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Request Advice re K2 Build

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Edward A. Dauer

Request Advice re K2 Build

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2. Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself. (The lead
spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.) If
inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink. But that
leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
leads avoid stray couplings. So, two other possibilities. One is to
³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface. The other is to
pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
the other side. That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
stress on the capacitor itself. What¹s the best way to do this? And why
are those kinks there in the first place?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Request Advice re K2 Build

Ted,

Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into
the board.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>
> Building a K2. Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself. (The lead
> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.) If
> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink. But that
> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
> leads avoid stray couplings. So, two other possibilities. One is to
> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface. The other is to
> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
> the other side. That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
> stress on the capacitor itself. What¹s the best way to do this? And why
> are those kinks there in the first place?
>
>

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James Bennett

Re: Request Advice re K2 Build

In reply to this post by Edward A. Dauer

Ted - been there! I de-kink mine before placing them on the board.

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA

> On Oct 15, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Dauer, Edward <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>
> Building a K2. Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself. (The lead
> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.) If
> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink. But that
> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
> leads avoid stray couplings. So, two other possibilities. One is to
> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface. The other is to
> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
> the other side. That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
> stress on the capacitor itself. What¹s the best way to do this? And why
> are those kinks there in the first place?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ted, KN1CBR
>
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k6dgw

Re: Request Advice re K2 Build

In reply to this post by Edward A. Dauer

Yes, and I remember when the kinks were introduced. Through-hole
4-layer circuit board for a vehicular and aircraft application, I gave
one of our prototypes that had been auto-stuffed to our Mech E. and told
him to put it into his shake-and-bake, and show me the vibration spectra
when the parts fell off. Every single one of the kinked caps flew off
at well below our contract vibration specs.

I don't subject my K2 to anything like that, but I have dropped my pack
a couple of times [and knew I would], and I straightened all the leads
and put the caps right down on the board when I built it. It's a little
more work, I figured it was worth it.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 10/15/2015 8:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The "kinks" were introduced by the manufacturer so the leads would drop
> right into standard pc-board hole spacings by automated board stuffing
> machines. The assembly manuals identify those caps where it is important to
> have the shortest possible lead lengths. Otherwise there is not a lot to be
> gained by straightening the leads and forcing the cap into place.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC

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Vic Rosenthal

Re: Request Advice re K2 Build

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

But hold the capacitor by the lead, not by its body, when you do this. You don't want to accidentally apply twisting force between the lead and the capacitor.
I learned this the hard way when I built my K2 and I still remember it!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 1:50 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into the board.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>>
>> Building a K2. Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
>> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself. (The lead
>> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.) If
>> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink. But that
>> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
>> leads avoid stray couplings. So, two other possibilities. One is to
>> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
>> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface. The other is to
>> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
>> the other side. That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
>> stress on the capacitor itself. What¹s the best way to do this? And why
>> are those kinks there in the first place?
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]