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SMT and the K3 - Nerves

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k0wa@swbell.net

SMT and the K3 - Nerves

I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but they
also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. Now I
have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game for me
from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.

Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and replacing
it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
resistor.

Lee - K0WA
Nervous in Kansas

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
- John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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Tom Azlin N4ZPT-2

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Hi Lee,

I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was pretty
easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the two pieces.

Then made sure the solder on both sides was good and cleaned most off.
Was not much there. then tacked the SMT replacement in place on one
side. Then was just touch the soldering iron on the other side to flow
the solder ( might have added a spot of fresh solder.) Then soldered the
other side and all was perfect. There is also plenty room to put in the
other resistor resistor with leads per the instructions.

I had a pair of fine tweezers with a rubber band to hold the SMT
resistor while I did the tack on one side. Seemed to work well. Not much
solder at all is needed.

73, tom n4zpt

On 4/19/2012 10:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
> updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. Now I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game for me
> from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> - John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

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Joel Black-2

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

I started building kits in January of 2011. Been a ham for almost 20
years and missed the "Heathkit Generation." Why do I mention this?
Well, the kits I wanted to build were SDR's (SoftRocks to be specific).
They are great little radios and wonderful for those wanting to
experiment with SDR; however, they have lots of SMD parts.

The only things that will affect whether or not you can do it is (and
I'm not trying to be funny here):

1. If you physically cannot see,
2. You shake too bad to be able to handle the parts, or
3. You are intimidated.

I *was* #3 (and I have fairly large hands). Now, take a look at this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lauw0bSe-Cw

...and this:

http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SMD-SolderingWorkshop.pdf

Bottom line, if you *want* to do it, you can do it. Go to the SoftRock
Yahoo Group and ask some of those guys their ages. Some of them are in
their 70's and older and do not have an issue with SMD's.

You know what sucks? Toroids! I hate them!

I'm not typing this to make fun of, intimidate, or harass you. Rather,
I am doing this to motivate you. IT CAN BE DONE!

73,
Joel - W4JBB

On 4/19/2012 9:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
> updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. Now I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game for me
> from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> - John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Doug Joyce

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Lee: If the K3 has been back to Aptos for updates, I would expect that this
change has already been made. K3 Service should be able to tell you if this
is the case. Also I believe the mod instructions provide info on how to
measure and confirm the value of the current resistor and whether or not a
change is necessary. Good Luck

You will really enjoy the P3.

73, Doug VE3MV

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Buller" <[hidden email]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
> updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that
> that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.
> Now I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game
> for me
> from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the
> little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't
> find any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is
> Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my
> mind.
> - John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

WE5ST

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Lee,

After doing the mod you are contemplating I formulated a new rule for the WE5ST
shack - never touch another SMD. Once I had the mod in place, it wasn't that big
a difference - not worth the risk to me. My P3 worked fine before the mod and
for the kind of operating I do it was more that good enough.

I replaced the SMD with a leaded resistor supplied. I made it and the rig is
working fine - huge surprise to me. It's the ugliest soldering job I ever did
and I'm really happy I did not damage the board. I had a small iron, magnifier,
etc. But I plan to leave that to the pros if the need ever arises.

I see fine, used a good magnifier/light combo, have pretty steady hands and have
done a lot of soldering. For me, the risk is too high. I would prefer to pull
the board and send it back for modification.

That said - I suspect the replacement may have been already made since you sent
the rig back before.

________________________________
From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 9:20:03 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but they
also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. Now I
have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game for me

from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.

Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and replacing

it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
resistor.

Lee - K0WA
Nervous in Kansas

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any

Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
- John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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______________________________________________________________
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Jack - WE5ST

Bob-270

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by Tom Azlin N4ZPT-2

I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress is applied
to the pads
and they can lift off the board. The potential for board damage, is very high.

73,
Bob
K2TK

On 4/19/2012 10:46 AM, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
> Hi Lee,
>
> I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was pretty
> easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the two pieces.
>
>
> 73, tom n4zpt
>
>
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Vic Rosenthal

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Check if it's been done. Then if you need to, just do it. The likelihood of damaging
anything is very small.

The component in question is large, as SMT parts go. You can do it. Read the instructions
and jump in. You will feel great afterwards.

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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KeithWE6R

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Administrator

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

Tom Azlin N4ZPT-2

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by Bob-270

Hi Bob,

I disagree. Did you read the Elecraft instructions?? Please do so then
comment to Elecraft on the errors in their ways.

Thanks and 73, tom n4zpt

On 4/19/2012 12:04 PM, Bob wrote:

> I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress
> is applied to the pads and they can lift off the board. The potential
> for board damage, is very high.
>
> 73, Bob K2TK
>
> On 4/19/2012 10:46 AM, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
>> Hi Lee,
>>
>> I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was
>> pretty easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the
>> two pieces.
>>
>>
>> 73, tom n4zpt
>>
>>
>
>

JP O'Connor

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by KeithWE6R

Now that is customer service!!!

