Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Nick - VE3EY
// When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).

On this topic, maybe I can hijack the thread but it still pertains the P3
functionality.

I also occasionally travel down to Caribbean and operate CQ WW from
places.  I would love to have the pan-adapter handy when faced with
pileups.  Here are some possible benefits:

- You have a visual picture of how large your pile is and it makes it
easier to steer clear from congested areas.
- You have a visual picture of your own TX FQ.  You will know soon enough
once lids start causing trouble on your TX frequency so that evasive
actions can be taken.
- Sometimes there is another pileup going on below or above your
frequency.  If the callers trying to work someone else overlap with your
own,your rate takes a dive as you find yourself answering folks who are
actually not calling you.

In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.

By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom
and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would
be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an option
to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)

73,  Nick
ve3ey





On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 9:59 PM, Rick WA6NHC <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> You're preachin to da choir son.  Fine job though.
>
> K1N was awful for DQRM, lids and untrained idiots.  3G0ZC the next week
> wasn't quite as bad, nor as rare.  E30FB is rough here on the West Coast
> due to lack of signal strength, conditions and the same crowds.  You can't
> hear, what isn't there.
>
> I see that problem cause as twofold:  Lack of noobs seeking an Elmer for
> proper training NOT covered adequately in the classes or tests; Lack of
> folks willing to become an Elmer to guide the newcomers. That's WAY off
> topic for here.
>
> Putting in perspective and back on topic; the P3 was almost totally
> useless for K1N, except to watch and measure the height and width of the
> pileup (there WERE no holes to utilize in that pack).  What you said is
> very true, the subreceiver helped, about as much because of the reasons you
> stated too.  Together however, is still a deadly combination, by watching
> the (group of) signal(s) on the P3 that the DX is working, quickly tuning
> the receiver to the most likely being worked and confirming by ear, they
> allowed me to gain 13 Q's with K1N on a low dipole and some power (it's all
> in the DX pattern recognition, if they're not purposely avoiding a
> pattern).  The other operating style was simply work the edges of the
> pileup, don't be in the middle.
>
> P3 and KRX3 in 'normal' DX collecting... fish:barrel.  They are the sole
> reason I have 250 'entities' in the log over the last couple years.  When
> I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).  Oh yes, the KPA500
> helps, a LOT since I'm on a sole dipole.
>
> I don't see things improving in the ranks, so anyone looking at the
> purchase of the K Line should simply keep the budget open ended and collect
> everything as they can.  P3 first (plan on the SVGA card too, your eyes
> will never improve), then a KRX3, then flesh it out with more.
>
> Let's look at your budget too.  The P3/SVGA combo costs versus the KRX3
> with filters (mine are all filled the same in both, for diversity and to
> minimize what my failing ears are subjected to when listening in two
> places).  Add in that you'll have to replace the Synth card when you add
> the KRX3 (or obtain two used ones, storing the new one for later, but why)
> and I suspect that financially as well, the P3/SVGA will be more reachable
> first.
>
> That's my best reasoning for the P3 and why it should be first. It's the
> better of the two choices and it's more financially obtainable.
>
> Whatever you choose, good luck and good hunting.
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
>
> On 3/9/2015 6:02 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
>
>> I would agree that the P3 should probably take priority over the
>> Subreceiver for a new buy, mostly due to the many different things it can
>> do for you. But... my experience this weekend trying to work E30FB on 20 CW
>> sure made me glad I had the Sub. I would never have worked them using just
>> the scope.
>>
>> Problem is, it seems the way people try to work DX these days makes it
>> virtually impossible to depend on a visual cue to know who's being worked
>> by the DX if there's a pileup of any size at all. E30FB had the pile spread
>> out for better than 20 kHz, and the scope showed a constant morass of
>> signals all across the entire span. Aside from the obliviots who
>> continually send their call whether the DX is listening or not, there are
>> many who apparently see nothing wrong with coming back or continuing to
>> call when the DX operator replies to a call that obviously isn't theirs.
>> Every time E30FB would answer a complete call there were dozens of
>> perfectly timed signals that jumped up all across the extent of the pileup.
>> Luckily, using the second receiver I managed to stumble on to one that
>> turned out to actually be the guy he was working. A minute or two of
>> careful listening around that frequency revealed the operator's tuning
>> pattern, and after just a couple of calls I was in the log too.
>>
>> If you really want to work rare DX these days you're going to NEED the
>> second receiver. This isn't due to any problems with the capabilities of
>> the P3 -- it's the result of operating practices that continue to
>> deteriorate. You'll need all the tools you can get and all the cunning you
>> can muster to work DX through the Doofus curtain these days.
>>
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Jim Brown-10
On Tue,3/10/2015 9:45 AM, Nick - VE3EY wrote:
> In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
> carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.

