I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ??
If I have to use coax is there a "trick" to unraveling the braid ?? I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. 73 de Jesse w6jmm _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
On 6/16/06, Jesse & Nicky <[hidden email]> wrote:
> I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ?? The use of coax is AFAIK* to prevent the probe from picking up stray RF energy from the powered up radio under test. The banana plugs are used as the standard connectors to a DMM. > If I have to use coax is there a "trick" to unraveling the braid ?? > I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. I used my wire cutter to make a parallel cut to the braid (parallel to the length of the cable) to allow the braid to pulled to one side of the insulation and then twist the braid into a "wire." This might not be the best solution, but I filled the small hole in the banana plug with solder, heated the solder, and let the braid (and repeat for the wire inside the coax insulation) rest in the pool of solder until it cools enough to hold it in place. Remember to put the plastic covers inline before soldering. > As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I hope that make sense, and is useful to you. *) AFAIK = As Far As I Know -Michael Taylor, VE3TIX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Jesse & Nicky
Hi Jesse,
just read your post re the RF probe. Your questions concerning the use of banana plugs are already answered so I'll have a go at the braid unraveling question. I'm using a very small copper brush. It looks like a toothbrush but the brushes are made of copper wire. After having cut away the outer sheath, I use the brush to "comb" the braid along the axis of the coax, combing from the sheath towards the end of the cable. It may take a few minutes of "combing" but this results in a set of perfectly aligned copper wires, no sign of interleaving or braid. Then it's really a piece of cake to separate them from the cable. Hope this helps. 73 es gud DX Glenn ON4WIX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
With smaller cables like RG174 (or even RG58) I sometimes do what Glenn,
ON4WIX does, using a brush or fine pointed tool to "unweave" the braid. Most often I use another technique that does *not* require un-weaving the braid. I cut the jacket back and then use a fine pointed tool to push the strands of the braid apart to open a space where I want the center conductor and braid to separate. This can be done without breaking any braid strands, especially if you push the braid back from the cut end a bit to make it expand slightly around the center conductor where you want to make the opening, then push the strands aside with the pointed tool. Then, by bending the braid and center conductor together, I make a loop in the center conductor that I can tease out through the opening in the braid so I can get my pointed tool through the loop and pull all of the center conductor from that point to the cut end through the hole. Pulling the braid tight again, I now have the braid and center conductors neatly separated. Finally I strip off some insulation from the center conductor to expose enough to solder. Ron _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Jesse & Nicky
I find that the shield is not particularly flexible and soon breaks
and unravels. With RG-174, just cut the shield back, leaving approx. 1/16" exposed beyond the outer wrapper. Wrap a flexible piece of stranded hookup wire around the exposed shield and solder it to the shield. Cover the exposed shield/solder joint with some shrink tubing and solder the other end of the hookup wire to wherever its going. Hookup wire survives flexing much better than the cable shield. On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:43:09 -0700, "Jesse & Nicky" <[hidden email]> wrote: >I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ?? > >If I have to use coax is there a "trick" to unraveling the braid ?? >I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. > >As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by michael taylor-3
Another classic way of using coax braid, is to push the braid back up the
central conductor, after removing the outer vinyl jacket. Once you "bunch" the braid, it spreads out and you can use a sharp pointed tool to make a hole by spreading the crossed strands. Using the pointed tool or a hook tool, pull the insulated center conductor back thru this hole by folding a "U" shape, and hooking the U to pull it thru the braid hole. Now you have the flat braid as one conductor lead, and it will not unravel past the point it is penetrated by the central insulated wire. Proceed to tin and then solder the braid in into the cup of the banana plug; and tin, then solder, the center wire into the other banana plug cup. Stuart K5KVH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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