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Upgrade question

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Jim Giercyk

Upgrade question

Hello all,

I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the soldering iron and digging in again. My K2, #1998, was one of the earlier kits. It is a revision A. Right now it has the 160 board, internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to be done to make it current. I plan to add the SSB module, and eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a level playing field? I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my one-and-only.

I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but none on desoldering. Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see a lopt of that in my future. Thanks guys and gals,

Jim

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Upgrade question

Jim,

Download the A to B instructions from the Elecraft website and look at
the list of mods included with that document - then download the
instructions for each of those mods. Then you can compare those mods
with your physical K2 to see if any have already been installed. Order
the mod kits required and the K2ATOBKT. That will bring your K2 up to date.

On de-soldering, if you have a desoldering iron such as the Hakko 808,
then use it to remove components. If you lack de-soldering equipment,
the best way to remove components is to clip off the leads (in some
cases it is necessary to destroy the component - use pliers to crush
it), and then remove the leads one at a time. Clean the holes with
solder wick, and if solder remains in the hole, it may be cleared while
heated with a toothpick or a stainless steel needle. By all means,
preserve the board, it is more valuable than any one component.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the
> soldering iron and digging in again. My K2, #1998, was one of the
> earlier kits. It is a revision A. Right now it has the 160 board,
> internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.
>
> I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to
> be done to make it current. I plan to add the SSB module, and
> eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
> the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
> level playing field? I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my
> one-and-only.
>
> I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but
> none on desoldering. Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see
> a lopt of that in my future. Thanks guys and gals,
>
> Jim
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date: 1/28/2009 6:37 AM
>
>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

Jim,

I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically. A
set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is
installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15. There is no need
to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched
sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option,
you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:

Guy, K2AV

Re: Upgrade question

I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239, including the
matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2. What a difference.

It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2 to talk
to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting use. I
can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp skirts to
match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done, the work
turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The first
two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a 250 Hz
resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement
capabilities.

Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of ugly SWR
is not a problem, just use the auto-tune. Then again, maybe it's the mojo
that makes the run.

I carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the feed and
it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy. Never gets
fooled by close BC stations. Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie to sniff
out an HF feedline break.

73, Guy K2AV
K2/K3 #1239

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

> Jim,
>
> I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
> replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically. A
> set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is
> installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15. There is no need
> to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched
> sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option,
> you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jim Giercyk wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the
>> soldering iron and digging in again. My K2, #1998, was one of the
>> earlier kits. It is a revision A. Right now it has the 160 board,
>> internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.
>>
>> I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to
>> be done to make it current. I plan to add the SSB module, and
>> eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
>> the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
>> level playing field? I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my
>> one-and-only.
>>
>> I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but
>> none on desoldering. Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see
>> a lopt of that in my future. Thanks guys and gals,
>>
>> Jim
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Post to: [hidden email]
>> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date:
>> 1/28/2009 6:37 AM
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

Jim Giercyk

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

Thanks guys! I purchased all of the updates from A to B. It looks like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like. I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out. Any tips on removing them without damaging the board? Since they are up against the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out. Thanks again,

Jim
N2SUB

--- [hidden email] wrote:

From: "Guy Olinger, K2AV" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>, <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500

I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239, including the
matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2. What a difference.

It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2 to talk
to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting use. I
can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp skirts to
match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done, the work
turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The first
two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a 250 Hz
resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement
capabilities.

Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of ugly SWR
is not a problem, just use the auto-tune. Then again, maybe it's the mojo
that makes the run.

I carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the feed and
it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy. Never gets
fooled by close BC stations. Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie to sniff
out an HF feedline break.

73, Guy K2AV
K2/K3 #1239

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

John Lonigro

Re: Upgrade question

Jim:
I don't think that should be a problem. The crystal has only 2 leads,
so if you can pull it a little while heating up one of the leads, the
end you are heating will break loose. Do the same with the other lead
and it should come out painlessly. Then clean up the holes in the PCB.
You probably won't even damage the old crystals. If you want to remove
a component with more than 2 leads, then it gets trickier because the
multiple leads that aren't being heated are enough to hold the component
in place. That's when it's usually best to destroy the component and
remove the leads one at a time. Not so with a crystal (or other 2 lead
components).

