Tororids

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Tororids

Al & Dianne Bruce

        I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
      of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
      solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
      interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
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RE: Tororids

Rich McCabe (IWH)
No it won't but not sure that is going to help you.

What method are you using to tin the leads?

I as well as most others have had great success just burning the enamel off
with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep feeding
fresh solder to it with the  winding lead on the iron. The enamel always
melts and the impurities flow away.

You need to get that coating removed 100%.

Tell us a little more about your technique.

Rich
Kd0zv




-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Al & Dianne Bruce
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:46 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids


        I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
      of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
      solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
      interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
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Re: Tororids

Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
Perhaps, I will run afoul with the list crowd, but from the get go on my
first Elecraft kit, a K1, S/N 02326 (finished 5 days ago), I could not
get fond of burning the enamel off.  I tried the fine sand paper route
wrapping a 3 inch long X .5 in wide strip around a plastic drinking
straw and securing with tape at just the ends of the wrap.  That worked
but was far too slow.  So, I went back to the way I had done it as a kid
and used a small sharp pen knife at 30 degree angle away from the toroid
while rotating the wire.  I found I had the best control using the pen
knife, being able to start the stripping precisely where I wanted.  I
wore magnifying safety glasses and made no nicks that I could see.  The
K1 fired up perfectly the first time and has been running ever since
(about a week).  22 countries and 17 states worked so far on solar
power.  Love this little radio.

Jozef WB2MIC
Wells VT

Rich McCabe (IWH) wrote:

> No it won't but not sure that is going to help you.
>
> What method are you using to tin the leads?
>
> I as well as most others have had great success just burning the enamel off
> with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep feeding
> fresh solder to it with the  winding lead on the iron. The enamel always
> melts and the impurities flow away.
>
> You need to get that coating removed 100%.
>
> Tell us a little more about your technique.
>
> Rich
> Kd0zv
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Al & Dianne Bruce
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:46 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids
>
>
>         I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
>       of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
>       solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
>       interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
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>
>  
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Re: Tororids

Steve Banks
In reply to this post by Al & Dianne Bruce
Al and/or Dianne,

If you have a Hakko-style soldering pump similar to the Model 808, its nozzle (ordinarily used for desoldering) makes a great way to heat and apply solder to the varnished leads to remove varnish and tin them quickly.

Prior to using that technique (recently suggested on this reflector),  I used a combination of candle or butane- lighter flame, fine-grit sandpaper and an occasional light coating of flux to get the job done to my satisfaction.

Whatever method you adopt just be sure that the finished solder joints are completed with a proper "wet" look, and measure their resistance to the PCB board. Obviously, be sure to remove any residual traces of flux that may remain behind too.

73
Steve Banks
K0PQ
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile  

-----Original Message-----
From: "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 07:46:13
To:<[hidden email]>
Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids


        I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
      of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
      solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
      interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
_______________________________________________
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Post to: [hidden email]
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Re: Tororids

Tom Hammond-3
In reply to this post by Al & Dianne Bruce
Hi Al (or is it Dianne?)... no sig, can't tell... sorry!

>I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
>of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
>solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
>interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?

Adding flux won't hurt... BUT, it won't help either!!!

Chances are that it's HEAT you're lacking!

1) What are you using for your soldering device?

2) Is is controllable with regard to temperature?

3) How long are you applying the heat to the wire?

4) Are you starting at the CUT END of the wire, or
    at the middle of the wire?

Here's the technique which I've used for years. It's seldom failed
to yield satisfactory results:

1) MAKE CERTAIN THE WIRE YOU WANT TO TIN USES HEAT-STRIPPABLE ENAMEL
    (otherwise, you'll waste a LOT of time...)

2) Cut the wire to length

3) Set soldering iron to STUN (actually, 750-800 deg F) and allow
    it to come up to temp.

4) Set iron on desk so the FLAT of the tip is horizontal.

5) Melt a small blob of solder onto the flat side of the tip.

6) Insert the CLIPPED TIP(!) of the wire into the solder blob and
    leave it there for 3-4 seconds. If you really DO have heat-
    strippable enamel AND if the iron tip temp is adequate, the
    enamel should begin to bubble and smoke in 3-4 seconds (IF you
    stuck the CUT (bare copper) tip of the wire into the solder).

7) Once the enamel starts to bubble and smoke, apply a bit more
    solder to the tip and advance the wire thru the 'blob', until
    you've melted all of the enamel and left a coating of solder on
    the wire.

8) Reverse the process... slowly remove the wire be pulling it out
    of the blob in the same manner as when you inserted it. This
    should leave you with a nicely tinned lead, but possibly one
    with some 'dross' remaining on the lead. 'Dross' is the burnt
    enamel which can usually be pretty easily stripped off the lead
    by merely scraping a fingernail against it.