K6XX used the void space in the P3 to carry hand tools to WRTC in Russia.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Wes (N7WS)
Lyle, KK7P, demoed a pre-production P3 to our DX club.  When I picked it up I
told him Elecraft better put a steel plate inside if they wanted to get that
much money for so little weight.



On 3/10/2015 10:06 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> K6XX used the void space in the P3 to carry hand tools to WRTC in Russia.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Nick - VE3EY
In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10
I know but I can't fit my laptop,  Samplex PSU or BigIR control box in it.
  Just maybe some cables.    These days airlines only allow one carry-on
bag.

Of course each requirement is different.  The only reason I brought this
forward is because it sounded 'simple' enough to manufacture smaller sets
of panels.

73,  Nick
ve3ey



On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 1:06 PM, Jim Brown <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> On Tue,3/10/2015 9:45 AM, Nick - VE3EY wrote:
>
>> In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
>> carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.
>>
>
> K6XX used the void space in the P3 to carry hand tools to WRTC in Russia.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Mike K2MK
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
Hi Nick,

A P3 was cut in half by Jeff WA6KBL for Andy AE6Y three years ago. You can see the photos here.

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=8644c503bb79157c&sid=1AbNmTlw1aMWFU

You can read the post here:
http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg132635.html

73,
Mike K2MK

Nick-VE3EY wrote
partial quote

By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom
and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would
be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an option
to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)

73,  Nick
ve3ey
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Don Butler
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
I find both the K3 subreceiver and P3 very helpful in cracking DX pileups.
Without the subreceiver it's really not that big of a deal to toggle back
and forth between VFOs to monitor the pileup, but it's still much better
when the subreceiver is available and turned on with a wide filter setting.
I find myself "watching" the pileup much more than "listening" to it
nowadays, so I'd definitely pick the panapter first if I had to choose one
option only.

I posted a link to a similar video a few weeks ago, but this 10 minute video
is different and shows how I was able to continuously find K1N's listening
frequency while he was working a 20+ KC wide pileup  .... and when he
started getting louder to me I fired up my amp and worked him with just a
few calls.  Take  a Look:

https://vimeo.com/119076467/settings

Don, N5LZ


-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Nick -
VE3EY
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:46 AM
To: Rick WA6NHC
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

// When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).

On this topic, maybe I can hijack the thread but it still pertains the P3
functionality.

I also occasionally travel down to Caribbean and operate CQ WW from places.
I would love to have the pan-adapter handy when faced with pileups.  Here
are some possible benefits:

- You have a visual picture of how large your pile is and it makes it easier
to steer clear from congested areas.
- You have a visual picture of your own TX FQ.  You will know soon enough
once lids start causing trouble on your TX frequency so that evasive actions
can be taken.
- Sometimes there is another pileup going on below or above your frequency.
If the callers trying to work someone else overlap with your own,your rate
takes a dive as you find yourself answering folks who are actually not
calling you.

In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.

By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we can significantly shrink
the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom and Side panels (E100362,
E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would be willing to manufacture
and provide such kit.  We always have an option to use the hacksaw but it
would not look pretty :-)

73,  Nick
ve3ey





On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 9:59 PM, Rick WA6NHC <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> You're preachin to da choir son.  Fine job though.
>
> K1N was awful for DQRM, lids and untrained idiots.  3G0ZC the next
> week wasn't quite as bad, nor as rare.  E30FB is rough here on the
> West Coast due to lack of signal strength, conditions and the same
> crowds.  You can't hear, what isn't there.
>
> I see that problem cause as twofold:  Lack of noobs seeking an Elmer
> for proper training NOT covered adequately in the classes or tests;
> Lack of folks willing to become an Elmer to guide the newcomers.
> That's WAY off topic for here.
>
> Putting in perspective and back on topic; the P3 was almost totally
> useless for K1N, except to watch and measure the height and width of
> the pileup (there WERE no holes to utilize in that pack).  What you
> said is very true, the subreceiver helped, about as much because of
> the reasons you stated too.  Together however, is still a deadly
> combination, by watching the (group of) signal(s) on the P3 that the
> DX is working, quickly tuning the receiver to the most likely being
> worked and confirming by ear, they allowed me to gain 13 Q's with K1N
> on a low dipole and some power (it's all in the DX pattern
> recognition, if they're not purposely avoiding a pattern).  The other
> operating style was simply work the edges of the pileup, don't be in the
middle.