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:23 PM, Keith <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Lee;
> Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
> I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
> Keith
>
> On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> > I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
> > updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that
> that
> > changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT,
> but they
> > also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.
> Now I
> > have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
> > procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new
> game for me
> > from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
> >
> > Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and
> replacing
> > it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the
> little
> > resistor.
> >
> > Lee - K0WA
> > Nervous in Kansas
> >
> >
> > In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If
> you don't
> > have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't
> find any
> > Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is
> Common
> > Sense divine?
> >
> > Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my
> mind.
> > - John W. (Kansas)
> >
> > Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

k0wa@swbell.net

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by KeithWE6R

Keith....

You are my HERO! Thanks.

Elecraft is the best!

Lee - K0WA

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
- John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.

________________________________
From: Keith <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 11:23:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3. It has been back to Aptos for
> updates. Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3. It is SMT, but
they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. Now
I

> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an arm....but LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3....it gives megreat pause. This is a whole new game for
>me
> from the K2. I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.....make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and
>replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you
>don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find
>any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> - John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy-3

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by Bob-270

Bob makes a good point IMHO in that cutting the part in half is not a good
idea, it can damage the pads - been there <g> Better, I suggest, to
unsolder both ends at the same time, and then remove the part off the board.
Unsoldering one end and lifting that end can also stress the pad at the
other end. There are, I believe, soldering iron bits available designed to
apply heat to both ends of a SMD capacitor or resistor, useful I suppose if
one is a manufacturer. But for homebrewing in recent years I have been
using two soldering irons, each with a small chisel bit, to remove SMD Rs or
Cs when required.

SMDs are addictive!!

FWIW

73,
Geoff
LX2AO

On April 19, 2012, at 18:04 + 0200, Bob K2TK wrote:

>I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress is
>applied
> to the pads
> and they can lift off the board. The potential for board damage, is very
> high.
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K2TK

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Alan Bloom

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
> to the pcb.

On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom). So the way
I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
part so that it heats both ends at the same time. Once the solder
melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
knife, whatever.

> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> essential.

In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
key to successful SMT work. I have a binocular microscope with built in
light that I bought brand new for about $300. Whatever you use, make
sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.

Alan N1AL

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George Dubovsky

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Both at work and at home, I use two irons to remove SMD parts. The earlier
poster that warned against pad damage when clipping a chip in half was
right on; the damage won't occur most of the time, but it will certainly
happen on the hardest to remove or the hardest to replace board ;-) And, I
maintain that there's a special place in hell reserved for people who
design in 0402 and smaller parts when they have plenty of real estate on
the board!!

73,

geo - n4ua

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 5:58 PM, Alan Bloom <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
> > I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in
> half or
> > by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any
> damage
> > to the pcb.
>
> On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
> terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom). So the way
> I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
> solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
> part so that it heats both ends at the same time. Once the solder
> melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
> knife, whatever.
>
> > Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> > essential.
>
> In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
> key to successful SMT work. I have a binocular microscope with built in
> light that I bought brand new for about $300. Whatever you use, make
> sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
> useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Mel

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by Alan Bloom

Well, you are both right and wrong. Sorry, The correct way to remove an SMT component is with the right tools. Most of the accepted makers of SMT soldering and unsoldering equipment have gone to great lengths in minimalizing the undesirable effects of over heating by having available tips that match the size of the component like a saddle. The tip touches both the ends of the component and the solder bridge to loosen the part and with a vacuum pick either in the wand or standing by to suck the part of the PCB. Honestly it is the most desirable way for minimum impact to the PCB trace. In a off site situation I have done the leap frog on both ends and with a dental pick lifted one side then with tweezers hold the part and unsolder the offending side. The absolute worst why is to try and pry the part up while overheating one end. Ugly. Sorry, guys the had to give my two bits worth. Buy the way the right tips are far less expensive than a
damaged PCB.

Mel, K6KBE

Mel

--- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloom <[hidden email]> wrote:

From: Alan Bloom <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
Cc: "'Elecraft Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>
Date: Thursday, April 19, 2012, 2:58 PM

On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
> to the pcb.

On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom). So the way
I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
part so that it heats both ends at the same time. Once the solder
melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
knife, whatever.

> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> essential.

In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
key to successful SMT work. I have a binocular microscope with built in
light that I bought brand new for about $300. Whatever you use, make
sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.

Alan N1AL

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Andrew Moore-3

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

It's not too bad - I would just recommend NOT simply clipping the existing
SMG resistor - but rather heating it up and using tweezers to pull it off.
If you clip with cold solder, you risk pulling up traces from the board.
You may not mean "clip" in this sense but I thought I'd mention it just in
case... Heat each side, back & forth, until things are toasty enough that
you can just pull the SMT resistor off with tweezers. If it's taking too
long, be wary of overheating, take a break and try again.