Good luck and 73's,
John AA0VE

Jim Giercyk wrote:
> Thanks guys! I purchased all of the updates from A to B. It looks like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like. I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out. Any tips on removing them without damaging the board? Since they are up against the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out. Thanks again,
>
> Jim
> N2SUB
>
>
>
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

Jim,

To remove the crystals, first clip off the ground lead. Then most
likely you can heat one of the pins while putting a bit of pressure
against the side of the crystal. As soon as you feel it move, heat the
other pin and repeat. It will get easier after 2 or 3 passes, and you
can get the crystal out one lead at a time.

Alternately, if you have 2 soldering irons, you can heat both pins at
once. The leads are not connected to the case, so the case will not act
as a big heat sink.

Be gentle so you do not damage the board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:
> Thanks guys! I purchased all of the updates from A to B. It looks like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like. I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out. Any tips on removing them without damaging the board? Since they are up against the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out. Thanks again,
>
> Jim
> N2SUB
>
>
>
>
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Joe Planisky

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

Hi Jim,

I've had good results using a GC Electronics "Solder Popper" (part #
12-2157). It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded
solder sucker. While it's certainly not equal to something like a
Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use. And at less than $40,
it's about 1/4 the cost.

Note, however, that it seems to run hotter than a normal iron, so you
have to be careful not to linger on PC board connections. It would be
a good idea to try it on some junk PC boards to get a feel for it
before using it on your K2.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 29, 2009, at 6:41 AM, Jim Giercyk wrote:

> Thanks guys! I purchased all of the updates from A to B. It looks
> like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to
> get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig
> sounds like. I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading
> taking the old ones out. Any tips on removing them without damaging
> the board? Since they are up against the board it's impossible to
> cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm
> thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out. Thanks again,
>
> Jim
> N2SUB
>
>
>
> --- [hidden email] wrote:
>
> From: "Guy Olinger, K2AV" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>, <[hidden email]>
> Cc: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500
>
> I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239,
> including the
> matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2. What a difference.
>
> It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2
> to talk
> to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting
> use. I
> can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.
>
> It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp
> skirts to
> match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done,
> the work
> turned the K2 into a red-hot box.
>
> I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The
> first
> two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a
> 250 Hz
> resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement
> capabilities.
>
> Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of
> ugly SWR
> is not a problem, just use the auto-tune. Then again, maybe it's
> the mojo
> that makes the run.
>
> I carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the
> feed and
> it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.
> Never gets
> fooled by close BC stations. Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie
> to sniff
> out an HF feedline break.
>
> 73, Guy K2AV
> K2/K3 #1239
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Cc: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
>
>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
>> replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve
>> dramatically. A
>> set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2
>> is
>> installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15. There is no
>> need
>> to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2
>> matched
>> sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2
>> option,
>> you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jim Giercyk wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up
>>> the
>>> soldering iron and digging in again. My K2, #1998, was one of the
>>> earlier kits. It is a revision A. Right now it has the 160 board,
>>> internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.
>>>
>>> I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need
>>> to
>>> be done to make it current. I plan to add the SSB module, and
>>> eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
>>> the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
>>> level playing field? I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is
>>> my
>>> one-and-only.
>>>
>>> I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering,
>>> but
>>> none on desoldering. Any good ideas would be appreciated since I
>>> see
>>> a lopt of that in my future. Thanks guys and gals,
>>>
>>> Jim
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Post to: [hidden email]
>>> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>>> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>>> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date:
>>> 1/28/2009 6:37 AM
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Post to: [hidden email]
>> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

Bill Johnson-9

K3 feature request: Save Menu's states

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

Could the state of the Menu's be left at last position when turning the rig
on and off? Right now it appears they revert back to the beginning. I
would like to resume where I left off when I turn the rig on.

73,

Bill
K9YEQ

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wayne burdick

Re: K3 feature request: Save Menu's states

Administrator

We originally did this, Bill, but here's the problem. Those new to the
K3 sometimes forget that VFO B scrolls the menu entry and VFO A
modifies the parameters. If the last-selected menu entry is in effect
on power-up, you can inadvertently change something important by
spinning VFO A. We initialize the menus to benign entries (MAIN:LCD BRT
and CONFIG:FW REVS) so there's no consequence of mixing up the two
knobs.

There are many subtleties to user interface design, and it'll never be
perfect for everyone. I feel that this is an important design choice
that should remain in place.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Bill Johnson wrote:

> Could the state of the Menu's be left at last position when turning
> the rig
> on and off? Right now it appears they revert back to the beginning. I
> would like to resume where I left off when I turn the rig on.