>
> P3 and KRX3 in 'normal' DX collecting... fish:barrel.  They are the
> sole reason I have 250 'entities' in the log over the last couple
> years.  When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).  Oh
> yes, the KPA500 helps, a LOT since I'm on a sole dipole.
>
> I don't see things improving in the ranks, so anyone looking at the
> purchase of the K Line should simply keep the budget open ended and
> collect everything as they can.  P3 first (plan on the SVGA card too,
> your eyes will never improve), then a KRX3, then flesh it out with more.
>
> Let's look at your budget too.  The P3/SVGA combo costs versus the
> KRX3 with filters (mine are all filled the same in both, for diversity
> and to minimize what my failing ears are subjected to when listening
> in two places).  Add in that you'll have to replace the Synth card
> when you add the KRX3 (or obtain two used ones, storing the new one
> for later, but why) and I suspect that financially as well, the
> P3/SVGA will be more reachable first.
>
> That's my best reasoning for the P3 and why it should be first. It's
> the better of the two choices and it's more financially obtainable.
>
> Whatever you choose, good luck and good hunting.
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
>
> On 3/9/2015 6:02 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
>
>> I would agree that the P3 should probably take priority over the
>> Subreceiver for a new buy, mostly due to the many different things it
>> can do for you. But... my experience this weekend trying to work
>> E30FB on 20 CW sure made me glad I had the Sub. I would never have
>> worked them using just the scope.
>>
>> Problem is, it seems the way people try to work DX these days makes
>> it virtually impossible to depend on a visual cue to know who's being
>> worked by the DX if there's a pileup of any size at all. E30FB had
>> the pile spread out for better than 20 kHz, and the scope showed a
>> constant morass of signals all across the entire span. Aside from the
>> obliviots who continually send their call whether the DX is listening
>> or not, there are many who apparently see nothing wrong with coming
>> back or continuing to call when the DX operator replies to a call that
obviously isn't theirs.
>> Every time E30FB would answer a complete call there were dozens of
>> perfectly timed signals that jumped up all across the extent of the
pileup.
>> Luckily, using the second receiver I managed to stumble on to one
>> that turned out to actually be the guy he was working. A minute or
>> two of careful listening around that frequency revealed the
>> operator's tuning pattern, and after just a couple of calls I was in the
log too.
>>
>> If you really want to work rare DX these days you're going to NEED
>> the second receiver. This isn't due to any problems with the
>> capabilities of the P3 -- it's the result of operating practices that
>> continue to deteriorate. You'll need all the tools you can get and
>> all the cunning you can muster to work DX through the Doofus curtain
these days.

>>
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this
>> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
>> [hidden email]
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> [hidden email]
>
______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to [hidden email]

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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Don Butler
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
I apologize ...but sent the wrong link in previous email.  This is the link
to show monitoring the K1N pileup with KRX3 and P3:

https://vimeo.com/119076467

Don, N5LZ


-----Original Message-----
From: Don Butler [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 12:26 PM
To: 'Nick - VE3EY'; 'Rick WA6NHC'
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

I find both the K3 subreceiver and P3 very helpful in cracking DX pileups.
Without the subreceiver it's really not that big of a deal to toggle back
and forth between VFOs to monitor the pileup, but it's still much better
when the subreceiver is available and turned on with a wide filter setting.
I find myself "watching" the pileup much more than "listening" to it
nowadays, so I'd definitely pick the panapter first if I had to choose one
option only.

I posted a link to a similar video a few weeks ago, but this 10 minute video
is different and shows how I was able to continuously find K1N's listening
frequency while he was working a 20+ KC wide pileup  .... and when he
started getting louder to me I fired up my amp and worked him with just a
few calls.  Take  a Look:

https://vimeo.com/119076467/settings

Don, N5LZ


-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Nick -
VE3EY
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:46 AM
To: Rick WA6NHC
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

// When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).

On this topic, maybe I can hijack the thread but it still pertains the P3
functionality.

I also occasionally travel down to Caribbean and operate CQ WW from places.
I would love to have the pan-adapter handy when faced with pileups.  Here
are some possible benefits:

- You have a visual picture of how large your pile is and it makes it easier
to steer clear from congested areas.
- You have a visual picture of your own TX FQ.  You will know soon enough
once lids start causing trouble on your TX frequency so that evasive actions
can be taken.
- Sometimes there is another pileup going on below or above your frequency.
If the callers trying to work someone else overlap with your own,your rate
takes a dive as you find yourself answering folks who are actually not
calling you.

In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.

