Re: Installation of a KXB30 in KX-1 Part 2!!

[thomaskd]

I appreciate all the help on getting the pads to stick better on the KXB30 board. I took care of that and the saga continues.  I  need just a bit more help.

I put the pads on the board and put the radio back together as instructed.  Hooked up the DMM in series with the power and turned it on.  No lights.  Checked the in-line fuse and it was blown. I was not sure if I blew it as a part of this...or earlier.  After not finding any more fuses lying around I ran off to Radio Shack before they closed.  Came back and ran the test with a few fuse...still no lights. The install looked good but the manual indicates that this probably means a short. I decdided that maybe I did not get the board in the exact spot it was supposed to be in and that was causing the short or maybe I did something to them rest of the radio while installing.  So...I clipped all the leads and took the board out and then de-soldered all the connections on the board and on the rest of the radio.  (At least I now have a decent technique for using solder wick).

I put the radio back together how it was before the adventure began and.....no lights!!!! Uh oh.  While looking at it I remembered that the shoulder washer that is installed with the power amplifier transitor had come out during all of this but I had put it back in.  I was sure that it was to keep the transistor from touching the outer case.  I decided to doublecheck the manual.....and of course I was wrong.  It goes between the standoff the the transitor.  Ugh.  Switch it around and put the radio back together...and I have lights!!  But the 30M board is still sitting here and it might have worked if I had put that shoulder washer back in right the first time.

So...now to my question.  Elecraft provides a short piece of solid, insulated hookup wire that is used to fashion the leads to connect the board to the radio.  I only have enough left to make the two short insulated wires (D and 5 I believe) but not the other 5 non-insulated leads that are needed.  

What is acceptable to use?  I have all kinds of other hookup wire but a lot of it is stranded not solid.  I have some that is copper and solid. Any advice on what to use?  I can tell they use this hookup wire for the leads as it need to be a bit flexible to reach from the board to the holes where it is soldered.  


Thanks...and 73 de Keith KB3ILS
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Kieth,

I commonly use component leads that are lying around my workbench.  
Things are a bit easier if you use the longer ones clipped from
capacitors, but most any will do the job.  Yes, use solid wire rather
than stranded so it will support the board.

Since you powered the KX1 on with no shoulder washer under the PA
transistor, check the wide PC trace that runs under resistors R16 and
R17 - it often becomes overheated and will lift from the board when the
12 volts is shorted.  If it has lifted, cut out the lifted portion and
do an appropriate repair with wire - that trace runs next to a via hole
and can short to that via if the copper has lifted.

73,
Don W3FPR


[hidden email] wrote:
> snip...
>
> So...now to my question.  Elecraft provides a short piece of solid, insulated hookup wire that is used to fashion the leads to connect the board to the radio.  I only have enough left to make the two short insulated wires (D and 5 I believe) but not the other 5 non-insulated leads that are needed.  
>
> What is acceptable to use?  I have all kinds of other hookup wire but a lot of it is stranded not solid.  I have some that is copper and solid. Any advice on what to use?  I can tell they use this hookup wire for the leads as it need to be a bit flexible to reach from the board to the holes where it is soldered.  
>
>
>  
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[thomaskd]

Don,

Thanks for the quick response and I was hoping component leads were going to work. I had just cut a few to the appropriate length when your email came in.  I will go ahead and use them.

I will check out the PC trace ASAP.  I did get the radio back together as a 20/40M rig with the shoulder washer in the right place and the lights came on.  Is that a good sign?  When the shoulder washer was misplaced and the power applied, it was for a very short time.  Maybe a second?  As soon as no lights came on, power was removed.  I will take a good look at it under a magnifying glass.

73 de Keith KB3ILS

>>>


Kieth,

I commonly use component leads that are lying around my workbench.  
Things are a bit easier if you use the longer ones clipped from
capacitors, but most any will do the job.  Yes, use solid wire rather
than stranded so it will support the board.

Since you powered the KX1 on with no shoulder washer under the PA
transistor, check the wide PC trace that runs under resistors R16 and
R17 - it often becomes overheated and will lift from the board when the
12 volts is shorted.  If it has lifted, cut out the lifted portion and
do an appropriate repair with wire - that trace runs next to a via hole
and can short to that via if the copper has lifted.

73,
Don W3FPR
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