Proper installation of PL 259's
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Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years. I have installed
thousands of PL 250's. Motorola back in the mid 1980's start suggesting installers use crimp on connectors because of too many redoes on mobile installations. Most of the service problems on new installations was bad solder connections of PL 259s. So Motorola developed a nice crimp on PL 259 an a special crimping tool to go with the connectors. Being an old school tech. I had some reservations as too how they would hold up in ruff service installations. Well they held up very well an are still being used today. So, if you want good crimp on PL259s go to your local Motorola Service Shop an buy some connector. Bill, W0WFH ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Were these waterproof too Bill?
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108) Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad. On 12 Nov 2013, at 11:04, W0WFH Bill wrote: > Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years. I have installed > thousands of PL 250's. Motorola back in the mid 1980's start suggesting installers use > crimp on connectors because of too many redoes on mobile installations. Most of the > service problems on new installations was bad solder connections of PL 259s. > > > So Motorola developed a nice crimp on PL 259 an a special crimping tool to go with > the connectors. Being an old school tech. I had some reservations as too how they would > hold up in ruff service installations. Well they held up very well an are still being used today. > > So, if you want good crimp on PL259s go to your local Motorola Service Shop an buy some > connector. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by W0WFH Bill
As far as water proof... no connector not PL 259 crimp or solder are water proof without
doing a good tape job or using some of the spray on rubber sealant. Water proofing connector is an art in it own. 3M make some shrink tape that works good, but now a lot of people are using this spray on rubber sealant as advertise on TV. So far it looks to be holding up good an can be removed easy once it setup, it also remain flex able, If you think water proofing a PL 259 is hard at average ham heights of 30 to 80 feet try waterproofing a N connector on the end of 7/8 " helix at 300 ft plus feet in the air. Good Luck all Bill,W0WFH On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 5:04 AM, W0WFH Bill <[hidden email]> wrote: Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years. I have installed thousands of PL 250's. Motorola back in the mid 1980's start suggesting installers use crimp on connectors because of too many redoes on mobile installations. Most of the service problems on new installations was bad solder connections of PL 259s. So Motorola developed a nice crimp on PL 259 an a special crimping tool to go with the connectors. Being an old school tech. I had some reservations as too how they would hold up in ruff service installations. Well they held up very well an are still being used today. So, if you want good crimp on PL259s go to your local Motorola Service Shop an buy some connector. Bill, W0WFH ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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I and several others in this area have been using the Flex Seal or something
like that on connectors for 4 or 5 years now. Spray can or paint on both work very well. Have had no or heard of any failures or problems using this stuff. I now use it on all mechanical points on antennas that have a bolt/nut type of arrangement. No nuts backing out from vibration etc. If you have to open up the connector or joint the stuff comes off cleanly. The best guys in the business can make a bad connector from time to time. My best advice would be to take your time when doing any connectors. I also use crimp connectors on all jumpers that are in use indoors. A good quality tool is essential. I think someone mentioned before to start with a dry connector and keep it that way through the process. Do not use any silicon grease inside any connector for any reason even if Andrews tells you to. Just do not do it. 73 K0AZ Mike Sanders EM37cd SW Missouri www.k0az.com -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of W0WFH Bill Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 7:43 AM To: elecraft forum Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's As far as water proof... no connector not PL 259 crimp or solder are water proof without doing a good tape job or using some of the spray on rubber sealant. Water proofing connector is an art in it own. 3M make some shrink tape that works good, but now a lot of people are using this spray on rubber sealant as advertise on TV. So far it looks to be holding up good an can be removed easy once it setup, it also remain flex able, If you think water proofing a PL 259 is hard at average ham heights of 30 to 80 feet try waterproofing a N connector on the end of 7/8 " helix at 300 ft plus feet in the air. Good Luck all Bill,W0WFH On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 5:04 AM, W0WFH Bill <[hidden email]> wrote: Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years. I have installed thousands of PL 250's. Motorola back in the mid 1980's start suggesting installers use crimp on connectors because of too many redoes on mobile installations. Most of the service problems on new installations was bad solder connections of PL 259s. So Motorola developed a nice crimp on PL 259 an a special crimping tool to go with the connectors. Being an old school tech. I had some reservations as too how they would hold up in ruff service installations. Well they held up very well an are still being used today. So, if you want good crimp on PL259s go to your local Motorola Service Shop an buy some connector. Bill, W0WFH ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by W0WFH Bill
