Soldering station
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I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state
requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of the new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess I will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating my K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking through Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio or are there some less expensive suitable alternatives? Nelson - K8DJC -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 5355 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Hello,
I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one? I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50 in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up. With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that I can find, even on the secondary message menus. Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no error message? Best, DW Holtman WB7SSN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of the new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess I will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating my K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking through Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio or are there some less expensive suitable alternatives? Nelson - K8DJC ------------------------------------------ That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering two fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated, will melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical as many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no soldering to do to the RXA board itself. It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance of having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work on your rigs. You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using a portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my teeth. I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that lets me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage of "growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in the 1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then boards with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the tissue-thin, tiny traces we find on many boards today. Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering station in a comfortable, well-lit shop. Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a month to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect circuit boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron. I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years ago from www.tequipment.net. Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how much risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Nelson Wittstock
Just checked out the Hakko 936-12 soldering station using the URL provided
by Ron, AC7AC, and discovered that the soldering station is on sale for $78.80. I bought one a while back and it is a super soldering station. It has relegated my Weller WTCPT soldering station to back-up use. To take a look at the Hakko go to: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html 73, Joe W2KJ I QRP, therefore I am _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by DW Holtman
Hello,
I just noticed something else on this problem. The whole radio resets, like turning it off then on again. The word Elecraft pops up on the LCD and the DSP red light blinks on, just like I turned it off then on again. Any suggestions? Best, DW Holtman WB7SSN ----- Original Message ----- From: "DW Holtman" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:09 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem > Hello, > > I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one? > > I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power > supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50 > in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up. > > With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the > power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I > get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is > keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts > the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that I > can find, even on the secondary message menus. > > Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no > error message? > > Best, > DW Holtman > WB7SSN > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> > To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <[hidden email]>; > <[hidden email]> > Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station > > > I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state > requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of > the > > new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and > consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted > soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess > I > will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating > my > K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking > through > > Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it > absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio > or > are there some less expensive suitable alternatives? > > Nelson - K8DJC > > ------------------------------------------ > > That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering > two > fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated, will > melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical > as > many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are > connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any > case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no > soldering to do to the RXA board itself. > > It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance > of > having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good > soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work > on > your rigs. > > You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards > sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using > a > portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my > teeth. > > I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that > lets > me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very > careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage of > "growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in > the > 1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then > boards > with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the tissue-thin, > tiny traces we find on many boards today. > > Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering > station in a comfortable, well-lit shop. > > Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a > month > to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect circuit > boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron. > > I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years ago > from www.tequipment.net. > > Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how > much > risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components. > > Ron AC7AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Nelson Wittstock
No it's not necessary. The Circuit Specialists CSI-STATION1A is a virtual clone of the Hakko 936...same circuit diagram, same ESD protection, same physical construction and uses the same tips...but it only costs $39.95. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 It comes with a 0.8 mm conical tip (good for fine pitch SMD digital devices) but I would also recommend a 1.6 mm chisel tip (KD-M-1.6D for $4.95) for general use (including all recent K3 mods, K2 thru-hole assembly, etc). If you order at least $50.00 worth, you can also get a DMM free. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/level.itml/icOid/190 73, Bill W4ZV |
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In reply to this post by DW Holtman
You might want to make sure your power supply isn't doing its foldback