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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ka5oai

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Joe Planisky

Joe Planisky wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> I've had good results using a GC Electronics "Solder Popper" (part #
> 12-2157). It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded
> solder sucker. While it's certainly not equal to something like a
> Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use. And at less than $40,
> it's about 1/4 the cost.
>
I made a homebrew version of that using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
removed the rubber bulb and added a piece of clear tubing and:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745
total cost about $20.00

I used it for removing the 14 xtals in my K2 just a few weeks ago
worked just fine. If you have a little solder left in the hole that doesn't want
to come out (after the xtal is removed) just add a little solder to the hole,
then use the sucker again, and it will remove it all, resulting in a clean hole.

--
GB & 73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
_______________________________________________
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73 & GB
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan

AC7AC

Re: Upgrade question

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Bill Johnson-9

Re: K3 feature request: Save Menu's states

In reply to this post by wayne burdick

Wayne,

Thank you for the info.

Makes sense to leave it where it is. There is so much to learn with rigs
these days it can be difficult to remember it all. I cannot tell you how
much I appreciate the quality of the radio. I haven't turned on my other HF
equipment because of the K3. (I do use the ts2000 for independent VHF UHF
monitoring. That will change once the independent VFO on separate bands
becomes a reality for the K3. Then I will probably add the Xverters, etc.,

73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

-----Original Message-----
From: wayne burdick [mailto:[hidden email]]

There are many subtleties to user interface design, and it'll never be
perfect for everyone. I feel that this is an important design choice
that should remain in place.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Bill Johnson wrote:

> Could the state of the Menu's be left at last position when turning
> the rig
> on and off? Right now it appears they revert back to the beginning. I
> would like to resume where I left off when I turn the rig on.

_______________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: [hidden email]
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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Jim Giercyk

Re: Upgrade question

In reply to this post by Jim Giercyk

All,

Believe it or not, I already own both of the RS items. I abandon the desoldering iron because of the temperature issue Ron mentioned. I feel that the sucker doesn't really cut it as far as vacuum power. I was planning on using my Weller WES50 station and the trusty old Sold-a-pult. I guess I panic whenever there is a chance the a board could get destroyed. It seems the consensus is that the rock-and-pull method should work without a problem assuming the temperature is kept low enough.

I guess the next logical question would be, "What's the difference between the old and new crystals?". Were the older crystals of inferior quality? Thanks to everyone,

Jim

--- [hidden email] wrote:

From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
To: "'elecraft Reflector'" <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:58:47 -0800

These are inexpensive and effective desoldering tools, but be aware they are
*not* temperature controlled. The tip temperature can soar to well over
800F, especially while sitting on the cradle, then drop too low if you are
removing parts from board that includes a fair-sized ground plane. Such heat
extremes - too high or so low the iron is on the board too long - can easily
debond (lift) circuit traces and do other nasty stuff.

That's why Elecraft calls for a temperature-controlled iron in all the
manuals and mod instructions. It's the temperature control that causes most
of the price difference.

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 9:27 AM
To: Joe Planisky
Cc: elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

Joe Planisky wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> I've had good results using a GC Electronics "Solder Popper" (part #
> 12-2157). It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded
> solder sucker. While it's certainly not equal to something like a
> Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use. And at less than $40,
> it's about 1/4 the cost.
>
I made a homebrew version of that using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
removed the rubber bulb and added a piece of clear tubing and:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745
total cost about $20.00

I used it for removing the 14 xtals in my K2 just a few weeks ago
worked just fine. If you have a little solder left in the hole that doesn't
want
to come out (after the xtal is removed) just add a little solder to the
hole,
then use the sucker again, and it will remove it all, resulting in a clean
hole.

--
GB & 73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Upgrade question

Jim,

The 'old' crystals were used in K2s prior to SN 2560, so if your SN is
higher, you have the newer crystals.
The old crystals quality was not inferior - as quality is normally
measured for crystals used for oscillators and such. However, Elecraft
tightened the specs on the motional parameters with the crystal
manufacturer, and the new crystals are more tightly controlled for the
parameters that matter most in a crystal filter.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:
> I guess the next logical question would be, "What's the difference between the old and new crystals?". Were the older crystals of inferior quality? Thanks to everyone,
>
> Jim
>
>
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