Yahoo-o-o-o-o !!
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KPA100 and KDSP2 kits were delivered today! I am making fine progress on my K2 build and really am enjoying the experience. Have plenty of building to keep me busy. Elecraft is a great company and this has been a great experience. Will keep you posted.
73, Mike N4JX K1/4 2319 on the air K2/100 6042 under construction! _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Yes, they sure are fun to build and tune, and very fun to use.
Maybe its because I built it, but I have more fun with the K2 than I thought I would, and I have not even had a QSO with it yet. I have just been relearning the code, playing with the built in antenna tuner, comparing antennas (butternut vert and home brew G5RV) listening on all the bands, etc. AM on 40 meters has been dead, 80 meters is washed out in the daytime, so I have not been playing with the homebrew AM gear but spending an hour or more each night plus weekends listening to CW on the K2. It seems like there is always some CW around, even slower stuff that I can copy. I also wont have to worry about the high power AM getting into peoples phones and VCR's I suppose, so I could operate at any time day or night. I am even thinking of running coax to the den so I can listen to CW while the wife watches TV. The K2 is small enough so I could do that... Can anyone recommend a good basic key? I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. Enjoy building your stuff, its great fun. Brett N2DTS > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mike Geddes > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:49 PM > To: Elecraft > Subject: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > > KPA100 and KDSP2 kits were delivered today! I am making fine > progress on my K2 build and really am enjoying the > experience. Have plenty of building to keep me busy. > Elecraft is a great company and this has been a great > experience. Will keep you posted. > > 73, > Mike > N4JX > > K1/4 2319 on the air > K2/100 6042 under construction! > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Just get a paddle and use the internal keyer. You can't beat it!
73, Tom KG3V Quoting Brett gazdzinski <[hidden email]>: > Yes, they sure are fun to build and tune, and very fun to use. > Maybe its because I built it, but I have more fun with the K2 > than I thought I would, and I have not even had a QSO with it yet. > > I have just been relearning the code, playing with the > built in antenna tuner, comparing antennas (butternut vert and > home brew G5RV) listening on all the bands, etc. > > AM on 40 meters has been dead, 80 meters is washed out > in the daytime, so I have not been playing with the > homebrew AM gear but spending an hour or more each night > plus weekends listening to CW on the K2. > > It seems like there is always some CW around, even slower > stuff that I can copy. > > I also wont have to worry about the high power AM getting > into peoples phones and VCR's I suppose, so I could operate > at any time day or night. > > I am even thinking of running coax to the den so > I can listen to CW while the wife watches TV. > The K2 is small enough so I could do that... > > Can anyone recommend a good basic key? > I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts > are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. > > Enjoy building your stuff, its great fun. > > Brett > N2DTS > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [hidden email] > > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mike Geddes > > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:49 PM > > To: Elecraft > > Subject: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > > > > KPA100 and KDSP2 kits were delivered today! I am making fine > > progress on my K2 build and really am enjoying the > > experience. Have plenty of building to keep me busy. > > Elecraft is a great company and this has been a great > > experience. Will keep you posted. > > > > 73, > > Mike > > N4JX > > > > K1/4 2319 on the air > > K2/100 6042 under construction! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: [hidden email] > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Actually, I think most ops would suggest a straight key until you are up to
around 10 wpm, and then learn the paddle. Until you know what code is supposed to sound like, you'll not be able to tame the paddle. Of course, that's just my opinion, AND, I was drinking when I learned the code - many years ago. Ah, yes, the Code Practice sessions, down at the local bar. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 Just get a paddle and use the internal keyer. You can't beat it! 73, Tom KG3V <snip> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Mike Geddes
I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's in the past, like 20 years ago. Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super.... I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters but drool them all together. I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. (remember THEM?) I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 years, and don't think it was ever very quality... Brett N2DTS > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[hidden email]] > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM > To: Brett gazdzinski > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > > Hi Brett: > > >Can anyone recommend a good basic key? > >I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts > >are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. > > Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? > > If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, > I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but > something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully > intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of > sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent > straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist > goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears > of the op on the other end. > > If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much > you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to > use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the > length of time you'll use it. > > Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get > terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably > a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what > it'll be worth to you. > > Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range > of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. > > Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on > the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. > > Regarding your R/S brass straight key: > > 