or current limiting thing..... If it is, symptoms you've described should repeat 100% of the time. matt, W6NIA k3 # 24 On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 14:19:11 -0600, you wrote: >Hello, > >I just noticed something else on this problem. The whole radio resets, like >turning it off then on again. The word Elecraft pops up on the LCD and the >DSP red light blinks on, just like I turned it off then on again. > >Any suggestions? > >Best, >DW Holtman >WB7SSN > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "DW Holtman" <[hidden email]> >To: <[hidden email]> >Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:09 PM >Subject: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem > > >> Hello, >> >> I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one? >> >> I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power >> supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50 >> in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up. >> >> With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the >> power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I >> get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is >> keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts >> the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that I >> can find, even on the secondary message menus. >> >> Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no >> error message? >> >> Best, >> DW Holtman >> WB7SSN >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> >> To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <[hidden email]>; >> <[hidden email]> >> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station >> >> >> I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state >> requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of >> the >> >> new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and >> consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted >> soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess >> I >> will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating >> my >> K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking >> through >> >> Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it >> absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio >> or >> are there some less expensive suitable alternatives? >> >> Nelson - K8DJC >> >> ------------------------------------------ >> >> That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering >> two >> fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated, will >> melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical >> as >> many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are >> connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any >> case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no >> soldering to do to the RXA board itself. >> >> It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance >> of >> having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good >> soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work >> on >> your rigs. >> >> You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards >> sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using >> a >> portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my >> teeth. >> >> I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that >> lets >> me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very >> careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage of >> "growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in >> the >> 1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then >> boards >> with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the tissue-thin, >> tiny traces we find on many boards today. >> >> Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering >> station in a comfortable, well-lit shop. >> >> Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a >> month >> to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect circuit >> boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron. >> >> I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years ago >> from www.tequipment.net. >> >> Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how >> much >> risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components. >> >> Ron AC7AC >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Hello,
I want to thank Matt, W6NLA, Robie - AJ4F and Mike AI4NS for their inputs. They all three hit the nail on the head. I was using an Astron linear 35 amp supply. I bought in recently on Ebay, and assumed it worked, because it reads 13.8VDC with no load. I hooked up a 20 Amp Astron and it no longer trips. Guess I will be looking for a schematic diagram for an Astron RS-35A Power supply. I also was feeding the RS-35A through an MFJ 1118 outlet box. I might have to take a good look at it too. Now I have a different problem. It stays up and transmits, but only puts out about 23 watts. The Power Supply is reading 13.6VDC at 23 watts, that is not the problem. The LCD shows the correct power at 23 watts (even though the power level pot is set for anywhere from 25 to 100 Watts) and a 1.0 to 1 SWR. I'm transmitting into an MFJ tuner in the dummy load switch position. I think this might be something I did wrong with the set-up. I'm going to go through the whole set up again step by step. Thanks again to a fine group on this forum. Best, DW Holtman WB7SSN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Zilmer" <[hidden email]> To: "DW Holtman" <[hidden email]> Cc: "DW Holtman" <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 3:10 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem You might want to make sure your power supply isn't doing its foldback or current limiting thing..... If it is, symptoms you've described should repeat 100% of the time. matt, W6NIA k3 # 24 On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 14:19:11 -0600, you wrote: >Hello, > >I just noticed something else on this problem. The whole radio resets, like >turning it off then on again. The word Elecraft pops up on the LCD and the >DSP red light blinks on, just like I turned it off then on again. > >Any suggestions? > >Best, >DW Holtman >WB7SSN > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "DW Holtman" <[hidden email]> >To: <[hidden email]> >Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:09 PM >Subject: [Elecraft] K2 100 Watt Pa Problem > > >> Hello, >> >> I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like ythis one? >> >> I'm was in the process of finishing up my KPA 100. All of the power >> supply, bias adjustments etc went as per the book. When I got to page 50 >> in the manual to test the transmitter at high power the problem shows up. >> >> With the Power out turned to around 11 watts, the relay clicks and the >> power out is taken over by the KPA 100. Every thing works great until I >> get to right at 20 watts. Any power level 20 watts or over, when it is >> keyed, a relay klicks, power out shuts off and nothing out. At 18 watts >> the power out from the KPA 100 is fine. There are no error messages that >> I >> can find, even on the secondary message menus. >> >> Any suggestions why the PA works up to 20 watts then shuts down with no >> error message? >> >> Best, >> DW Holtman >> WB7SSN >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> >> To: "'Nelson Wittstock'" <[hidden email]>; >> <[hidden email]> >> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 2:00 PM >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Soldering station >> >> >> I just ordered the new KXV3 RXA board for my K3. The instructions state >> requirements for the soldering station to be used in the installation of >> the >> >> new board. My workshop has never had need for "high tech" soldering and >> consequently I do not own a soldering station. I have several assorted >> soldering irons and guns that have served me well in the past but I guess >> I >> will have to join the modern world. Since I would like to keep updating >> my >> K3 it looks like I will need to buy a soldering station. In looking >> through >> >> Googled references I see many stations in the $100 and up range. Is it >> absolutely necessary to spend that much to ensure the safety of my radio >> or >> are there some less expensive suitable alternatives? >> >> Nelson - K8DJC >> >> ------------------------------------------ >> >> That mod is one of the easiest in terms of soldering. You are soldering >> two >> fine wires to closely-spaced connector terminals that, if overheated, >> will >> melt the connector header or lift traces. But it's not nearly as critical >> as >> many component installations in other locations. Two more leads are >> connected to BNC connector terminals that require significant heat in any >> case. The RXA board comes with the leads pre-attached, so there's no >> soldering to do to the RXA board itself. >> >> It's a judgment call. Elecraft wants you to be successful and your chance >> of >> having trouble is greatly reduced by using the right tools, and a good >> soldering station is a tool you'll use again and again if you do any work >> on >> your rigs. >> >> You can get away with less. I've repaired a lot of SMD circuit boards >> sitting cross-legged on the deck in the navigating bridge of a ship using >> a >> portable butane-powered soldering iron while holding a flashlight in my >> teeth. >> >> I've also had lots and lots of practice over decades of soldering that >> lets >> me judge the temperature of the tip by the smell and, by being very, very >> careful, I've yet to destroy a board or parts. I did have the advantage >> of >> "growing up" with the pc board industry, first working on boards back in >> the >> 1960s that had large push-in pins to which leads were soldered, then >> boards >> with big thick, wide traces that have slowly evolved into the >> tissue-thin, >> tiny traces we find on many boards today. >> >> Even so, whenever possible I'll use a temperature-controlled soldering >> station in a comfortable, well-lit shop. >> >> Over time, I've found that a good soldering station costs me pennies a >> month >> to own and use. I don't consider that too much to spend to protect >> circuit >> boards, almost any one of which is worth more than the iron. >> >> I currently have a Hakko 936 that cost me less than $100 several years >> ago >> from www.tequipment.net. >> >> Bottom line, it's a matter of how skilled you are at soldering and how >> much >> risk you are comfortable taking with the pc board and components. >> >> Ron AC7AC >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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