Hello,
after removing the cable of an external key the tip of the stereo 3.5 mm plug remains in the KX2 key jack. Any idea how to remove the tip without destroying or replacing the key jack? Any help is appreciated. 73 de Eugen DL4SAS ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
On 2021-01-15 18:25:+0100, Eugen Bauknecht via Elecraft wrote:
>Hello, >after removing the cable of an external key the tip of the stereo 3.5 mm plug remains in the KX2 key jack. >Any idea how to remove the tip without destroying or replacing the key jack? >Any help is appreciated. >73 de Eugen DL4SAS I had this happen with one of my "quality" adapters that I used in my Kenwood TS-830S. I think the reason in my case was 1) the quality adapter (Sony) was designed for newer jacks, and 2) the older Kenwood jack is very "strong". That is, the spring tension of the clips that hold the 1/4" plug exert a lot of pressure. I assume that is because in days of old (I picked this up decades ago, and still have an original headset from those days) the plug was also pretty sturdy. Think old style switchboards, and cycles. I ended up using a variety of tools, and going in from the rear. The broken tip was rotated, so it would not simply pop out. I needed to use a fine round steel pick to line it up correctly, then use another fine tool to press the tip out from the rear. I went to all this trouble because to get at the jack on the 830 means dismantling much of the radio. I originally thought, that's too much work, I should be able to do this easily. Not so. Much patience, finding the right tools, dexterity. Not familiar with the KX2, but assume that it would be easier because the KX2 is much newer tech. Heck, might not even be worth the effort, if the jack is reasonably accessible...just replace it? Or is it board-mounted? Even so, prob easier to get at than my 830. OTOH, the 830 jack is "open", so I could get at the internals. Some newer jacks are encased. In that case (sic), I think that a replacement is in order. ~R~ 72/73 de Rich NE1EE The Dusty Key On the banks of the Piscataqua ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I had this happen with a neighbors daughters laptop. I was able to get a small diameter drill bit like is used for drilling pcb holes and using a pin vise put a few twists of the bit into the broken part of the connector. Then I gently pulled it out.
Chris KD4PBJ > On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:54 AM, Rich NE1EE <[hidden email]> wrote: > > On 2021-01-15 18:25:+0100, Eugen Bauknecht via Elecraft wrote: >> Hello, >> after removing the cable of an external key the tip of the stereo 3.5 mm plug remains in the KX2 key jack. >> Any idea how to remove the tip without destroying or replacing the key jack? >> Any help is appreciated. >> 73 de Eugen DL4SAS > > I had this happen with one of my "quality" adapters that I used in my Kenwood TS-830S. I think the reason in my case was 1) the quality adapter (Sony) was designed for newer jacks, and 2) the older Kenwood jack is very "strong". That is, the spring tension of the clips that hold the 1/4" plug exert a lot of pressure. I assume that is because in days of old (I picked this up decades ago, and still have an original headset from those days) the plug was also pretty sturdy. Think old style switchboards, and cycles. > > I ended up using a variety of tools, and going in from the rear. The broken tip was rotated, so it would not simply pop out. I needed to use a fine round steel pick to line it up correctly, then use another fine tool to press the tip out from the rear. I went to all this trouble because to get at the jack on the 830 means dismantling much of the radio. I originally thought, that's too much work, I should be able to do this easily. Not so. Much patience, finding the right tools, dexterity. Not familiar with the KX2, but assume that it would be easier because the KX2 is much newer tech. Heck, might not even be worth the effort, if the jack is reasonably accessible...just replace it? Or is it board-mounted? Even so, prob easier to get at than my 830. OTOH, the 830 jack is "open", so I could get at the internals. Some newer jacks are encased. In that case (sic), I think that a replacement is in order. > > ~R~ > 72/73 de Rich NE1EE > The Dusty Key > On the banks of the Piscataqua > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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On 1/15/2021 9:25 AM, Eugen Bauknecht via Elecraft wrote:
> Any idea how to remove the tip without destroying or replacing the key jack? I don't mean to belittle the problem, but it's the same as when the flexible part of my hearing aid (earbud) broke off in my ear canal - use the proper tools and work *very* gently. If the diameter was larger I would recommend a tool set used for screw extraction but I don't think that you could find one for that size that outside of a dental office. The suggestion of using a small drill bit and pin vise sounds like a reasonable thing to try. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Chris Waldrup-2
I had to do this, too, on my KX3. I had to open it up and use a lockpick to
push the broken tip out from the back of the jack. I'm just glad it wasn't the type with a plastic box around the action, or it would have been a lot harder. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 73, Gwen, NG3P On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 1:15 PM Chris Waldrup <[hidden email]> wrote: > I had this happen with a neighbors daughters laptop. I was able to get a > small diameter drill bit like is used for drilling pcb holes and using a > pin vise put a few twists of the bit into the broken part of the connector. > Then I gently pulled it out. > > Chris > KD4PBJ > > > On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:54 AM, Rich NE1EE <[hidden email]> > wrote: > > > > On 2021-01-15 18:25:+0100, Eugen Bauknecht via Elecraft wrote: > >> Hello, > >> after removing the cable of an external key the tip of the stereo 3.5 > mm plug remains in the KX2 key jack. > >> Any idea how to remove the tip without destroying or replacing the key > jack? > >> Any help is appreciated. > >> 73 de Eugen DL4SAS > > > > I had this happen with one of my "quality" adapters that I used in my > Kenwood TS-830S. I think the reason in my case was 1) the quality adapter > (Sony) was designed for newer jacks, and 2) the older Kenwood jack is very > "strong". That is, the spring tension of the clips that hold the 1/4" plug > exert a lot of pressure. I assume that is because in days of old (I picked > this up decades ago, and still have an original headset from those days) > the plug was also pretty sturdy. Think old style switchboards, and cycles. > > > > I ended up using a variety of tools, and going in from the rear. The > broken tip was rotated, so it would not simply pop out. I needed to use a > fine round steel pick to line it up correctly, then use another fine tool > to press the tip out from the rear. I went to all this trouble because to > get at the jack on the 830 means dismantling much of the radio. I > originally thought, that's too much work, I should be able to do this > easily. Not so. Much patience, finding the right tools, dexterity. Not > familiar with the KX2, but assume that it would be easier because the KX2 > is much newer tech. Heck, might not even be worth the effort, if the jack > is reasonably accessible...just replace it? Or is it board-mounted? Even > so, prob easier to get at than my 830. OTOH, the 830 jack is "open", so I > could get at the internals. Some newer jacks are encased. In that case > (sic), I think that a replacement is in order. > > > > ~R~ > > 72/73 de Rich NE1EE > > The Dusty Key > > On the banks of the Piscataqua > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to [hidden email] > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Hello,
thank you very much for your advises and responses. They are really helpful. Here is what I have learned. Several options how to remove the tip of the plug from the jack: A. use a ball pen refill with a proper inner diameter, i.e from a BIC pen, which pulls over the tip firmly and then out the tip B. put a small piece of super glue on the tip of a straightened paper clip, insert it, wait sufficient time for perfect binding, then pull out the tip. Glue gel should work better than glue fluid. Avoid putting the glue at the inside of the jack. You may use a straw around the clip for shielding. C. use a drill with appr. 1mm or 0.04 inch diameter, drill by hand into the tip and pull it out. D. use a screw with a small diameter und carefully screw it in the tip and pull it out. E. open the rig and use a lock pick or similar tool to push the broken tip out from the back of the jack. It only works if the jack is open from the behind. F. bring the rig to an Elecraft authorized repair service/repair center ..tbc Finally, option C worked for me. Enjoy the weekend. 73, Eugen, DL4SAS ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
On 2021-01-16 18:04:+0100, Eugen DL4SAS via Elecraft wrote:
