Your solder may be no clean
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The Kester solder Mouser part nos. are different in present Mouser catalog.
However, by inspection of the numbers which are similar I can tell you that nos. containing 6040 are 60/ 40 solder. Nos. suffixed with 88xx seem to all be "NO Clean" type, which you do NOT want to use! Most likely you have type "245" solder, No Clean, any number on container like 245? Go to an electronics or electrical wholesale distributor or order on line the correct type. One of the best solders in the world for Elecraft or any kit/ or home building is Multicore. It is a multiple core rosin type solder. The company is a division of Permatex gasket compound manufacturer now, but has been in electronics since 1960 or so. My Field Test K2 was built with Multicore solder, (formerly Ersin Multicore of England). Stuart K5KVH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Your solder may be no clean
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Stuart,
please help me get educated; why would one not want to get the "No Clean" type? It sounds as though it would not be corrosive, since you don't have to clean it... And if one wanted to go leadless these days what would be the best choice? And differences between rosin and resin core solder? After all, recalling the recent horror story on the list about corrosion, I am nervous... Thanks --Dave, W5SV Stuart Rohre wrote: >The Kester solder Mouser part nos. are different in present Mouser catalog. >However, by inspection of the numbers which are similar I can tell you that >nos. containing 6040 are 60/ 40 solder. > >Nos. suffixed with 88xx seem to all be "NO Clean" type, which you do NOT >want to use! > >Most likely you have type "245" solder, No Clean, any number on container >like 245? > >Go to an electronics or electrical wholesale distributor or order on line >the correct type. > >One of the best solders in the world for Elecraft or any kit/ or home >building is Multicore. It is a multiple core rosin type solder. The >company is a division of Permatex gasket compound manufacturer now, but has >been in electronics since 1960 or so. My Field Test K2 was built with >Multicore solder, (formerly Ersin Multicore of England). > >Stuart >K5KVH > > > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > -- David F. Reed - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: Your solder may be no clean
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Perhaps I can offer a partial answer, Dave.
The best "no clean" solder (meaning it does not need to be cleaned for a good, secure and stable joint for many, many years) is the same rosin flux solder we've used for many years. Rosin is NOT corrosive except when heated. At normal temperatures (below the melting point of solder) it is inert. That's why there is no reason at all to remove excess rosin from joints or boards. Apparently some government agencies and their contractors like to see excess rosin flux removed and train their people to do so. I'm not sure why they do that, but in the environment in which Elecraft rigs are capable of being used this is completely unnecessary. Some of the new types of solder intended for machine soldering applications have a flux that remains corrosive at room temperature. It is designed for machine-soldering in which the board is machine washed after soldering. Failure to properly wash this flux off will result in corroded boards and joints, even though they appear perfectly clean. From what I saw on the reflector, this is exactly what happened to one builder who used that solder. The corroded joints started turning up some months after the rig was built. Bottom line, follow the Elecraft recommendations that you can find in any Elecraft assembly manual: 1) Use IC-grade, small-diameter (.031") solder (Kester #44 or equivalent). 2) DO NOT use acid-core solder, water-soluble flux solder, additional flux or solvents of any kind. Use of any of these will void your warranty. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Good Morning Group,
I'm expecting my K2 Monday, and have my first question: I bought Silver-Bearing Solder at Radio Shack (.022 dia, 62/36/2, #64-013E) and now, after reading so much on what I used to think was a pretty simple subject, Rosin Core: Good, Acid Core: Bad, I wonder if what I bought is OK? TIA, 73, Tom, W3QS _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Tom, W3QS, asked:
I bought Silver-Bearing Solder at Radio Shack (.022 dia, 62/36/2, #64-013E) and now, after reading so much on what I used to think was a pretty simple subject, Rosin Core: Good, Acid Core: Bad, I wonder if what I bought is OK? --------------------------------- Some years ago Elecraft suggested silver-bearing solder as an alternative. As I understand the issue, it was dropped because of its somewhat higher melting temperature. That makes removing parts to fix building errors, etc., without damaging the boards more difficult. Since there is no other benefit for using silver solder in Elecraft rigs and conventional solder is readily available, it was decided the potential for board damage wasn't worth recommending silver-bearing solder. Some builders have the idea that silver solder is better for RF circuits. That's true in some special cases in circuits that operate at very high RF currents and temperatures. For example, some of the 900 MHz transmitters I have serviced require its use when repairing the power amplifier stages. The current lineup of Elecraft rigs don't have those conditions or needs. The flux issue isn't as simple as rosin vs acid any longer. You have rosin. That's good. That's always good in Elecraft rigs. There are now other fluxes sold for use in electronics that are not good. Some are even "water soluble", which leads some builders to think they must be less corrosive. Just the opposite is true. These fluxes, including the water soluble ones, are designed ONLY for very tightly controlled use, usually where the board is soldered and then very thoroughly cleaned by machine. These fluxes are highly corrosive and must be completely and thoroughly removed to avoid the same sort of long term destruction of the connections and the board that any acid-flux solder will cause. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by tom.w3qs
> I bought Silver-Bearing Solder at Radio Shack (.022 dia, 62/36/2, #64-013E)
> and now, after reading so much on what I used to think was a pretty simple > subject, Rosin Core: Good, Acid Core: Bad, I wonder if what I bought is OK? If the solder is has a rosin (or resin) or "no clean" core -- be it 60/40, 63/37 or 62/36/2 -- it is fine. If the solder is water-soluble, or acid core, it is bad. Very bad. YMMV, I am not responsible if your kit corrodes, etc... ;-) 73, Lyle KK7P _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Stuart Rohre
Joe,
I mis-remembered, saying "Permatex's" parent co. It is the "Loctite" parent co. that now owns Multicore Solders. Henkle. However , google on Multicore Solders brings up the distributor list from the link I will embed here. http://www.motionnet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?a=sc&no=7823 Where are you located? Among the electronic distributors carrying Multicore solders around the country (USA) are: Carlton Bates Co., Digi Key, Electrotex 800 460 1801; Industrial Electronics 800 242 7204 in WI. And in TX: North Texas Distributing Co. 800 553-6168. I think awhile back, there was a group buy on the QRP reflector of Multicore lead solder from Carlton Bates. I see on the Multicore factory page they already sell no lead solders, so you better hurry to get your traditional solder for repairs and construction before it is no longer made or allowed to be sold. The new solders are NOT compatible with the leads and tinning on some components, so should not be used in making repairs to existing equipment made with lead solders originally. Since I have found Kester Solders to not perform to my lab's exacting standards for military prototypes, I have not kept up on their part nos. I cannot advise on the one you list. Please consult the Kester web page. GL, Stuart K5KVH -- If you Google on a Brand or key word description, almost everything is on the web. (See my sidebar about web resources in parts searches in the 2005 ARRL Handbook.) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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