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' > down to the point that they make good electrical contact but > NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! > > 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! > > NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the > contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed > in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd > swipe! > > A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful > job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any > exists). > > 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). > > 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to > your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT > have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer > some resistance > > 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile > AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a > business card is a good starting point for setting beginning > contact spacing. > > 6) PRACTICE A LOT > > 73, > > Tom Hammond N0SS > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I will take issue that using a bug or keyer is "cheating". I can copy
CW at 30 wpm but there is no way that I can send that fast using a straight key, nor can any other ham that I know. There are multiple CW sending skills that include straight key, bug, single and dual lever paddles, and touch keys. Each has its place and I like to be good at all of them through practice. As for high speed CW, it's not a matter of "razzle and dazzle" bur rather (for me) being the best one can be. A good CW QSO at 15 wpm is a pleasure, indeed. But, I prefer a much faster CW QSO. I cannot help but admire Theodore Roosevelt McElroy and his ability to copy CW at 77 WPM. See: http://www.telegraph-office.com/pages/mcelroy.html This was an amazing accomplishment as were his famous McElroy speed keys (bugs). I would hardly call McElroy's using his keys as "cheating". Jozef Hand-Boniakowski WB2MIC Wells VT Brett gazdzinski wrote: > > I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's > in the past, like 20 years ago. > > Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super.... > > I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very > poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who > always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... > > I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters > but drool them all together. > > I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind > of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be > entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with > my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? > My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. > (remember THEM?) > > I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 > years, and don't think it was ever very quality... > > Brett > N2DTS > > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[hidden email]] >> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM >> To: Brett gazdzinski >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! >> >> Hi Brett: >> >> >>> Can anyone recommend a good basic key? >>> I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts >>> are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. >>> >> Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? >> >> If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, >> I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but >> something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully >> intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of >> sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent >> straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist >> goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears >> of the op on the other end. >> >> If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much >> you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to >> use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the >> length of time you'll use it. >> >> Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get >> terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably >> a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what >> it'll be worth to you. >> >> Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range >> of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. >> >> Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on >> the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. >> >> Regarding your R/S brass straight key: >> >> 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' >> down to the point that they make good electrical contact but >> NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! >> >> 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! >> >> NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the >> contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed >> in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd >> swipe! >> >> A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful >> job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any >> exists). >> >> 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). >> >> 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to >> your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT >> have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer >> some resistance >> >> 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile >> AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a >> business card is a good starting point for setting beginning >> contact spacing. >> >> 6) PRACTICE A LOT >> >> 73, >> >> Tom Hammond N0SS >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Brett gazdzinski-2
I agree 100%, but people aren't learning code sitting at their elmer's