By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we can significantly shrink
the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom and Side panels (E100362,
E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would be willing to manufacture
and provide such kit.  We always have an option to use the hacksaw but it
would not look pretty :-)

73,  Nick
ve3ey





On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 9:59 PM, Rick WA6NHC <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> You're preachin to da choir son.  Fine job though.
>
> K1N was awful for DQRM, lids and untrained idiots.  3G0ZC the next
> week wasn't quite as bad, nor as rare.  E30FB is rough here on the
> West Coast due to lack of signal strength, conditions and the same
> crowds.  You can't hear, what isn't there.
>
> I see that problem cause as twofold:  Lack of noobs seeking an Elmer
> for proper training NOT covered adequately in the classes or tests;
> Lack of folks willing to become an Elmer to guide the newcomers.
> That's WAY off topic for here.
>
> Putting in perspective and back on topic; the P3 was almost totally
> useless for K1N, except to watch and measure the height and width of
> the pileup (there WERE no holes to utilize in that pack).  What you
> said is very true, the subreceiver helped, about as much because of
> the reasons you stated too.  Together however, is still a deadly
> combination, by watching the (group of) signal(s) on the P3 that the
> DX is working, quickly tuning the receiver to the most likely being
> worked and confirming by ear, they allowed me to gain 13 Q's with K1N
> on a low dipole and some power (it's all in the DX pattern
> recognition, if they're not purposely avoiding a pattern).  The other
> operating style was simply work the edges of the pileup, don't be in the
middle.

>
> P3 and KRX3 in 'normal' DX collecting... fish:barrel.  They are the
> sole reason I have 250 'entities' in the log over the last couple
> years.  When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).  Oh
> yes, the KPA500 helps, a LOT since I'm on a sole dipole.
>
> I don't see things improving in the ranks, so anyone looking at the
> purchase of the K Line should simply keep the budget open ended and
> collect everything as they can.  P3 first (plan on the SVGA card too,
> your eyes will never improve), then a KRX3, then flesh it out with more.
>
> Let's look at your budget too.  The P3/SVGA combo costs versus the
> KRX3 with filters (mine are all filled the same in both, for diversity
> and to minimize what my failing ears are subjected to when listening
> in two places).  Add in that you'll have to replace the Synth card
> when you add the KRX3 (or obtain two used ones, storing the new one
> for later, but why) and I suspect that financially as well, the
> P3/SVGA will be more reachable first.
>
> That's my best reasoning for the P3 and why it should be first. It's
> the better of the two choices and it's more financially obtainable.
>
> Whatever you choose, good luck and good hunting.
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
>
> On 3/9/2015 6:02 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
>
>> I would agree that the P3 should probably take priority over the
>> Subreceiver for a new buy, mostly due to the many different things it
>> can do for you. But... my experience this weekend trying to work
>> E30FB on 20 CW sure made me glad I had the Sub. I would never have
>> worked them using just the scope.
>>
>> Problem is, it seems the way people try to work DX these days makes
>> it virtually impossible to depend on a visual cue to know who's being
>> worked by the DX if there's a pileup of any size at all. E30FB had
>> the pile spread out for better than 20 kHz, and the scope showed a
>> constant morass of signals all across the entire span. Aside from the
>> obliviots who continually send their call whether the DX is listening
>> or not, there are many who apparently see nothing wrong with coming
>> back or continuing to call when the DX operator replies to a call that
obviously isn't theirs.
>> Every time E30FB would answer a complete call there were dozens of
>> perfectly timed signals that jumped up all across the extent of the
pileup.
>> Luckily, using the second receiver I managed to stumble on to one
>> that turned out to actually be the guy he was working. A minute or
>> two of careful listening around that frequency revealed the
>> operator's tuning pattern, and after just a couple of calls I was in the
log too.
>>
>> If you really want to work rare DX these days you're going to NEED
>> the second receiver. This isn't due to any problems with the
>> capabilities of the P3 -- it's the result of operating practices that
>> continue to deteriorate. You'll need all the tools you can get and
>> all the cunning you can muster to work DX through the Doofus curtain
these days.

>>
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Arie Kleingeld PA3A-2
Yep,
That's how to do it. Followed the same strategy here and worked him 21 up.

73,
Arie PA3A

Don Butler schreef op 10-3-2015 om 19:31:
> I apologize ...but sent the wrong link in previous email.  This is the link
> to show monitoring the K1N pileup with KRX3 and P3:
>
> https://vimeo.com/119076467
>
> Don, N5LZ
>
>

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Chris Tate - N6WM
In reply to this post by Mike K2MK
I think there may be some technical issues with shrinking it down.. maybe just in half is ok but I recall some potential visual artifacts if the ribbon cable gets too close to the display...  its been a couple years since I build one but I seen to recall...?  it may be a bit more complex than just a smaller box...  but I am sure those types of things could be easily worked out.

