Prospective K3 Owner

[Joe G]

Well, if all goes well, I will have my K3 by Christmas.  Needless to say, I have begun reading and planning so the building of the kit comes off "without a hitch"

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone could offer.  Specifically,

   - Are there any tools, over and above those mentioned in the assembly manual, that would be helpful

   - Are there any "tricks" at anyy stage of the assembly that anyone has uncovered

   - Is there a need to do any special calibration that might require test equipment

Finally, what is the added value of the high precision oscillator

Joe
W!JGS

--- On Tue, 8/26/08, Joe G <[hidden email]> wrote:
From: Joe G <[hidden email]>
Subject: [Elecraft] Prospective K3 Owner
To: [hidden email]
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 3:09 PM

Well, if all goes well, I will have my K3 by Christmas.  Needless to say, I
have begun reading and planning so the building of the kit comes off
"without a hitch"

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone could offer.  Specifically,

   - Are there any tools, over and above those mentioned in the assembly
manual, that would be helpful

No not really.  I used a set of Jeweler's screw drivers that I had picked
many years ago at Radio Shack.  Most of the standoffs and such can be tighten
with a nut driver (but not too tight).  It is pretty simple build.

   - Are there any "tricks" at anyy stage of the assembly that anyone
has
uncovered

The front panel is a little tricky, but that has been covered on the
reflector many times.  Look it up in the archives.  The fans were a
mystery for me...but then things clicked and I got it done.  It was late
in the evening.

   - Is there a need to do any special calibration that might require test
equipment

I have no special equipment except a DVM.  No Scope.  I have an old
frequency counter but never used it.  I calibrated by WWV and it worked
quite well.  Like tuning a guitar string.

Finally, what is the added value of the high precision oscillator

Dunno.  Did not get one.  I doubt that I would notice parts per million
in the type of operating I do.  If you are doing something that needs that
precision by all means get one...but I just contest and DX.  Workem...logem.

73

Lee - K0WA


Joe
W!JGS

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[drewko]

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:09:04 -0700 (PDT), Joe W!JGS wrote:

>
>   - Are there any tools, over and above those mentioned in the assembly
>manual, that would be helpful
>

Yes, a magnetized screwdriver is very handy for guiding the screws to
their holes without having to fumble with them.  (There are a LOT of
screws!)

Some people pre-sort all the screws. I just dumped them and the
washers into a shallow pan and hunted through them as they were called
out. But do pay close attention to the screw lengths and washer types
specified in the instructions.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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[Robert Brandon-2]

I used a muffin pan to sort out my hardware.  It worked very well.  I didn't
have enough cups to sort everything out, so I pre-sorted the most similar
looking parts (e.g., small black pan heads from small black flat heads).
And I separated out the small number of zinc pan heads of unusual lengths
from the large number of those that were all the same.  

There were quite a few errata in my version of the assembly instructions.
Rather than doing a lot of paper cutting and pasting, I simply used a
highlighter pen to tag sections where I needed to refer to the errata.  

Robert K5PI

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:13 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Prospective K3 Owner

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:09:04 -0700 (PDT), Joe W!JGS wrote:

>
>   - Are there any tools, over and above those mentioned in the assembly
>manual, that would be helpful
>

Yes, a magnetized screwdriver is very handy for guiding the screws to
their holes without having to fumble with them.  (There are a LOT of
screws!)

Some people pre-sort all the screws. I just dumped them and the
washers into a shallow pan and hunted through them as they were called
out. But do pay close attention to the screw lengths and washer types
specified in the instructions.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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[Greg - AB7R]

Drew wrote...

Some people pre-sort all the screws. I just dumped them and the
washers into a shallow pan and hunted through them as they were called
out. But do pay close attention to the screw lengths and washer types
specified in the instructions.

Very good point.  This is especially true when attaching the clear bezel over the
LCD.  Use the wrong length screw and you will likely damage the LCD.  Just take
your time and you will do fine.