knee anymore. They are buying a three dollar key and hammering away. I hear all crap all the time. Then they try to go faster, or put a little swing in it. Don't get me started..... All of this is probably not a big deal for someone with many of hours of CW under their belt. They can sort the wheat from the chaff and figure it out. Often as not, I am struggling to understand them in the first place. If they start running the letters together, I have to just turn the dial, because I can't even start to make sense of them. I agree standard wisdom in the past was to start with a straight key, but if they are sitting down by themselves, with a straight key, how are they supposed to know how to send good code? If they get good with a paddle and keyer, then they might know what it sounds like, and they will have a starting point from which to try to mimic the sounds with a straight key. Back when whomever it was that said to start with a straight key, there were probably many great brass pounders out there to listen to. I have heard K4UK, from FISTs, send beautiful code with a straight key. Many, including myself, cannot do that. On the few times I do use a straight key, I take my time and try to make it sound just like it does with the keyer. As pointed out though, even a paddle doesn't stop them from running the letters together. That really does drive me nuts. I promise to stay off my soapbox for a while. David Wilburn [hidden email] K4DGW K2 #5982 Brett gazdzinski wrote: > > I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's > in the past, like 20 years ago. > > Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super.... > > I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very > poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who > always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... > > I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters > but drool them all together. > > I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind > of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be > entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with > my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? > My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. > (remember THEM?) > > I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 > years, and don't think it was ever very quality... > > Brett > N2DTS > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[hidden email]] >> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM >> To: Brett gazdzinski >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! >> >> Hi Brett: >> >>> Can anyone recommend a good basic key? >>> I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts >>> are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. >> Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? >> >> If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, >> I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but >> something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully >> intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of >> sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent >> straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist >> goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears >> of the op on the other end. >> >> If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much >> you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to >> use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the >> length of time you'll use it. >> >> Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get >> terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably >> a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what >> it'll be worth to you. >> >> Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range >> of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. >> >> Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on >> the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. >> >> Regarding your R/S brass straight key: >> >> 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' >> down to the point that they make good electrical contact but >> NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! >> >> 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! >> >> NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the >> contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed >> in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd >> swipe! >> >> A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful >> job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any >> exists). >> >> 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). >> >> 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to >> your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT >> have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer >> some resistance >> >> 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile >> AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a >> business card is a good starting point for setting beginning >> contact spacing. >> >> 6) PRACTICE A LOT >> >> 73, >> >> Tom Hammond N0SS >> > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Brett gazdzinski-2
With practice you'll send excellent CW even with a simple home-made key
fashioned from a hacksaw blade. After more than 50 years pounding brass both as a Ham and in military/commercial service, I seldom found any significant difference in *most* straight keys. The major difference that I have noted is that some are designed to be operated with the arm held entirely in the air while others are designed for one's arm to rest on the desk. The arm-in-the-air style seem popular in some countries other than the USA and we're starting to see more of those imported here. Typically they have a much, much stronger spring to resist the weight of the operator's arm. I'm a arm-on-the-desk sender but do not move my wrist when sending. It's all done by rocking my whole forearm up and down. That prevents a "glass arm" or muscle cramps that come from long sessions. If you think sending with a bug (a mechanical semi-automatic key) is "cheating" I'll respectfully suggest that you've probably never really tried to use a bug. They are much, much more challenging than a straight key. While they allow faster sending, their real value is in *easier* sending once you master their operation. It's a simple rolling action of the hand back and forth that you can do for hours with no fatigue. Again the hand and fingers do not move in normal bug sending. That prevents the aforementioned "glass arm" syndrome again. In most commercial circuits, operators using bugs almost never exceeded 15 wpm or so and sometimes their employers supplied bugs had their weights welded in place to prevent faster sending. Working at a slower WPM rate moved traffic faster by avoiding the need for lots of "fills" and correcting mistakes. Some private circuits, especially government and military operations where the same operators were on both ends of the circuit day after day, saw some operators develop really fantastic speeds, but they were the exception rather than the norm. Commercial operators at shore stations in the maritime service had to copy and send legibly to all sorts of CW operators at sea, some who barely knew CW and sent even less well. It was the shore station operator's job to keep those ships calling back to send and receive traffic. That's how they made money. Those operators had to be good enough that no matter how bad the guy on the ship sent or how poorly he received, he felt like he was a perfect CW operator after working the shore station. So, often, shore based CW ops had to slow w-a-y down for them when sending and then be able to read near-gibberish when receiving. That ability, not raw