Preparing for the Build of the K3 Kit S/N 3823

[KC2VNI]

I recv'd the K3 and I am reading the instructions. I figured I'd ask some basic questions on a few things before putting tab "A" into slot "B". (I've already looked through the instructions to get an overview of what I should expect and I'll read them again before diving into this)

1) A means to hold the smaller hardware- What types of holders or containers do you guys use to hold the smaller screws?

2) Static electricity-I was going to purchase a static mat with a ground strap. Some questions:
- Does anyone have experience with the type of static mat they sell at Radio Shack?
- Is it acceptable to work on a wooden table top that has painted metal legs and attach the ground from the mat to the table leg even if it's painted?


3) Multi-Meter: Is an inexpensive Radio Shack unit acceptable for measuring the resistances that are discussed in the assembly manual? Does anyone have suggestions about what model they would use?

As a side note, I've got my power supply (an Astron RS-35M) ordered so I'll be able to hopefully conduct at least the "smoke test". The antenna will be the next piece of the puzzle once the smoke test is out of the way.

Also, I'd like to pass my compliments along to those of you who've taken the time to post you tube videos of their building experience. It's been helpful.

As a general comment that is not of a technical nature, my feeling is that this is going to take me longer than 7-8 hours to build. I'll let you know how I'm progressing and if I have further questions.


I thank you in advance for whatever suggestions you may have.

73

KC2VNI

Steve

[Dick Dievendorff]

Hi, Steve.

1) I use little plastic snap-cover boxes that have small compartments for
small parts like this.  I find my fingers are sometimes too large to get
into the 1x1" compartments, so I keep a pair of tweezers handy. I've heard
of everything from egg cartons to muffin tins being used.  Just something to
keep the parts from wandering around.

2) The anti-static mat that Radio Shack sells should be fine.  Connect the
mat to a wrist strap and connect the wrist strap to you. If you set the
envelope on the mat and then open it while you have the wrist strap on, and
the chassis is also sitting on the mat, then you won't have much potential
between them.

3) Almost any DMM will do.  The checks being made are intended to catch
gross, destructive issues.

Take your time, and savor the experience!  It will help to make you "one
with the radio"...  

73 de Dick, K6KR


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of KC2VNI
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 4:01 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Preparing for the Build of the K3 Kit S/N 3823


I recv'd the K3 and I am reading the instructions. I figured I'd ask some
basic questions on a few things before putting tab "A" into slot "B". (I've
already looked through the instructions to get an overview of what I should
expect and I'll read them again before diving into this)

1) A means to hold the smaller hardware- What types of holders or containers
do you guys use to hold the smaller screws?

2) Static electricity-I was going to purchase a static mat with a ground
strap. Some questions:
- Does anyone have experience with the type of static mat they sell at Radio
Shack?
- Is it acceptable to work on a wooden table top that has painted metal legs
and attach the ground from the mat to the table leg even if it's painted?


3) Multi-Meter: Is an inexpensive Radio Shack unit acceptable for measuring
the resistances that are discussed in the assembly manual? Does anyone have
suggestions about what model they would use?

As a side note, I've got my power supply (an Astron RS-35M) ordered so I'll
be able to hopefully conduct at least the "smoke test". The antenna will be
the next piece of the puzzle once the smoke test is out of the way.

Also, I'd like to pass my compliments along to those of you who've taken the
time to post you tube videos of their building experience. It's been
helpful.

As a general comment that is not of a technical nature, my feeling is that
this is going to take me longer than 7-8 hours to build. I'll let you know
how I'm progressing and if I have further questions.


I thank you in advance for whatever suggestions you may have.

73

KC2VNI

Steve
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[Barry N1EU]

Steve, a while back a compilation of kit building tips was posted on the K3 Wiki at http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Kit_Building

I think many of the tips are still quite good and relevant.

73,
Barry N1EU

KC2VNI wrote

I thank you in advance for whatever suggestions you may have.

[gm3sek]

Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>
>2) The anti-static mat that Radio Shack sells should be fine.  Connect
>the mat to a wrist strap and connect the wrist strap to you. If you set
>the envelope on the mat and then open it while you have the wrist strap
>on, and the chassis is also sitting on the mat, then you won't have
>much potential between them.
>

That is a very important point: static protection is all about keeping
yourself, the K3 chassis and the individual parts at the SAME potential.

A huge amount of ESD damage is caused by the careless belief that
"grounding" is the only important thing is ESD protection. It isn't -
connecting to Planet Earth is only a secondary factor in static
protection. Keeping everything at the SAME potential must ALWAYS come
first. That's what the anti-static mat and wrist strap are for.

If you do make connection to the electrical safety ground is the shack,
it must be to only one point: the stud in the corner of the mat, where
you also connect the wrist strap. Check that the wrist strap has a 1Mohm
resistance between the wristband and the stud connection - this is very
important for both ESD safety and your personal safety. When you have
made that check, strap on the wristband so that the metal is contacting
the smooth skin on the inside of your wrist.

Place the K3 in the middle of the anti-static mat, so that the
resistance of the mat will limit any ESD surges. DO NOT jumper the K3
chassis to the ground stud - that would make it less ESD-safe!



--

73 from Ian GM3SEK         'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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