-------------------------
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Tue Aug 26 14:13 , [hidden email] sent:

>On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:09:04 -0700 (PDT), Joe W!JGS wrote:
>
>>
>>   - Are there any tools, over and above those mentioned in the assembly
>>manual, that would be helpful
>>
>
>Yes, a magnetized screwdriver is very handy for guiding the screws to
>their holes without having to fumble with them.  (There are a LOT of
>screws!)
>
>Some people pre-sort all the screws. I just dumped them and the
>washers into a shallow pan and hunted through them as they were called
>out. But do pay close attention to the screw lengths and washer types
>specified in the instructions.
>
>73,
>Drew
>AF2Z
>
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[Julian, G4ILO]

Robert Brandon wrote

I used a muffin pan to sort out my hardware.  It worked very well.  I didn't
have enough cups to sort everything out, so I pre-sorted the most similar
looking parts (e.g., small black pan heads from small black flat heads).
And I separated out the small number of zinc pan heads of unusual lengths
from the large number of those that were all the same.  

My XYL started saving egg boxes for me after someone suggested the idea on this reflector. By the time the K3 actually arrived I had almost enough so each screw could have its own compartment. :)

I did find it seriously useful to have labelled compartments for each size of screw, nut etc. They had to be sorted out at the inventory stage, so to mix them back up together and then sort them out again when needed makes no sense to me, and just adds another source of error.

[Barry N1EU]

Joe G wrote

   - Are there any "tricks" at any stage of the assembly that anyone has uncovered

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Kit_Building

73,
Barry N1EU

[AC7AC]

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

[Jim AB3CV]

My useful tool addition was merely a set of fine tweezers. I've got fat
fingers at times (arthritis) and tweezers helped getting washers and screws
into position numerous times.

Otherwise my k3/10 assembly was completely without issues.

I've previously built an ATS3, K2 and other miscellaneous gear and I
completely enjoyed putting the K3 together.

And operating it thus far has been a joy.

73

jim ab3cv

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[NZ0T]

 I just received and built my K3/100 in the last week and overall it is a very easy build especially compared to the K2 which is a true stuff-board-and-solder kit.  I very much echo those above that used egg cartons or some other container to separate the zillions of screws, nuts and washers.  It takes a little time in the beginning but saves a lot during the actual build.  Have as much room as possible as you will have a lot of pieces laying around waiting to be installed and plenty of light too.  A magnetic screwdriver is a must as some of the screw locations can be tight.  Use an anti-static mat and wristband if at all possible as zapping one of the boards would not be a good thing.

Don't drink too much beer - it can spill and make vision blurry

Take your time and have fun.  It's a fantastic rig.  Now if I can only figure out what all those buttons and controls do......

73,
Bill NZ0T

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[.k8dd.-2]

Measure twice, assemble once!

Magnetic screwdrivere is a good idea, too.

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I do not like egg cartons or muffin tins.  These are to big for my work space.  I like plastic ice cube trays.  Dollar Store  Cheap...many slots...can make ice after the build.

Lee
K0WA

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[Rick Dettinger-3]

I use 3 oz. paper cups to keep small parts in.  I can move the one I  
am using to the "front" and as they get emptied, I can remove them  
from the work bench.

Rick Dettinger   K7MW

========================================
On Aug 26, 2008, at 6:40 PM, Lee Buller wrote:

>
> I do not like egg cartons or muffin tins.  These are to big for my  
> work space.  I like plastic ice cube trays.  Dollar Store  
> Cheap...many slots...can make ice after the build.
>
> Lee
> K0WA
>
>

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[Joe Planisky]

After knocking over a muffin tin full of parts more than once, I've  
discovered what works best for me are little reclosable (Ziploc)  
bags.  The ones I like best are called 'snack bags' and are about 1/2  
the size of a regular sandwich bag (6.5" wide x 3.25" high).  There's  
plenty of room, they're see-thru, reusable, and if you knock one off  
the bench most of the parts stay in even if it's not sealed.  A box of  
100 are less than $3.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Aug 26, 2008, at 6:40 PM, Lee Buller wrote:

>
> I do not like egg cartons or muffin tins.  These are to big for my  
> work space.  I like plastic ice cube trays.  Dollar Store  
> Cheap...many slots...can make ice after the build.
>
> Lee
> K0WA
>
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[Alan Bloom]