No thanks, I'll leave that one to you mast climbers :-)
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108) -- Always remember, half the people in the world are above average intelligence! On 12 Nov 2013, at 13:42, W0WFH Bill wrote: > try waterproofing a N connector on the end of 7/8 " helix at 300 ft plus feet in the air. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by W0WFH Bill
For whatever it might be worth, I have been using nothing but crimped connectors for at least the past 5 years. In addition, once out of the rig, I use nothing but 7/16 DIN connectors. They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance. 73 Alan R. Downing Phoenix, AZ From: W0WFH Bill [via Elecraft] [mailto:[hidden email]] Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years. I have installed If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Proper-installation-of-PL-259-s-tp7580733.html To unsubscribe from Elecraft, click here. |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by W0WFH Bill
If you think water proofing a PL 259 is hard at average ham heights
of 30 to 80 feet try waterproofing a N connector on the end of 7/8 " helix at 300 ft plus feet in the air. Good Luck all Bill,W0WFH? -------------------------- Bill, Yep! Been there. When possible, I pre-installed my top-end connectors on the ground before raising the hardline. Of course usually there is a flexible jumper to the antenna that needs sealing to the hardline. Yesterday.,I shortened a run of 7/8-inch Heliax for installation on my new 6m tower so that required re-installing the N-connector. What is nice about the N-connector for the larger hardlines is that no soldering is required (center conductor is hollow copper tubing which the center pin assembly screws into with self-cutting thread. Solid copper shield is compression fit, per usual. Most of the new connectors are supplied with heat-shrink tubing to seal the connector. I also use heat-shrink for coax connector junctions and sometimes add a wrap of electric tape or Scotch-Kote the seams (or both). Applying heat shrink on tall towers is problematic since one usually can not use an electric heat gun. Most of my ham towers are short enough to haul up an extension cord. (PS: 6-element 30-foot boom 6m yagi is going up, today). 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com [hidden email] "Kits made by KL7UW" ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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Try heat shrink on 7/8s at 300 foot... in the wind... (when doesn't it blow at 350 - 300 and above??)with a propane torch.... and no.. you can't carry a cardboard box up with you either. The challenges of working at a higher level.....
Have a great day, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy > Applying heat shrink on tall towers is problematic since one usually > can not use an electric heat gun. Most of my ham towers are short > enough to haul up an extension cord. (PS: 6-element 30-foot boom 6m > yagi is going up, today). ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by kd7gc
On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote:
> They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance. I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield migration. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really?
Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch Staunton, Illinois email: [hidden email] -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote: > They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance. I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield migration. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II <
[hidden email]> wrote: > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? Yeah, really. A lot of people take really common stuff for granted, like soldering connectors onto coax. For those of us who don't have decades of experience/mistakes under their belt (and who got their ticket in the era of the internet and pre-made coax), small things like this (which have big impacts) are lost to convenience. For every person like me who freely admits that I dont know the correct way to solder a PL-259 and thought pre-made was 'good enough', there are probably 10 who are too afraid to come forward to admit it. You should be happy that some of us /want/ to make their own coax instead of the premade stuff. Isn't that keeping a little part of the 'real' hobby alive. I'll get off your lawn now. Im just a young whippersnapper. Frank KG6EYC -- CW: NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155 | SOC #1038 | FPQRP #3186 Digital: FHC #4224 | 30MDG #6370 | DMC #5698 Gear: K3 #7164 | KX3 #1787 http://vadept.com ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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It's obviously a topic of -intense- interest to a -lot- of folks.
73! K0PP On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 5:28 AM, Frank Precissi <[hidden email]> wrote: > On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II < > [hidden email]> wrote: > > > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? > > > Yeah, really. > > A lot of people take really common stuff for granted, like soldering > connectors onto coax. For those of us who don't have decades of > experience/mistakes under their belt (and who got their ticket in the era > of the internet and pre-made coax), small things like this (which have big > impacts) are lost to convenience. > > For every person like me who freely admits that I dont know the correct way > to solder a PL-259 and thought pre-made was 'good enough', there are > probably 10 who are too afraid to come forward to admit it. You should be > happy that some of us /want/ to make their own coax instead of the premade > stuff. Isn't that keeping a little part of the 'real' hobby alive. > > I'll get off your lawn now. Im just a young whippersnapper. > > Frank > > > > > > > > > > > > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Dr. William J. Schmidt, II
Yeah, really?