speed, is the real skill in commercial CW operating, and I submit the same is true on the Ham bands. I recommend practicing your sending using a CW reader software such as CW GET. It's pretty fussy. It wants to see perfect spacing to print out correctly, so it's a good, tough monitor. But don't get discouraged. CW is like speech. No two 'voices' are exactly the same, nor do they need to be. Before the days of keyers and keyboards we could scan the bands and pick out operators we knew by their fists without waiting for a call sign. But that doesn't mean they were hard to copy. Again, it's like language. The more fluent you are in it, the more quickly you can understand in spite of some "accents" that make individuals sound different. Like speech, the challenge is to keep one's accent under control and learn to read CW well enough to understand it easily in spite of an accent at the other end. After all, any computer can copy perfect machine code. What us Humans can do that computers can't (yet) is copy code that is less than machine-perfect. It takes a little practice, though, especially if you learned CW on machine generated code or if you learned using a system that allowed abnormal spacing to allow you extra time to think about the letters (e.g. Farnsworth). Those are good learning tools, but they're only the first step. Once a new operator masters that, he/she can start learning to copy CW in the "real world" of fists and bugs and perhaps even a few drunken brass pounders on the bands <G>. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Brett gazdzinski Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 11:55 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's in the past, like 20 years ago. Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super.... I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters but drool them all together. I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. (remember THEM?) I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 years, and don't think it was ever very quality... Brett N2DTS > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[hidden email]] > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM > To: Brett gazdzinski > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > > Hi Brett: > > >Can anyone recommend a good basic key? > >I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts > >are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. > > Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? > > If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, > I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but > something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully > intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of > sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent > straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist > goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears > of the op on the other end. > > If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much > you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to > use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the > length of time you'll use it. > > Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get > terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably > a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what > it'll be worth to you. > > Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range > of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. > > Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on > the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. > > Regarding your R/S brass straight key: > > 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' > down to the point that they make good electrical contact but > NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! > > 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! > > NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the > contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed > in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd > swipe! > > A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful > job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any > exists). > > 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). > > 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to > your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT > have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer > some resistance > > 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile > AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a > business card is a good starting point for setting beginning > contact spacing. > > 6) PRACTICE A LOT > > 73, > > Tom Hammond N0SS > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by dave.wilburn
Agree. There is no reason to use a straight key, but if you like it, that is
fine. It will hinder you if you eventually want to go much faster, and I believe it will cause more fatigue too. The idea that you NEED to use a straight key before you use a paddle, I just don't buy, especially if you already know the code. To me, this is like saying you have to shoot a pistol before you try a rifle. To each his own. ... enough of this, back to Elecraft gear...... 73, Tom KG3V Quoting David Wilburn <[hidden email]>: > I agree 100%, but people aren't learning code sitting at their elmer's > knee anymore. They are buying a three dollar key and hammering away. I > hear all crap all the time. Then they try to go faster, or put a little > swing in it. Don't get me started..... > > All of this is probably not a big deal for someone with many of hours of > CW under their belt. They can sort the wheat from the chaff and figure > it out. Often as not, I am struggling to understand them in the first > place. If they start running the letters together, I have to just turn > the dial, because I can't even start to make sense of them. > > I agree standard wisdom in the past was to start with a straight key, > but if they are sitting down by themselves, with a straight key, how are > they supposed to know how to send good code? If they get good with a > paddle and keyer, then they might know what it sounds like, and they > will have a starting point from which to try to mimic the sounds with a > straight key. Back when whomever it was that said to start with a > straight key, there were probably many great brass pounders out there to > listen to. I have heard K4UK, from FISTs, send beautiful code with a > straight key. Many, including myself, cannot do that. > > On the few times I do use a straight key, I take my time and try to make > it sound just like it does with the keyer. > > As pointed out though, even a paddle doesn't stop them from running the > letters together. That really does drive