>>> under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally >>>> the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it. >>>> Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight >>>> before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this >>>> adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling >>>> these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them >>>> right. Worst case, if you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic >>>> clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2 >>>> inch staples from the hardware store. >>>> >>>> What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put >>>> them together right. >>>> >>>> Art >>>> >>>> KC7GF >>>> >>>> >>>> ______________________________________________________________ >>>> Elecraft mailing list >>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>>> >>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>>> ----- >>>> No virus found in this message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6417 - Release Date: 06/16/13 >>>> >>>> ______________________________________________________________ >>>> Elecraft mailing list >>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>>> >>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> ______________________________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > -- > Walter Underwood > [hidden email] > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Art Bross
It appears this thread has broken into several topics based upon the readers
interpretation of the problem. Let's break it into 4 categories: 1. Connecting the wire to the contact (crimping or soldering) 2. Inserting the contact into the connector body 3. Mating two connector bodies to form a power plug 4. Retaining the power plug in the receptacle on the back of the K3 My problem deals with number 4. I don't think the plug is securely retained in the receptacle. I'm using heavy gauge wire which tends to pull the plug out. Due to the stiffness and weight of the power wire, it doesn't take much force to break the connection. Due to the receptacle being mounted inside the back panel of the K3, there is no way to install one of the retainer clips. 73, Roger -- Remember the Liberty (AGTR-5) http://www.usslibertyveterans.org/ http://www.gtr5.com/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Power Poles Retainer Shipping and Handling
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In reply to this post by Rick WA6NHC
I'd have to need a whopping large quantity of these retainers to justify the shipping and handling ($6.49) that Powerwerx wants to ship 5 of these little $0.49 devils to me here in the Midwest. Perhaps someday I'll buy some other stuff from them and order a dozen clips at the same time. Perhaps not.
UPS Ground is their least expensive option. I think you could mail a dozen of those clips via USPS for a LOT less than $6.49. Terry, W0FM -----Original Message----- From: Walter Underwood [mailto:[hidden email]] Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles Like these? http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/powerpole-retention-clips.html wunder K6WRU ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Power Poles Retainer Shipping and Handling
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Terry and all,
Yes, shipping is an expensive addition for small orders. I try to buy enough to justify it. USPS Small Flat Rate Box shipping is $5.80, so you will not save much by USPS unless it will fit into a padded envelope and that will still cost a couple dollars. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/17/2013 1:49 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: > I'd have to need a whopping large quantity of these retainers to justify the shipping and handling ($6.49) that Powerwerx wants to ship 5 of these little $0.49 devils to me here in the Midwest. Perhaps someday I'll buy some other stuff from them and order a dozen clips at the same time. Perhaps not. > > UPS Ground is their least expensive option. I think you could mail a dozen of those clips via USPS for a LOT less than $6.49. > > Terry, W0FM > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter Underwood [mailto:[hidden email]] > Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:32 AM > To: Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles > > Like these? > > http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/powerpole-retention-clips.html > > wunder > K6WRU > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Art Bross
I recently built some 75A powerpole connectors and bought the bonded
version. Had some difficulty getting a good insertion of the pins. I wanted to use No. 10 wire and could not get a decent crimp that would allow insertion (granted I do not have the proper crimper). I finally resorted to using short pigtail of No.8 wire which inserted with not too much effort. I guess I will have to purchase the crimper if I am making many of these. This cable was for my new 140w HF amp. I did note that getting the connectors to seat so they would not pull apart (cat.4, below) was a bit difficult as I did not get the mating connector located thru the chassis hole far enough for them to click easily. I built custom mounting pcb for the pcb power pole (an fairly pleased with the outcome): http://www.kl7uw.com/LPFilter.htm 73, Ed It appears this thread has broken into several topics based upon the readers interpretation of the problem. Let's break it into 4 categories: 1. Connecting the wire to the contact (crimping or soldering) 2. Inserting the contact into the connector body 3. Mating two connector bodies to form a power plug 4. Retaining the power plug in the receptacle on the back of the K3 My problem deals with number 4. I don't think the plug is securely retained in the receptacle. I'm using heavy gauge wire which tends to pull the plug out. Due to the stiffness and weight of the power wire, it doesn't take much force to break the connection. Due to the receptacle being mounted inside the back panel of the K3, there is no way to install one of the retainer clips. 73, Roger 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com [hidden email] "Kits made by KL7UW" ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Roger D Johnson
Roger . . .
