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Tips for new KX1

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John Huggins, kx4o

Tips for new KX1

Hello all,

I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase. I
eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.

I recall some folks with the K2 suggest procuring the desired options
ahead of time to avoid reworking portions of the circuitry during a
later retrofit.

Does the KX1's design lend itself to add the 3080 and tuner options
later with little rework?

Anyone have any other advice to give before I plunge into building the
base KX1 rig?

I already know about pre-wound toroids, but enjoy doing those myself.

Thanks.

John
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w1pns

Re: Tips for new KX1

On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
> and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

Hi John,

It's a great little radio; you'll love it. I built the 40-20 version and
the autotuner and used the radio for a bit before adding the 80-30
module. I think the answer to your question rests in large part on how
experienced you are at kit-building and how adept you are at editing
construction manuals -- reading through both sets of very detailed
instructions, adding any changes from the errata page, then fold one
into the other for a straight-through build that works the first time.

When I tackled mine, it was the first kit I'd built in roughly 25 years,
so I took the conservative 40-20 route and don't regretted it. If I
remember correctly, Elecraft recommends adding the 80-30 after you're
sure you have a functioning 40-20 radio. The tuner is easy enough to
remove when it comes time to add the two extra bands. The approach also
introduced me to the joys of a desoldering tool, a kind of reverse,
spring-loaded syringe. Looks like something I wouldn't want to see a
physician wield around my bod! ;-)

I bought the options all at once. But I felt most comfortable following
Elecraft's recommended approach.

Dunno if this helps at all...

With best regards,

Pete

--
Peter N. Spotts -- W1PNS
http://www.w1pns.net
Email: [hidden email] | Skype: pspotts
QCWA #34679 | SKCC #4853T | QRP-ARCI #4174
NEQRP #714 | NAQCC #2446 | GQRP #13202

"Amateur radio is a contact sport.
Get on the air and make a contact!"
-- Lyle Amundson, K0LFV

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AC7AC

Re: Tips for new KX1

In reply to this post by John Huggins, kx4o

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

w1pns

Re: Tips for new KX1

In reply to this post by John Huggins, kx4o

On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
> Hello all,
>

Oh yes, and the instructions for the 40-20 only radio give you
variations on a couple of steps that you'd take if you intend to add the
80-30 board later. So the latest instructions anticipate somewhat a
later addition of the extra bands.

Pete

--
Peter N. Spotts -- W1PNS
http://www.w1pns.net
Email: [hidden email] | Skype: pspotts
QCWA #34679 | SKCC #4853T | QRP-ARCI #4174
NEQRP #714 | NAQCC #2446 | GQRP #13202

"Amateur radio is a contact sport.
Get on the air and make a contact!"
-- Lyle Amundson, K0LFV

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Tips for new KX1

In reply to this post by John Huggins, kx4o

John,

If you are an experienced builder, you can build the KX1 with
consideration for the addition of the KXB3080 option - if and only if
you order the KXB3080 at the same time as the KX1 (you will need some of
the components).

If you cannot order the KXB3080 until later, just mount L6 on the bottom
of the board rather than the top so you do not have to change it later.

If you have the KXB3080 kit available while building the KX1, you can
avoid de-soldering components by following the instructions below:
The procedure is as follows:
Build the KX1 as indicated in the manual up through page 30 of the KX1
manual.
On page 31, install L6 on the bottom of the board rather than on the top.
Do not install L7 on page 31.
Do not install C27 (page 32)
Do not install C1 on page 33.
Do not install C26 (page 33).
Continue with the KX1 manual steps.
Then from the KXB3080 instructions, install C1, C26 and T2 - be sure to
make the PC trace cut indicated on page 5 (figure 2), and connect the
end of the 40 meter trimmer capacitor to the cut trace as indicated.

You should then have a KX1 that works on 40 and 20 meters - test it on
those bands.

Then add the KXB3080 board as indicated in the KXB3080 manual, and again
test the KX1 on 40 and 20 meters.

Lastly (and most carefully), build the Low Pass Filter board for the
KXB3080. Follow the manual diagrams explicitly, work carefully, and
make it look just like the diagrams - this is the most common failure
point for builders.

Then activate b30 and b80 in the menu, and you should have operation on
all 4 bands.

Good luck with the build process. Use care when building the KX1 -
because of its density, it is one of the more difficult Elecraft kits.
Follow the instructions explicitly, use good soldering techniques and
you should have success. If you do not understand any step in the
instructions, ask here on the reflector and you should receive
clarification.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 10:12 PM, John wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
> and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.
>
> For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase. I
> eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.
>
> I recall some folks with the K2 suggest procuring the desired options
> ahead of time to avoid reworking portions of the circuitry during a
> later retrofit.
>
> Does the KX1's design lend itself to add the 3080 and tuner options
> later with little rework?
>
> Anyone have any other advice to give before I plunge into building the
> base KX1 rig?
>
> I already know about pre-wound toroids, but enjoy doing those myself.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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John Huggins, kx4o

Re: Tips for new KX1

In reply to this post by John Huggins, kx4o

Thanks to Pete, Don and Ron for the responses.

I think you all have convinced me to go ahead and get the 3080 option
soonest and get other options as able.

The warnings about incorporating documentation errata are well
received. So looking at the documentation section of the Elecraft web
site can I assume...

- The Rev. E KX1 Manual needs no changes (other than 3080 preparation)?
- The Rev. A KXB3080 Manual needs Rev. A-1 changes incorporated into Rev. A?

As far as personal soldering history and kit building goes... I deal
with surface mount and through hole components at work all the time,
have built Elecraft 2T-gen, CP1, DL1, XG2, the QRPKits DC40a and in the
deep past the Heathkit GC1000 "Most Accurate Clock," 2140A "HF Power
Meter" & the HFT-9A antenna tuner (all of which still work).

My XG2 became quite a popular item in my club as it traveled from one K3
owner to the next to help them perform some kind of "final step" in
their K3 bring-up.

Anyway, it's time for my next kit build and I am thankful Elecraft has
the kits available.

John

On 5/4/11 10:12 PM, John wrote:

Michael Babineau-2

Re: Tips for new KX1

In reply to this post by John Huggins, kx4o

John :

As Don, W3FPR says, be sure to follow the instructions carefully and most importantly pay attention to the warnings regarding component height
as it very important. If you install a component with too much lead length (i.e. sticking up too high above the main board) it may impact the installation
of the KXB3080 or the ATU. I found that a small 6" plastic ruler was very helpful during the build to measure component height.

The physical packaging of the KX1 is a marvel .. I am sure that they must have used 3D CAD software to figure this all
out as there are a lot of components on multiple boards packed into a pretty tight space in three dimensions.

Just take your time, double check you have the right component and location before soldering and you will do fine.

Best of luck and have fun with the build.

Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB (KX1, K1 & K2 builder)

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