I've been following this thread and can see we've barely scratched the surface of PL-259 assembly techniques. Where are the comments on brazing, laser welding, induction welding, and so forth? And how do you attach a PL-259 to hard line? And what about mods to use the PL-259/SO-239 pair as a high-voltage connector, by drilling out the center pin and feeding eight or ten inches of the insulated coax center conductor through the resulting holes? This was popular way back when real hams used real vacuum tubes with real high voltage in their "finals" instead of these newfangled transistor "tuner-less" finals running off of car-battery voltages. Oh, wait! This is the Elecraft reflector! My KX3 (S/N 3931) works fine running off a car battery, if not perzactly real portable without the car attached. And did I not notice that it connects to the antenna using a (gasp!) BNC with a quarter-turn twist instead of the stalwart UHF that screws down oh-so-tight and can be waterproofed with only a few layers of assorted self-vulcanizing tape, spray on magic goo, shrink tubing and Scotch tape? Just kidding! I bought a coax "kit" package from Amateur Radio Supplies a few months ago: 100' of "generic LMR-400" Made-in-the-USA DRF-400 coax; a bag of ten silver-plated, Teflon insulated, PL-259 connectors; 1" shrink tubing with "gooie inside" for same; a stripping tool; and a large-cable cutting tool. The stripping tool appears to be a waste of time and money as I can strip better with a sharp knife and a keen sense of touch, but maybe I'll get the hang of it eventually. The cable cutter is handy and appears well-made; about on par with the Crescent cable cutter before I loaned that out and got it back with nicks all over the cutting edges, despite warning the user not to cut anything except copper wire with it. So, I dutifully followed all the instructions and attached a PL-259 to one end of the cable. But I haven't soldered it yet because I am still looking for my "real" soldering iron, with the fabric-covered cord, circa 1955, with which to solder the braid. A co-worker found exactly what I need on e-Bay for thirty bucks a few weeks ago and bought it for his work, bragging that the same thing sold for about $135 (new) from McMaster-Carr. Meanwhile, I'm looking at my propane torch and wondering about using that, with or without a soldering iron tip (which I have also misplaced) attached to the end. Or maybe I'll just borrow my co-worker's iron. Or maybe I can dig up the old tin-smith iron that Grandpa used to heat up with his gasoline blow torch... Sufficeint temperature AND thermal mass to maintain that temperature are important iron characteristics when soldering the braid on a PL-259. I haven't assembled a PL-259 in over forty years, but it is just like riding a bicycle once you get the hang of it. Go in hot, go in fast, use eutectic 63/37 tin/lead rosin-cored Kester-brand solder, and don't "quench" it after soldering. Just let it sit undisturbed for a few minutes. I shudder every time I see a tech try to short-cut the cooling off period. This "quenching" practice leads to "cold" solder joints. There has been some good advice and some bad advice in this thread, but that's typical of the Internet. YMMV. I really like the Max-Gain tutorial (http://www.mgs4u.com/Connector-PL-259-guide.htm)probably because that's pretty much the way I've always done it. 73 de AC8NS Hop ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. William J. Schmidt, II" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? > > > Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ > > Owner - Operator > Big Signal Ranch > Staunton, Illinois > > email: [hidden email] > > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown > Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM > To: [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's > > On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote: >> They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very > low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or > switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have > never been disappointed with their performance. > > I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define > "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what > frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. > > Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, > I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can > think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality > PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and > there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. > > BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable > are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're > a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to > the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the > outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield > migration. > > 73, Jim K9YC > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Dr. William J. Schmidt, II
Yes,
Stupid me, I signed up for wrong email list, I thought this was an Elecraft email list? Not a list for cables, connectors, how to solder...... Emory WM3M -----Original Message----- From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch Staunton, Illinois email: [hidden email] -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote: > They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance. I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield migration. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by Frank Precissi
Hey ya 'young whippersnapper' calm down some? If you want to know 'stuff'