It is IMPORTANT to insert the CLIPPED TIP of the wire into the solder
blow, because you want the bare copper to be the first thing to
contact the heat... bare copper conducts heat MUCH more quickly than
trying to 'force' the heat thru a layer of enamel.

Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


   

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Re: Tororids

Jacques Gaudron
In reply to this post by Steve Banks
Hi Steve
My mail went begfre I read yours...!
73
Jacques
F9OJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>; "Elecraft"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tororids


> Al and/or Dianne,
>
> If you have a Hakko-style soldering pump similar to the Model 808, its
nozzle (ordinarily used for desoldering) makes a great way to heat and apply
solder to the varnished leads to remove varnish and tin them quickly.
>
> Prior to using that technique (recently suggested on this reflector),  I
used a combination of candle or butane- lighter flame, fine-grit sandpaper
and an occasional light coating of flux to get the job done to my
satisfaction.
>
> Whatever method you adopt just be sure that the finished solder joints are
completed with a proper "wet" look, and measure their resistance to the PCB
board. Obviously, be sure to remove any residual traces of flux that may
remain behind too.

>
> 73
> Steve Banks
> K0PQ
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 07:46:13
> To:<[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids
>
>
>         I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
>       of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
>       solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
>       interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>


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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.0/689 - Release Date: 15/02/07
17:40


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Re: Tororids

Jim AB3CV
In reply to this post by Tom Hammond-3
I use the solder blob approach and one trick I found is that taking a couple
of swipes with a piece of fine grit sandpaper pinched around the wire really
helps with making the solder blob approach go much faster.

Like others mentioned: high heat and continuous feed of rosin core solder is
necessary.

A final pass with a clean iron and fresh solder makes for a nice clean shiny
coat.

I also hold the core on a piece of dowel or a chopstick to avoid burning my
fingers.

73

jim ab3cv

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Re: Tororids

Jacques Gaudron
In reply to this post by Al & Dianne Bruce
Sorry, I meant BEFORE, not "begfre"....
Jacques
----- Original Message -----
From: "f9oj.7" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>; "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>;
"Elecraft" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tororids


> Hi Steve
> My mail went begfre I read yours...!
> 73
> Jacques
> F9OJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[hidden email]>
> To: "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>; "Elecraft"
> <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 1:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tororids
>
>
> > Al and/or Dianne,
> >
> > If you have a Hakko-style soldering pump similar to the Model 808, its
> nozzle (ordinarily used for desoldering) makes a great way to heat and
apply
> solder to the varnished leads to remove varnish and tin them quickly.
> >
> > Prior to using that technique (recently suggested on this reflector),  I
> used a combination of candle or butane- lighter flame, fine-grit sandpaper
> and an occasional light coating of flux to get the job done to my
> satisfaction.
> >
> > Whatever method you adopt just be sure that the finished solder joints
are
> completed with a proper "wet" look, and measure their resistance to the
PCB

> board. Obviously, be sure to remove any residual traces of flux that may
> remain behind too.
> >
> > 73
> > Steve Banks
> > K0PQ
> > Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "Al & Dianne Bruce" <[hidden email]>
> > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 07:46:13
> > To:<[hidden email]>
> > Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids
> >
> >
> >         I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
> >       of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
> >       solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
> >       interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: [hidden email]
> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> >  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> >
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

> ----
>
>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: [hidden email]
> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> >  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
>
>
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.0/689 - Release Date: 15/02/07
> 17:40
>


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Re: Tororids

Bob Nielsen
In reply to this post by Rich McCabe (IWH)
I recall at one time downloading a short video showing the solder  
blob method of stripping enamel from wires.  I found it to be quite  
helpful and believe it was from the Emtech web site, but can't locate  
the URL.  Perhaps someone on the list has this bookmarked and can  
post it.

Bob, N7XY

On Mar 6, 2007, at 5:06 AM, Rich McCabe (IWH) wrote:

> No it won't but not sure that is going to help you.
>
> What method are you using to tin the leads?
>
> I as well as most others have had great success just burning the  
> enamel off
> with solder and an iron. I keep a 40 watt iron hot and just keep  
> feeding
> fresh solder to it with the  winding lead on the iron. The enamel  
> always
> melts and the impurities flow away.
>
> You need to get that coating removed 100%.
>
> Tell us a little more about your technique.
>
> Rich
> Kd0zv
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Al & Dianne  
> Bruce
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:46 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [Elecraft] Tororids
>
>
>         I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite
>       of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept
>       solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux
>       interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ?
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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