Chris N6WM
________________________________________
From: Elecraft [[hidden email]] on behalf of Mike K2MK [[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:11 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Hi Nick,

A P3 was cut in half by Jeff WA6KBL for Andy AE6Y three years ago. You can
see the photos here.

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=8644c503bb79157c&sid=1AbNmTlw1aMWFU

You can read the post here:
http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg132635.html

73,
Mike K2MK


Nick-VE3EY wrote

> partial quote
>
> By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
> can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom
> and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would
> be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an option
> to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)
>
> 73,  Nick
> ve3ey





--
View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Mini-P3-v-SubRX-tp7600071p7600080.html
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Elecraft mailing list
In reply to this post by Wes (N7WS)
You could always put a block  or bag of lead inside


      From: Wes (N7WS) <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 1:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
   
Lyle, KK7P, demoed a pre-production P3 to our DX club.  When I picked it up I
told him Elecraft better put a steel plate inside if they wanted to get that
much money for so little weight.



On 3/10/2015 10:06 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> K6XX used the void space in the P3 to carry hand tools to WRTC in Russia.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

k6dgw
in the mid-50's two youngish teenagers with new General licenses decided
to build a puzzle for the next radio club meeting.  It consisted of two
of those Bud aluminum boxes.  Box 1 had a cord to plug into the wall,
two switches, and two single wires coming from each end.  It weighed
about 1/4 of a brick.

The two single wires went into the ends of Box 2 which had two #47 dial
lamps poking through rubber grommets on top.  It weighed almost nothing.
  Plugged in, Switch 1 turned Lamp 1 on and off, Switch 2 turned Lamp 2
on and off.  We hacked 1/4 of a brick off and put it inside Box 2 with
duct tape.

You could have both lamps off, one or the other on, or both on, however
binary arithmetic had not yet arrived in Los Angeles and we failed to
sense the significance of that.  Convinced we were going to stump
everyone at the meeting, we brought it out during the coffee break
before the raffle.  None of our teen friends could figure it out. The
OT's remained silent but smiled a lot.

We finally said we'd give them a hint.  "Box 1 contains a transformer,
two switches and two solid state diodes," just then coming onto the
market.  "Box 2 contain two more diodes, two lamps, and 1/4 of a brick."
  Still no one could draw the circuit, so Terry did for them.  They
asked, "What's the 1/4 of a brick for?"  Terry said, "To make it seem
substantial."

Rather than put a brick inside my P3, I put two little squares of
double-stick automobile moulding tape under the two front feet to keep
it planted on the shelf.  While I'd like to think Elecraft has a whole
bunch of cool electronics and features to make use of all that empty
space about to be released, I suspect it is as long as it is so it would
keep the K-Line symmetric when lined up on the desk.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

On 3/10/2015 4:14 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

> You could always put a block  or bag of lead inside
>
>
>        From: Wes (N7WS) <[hidden email]>
>   To: [hidden email]
>   Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 1:39 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
>
> Lyle, KK7P, demoed a pre-production P3 to our DX club.  When I picked it up I
> told him Elecraft better put a steel plate inside if they wanted to get that
> much money for so little weight.
>
>
>
> On 3/10/2015 10:06 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> K6XX used the void space in the P3 to carry hand tools to WRTC in Russia.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Alan Bloom
In reply to this post by Wes (N7WS)
On 03/10/2015 10:39 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
> Lyle, KK7P, demoed a pre-production P3 to our DX club.  When I picked it
> up I told him Elecraft better put a steel plate inside if they wanted to
> get that much money for so little weight.
>

Basically that's what we did.  The original prototypes were made with an
aluminum chassis but it was so light it would slide on the table when
you pushed a button.  So we changed to a steel chassis to make it
heavier.  :=)

Alan N1AL

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Alan Bloom
In reply to this post by Chris Tate - N6WM
On 03/10/2015 12:21 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:
> I think there may be some technical issues with shrinking it down..
> maybe just in half is ok but I recall some potential visual artifacts
> if the ribbon cable gets too close to the display...

It wouldn't be hard to shorten the ribbon cable.  If you're careful you
could remove and re-use one of the connectors, install it near the
other, and cut off the excess cable.

Alan N1AL
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

w7aqk
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
Hi All,

That modified (cut down) version of the P3 by WA6KBL is quite intriguing.
Someone else has suggested that doing this could cause some interference
action with the display, which is too bad if it is true.  It seems to me
that, since the PX3 works fine in a smaller enclosure, why wouldn't the P3
work O.K. as well?  Personally, I wish the P3 had less bulk, particularly
since it seems excessive and clumsy.  I know the P3's dimensions were
determined, at least in part, to correlate to the K3's dimensions.  However,
so much wasted space would be nice to eliminate if possible.

