new K3 owner

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new K3 owner

Carl Yaffey
Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
[hidden email]
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: new K3 owner

Don Wilhelm-4
Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static
mat in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the
same potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that
can be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the
ground screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the
receptacle is properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive
tester that can be found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical
department.  Driving a ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in
itself be a hazard if it is not connected to the utility entrance ground
stake with a #6 or larger copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to
keep everything at the same potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped
screwheads can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell
you to use a magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at
my workbench - they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in
places where Murphy says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do
an inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask,
there will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
> Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
>

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Re: new K3 owner

Bill-3
In reply to this post by Carl Yaffey
Patience and care will reward you with the best, most versatile, most
customizable XCVR currently on the market.

Day one: I set up a folding table by the stove, sorted (using a couple
of egg cartons for small parts), and read the complete directions.

Day two: I spent about six or seven hours doing assembly. Take your time
- read the directions twice.

Day three: Completed assembly and testing - another five or six hours.

Be sure to get the Fred Cady book - it will help you understand the real
capabilities of the K3 and show you how to use them.

Since then, I have used the K3 five or six hours daily - sometimes more.
Complicated and complex? Sure is. Take the time to learn the radio. You
will be rewarded with a great experience.

Get a pitcher and some ice - you will need it for the Kool Aide. It took
me nearly a year to fully appreciate the K3 and become an official Kool
Aid drinker.

Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: new K3 owner

Edward R Cole
In reply to this post by Carl Yaffey
Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to
remove from packaging until you install them.

Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before
I go too far.

K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     [hidden email]

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Re: new K3 owner

Fred Smith-2
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8>)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
> Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
>

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Re: new K3 owner

Cookie
In reply to this post by Carl Yaffey
Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


________________________________
 From: Carl Yaffey <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 

Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
[hidden email]
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: new K3 owner

Matt Zilmer-2
More advice:

Be sure you're using the correct hardware (especially screws) by
measuring them as suggested in the assembly manual.  We get a
significant number of kits returned with chassis or other short
circuits due to long & wrong screws being used.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 08:06:23 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a little then be sure to
> tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is important and must be done correctly.

>Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
>K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129
Skype: matt.zilmer

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Re: new K3 owner

Tighe Kuykendall
Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've
found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside
from good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm
looking and makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without
having to move, rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.

73, Tighe


--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: new K3 owner

Phil Hystad-3
In reply to this post by Cookie
ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges -- any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will result in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and clean up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a little then be sure to
> tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is important and must be done correctly.
>  
> Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
> K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Carl Yaffey <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
>
>
> Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
> 73,
> Carl Yaffey  K8NU
> Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
> recording studio.
> [hidden email]
> 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
> http://www.carl-yaffey.com
> http://www.grassahol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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Re: new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

Phil Hystad-3
In reply to this post by Tighe Kuykendall
Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.

If anyone has a better solution to this problem -- let me know.  Eye sight only gets worse, it rarely gets better.  Electronic parts only get smaller, they rarely get larger.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Tighe Kuykendall <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside from good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm looking and makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without having to move, rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.
>
> 73, Tighe
>
>
> --
> Tighe Kuykendall
> NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
> ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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Re: new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

Don Wilhelm-4
Phil,

Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My
solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed
for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at
Walmart.

Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.
>

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Re: new K3 owner

Charlie T, K3ICH
In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any service
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS (Japanese
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different from the
Phillips or Frearson (Reed & Prince).  Compatible screw heads are usually
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an "X" to one side of the cross
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and Japanese
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.

73, Charlie k3ICH



----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Hystad" <[hidden email]>
To: "WILLIS COOKE" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges --  
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will
result in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and
clean up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw
> Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers
> that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if
> not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a
> static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction
> manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again
> and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help
> until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so
> you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the
> manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to
> plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use
> as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
> something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a
> little then be sure to
> tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful
> and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every
> step is important and must be done correctly.
>
> Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
> K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Carl Yaffey <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
>
>
> Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
> properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
> 73,
> Carl Yaffey  K8NU
> Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
> recording studio.
> [hidden email]
> 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
> http://www.carl-yaffey.com
> http://www.grassahol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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Re: new K3 owner

PA2V
In reply to this post by Carl Yaffey
Hi Carl.
I am a new K3 owner too.
Finished my K3 a month ago (SN7819).
Assembling the kit is fun. As stated before: Take your time.
I used all anti-static and good tools.  Used a wrist strap and anti-static
mat.
The mat and my wrist strap were grounded to the house safety earth.
All boards and components are very well indicated and the manuals are clear.
Except the Operating manual. This feels a bit minimal.
But don't worry. The support from Elecraft is quite okay.
QRP-project in Germany, Elecraft's representative in Europe did very well.
I also experienced fast response from Elecraft USA too.
No problem to make it a proper job. Read, read and re-read the manuals.
And when you finally can run the rig, be prepared to have a long and
pleasant learning curve.
73, Peter PA2V



Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 01:07:58 -0900
From: Edward R Cole <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to
remove from packaging until you install them.

Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before
I go too far.

K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     [hidden email]



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 04:43:18 -0600
From: "Fred Smith" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>, <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: <001701cf143a$19e9dfd0$4dbd9f70$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8>)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
> Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
>


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Re: new K3 owner

Gary Smith-2
In reply to this post by Edward R Cole
Everything Ed said; Check.