me nuts. > > I promise to stay off my soapbox for a while. > > David Wilburn > [hidden email] > K4DGW > K2 #5982 > > > Brett gazdzinski wrote: > > > > I never used a paddle or keyer, but have had hundreds of long QSO's > > in the past, like 20 years ago. > > > > Like everyone else, I think my sending sounds super.... > > > > I know what good CW sounds like, and there is a lot of very > > poor stuff on the air, last night I heard someone who > > always sent an extra dot on the letters S and H... > > > > I have most problems coping when people do not separate the letters > > but drool them all together. > > > > I like a straight key, never used any sort of bug or keyer, and kind > > of think that's cheating, I am not after DX nor will I be > > entering any contests, and don't want to dazzle anyone with > > my 95 wpm CW, I think you can do it with computers now, cant you? > > My old VIC 20 with the AIR1 card did that I think. > > (remember THEM?) > > > > I will try cleaning my old key up, its been sitting for about 20 > > years, and don't think it was ever very quality... > > > > Brett > > N2DTS > > > > > > > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[hidden email]] > >> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:25 PM > >> To: Brett gazdzinski > >> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > >> > >> Hi Brett: > >> > >>> Can anyone recommend a good basic key? > >>> I have an old radio shack brass but the contacts > >>> are shot I think, it acts a bit funky sometimes. > >> Are you looking for a STRAIGHT KEY, or a PADDLE? > >> > >> If you plan to actually WORK CW and to improve your CW proficiency, > >> I'd not recommend that you invest too heavily in a straight key, but > >> something in the <$20 range might work well... UNLESS you fully > >> intend to NOT graduate up to using a keyer once you hit your limit of > >> sending speed with straight hand-sent CW. Most folks can send decent > >> straight-key-sent CW up to about 20-23 WPM, but then the arm/wrist > >> goes and quality begins to suffer... as does the body... and the ears > >> of the op on the other end. > >> > >> If you intend up eventually switch to a keyer, then decide how much > >> you're willing to invest in a straight key... how long you plan to > >> use it... and whether the investment is well-amortized over the > >> length of time you'll use it. > >> > >> Paddles are available for $20 on up. I'm not certain they get > >> terribly much BETTER with a significant increase in price... probably > >> a bit better, however. It'll be up to you to decide what > >> it'll be worth to you. > >> > >> Morse Express ( http://www.morsex.com/ )offers a fairly wide range > >> of STRAIGHT KEYS/BUG/PADDLES in an even wider range of prices. > >> > >> Of course, there are always all sorts of keys/paddles available on > >> the EHAM.COM FOR SALE site and in EBAY. > >> > >> Regarding your R/S brass straight key: > >> > >> 1) Be sure that the bearings are properly seated and 'snugged' > >> down to the point that they make good electrical contact but > >> NOT so tight that the armature doesn't work smoothly! > >> > >> 2) Use a DOLLAR BILL between the contacts to clean them!!! > >> > >> NEVER use anything which is abrasive!!! PERIOD!!! If the > >> contacts happen to be silver/ or gold plated, you'll succeed > >> in removing all traces of the plating with the 1st or 2nd > >> swipe! > >> > >> A U.S. DOLLAR BILL has high rag content and does a wonderful > >> job of removing oxidation without removing plating (if any > >> exists). > >> > >> 3) TIGHTEN all electrical connection hardware (exc. the bearings). > >> > >> 4) Set the spring tension such that there is enough resistance to > >> your presses that you can feel the resistance. You should NOT > >> have to 'work' to close the contacts, but they should offer > >> some resistance > >> > >> 5) Set the contact spacing such that you get a bit of both tactile > >> AND audible feedback when you're sending. The thickness of a > >> business card is a good starting point for setting beginning > >> contact spacing. > >> > >> 6) PRACTICE A LOT > >> > >> 73, > >> > >> Tom Hammond N0SS > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: [hidden email] > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Mike Geddes
My thread got hijacked! Point: Elecraft kits are really great (and
rewarding). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Geddes" <[hidden email]> To: "Elecraft" <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:48 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! KPA100 and KDSP2 kits were delivered today! I am making fine progress on my K2 build and really am enjoying the experience. Have plenty of building to keep me busy. Elecraft is a great company and this has been a great experience. Will keep you posted. 73, Mike N4JX K1/4 2319 on the air K2/100 6042 under construction! _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Dreaded "thread drift" Mike!
My apologies. When answering Brett's questions and comments about CW, I meant to change the subject! You're preaching to the choir here anyway. When you get your rig running, be sure to go post some comments on e-ham about it! In the meantime, keep the list posted on your progress and fun! Most of us get a kick out of repeating the experience vicariously, and there are always lurkers here who are wondering if they should buy Elecraft. Shoot, you might be one. I was, about 8 years ago <G>. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- My thread got hijacked! Point: Elecraft kits are really great (and rewarding). _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I created an account on E ham just so I could post about my K2!
The reviews are what pushed me over the edge into having to get one! Brett N2DTS > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Ron > D'Eau Claire > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 7:19 PM > To: 'Mike Geddes' > Cc: 'Elecraft' > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Yahoo-o-o-o-o !! > > Dreaded "thread drift" Mike! > > My apologies. When answering Brett's questions and comments > about CW, I > meant to change the subject! > > You're preaching to the choir here anyway. When you get your > rig running, be > sure to go post some comments on e-ham about it! In the > meantime, keep the > list posted on your progress and fun! Most of us get a kick > out of repeating > the experience vicariously, and there are always lurkers here who are > wondering if they should buy Elecraft. > > Shoot, you might be one. I was, about 8 years ago <G>. > > Ron AC7AC > > -----Original Message----- > > My thread got hijacked! Point: Elecraft kits are really great (and > rewarding). > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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