Some time back, a friend of mine was casually asked whether he and his wife
did much cooking at home.  After a brief pause, my friend's tongue in cheek
response was that "We store very valuable documents in our oven!"  That's
sort of how I felt about my old Orion II, which is (in my view) enormously
oversized, and takes up a lot of desk space.  There is a lot of empty space
inside.  Same goes for the P3 I now have.  The width and height are fine,
which accommodates the display size, but the depth is seemingly excessive,
and not by just a little bit.  I suppose some would say that the additional
room you might gain by having a reduced sized P3 would just be dead space
anyway.  However, I think a smaller version would add significantly to the
portability and handling ease of the unit without any sacrifice in
utilization--assuming the interference concerns are unfounded.  Even the
modified version by WA6KBL doesn't cause things inside to seemingly be
cramped.

I've traveled with my K3 several times, but I have never taken the P3 along,
and mainly because I thought it was just too much additional bulk.  I might
feel differently if my P3 was more in line size wise with the WA6KBL
version.  So, if Elecraft feels they could offer a modified enclosure kit,
I, for one, very well might be interested.  It looks to me like it might
just be a matter of providing shortened top, bottom, and side plates.  The
back plate could be preserved.  Would this be all that expensive or
problematic to do???

Dave W7AQK


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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Charlie T, K3ICH
As long as we're on the "shrinking" of the P3 subject.  I would always have
preferred a P3/VGA only!  That is, one as small as possible with the ability
to drive and external monitor but containing NO display itself.   I hardly
EVER look at the P3, unless it's to set a parameter.  I have an old 15"
leftover PC monitor that it just perfect for the outboard display.  I find
that it's my go-to set-up since it's up and running in a second with just
two button pushes. (K3 and monitor).

73, Charlie k3ICH


----- Original Message -----
From: "dyarnes" <[hidden email]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX


> Hi All,
>
> That modified (cut down) version of the P3 by WA6KBL is quite intriguing.
> Someone else has suggested that doing this could cause some interference
> action with the display, which is too bad if it is true.  It seems to me
> that, since the PX3 works fine in a smaller enclosure, why wouldn't the P3
> work O.K. as well?  Personally, I wish the P3 had less bulk, particularly
> since it seems excessive and clumsy.  I know the P3's dimensions were
> determined, at least in part, to correlate to the K3's dimensions.
> However, so much wasted space would be nice to eliminate if possible.
>
>

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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Phil Wheeler-2
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
Hmm .. this discussion makes me wonder if there'd
be a way (for some $$) to make a PX3 work with a
K3. It's smaller than the P3 and has that Elecraft
look :-)

Phil W7OX

On 3/10/15 5:53 PM, Alan wrote:

> On 03/10/2015 10:39 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
>> Lyle, KK7P, demoed a pre-production P3 to our
>> DX club.  When I picked it
>> up I told him Elecraft better put a steel plate
>> inside if they wanted to
>> get that much money for so little weight.
>>
>
> Basically that's what we did.  The original
> prototypes were made with an aluminum chassis
> but it was so light it would slide on the table
> when you pushed a button.  So we changed to a
> steel chassis to make it heavier.  :=)
>
> Alan N1AL



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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Andy Faber
In reply to this post by Chris Tate - N6WM
Chris,
As the owner of the subject shrunken P3, I can testify that there are no
adverse effects on performance.  I just brought it back from yet another
trip to Aruba, and it really is helpful to have it half-sized.
  73, Andy, AE6Y

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris Tate - N6WM" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 12:21 PM
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

> I think there may be some technical issues with shrinking it down.. maybe
> just in half is ok but I recall some potential visual artifacts if the
> ribbon cable gets too close to the display...  its been a couple years
> since I build one but I seen to recall...?  it may be a bit more complex
> than just a smaller box...  but I am sure those types of things could be
> easily worked out.
>
> Chris N6WM
> ________________________________________
> From: Elecraft [[hidden email]] on behalf of Mike K2MK
> [[hidden email]]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
>
> Hi Nick,
>
> A P3 was cut in half by Jeff WA6KBL for Andy AE6Y three years ago. You can
> see the photos here.
>
> http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=8644c503bb79157c&sid=1AbNmTlw1aMWFU
>
> You can read the post here:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg132635.html
>
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
>
>
> Nick-VE3EY wrote
>> partial quote
>>
>> By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
>> can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom
>> and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would
>> be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an option
>> to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)
>>
>> 73,  Nick
>> ve3ey
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Mini-P3-v-SubRX-tp7600071p7600080.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

charlie carroll
Back in November, I made a trip to St. Croix for CQWW CW (NP2X).  K5KG
had brought along his K3/P3 combo for use as the multiplier station.  I
really liked the utility afforded by the P3 when hunting mults.