K3 serial number 21 was received in kit-form on October 27, 2007, with the power pole connector firmly attached to the RF Board (by the board manufacturer) but with one of the wires going to one side of the power pole just barely long enough to reach the connector. This meant that the metal contact on the too-short wire wasallowing the transfer of electricity buthad not completely snapped into place. The result was a very loose power cord-to-K3 connection that would occasionally slip out. The moral of this minor story is that BOTH sides of the APP juncture must be inspected, not just the one you might have assembled yourself. Just because something is "factory wired and tested" doesn't necessarily mean all is well. 73, Kent K9ZTV On 6/17/2013 10:53 AM, Roger D Johnson wrote: > It appears this thread has broken into several topics based upon the > readers interpretation of the > problem. Let's break it into 4 categories: > > 1. Connecting the wire to the contact (crimping or soldering) > > 2. Inserting the contact into the connector body > > 3. Mating two connector bodies to form a power plug > > 4. Retaining the power plug in the receptacle on the back of the K3 > > My problem deals with number 4. I don't think the plug is securely > retained in the receptacle. I'm > using heavy gauge wire which tends to pull the plug out. Due to the > stiffness and weight of the power > wire, it doesn't take much force to break the connection. Due to the > receptacle being mounted inside > the back panel of the K3, there is no way to install one of the > retainer clips. > > 73, Roger > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Edward R Cole
If you do not have a proper crimping tool, solder the APP contacts.
Soldering has its downside if used in high vibration environments (the wire will break where the wicked solder ends), but for applications where the wire is not subjected to vibration, soldering is better than connections made with an improvised crimping tool. "Everything is relative", and there are no hard and fast "rules". 73, Don W3FPR On 6/17/2013 2:39 PM, Edward R Cole wrote: > I recently built some 75A powerpole connectors and bought the bonded > version. Had some difficulty getting a good insertion of the pins. I > wanted to use No. 10 wire and could not get a decent crimp that would > allow insertion (granted I do not have the proper crimper). I finally > resorted to using short pigtail of No.8 wire which inserted with not > too much effort. > > I guess I will have to purchase the crimper if I am making many of these. > > This cable was for my new 140w HF amp. I did note that getting the > connectors to seat so they would not pull apart (cat.4, below) was a > bit difficult as I did not get the mating connector located thru the > chassis hole far enough for them to click easily. > > I built custom mounting pcb for the pcb power pole (an fairly pleased > with the outcome): > http://www.kl7uw.com/LPFilter.htm > > 73, Ed > > It appears this thread has broken into several topics based upon the > readers > interpretation of the > problem. Let's break it into 4 categories: > > 1. Connecting the wire to the contact (crimping or soldering) > > 2. Inserting the contact into the connector body > > 3. Mating two connector bodies to form a power plug > > 4. Retaining the power plug in the receptacle on the back of the K3 > > My problem deals with number 4. I don't think the plug is securely > retained in > the receptacle. I'm > using heavy gauge wire which tends to pull the plug out. Due to the > stiffness > and weight of the power > wire, it doesn't take much force to break the connection. Due to the > receptacle > being mounted inside > the back panel of the K3, there is no way to install one of the > retainer clips. > > 73, Roger > > > 73, Ed - KL7UW > http://www.kl7uw.com > [hidden email] > "Kits made by KL7UW" > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Power Poles Retainer Shipping and Handling
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In reply to this post by Terry Schieler-2
On 6/17/2013 10:49 AM, Terry Schieler wrote:
> I'd have to need a whopping large quantity of these retainers to > justify the shipping and handling ($6.49) that Powerwerx wants to > ship 5 of these little $0.49 devils to me here in the Midwest. > Perhaps someday I'll buy some other stuff from them and order a dozen > clips at the same time. Perhaps not. At least one vendor - DC Power LLC (www.dcpwr.com) - sells them at major hamfests with no shipping. He's local here so I never have to pay shipping either. Although Wes is a friend I have no financial interest in his company. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Power Poles Retainer Shipping and Handling
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HRO carries a lot of Powerwerx stuff. I'll try to find some tomorrow at the
Sunnyvale CA store. /Rick On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Phil Kane <[hidden email]> wrote: > On 6/17/2013 10:49 AM, Terry Schieler wrote: > > > I'd have to need a whopping large quantity of these retainers to > > justify the shipping and handling ($6.49) that Powerwerx wants to > > ship 5 of these little $0.49 devils to me here in the Midwest. > > Perhaps someday I'll buy some other stuff from them and order a dozen > > clips at the same time. Perhaps not. > > At least one vendor - DC Power LLC (www.dcpwr.com) - sells them at major > hamfests with no shipping. He's local here so I never have to pay > shipping either. Although Wes is a friend I have no financial interest > in his company. > > 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane > Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 > > From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest > Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Rick Tavan N6XI Truckee, CA ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Art Bross