Andrew / NV1B

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 10:18 AM, Lee Buller <[hidden email]> wrote:

John Ragle

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by George Dubovsky

Clearly, the route to dealing with SMD's is a very personal one. I would
like to offer my US$ 0.02 worth on this matter. A good, small-tip,
temperature controlled soldering pencil is very important, as is fine
gauge solder. I use a ceramic tipped iron which needs no extensive
cleaning (a wipe on a damp sponge is all), and despite several years of
use, there is no sign whatever of the tip being eaten away (as was
common with the copper tips of yore). Fresh solder wick is
indispensable. A comfortable, non-bulky head-mounted binocular (!)
magnifier is also indispensable.

I also caged a few hemostats from my MD friends...these get a bit
tarnished with repeated autoclaving, and are usually just discarded. The
ones I use are quite delicate. They are of the "needle-holder" type
(used in stitching) or the clamp kind. Some have serrated tips, others
are smooth. These will give a gentle hold on even quite small parts, and
can be used either for installation or removal of double-ended SMC's.

I use a small stainless scribing tool to hold parts in place for the
initial tacking. I touched up the tip on a stone so that it is not
needle-sharp. I have found this to be an invaluable tool for "Manhattan"
and dead-bug construction as well.

There are excellent tutorials on SMC/SMD mounting that can be found
using Google. A key psychological attribute is confidence.

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by Mel

Mel,

Having the "right tools" certainly makes the task easier, and with the
right tools, a task like changing a resistor is almost as easy as
"falling off a log".

There are many who do not have the "right tools" at hand, and purchasing
the "right tools" for just one task is not a reasonable solution if
economics are to be considered.

So, there are OK alternate techniques, such as heating both ends of the
component at the same time as Alan Bloom pointed out, or my usual
solution of heating both ends alternately in rapid succession until the
component moves, or the two soldering iron solution. These all work,
and IMHO have less probability for damage to the PC board than
physically breaking the component in two.

Look at the size of the traces. If the traces cover a relatively large
area, then breaking the component will be OK, but if the traces are thin
and the solder pads small, breaking the component can damage the
board. Look at it first - the possibility of board damage comes under
the category of "it all depends ..."

I do not have the "right tools" for SMD device removal, and it is not
nice to get the second soldering iron fired up. But, I will offer yet
another technique that I use frequently - my pocket knife has a very
thin blade edge (a single edged razor blade would serve a a substitute),
and I can heat one end of a component and start (not force) the blade
between the board and the component - OK, knife blade in - go heat the
other end and it will pop right off. Caution, do not attempt this with
a knife blade honed at a knife "factory edge" angle - I sharpen my
blades to an angle of about 15 degrees. so the knife edge makes a
slow-rising ramp for the component. That angle is similar to the angle
found on a single edge razor blade (an Exacto knife blade has a steeper
angle than I use on my knife blades - I do use diamond hones to produce
the knife edge, final grit is 1200, so the edge has some "polish" to it).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2012 6:37 PM, Mel Farrer wrote:

> Well, you are both right and wrong. Sorry, The correct way to remove an SMT component is with the right tools. Most of the accepted makers of SMT soldering and unsoldering equipment have gone to great lengths in minimalizing the undesirable effects of over heating by having available tips that match the size of the component like a saddle. The tip touches both the ends of the component and the solder bridge to loosen the part and with a vacuum pick either in the wand or standing by to suck the part of the PCB. Honestly it is the most desirable way for minimum impact to the PCB trace. In a off site situation I have done the leap frog on both ends and with a dental pick lifted one side then with tweezers hold the part and unsolder the offending side. The absolute worst why is to try and pry the part up while overheating one end. Ugly. Sorry, guys the had to give my two bits worth. Buy the way the right tips are far less expensive than a
> damaged PCB.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
> Mel
>
> --- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloom<[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> From: Alan Bloom<[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
> To: "Ron D'Eau Claire"<[hidden email]>
> Cc: "'Elecraft Discussion List'"<[hidden email]>
> Date: Thursday, April 19, 2012, 2:58 PM
>
> On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
>> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
>> to the pcb.
> On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
> terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom). So the way
> I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
> solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
> part so that it heats both ends at the same time. Once the solder
> melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
> knife, whatever.
>
>> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
>> essential.
> In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
> key to successful SMT work. I have a binocular microscope with built in
> light that I bought brand new for about $300. Whatever you use, make
> sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
> useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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DaveL G3TJP

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter "wires"
together with a special flux. Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
soldered joint and then melt the other end with the iron. The Chipquik-ed
end stays molten, so removal is a breeze, as is cleanup. I've removed and
replaced a 64-pin chip quite easily with it. I won't say more, but visit
the website, www.chipquik.com <http://www.chipquik.com/> and take up their
free sample offer; it's enough to help remove several components.

