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Thank you I will try that. I'm looking at options for another plug (more durable) and a switch to turn the speaker on and off manually as well.
Scotty/NU0S Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Gary Surrency <[hidden email]> wrote: If you bridge the terminals of the headphone switch, you can see if the speaker then works. They are the ones on the rear of the switch when you have the bottom cover removed. If that works, you will need to replace the switch if you want to be able to go back and forth between the headphones and speaker at will. Or just leave the jumper there for now. -- 73, Gary AB7MY ========= [hidden email] Elecraft Technical Support On 10/7/2013 11:46 AM, Scotty Long wrote: > Completed all trouble shooting as directed including hammer tap of > switch. No good. > > /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/ > > > Gary Surrency <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Try reheating the headphone jack connections. Also try testing its > switch with an ohmmeter as I mentioned. > > > -- > 73, Gary AB7MY > > ========= > [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]> > Elecraft Technical Support > > On 10/7/2013 10:04 AM, Scotty Long wrote: >> Very good the speaker and mini connector and pins all check good. >> >> /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/ >> >> >> Gary Surrency <[hidden email]> <mailto:[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> Be sure the speaker wires, speaker, and the contacts of the 2 pin >> speaker connector all check OK using an ohmmeter. (less than 5 ohms >> is normal for the speaker voice coil) >> >> If that is OK, then the problem may be a bad headphone jack. >> >> There is a little SPDT switch clipped on the rear of the jack that >> turns the speaker off when a headphone plug is inserted. The external >> speaker jack on the back of the top cover also has a switch that can >> prevent the internal speaker from working. Check to see its contacts >> are normally closed using an ohmmeter. These are the 3 pins on the >> rear of the jack, with the center pin being the common terminal of >> the SPDT sliding contacts inside the switch of the jack. >> >> Be gentle when inserting or removing the headphone plug, and do not >> use a straight 1/4" to 1/8" plug adapter directly at the jack. Use an >> adapter (if necessary) that has a short pigtail to keep leverage and >> stress off of the jack. >> >> When removing the old jack, it is generally easier to heat each pin >> in succession, as you gently pry upward on the jack near that pin. >> After some repetition, the jack will begin to ease out without damage >> to the PCB. You can then use desoldering braid or a vacuum >> desoldering tool (preferably) to clean out the holes to install the >> new jack. >> -- >> 73, Gary AB7MY >> >> ========= >> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]> >> Elecraft Technical Support >> >> On 10/5/2013 6:26 PM, Scotty Long wrote: >>> >>> /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/ >>> >>> >>> -------- Original Message -------- >>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 s/n. 3206 >>> From: Scotty Long <[hidden email]> <mailto:[hidden email]> >>> To: [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]> >>> CC: >>> >>> Put all back together less the tuner now internal speaker is not >>> working. Headphone jack normal audio. Any ideas speaker and wiring >>> check good... >>> >>> /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/ >>> >>> >>> Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> <mailto:[hidden email]> wrote: >>> >>> Scotty, >>> >>> The most common cause for that behavior is a problem with T1 - leads >>> not >>> adequately stripped and tinned, leads not in the correct holes, the >>> toroid wound in the wrong direction (it must be *exactly* like the >>> figure in the manual), inadequate soldering. >>> >>> One other (but less common) cause is for there to be a capacitor or >>> inductor that is being left in the circuit. The normal cause of >>> that is >>> missing a solder connection to one of the relays or the firmware IC. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> On 10/5/2013 6:10 PM, Scotty Long wrote: >>> > Just installed NB works great. >>> > >>> > Newly installed KAT1 page 9 no appreciable value change volts when >>> adjusting C9... >>> > >>> > >>> >> > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Scotty,
If you jumper the switch terminals as Gary suggested, you will have speaker all the time. Put a switch in series with that jumper wire and you have a speaker on/off switch. On the K2 there is an easy method to do that, just plug an unwired 3.5mm plug into the external speaker jack. The K1 does not have an external speaker provision, so you will have to be more 'creative' about the switch. If your K1 has the internal battery option *and* you do not use that option, the battery on/off switch can be re-purposed for the speaker switch - or add your own ideas for a switch location. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/7/2013 4:35 PM, Scotty Long wrote: > Thank you I will try that. I'm looking at options for another plug (more durable) and a switch to turn the speaker on and off manually as well. > > Scotty/NU0S > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > Gary Surrency <[hidden email]> wrote: > > If you bridge the terminals of the headphone switch, you can see if the > speaker then works. They are the ones on the rear of the switch when you > have the bottom cover removed. If that works, you will need to replace > the switch if you want to be able to go back and forth between the > headphones and speaker at will. Or just leave the jumper there for now. > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Scotty Long
Thank you to everyone for your input. I will try that Don that is a nice option I would like to have anyway.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: Scotty, If you jumper the switch terminals as Gary suggested, you will have speaker all the time. Put a switch in series with that jumper wire and you have a speaker on/off switch. On the K2 there is an easy method to do that, just plug an unwired 3.5mm plug into the external speaker jack. The K1 does not have an external speaker provision, so you will have to be more 'creative' about the switch. If your K1 has the internal battery option *and* you do not use that option, the battery on/off switch can be re-purposed for the speaker switch - or add your own ideas for a switch location. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/7/2013 4:35 PM, Scotty Long wrote: > Thank you I will try that. I'm looking at options for another plug (more durable) and a switch to turn the speaker on and off manually as well. > > Scotty/NU0S > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > Gary Surrency <[hidden email]> wrote: > > If you bridge the terminals of the headphone switch, you can see if the > speaker then works. They are the ones on the rear of the switch when you > have the bottom cover removed. If that works, you will need to replace > the switch if you want to be able to go back and forth between the > headphones and speaker at will. Or just leave the jumper there for now. > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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