I just returned from my VP2MLL operation this past weekend.  There is no
doubt in my mind now that a P3 would have helped immensely as I changed
from band to band and with what little S&P I did.

Shrink it down and make it more friendly to carry for DXpedition and
contest use.

73 charlie, k1xx

On 3/11/2015 12:17 AM, Andy Faber wrote:

> Chris,
> As the owner of the subject shrunken P3, I can testify that there are
> no adverse effects on performance.  I just brought it back from yet
> another trip to Aruba, and it really is helpful to have it half-sized.
>  73, Andy, AE6Y
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Chris Tate - N6WM" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 12:21 PM
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
>
>> I think there may be some technical issues with shrinking it down..
>> maybe just in half is ok but I recall some potential visual artifacts
>> if the ribbon cable gets too close to the display...  its been a
>> couple years since I build one but I seen to recall...?  it may be a
>> bit more complex than just a smaller box...  but I am sure those
>> types of things could be easily worked out.
>>
>> Chris N6WM
>> ________________________________________
>> From: Elecraft [[hidden email]] on behalf of Mike
>> K2MK [[hidden email]]
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:11 AM
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
>>
>> Hi Nick,
>>
>> A P3 was cut in half by Jeff WA6KBL for Andy AE6Y three years ago.
>> You can
>> see the photos here.
>>
>> http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=8644c503bb79157c&sid=1AbNmTlw1aMWFU
>>
>>
>> You can read the post here:
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg132635.html
>>
>> 73,
>> Mike K2MK
>>
>>
>> Nick-VE3EY wrote
>>> partial quote
>>>
>>> By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
>>> can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top,
>>> Bottom
>>> and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft
>>> would
>>> be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an
>>> option
>>> to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)
>>>
>>> 73,  Nick
>>> ve3ey
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Mini-P3-v-SubRX-tp7600071p7600080.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
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>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Chris Tate - N6WM
In reply to this post by Andy Faber
Thats awesome Andy.  I think there was a portion of the instructions having to do with a plastic clip and keeping the ribbon away from the display.. I am glad it all worked out for you.  I have put together a KX3/KXPA100 and soon PX3 setup for my next venture to CE3 but admittedly I would be more comfortable with a K3/P3 combo and totally think it was very innovative how you did that.  FB. and nice craft work!

Chris
N6WM
________________________________________
From: Andy Faber [[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 9:17 PM
To: Chris Tate - N6WM; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

Chris,
As the owner of the subject shrunken P3, I can testify that there are no
adverse effects on performance.  I just brought it back from yet another
trip to Aruba, and it really is helpful to have it half-sized.
  73, Andy, AE6Y

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris Tate - N6WM" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 12:21 PM
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

> I think there may be some technical issues with shrinking it down.. maybe
> just in half is ok but I recall some potential visual artifacts if the
> ribbon cable gets too close to the display...  its been a couple years
> since I build one but I seen to recall...?  it may be a bit more complex
> than just a smaller box...  but I am sure those types of things could be
> easily worked out.
>
> Chris N6WM
> ________________________________________
> From: Elecraft [[hidden email]] on behalf of Mike K2MK
> [[hidden email]]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX
>
> Hi Nick,
>
> A P3 was cut in half by Jeff WA6KBL for Andy AE6Y three years ago. You can
> see the photos here.
>
> http://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=8644c503bb79157c&sid=1AbNmTlw1aMWFU
>
> You can read the post here:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg132635.html
>
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
>
>
> Nick-VE3EY wrote
>> partial quote
>>
>> By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we
>> can significantly shrink the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom
>> and Side panels (E100362, E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would
>> be willing to manufacture and provide such kit.  We always have an option
>> to use the hacksaw but it would not look pretty :-)
>>
>> 73,  Nick
>> ve3ey
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Mini-P3-v-SubRX-tp7600071p7600080.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: (Mini)P3 v SubRX

N2TK
In reply to this post by Nick - VE3EY
I sure would like to see a shrunken P3 when I head to the islands too.
Maybe a kit with panels shorter ribbon cable?
73,
N2TK, Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Nick -
VE3EY
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 12:46 PM
To: Rick WA6NHC
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Mini)P3 v SubRX

// When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).

On this topic, maybe I can hijack the thread but it still pertains the P3
functionality.

I also occasionally travel down to Caribbean and operate CQ WW from places.
I would love to have the pan-adapter handy when faced with pileups.  Here
are some possible benefits:

- You have a visual picture of how large your pile is and it makes it easier
to steer clear from congested areas.
- You have a visual picture of your own TX FQ.  You will know soon enough
once lids start causing trouble on your TX frequency so that evasive actions
can be taken.
- Sometimes there is another pileup going on below or above your frequency.
If the callers trying to work someone else overlap with your own,your rate
takes a dive as you find yourself answering folks who are actually not
calling you.