As for crunching up SMT's, that doesn't sit easy with me, but the quality of
Elecraft's boards means they will take some hammer before foil separates
from the substrate. I sure have hammered, but to date, I've never lifted a
trace or pad on an Elecraft PCB, although I know a few folks who have. Just
tonight, I removed a diode on a small, made in China PCB. Simply heating
both ends of the component's solder caused the pads to separate from the
board; such was its dire quality. I used a wire ended diode to replace the
dud and had to be a bit crafty as to where the ends were tacked, but it's
working again.

For a quick hold-down of a component, I often use a cocktail stick, taking
care to keep it absolutely vertical above the component. Use tweezers with
care because they make fine component launchers and tracking down the
launched component is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Little
vacuum pencils are sold on Ebay for a couple of bucks and are handy for
lifting or keeping hold of stuff like SMT ICs - the big stuff Hi!

While I'm on a roll, here are more tips, qualified by the usual disclaimer -
YMMV.

Small wattage soldering irons have so much thermal lag that components can
be barbecued before the solder melts. I use and recommend a temperature
controlled iron of around 50 watts. Go for something that has a fine tip,
but not a needle tip, as there's not much metal to conduct heat to the tip,
so thermal lag again. Look for a short taper.

Get a GOOD solder sucker. I have a small stock of Soldapullts from Edsyn.
Take a look at www.edsyn.com <http://www.edsyn.com/> and check out the last
few pages of their clearance items. You should find some very inexpensive,
end of line, high quality solder suckers listed. Get a spare tip or two
with the order.

Invest in a liquid flux pen. It makes such a difference to have wiped a
spot on pads before soldering and wiping along the next bit of solder braid
you're using makes the braid much more effective.

73 Dave G3TJP

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Dave,

I can highly recommend Chipquik - for multilegged devices. For devices
with only 2 leads, I believe it is overkill (but it will work). My
objections with Quickchip is that one *must* clean up the site before
applying new solder - or the new solder will not stick.. The cleanup
task is not to be minimized, but is necessary,

Chipquik is not inexpensive, but samples are available. Give it a try
for devices having more than 2 solder connections - but for 2 legged
devices, I stand by my conclusion that the cleanup is more work than the
effort required using other means. YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2012 10:29 PM, Dave Lankshear wrote:

> I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
> It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
> teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter "wires"
> together with a special flux. Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
> soldered joint and then melt the other end with the iron. The Chipquik-ed
> end stays molten, so removal is a breeze, as is cleanup. I've removed and
> replaced a 64-pin chip quite easily with it. I won't say more, but visit
> the website, www.chipquik.com<http://www.chipquik.com/> and take up their
> free sample offer; it's enough to help remove several components.
>
>
>
> As for crunching up SMT's, that doesn't sit easy with me, but the quality of
> Elecraft's boards means they will take some hammer before foil separates
> from the substrate. I sure have hammered, but to date, I've never lifted a
> trace or pad on an Elecraft PCB, although I know a few folks who have. Just
> tonight, I removed a diode on a small, made in China PCB. Simply heating
> both ends of the component's solder caused the pads to separate from the
> board; such was its dire quality. I used a wire ended diode to replace the
> dud and had to be a bit crafty as to where the ends were tacked, but it's
> working again.
>
>
>
> For a quick hold-down of a component, I often use a cocktail stick, taking
> care to keep it absolutely vertical above the component. Use tweezers with
> care because they make fine component launchers and tracking down the
> launched component is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Little
> vacuum pencils are sold on Ebay for a couple of bucks and are handy for
> lifting or keeping hold of stuff like SMT ICs - the big stuff Hi!
>
>
>
> While I'm on a roll, here are more tips, qualified by the usual disclaimer -
> YMMV.
>
>
>
> Small wattage soldering irons have so much thermal lag that components can
> be barbecued before the solder melts. I use and recommend a temperature
> controlled iron of around 50 watts. Go for something that has a fine tip,
> but not a needle tip, as there's not much metal to conduct heat to the tip,
> so thermal lag again. Look for a short taper.
>
>
>
> Get a GOOD solder sucker. I have a small stock of Soldapullts from Edsyn.
> Take a look at www.edsyn.com<http://www.edsyn.com/> and check out the last
> few pages of their clearance items. You should find some very inexpensive,
> end of line, high quality solder suckers listed. Get a spare tip or two
> with the order.
>
>
>
> Invest in a liquid flux pen. It makes such a difference to have wiped a
> spot on pads before soldering and wiping along the next bit of solder braid
> you're using makes the braid much more effective.
>
>
>
> 73 Dave G3TJP
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>