On Tue, 2008-08-26 at 15:20, Julian, G4ILO wrote:
>
> Robert Brandon wrote:
> >
> > I used a muffin pan to sort out my hardware.
...
> My XYL started saving egg boxes for me after someone suggested the idea on
> this reflector. By the time the K3 actually arrived I had almost enough so
> each screw could have its own compartment. :)

I found egg cartons to be seriously unstable.  I accidentally flipped
them a couple times and had to re-sort all the parts.  Next time I use
the egg carton method I will first nail them to a wood plank base.

Al N1AL




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[gm3sek]

>
>Yes, a magnetized screwdriver is very handy for guiding the screws to
>their holes without having to fumble with them.  (There are a LOT of
>screws!)
>
If in Europe, make sure to use genuine Philips-point screwdrivers. The
more common Pozidriv point will damage the screw slots when tightening.

Anywhere in the world, it's worth buying a new screwdriver for the K3,
because a worn point is the most liable to "cam out" and damage the
screw slots.

Extra-long and extra-short screwdrivers are occasionally useful when
working inside the K3, to get a better angle on the screw head.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK         'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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[Bob-270]

Hi Ian,

           True Pozidriv screws are not that common on this side of the
pond.  But you may not want "genuine Philips" either.  The true Phillips
head screws and drivers are designed to "Cam Out" to prevent over
tightening.    To prevent that there are Reed and Prince or  Frearson
head screws and drivers.  They have a variation in the angle and depth.  
Another that also "looks" like phillips are the JIS standard that again
changes the angles.  Using a new screwdriver may only be a partial
solution, you need to look real close as to which you want and buy and
how they fit. .

             The term phillips has become somewhat generic for any cross
headed screw,  just as any copy is a Xerox.

             There may even be more variations out there.   I don't know
what your old BA stuff was but I'm sure Elecraft isn't using them.

73,
Bob
K2TK

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:

>
>>
>> Yes, a magnetized screwdriver is very handy for guiding the screws to
>> their holes without having to fumble with them.  (There are a LOT of
>> screws!)
>>
> If in Europe, make sure to use genuine Philips-point screwdrivers. The
> more common Pozidriv point will damage the screw slots when tightening.
>
> Anywhere in the world, it's worth buying a new screwdriver for the K3,
> because a worn point is the most liable to "cam out" and damage the
> screw slots.
>
> Extra-long and extra-short screwdrivers are occasionally useful when
> working inside the K3, to get a better angle on the screw head.
>
>

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[Julian, G4ILO]

Ian White GM3SEK wrote

If in Europe, make sure to use genuine Philips-point screwdrivers. The
more common Pozidriv point will damage the screw slots when tightening.

Anywhere in the world, it's worth buying a new screwdriver for the K3,
because a worn point is the most liable to "cam out" and damage the
screw slots.

I assembled my kit using a Phillips screwdriver made about 30 years ago by a firm called Stanley in the UK, in the days when we still used to make stuff. It is made from properly hardened steel, and shows no obvious signs of wear after all those years.

It seems to be impossible nowadays to buy tools of any sort that are not cheap cr*p made in China from poor quality steel that gets chewed up at the first tough job it encounters.

[Julian, G4ILO]

Alan Bloom wrote

I found egg cartons to be seriously unstable.  I accidentally flipped
them a couple times and had to re-sort all the parts.  Next time I use
the egg carton method I will first nail them to a wood plank base.

You could put hard boiled eggs in a couple of the cups. When you have used all the parts you are probably ready for a snack. :)

[Doug Faunt N6TQS [phone]]

   Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 01:25:14 -0700 (PDT)
   From: "Julian, G4ILO" <[hidden email]>

   It seems to be impossible nowadays to buy tools of any sort that are not
   cheap cr*p made in China from poor quality steel that gets chewed up at the
   first tough job it encounters.

Err, Wiha makes anti-cam Phillips drivers that work well.
I got mine from McMaster-Carr.

73, doug

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