In my case, P3 is too big (volume-wise) and there is no space to fit it in
carry on suitcase along with K3, PSU, Cables, Laptop, Keyer etc.

By looking at parts list from P3 manual, perhaps we can significantly shrink
the depth of the unit by making the Top, Bottom and Side panels (E100362,
E100363, and E100361) shorter if Elecraft would be willing to manufacture
and provide such kit.  We always have an option to use the hacksaw but it
would not look pretty :-)

73,  Nick
ve3ey





On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 9:59 PM, Rick WA6NHC <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> You're preachin to da choir son.  Fine job though.
>
> K1N was awful for DQRM, lids and untrained idiots.  3G0ZC the next
> week wasn't quite as bad, nor as rare.  E30FB is rough here on the
> West Coast due to lack of signal strength, conditions and the same
> crowds.  You can't hear, what isn't there.
>
> I see that problem cause as twofold:  Lack of noobs seeking an Elmer
> for proper training NOT covered adequately in the classes or tests;
> Lack of folks willing to become an Elmer to guide the newcomers.
> That's WAY off topic for here.
>
> Putting in perspective and back on topic; the P3 was almost totally
> useless for K1N, except to watch and measure the height and width of
> the pileup (there WERE no holes to utilize in that pack).  What you
> said is very true, the subreceiver helped, about as much because of
> the reasons you stated too.  Together however, is still a deadly
> combination, by watching the (group of) signal(s) on the P3 that the
> DX is working, quickly tuning the receiver to the most likely being
> worked and confirming by ear, they allowed me to gain 13 Q's with K1N
> on a low dipole and some power (it's all in the DX pattern
> recognition, if they're not purposely avoiding a pattern).  The other
> operating style was simply work the edges of the pileup, don't be in the
middle.

>
> P3 and KRX3 in 'normal' DX collecting... fish:barrel.  They are the
> sole reason I have 250 'entities' in the log over the last couple
> years.  When I'm not traveling, I DX (sometimes I *am* the DX).  Oh
> yes, the KPA500 helps, a LOT since I'm on a sole dipole.
>
> I don't see things improving in the ranks, so anyone looking at the
> purchase of the K Line should simply keep the budget open ended and
> collect everything as they can.  P3 first (plan on the SVGA card too,
> your eyes will never improve), then a KRX3, then flesh it out with more.
>
> Let's look at your budget too.  The P3/SVGA combo costs versus the
> KRX3 with filters (mine are all filled the same in both, for diversity
> and to minimize what my failing ears are subjected to when listening
> in two places).  Add in that you'll have to replace the Synth card
> when you add the KRX3 (or obtain two used ones, storing the new one
> for later, but why) and I suspect that financially as well, the
> P3/SVGA will be more reachable first.
>
> That's my best reasoning for the P3 and why it should be first. It's
> the better of the two choices and it's more financially obtainable.
>
> Whatever you choose, good luck and good hunting.
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
>
> On 3/9/2015 6:02 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
>
>> I would agree that the P3 should probably take priority over the
>> Subreceiver for a new buy, mostly due to the many different things it
>> can do for you. But... my experience this weekend trying to work
>> E30FB on 20 CW sure made me glad I had the Sub. I would never have
>> worked them using just the scope.
>>
>> Problem is, it seems the way people try to work DX these days makes
>> it virtually impossible to depend on a visual cue to know who's being
>> worked by the DX if there's a pileup of any size at all. E30FB had
>> the pile spread out for better than 20 kHz, and the scope showed a
>> constant morass of signals all across the entire span. Aside from the
>> obliviots who continually send their call whether the DX is listening
>> or not, there are many who apparently see nothing wrong with coming
>> back or continuing to call when the DX operator replies to a call that
obviously isn't theirs.
>> Every time E30FB would answer a complete call there were dozens of
>> perfectly timed signals that jumped up all across the extent of the
pileup.
>> Luckily, using the second receiver I managed to stumble on to one
>> that turned out to actually be the guy he was working. A minute or
>> two of careful listening around that frequency revealed the
>> operator's tuning pattern, and after just a couple of calls I was in the
log too.
>>
>> If you really want to work rare DX these days you're going to NEED
>> the second receiver. This isn't due to any problems with the
>> capabilities of the P3 -- it's the result of operating practices that
>> continue to deteriorate. You'll need all the tools you can get and
>> all the cunning you can muster to work DX through the Doofus curtain
these days.

>>
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
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