I used 18 egg, egg cartons to hold parts and cut card stock in
strips, labelled them according to small part & then taped them in
the individual egg holders with those parts in the egg "socket".
Didn't knock over like cups would have and kept everything separate
till the end. No spare parts when I was done.

Gary
KA1J

& P.S.; Good choice, the K3!


> Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts
> list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar
> looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large
> Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many
> dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to
> remove from packaging until you install them.
>
> Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing
> usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the
> instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use
> pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in
> diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before
> I go too far.
>
> K3/10 sn 4340
> KX3 sn 475
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
> http://www.kl7uw.com
>      "Kits made by KL7UW"
> Dubus Mag business:
>      [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list:
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>




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Re: new K3 owner

Gary Smith-2
In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH
Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
the only screwdriver to use on those screws. & As Charlie said, they
are ID'd by the dot on the head.

Gary
KA1J

> If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
> service
> work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
> (Japanese
> Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
> from the
> Phillips or Frearson (Reed & Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
> usually
> identifiable by a single depressed dot or an "X" to one side of the
> cross
> slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
> Japanese
> imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Hystad" <[hidden email]>
> To: "WILLIS COOKE" <[hidden email]>
> Cc: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
>
>
> ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...
>
> And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
> become
> worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
> edges --  
> any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
> screwdrivers) will
> result in stripped screw heads more often.
>
> Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
> and
> clean up those old screwdrivers.
>
> 73 phil K7PEH
>
>
> On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
>
> > Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips
> Screw
> > Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap
> screwdrivers
> > that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them
> away, if
> > not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.
> Buy a
> > static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the
> construction
> > manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read
> them again
> > and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get
> help
> > until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part
> again so
> > you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order
> the
> > manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you
> need to
> > plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket
> then use
> > as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
> > something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move
> it a
> > little then be sure to
> > tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be
> careful
> > and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but
> every
> > step is important and must be done correctly.
> >
> > Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
> > K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Carl Yaffey <[hidden email]>
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
> > Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
> >
> >
> > Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it
> together
> > properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
> > 73,
> > Carl Yaffey  K8NU
> > Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
> > recording studio.
> > [hidden email]
> > 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
> > http://www.carl-yaffey.com
> > http://www.grassahol.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list:
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list:
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
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Re: new K3 owner

Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
My perception is that the JIS drivers are the best fit for Elecraft
screws. I've never gotten a response from Elecraft about their choice of
drivers.
73, doug

On 18-Jan-14 16:03, Gary Smith wrote:

> Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
> the only screwdriver to use on those screws. & As Charlie said, they
> are ID'd by the dot on the head.
>
> Gary
> KA1J
>
>> If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
>> service
>> work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
>> (Japanese
>> Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
>> from the
>> Phillips or Frearson (Reed & Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
>> usually
>> identifiable by a single depressed dot or an "X" to one side of the
>> cross
>> slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
>> Japanese
>> imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.
>>
>> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil Hystad" <[hidden email]>
>> To: "WILLIS COOKE" <[hidden email]>
>> Cc: <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
>>
>>
>> ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...
>>
>> And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
>> become
>> worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
>> edges --
>> any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
>> screwdrivers) will
>> result in stripped screw heads more often.
>>
>> Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
>> and
>> clean up those old screwdrivers.
>>
>> 73 phil K7PEH
>>
>>
>> On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE <[hidden email]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips
>> Screw
>>> Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap
>> screwdrivers
>>> that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them
>> away, if
>>> not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.
>> Buy a
>>> static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the
>> construction
>>> manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read
>> them again
>>> and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get
>> help
>>> until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part
>> again so
>>> you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order
>> the
>>> manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you
>> need to
>>> plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket
>> then use
>>> as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
>>> something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move
>> it a
>>> little then be sure to
>>> tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be
>> careful
>>> and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but
>> every
>>> step is important and must be done correctly.
>>>
>>> Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
>>> K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Carl Yaffey <[hidden email]>
>>> To: [hidden email]
>>> Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it
>> together
>>> properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
>>> 73,
>>> Carl Yaffey  K8NU
>>> Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
>>> recording studio.
>>> [hidden email]
>>> 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
>>> http://www.carl-yaffey.com
>>> http://www.grassahol.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list:
>> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list:
>> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>
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>>
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>>
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>>
>
>
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Re: new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

Phil Hystad-3
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Thanks Don -- I will go searching for one of those tomorrow.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Phil,
>
> Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at Walmart.
>
> Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
>> Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

Edward R Cole
In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

Phil and Don,

Lighting is key to seeing detail, small objects.  In high light the
pupil constricts and depth of vision improves.  These concepts well
known to camera buffs.  Want sharp image get higher light levels,
better f-stops, shorter exposure time.  I used to have a macro-lens
for a 35mm film camera (both sold long ago in favor of digital camera).

I have both a fluorescent fixture over my work surface and an
illuminated round magnifier lamp.  Some day I will get one the
jeweler's head magnifier's.  I have noticed my normal short-sighted
ness going longer of late.  But so far do not wear glasses for the
near work.  I do wear glasses for driving.

Somewhere I acquired a small round magnifier lens which I can also
use.  But good light is necessary for doing surface mount assembly.

Ed - KL7UW
-------------------
On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
 > Phil,
 >
 > Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read.
My solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was
designed for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I
found it at Walmart.
 >
 > Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely
 >
 > 73,
 > Don W3FPR


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     [hidden email]

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