about Elecraft equipment, this IS the place. If you want to know something about antennas/feed lines, try www.towertalk.com which is the correct place for this PL259 thread in the first place. If you don't know where to look for information, ASK! But just about every time someone says "How do you........" there are typically 30 to 100 responses of 'how I do it', nothing related to Elecraft equipment. I'm sure the Elecraft reflector moderator does not really have the time to stop these type threads every time they get started simply because he is off helping make a company run. Tom - W4BQF (no longer a 'young whippersnapper') -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Frank Precissi Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 12:28 AM To: Elecraft Group Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II < [hidden email]> wrote: > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? Yeah, really. A lot of people take really common stuff for granted, like soldering connectors onto coax. For those of us who don't have decades of experience/mistakes under their belt (and who got their ticket in the era of the internet and pre-made coax), small things like this (which have big impacts) are lost to convenience. For every person like me who freely admits that I dont know the correct way to solder a PL-259 and thought pre-made was 'good enough', there are probably 10 who are too afraid to come forward to admit it. You should be happy that some of us /want/ to make their own coax instead of the premade stuff. Isn't that keeping a little part of the 'real' hobby alive. I'll get off your lawn now. Im just a young whippersnapper. Frank KG6EYC -- CW: NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155 | SOC #1038 | FPQRP #3186 Digital: FHC #4224 | 30MDG #6370 | DMC #5698 Gear: K3 #7164 | KX3 #1787 http://vadept.com ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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On 11/13/2013 6:40 AM, Tommy wrote:
> Hey ya 'young whippersnapper' calm down some? If you want to know 'stuff' > about Elecraft equipment, this IS the place. If you want to know something > about antennas/feed lines, trywww.towertalk.com which is the correct > place for this PL259 thread in the first place. The link you provided is for a R/C hobby store. Try this instead, takes you to the TowerTalk reflector on contesting.com: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk 73, Dennis NJ6G ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by Chester Alderman
On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II < [hidden email]> wrote: > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? Obviously a topic that resonates with many Elecraft users. 73, phil, K7PEH ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Chester Alderman
On Wed, 13 Nov 2013 09:40:02 -0500, Tommy wrote:
> If you want to know something > about antennas/feed lines, try www.towertalk.com which is the correct > place for this PL259 thread in the first place. If you don't know where to > look for information, ASK! Ah! But, just how many of those young (and old) whippersnappers didn't know there could be such a difference between proper and poor PL installation before this topic expanded? There were several. Did it go on way too long? You bet. But that's the way the great Internet works these days, and you and I have extended it just a couple more lines worth. :o) You have to know there is a problem before you can ask how to fix it. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: FW: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by WM3M
My computer has a very special key that I had custom made for me at great
expense. It is labeled "DELETE". I find that I use it quite a lot which makes it worth much more than I paid for it Obviously not very many people have ordered this convenient option. I can offer private instruction on how to get the best use of this marvelous added function if that would make things more pleasant for you.. 73, Charlie k3ICH ----- Original Message ----- From: "WM3M" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 8:46 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's > Yes, > Stupid me, I signed up for wrong email list, I thought this was an > Elecraft > email list? > Not a list for cables, connectors, how to solder...... > Emory WM3M > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II > Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM > To: [hidden email] > Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's > > So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? > > > Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ > > Owner - Operator > Big Signal Ranch > Staunton, Illinois > > email: [hidden email] > > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown > Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM > To: [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's > > On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote: >> They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very > low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or > switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I > have > never been disappointed with their performance. > > I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define > "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what > frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. > > Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, > I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can > think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality > PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and > there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. > > BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable > are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're > a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to > the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the > outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield > migration. > > 73, Jim K9YC > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Proper installation of PL 259's
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In reply to this post by WM3M
I got sick just looking at one of my pl259's...overload
Reggie k6xr On Nov 13, 2013, at 05:46 AM, WM3M <[hidden email]> wrote: Yes, Stupid me, I signed up for wrong email list, I thought this was an Elecraft email list? Not a list for cables, connectors, how to solder...... Emory WM3M -----Original Message----- From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax. Really? Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch Staunton, Illinois email: [hidden email] -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote: They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance. I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define "performance," and please tell us in what application, at what frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance. Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF, I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources. I can think of many better ways to spend $100. The loss through a quality PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them. BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham. They're a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield migration. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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