Don,
I tried that, first. I trust solder joints to maintain low resistance better than crimping in some atmospheres. But the large wire sitting in the connector with the crimp "wings" sticking straight up would not fit into the square hole of the power pole. I wasted one connector in finding this out (development costs of engineering - HI). So I tired once more by crimping the connector as best I could and still it would not fit. Reducing the wire size allowed the connector to crimp down to a size that would allow the wire to insert into the connector. I am really questioning if the 75A connector is usable with 10awg wire (red-black bought from powerwerx). As I already stated, acquiring a crimper is the solution (or using smaller gauge wire). I am a fanatic for using adequate dc wiring to handle load currents with low voltage drop. Assuring the amp is fed with adequate voltage runs the transistors at a much better specs. Thanks for the suggestions, though. Enjoying 70F wx in the sun today (heat wave for AK). 73, Ed PS: try UPS/Fedex rates to AK. $5 part $65 shipping If you do not have a proper crimping tool, solder the APP contacts. Soldering has its downside if used in high vibration environments (the wire will break where the wicked solder ends), but for applications where the wire is not subjected to vibration, soldering is better than connections made with an improvised crimping tool. "Everything is relative", and there are no hard and fast "rules". 73, Don W3FPR 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com [hidden email] "Kits made by KL7UW" ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Art Bross
I have some #12 stranded wire that came from Radio Shack in my
junk box. (I always like to support local stores. Perhaps they'll be there when I need something in a hurry.) Cheers - Bill, AE6JV On 6/17/13 at 10:54 AM, [hidden email] (Walter Underwood) wrote: >How about using very flexible stranded power wire? Powerwerx >has spools of it, but I'm sure it is available elsewhere. -------------------------------------------------------------- Bill Frantz | There are now so many exceptions to the 408-356-8506 | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by www.pwpconsult.com | accident. - William Hugh Murray ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Edward R Cole
Ed,
If you are using #10 wire, I would rate that at 30 amps. That gauge wire will just barely fit into the 30 amp APP connectors, and I prefer to use the 45 amp connectors for #10 wire. I think your use of the 75 amp APP connectors is overkill. Yes, the proper crimping tool is mandatory IMHO for APP connectors of the 45 amp and above rating. With the 30 amp and below connectors, soldering is a possibility, but not for the larger current rating connectors. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/17/2013 7:28 PM, Edward R Cole wrote: > Don, > > I tried that, first. I trust solder joints to maintain low resistance > better than crimping in some atmospheres. But the large wire sitting > in the connector with the crimp "wings" sticking straight up would not > fit into the square hole of the power pole. I wasted one connector in > finding this out (development costs of engineering - HI). So I tired > once more by crimping the connector as best I could and still it would > not fit. Reducing the wire size allowed the connector to crimp down > to a size that would allow the wire to insert into the connector. > > I am really questioning if the 75A connector is usable with 10awg wire > (red-black bought from powerwerx). As I already stated, acquiring a > crimper is the solution (or using smaller gauge wire). I am a fanatic > for using adequate dc wiring to handle load currents with low voltage > drop. Assuring the amp is fed with adequate voltage runs the > transistors at a much better specs. > > Thanks for the suggestions, though. > > Enjoying 70F wx in the sun today (heat wave for AK). > 73, Ed > PS: try UPS/Fedex rates to AK. $5 part $65 shipping ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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FWIW - My memory of the National Electrical Code is that
soldering is permitted for low current connections (up to 20A), but higher currents require wire nuts or some other approved connection. The code authorities worry that a bad connection will got hot and melt the solder letting it flow out of the connection making mischief inside the electrical box, as well as make the connection worse possibly causing a fire. Cheers - Bill, AE6JV On 6/17/13 at 6:22 PM, [hidden email] (Don Wilhelm) wrote: >Yes, the proper crimping tool is mandatory IMHO for APP >connectors of the 45 amp and above rating. With the 30 amp and >below connectors, soldering is a possibility, but not for the >larger current rating connectors. -------------------------------------------------------------- Bill Frantz | There are now so many exceptions to the 408-356-8506 | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by www.pwpconsult.com | accident. - William Hugh Murray ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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