Hello.
Right now I am happily using a straight key with my KX1 as I can't seem to get the hang of paddles (that and the fact that pounding brass feels good ;-) Since I found a single-lever paddle that may be used as a "cootie-key" of sorts (see here: http://www.mtechnologies.com/cootie.htm), I was wondering if I could catch two birds with the proverbial one stone: -with the KX1 in straight key mode, paddle used as "cootie-key" (jumpering the two posts together) -with the KX1 in paddle mode, paddle used normally, for example to enter data in keyer memory or maybe one day for real 8-) Question is, does the KX1 internal keyer really care about the paddle being a normal dual-lever model or a single non-iambic one? (backup question: was the question above really dumb? ;-) TIA, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
The KX1 would never know that you connected a single-lever paddle vs. a
dual-lever paddle. Dual-lever paddles are not necessarily "normal". They are just more common. BTW, you suggested you were having a little trouble with iambic keying. Don't feel bad. I did a little informal survey at the last club meeting among the known cw ops there. Out of an even dozen of us, all used a dual-paddle paddle. Only two used either iambic mode. One of those using iambic was relatively new to ham radio, the other had been a cw op for 30 years. The rest of us had been cw ops for 20-48 (me) years. Frankly, iambic keying seems to take an awful lot of effort to learn just to send 4 letters with less energy. If you're having problems with it, don't worry about it. Concentrate on well-formed Morse with whatever you are comfortable with. The important thing is to get on the air and built experience. Eric KE6US -----Original Message----- From: elecraft-bounces+eric_csuf=[hidden email] [mailto:elecraft-bounces+eric_csuf=[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Andrea Borgia Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 2:00 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] kx1 and single-lever paddles? Question is, does the KX1 internal keyer really care about the paddle being a normal dual-lever model or a single non-iambic one? (backup question: was the question above really dumb? ;-) TIA, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Andrea Borgia
This is a simple conversion of the KX1 iambic paddle (KXPD1) to a single
lever paddle. i never was able to convert over to iambic keying since i learned to send CW with a regular Vibroplex bug. i have always been able to send faster and with fewer errors on a single lever paddle. When i have to use any iambic paddle i must keep my fingers spaced really far apart. The conversion uses an exoskeleton plastic case over the KXPD1 iambic levers. The exoskeleton case prevents the operation of both levers at the same time. i found an old 9 Volt NiCad battery (Eveready type CH22, really 7.2V, that has the 2 snap clips on the top), i took all the NiCad cells out and the case fits right over the iambic paddles. This case is made of a one piece plastic shell. You must remove the KXPD1 rubber boots and shorten the plastic battery case a little. Fine spacing adjustments can be made by taping thin pieces of postage stamp size cardboard (3x5 card stock) inside the plastic case. Now the last task is to hold the case in place and to get the case to pivot around the levers. i placed a long uninsulated terminal lug under the top left paddle PCB screw and formed it up to the top of the key. This made a little peg for the case to pivot on. Then i epoxied an Exacto knife to the top of the case. The hole in the Exacto blade fits over the peg. The case can now easily be attached for single lever operation or taken off for iambic operation. (You could drill and tap a small hole in the aluminum block and put in a small screw to make the pivot but it isn't as adjustable as the lug). The plastic case doesn't fall off when you are walking around Pedestrian Mobile either... i have a photo of the final paddle conversion in the W0RW photo section of HFPack2. Try this link http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/hfpack2/vwp?.dir=/W0RW+-+Paul&.dnm=KXPD1+Mod.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t The photo makes the conversion very easy to understand. Now after using it and it adds 15 wpm to my sending speed. Necessity is the Mother of Invention ! Paul [hidden email] Paul Signorelli [hidden email] P.O. Box 6069 Colorado Springs, CO 80934 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by EricJ-2
EricJ wrote:
> The KX1 would never know that you connected a single-lever paddle vs. a > dual-lever paddle. Ah, good! I was worried about the squeeze being required to form some characters. > BTW, you suggested you were having a little trouble with iambic keying. "trouble" is quite an understatement: every time I try it, I get worked up in a way I never experienced when learning code with the straight key. Oh well... > years. The rest of us had been cw ops for 20-48 (me) years. Frankly, iambic > keying seems to take an awful lot of effort to learn just to send 4 letters > with less energy. I'll try asking a similar question at the next club meeting but I suspect everybody uses iambic here, new ops included. By the way, when I met Lazlo HA3NU (a guy who sets the keyer to 60wpm and calls it "slow" ;-) at a big italian hamfest in Pordenone a few weeks ago, he said he preferred single lever paddles, especially for truly extra-high speeds. Your comments and his, taken together, have convinced me that all is well 8-) B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by W0rw
[hidden email] wrote:
> This is a simple conversion of the KX1 iambic paddle (KXPD1) to a single > lever paddle. Your suggestion is quite interesting indeed, but unfortunately I didn't buy the KXPD1 so I can't try your idea. I did test-drive one KXPD1, though, and I found it trickier to handle than any other paddle I've set my fingers on (a couple of Benchers and the whole Begali product line, IIRC). B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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