>Hello, >Here is what I have learned. > >Finally, option C worked for me. Thanks for reposting all the ideas in one place. Much easier to find in the future, and easier to keep mental track of. ~R~ 72/73 de Rich NE1EE The Dusty Key On the banks of the Piscataqua ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Gwen Patton
On 1/15/2021 4:09 PM, Gwen Patton wrote:
> I had to do this, too, on my KX3. I had to open it up and use a lockpick to > push the broken tip out from the back of the jack. For almost 30 years, I've served on international Standards Working Groups (of the Audio Engineering Society Standards Committee) with representatives of the world's two manufacturers of quality audio connectors, Switchcraft (US) and Neutrik (EU). In our meetings, both have recounted problems they have with counterfeit versions of connectors produced in China. I'm also a member of the Working Group on Microphones, and major mic manufacturers have long had the same problem with their products. Among the defects of the counterfeit connectors are 1) lousy construction, so that they fall apart and 2) they don't conform to the physical size definitions of the Standard for the part they claim to be. As long as 20 years ago, I was reading about counterfeit fasteners causing problems for aircraft manufacturers. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I once used super glue to try to get the end of a broken off ignition key out. Ha ha, that lock was never the same!
Eugen, I'm glad you were able to get the broken piece out of the jack. Ham ingenuity! 73 Jay K3BH On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, at 12:04, Eugen DL4SAS via Elecraft wrote: > Hello, > > thank you very much for your advises and responses. > They are really helpful. > Here is what I have learned. > > Several options how to remove the tip of the plug from the jack: <snip> > > B. put a small piece of super glue on the tip of a straightened paper > clip, insert it, wait sufficient time for perfect binding, then pull > out the tip. Glue gel should work better than glue fluid. Avoid putting > the glue at the inside of the jack. You may use a straw around the clip > for shielding. <snip> ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
I did try a broken key extractor to get the tip of the plug out of the
jack, but I couldn't get it to grab. But getting a broken key out of a lock is what it's designed for, so it might have worked reasonably well to get that key out of your ignition. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 73, Gwen, NG3P On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 5:27 PM Jay Rutherford <[hidden email]> wrote: > I once used super glue to try to get the end of a broken off ignition key > out. Ha ha, that lock was never the same! > > Eugen, I'm glad you were able to get the broken piece out of the jack. Ham > ingenuity! > > 73 > Jay K3BH > > On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, at 12:04, Eugen DL4SAS via Elecraft wrote: > > Hello, > > > > thank you very much for your advises and responses. > > They are really helpful. > > Here is what I have learned. > > > > Several options how to remove the tip of the plug from the jack: > <snip> > > > > B. put a small piece of super glue on the tip of a straightened paper > > clip, insert it, wait sufficient time for perfect binding, then pull > > out the tip. Glue gel should work better than glue fluid. Avoid putting > > the glue at the inside of the jack. You may use a straw around the clip > > for shielding. > <snip> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10
Well, when you send your intellectual property and designs to China to get your
stuff build cheap you should expect that they will steal it and undercut you. False economy. Wes N7WS On 1/16/2021 1:48 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > On 1/15/2021 4:09 PM, Gwen Patton wrote: >> I had to do this, too, on my KX3. I had to open it up and use a lockpick to >> push the broken tip out from the back of the jack. > > For almost 30 years, I've served on international Standards Working Groups (of > the Audio Engineering Society Standards Committee) with representatives of the > world's two manufacturers of quality audio connectors, Switchcraft (US) and > Neutrik (EU). In our meetings, both have recounted problems they have with > counterfeit versions of connectors produced in China. I'm also a member of the > Working Group on Microphones, and major mic manufacturers have long had the > same problem with their products. > > Among the defects of the counterfeit connectors are 1) lousy construction, so > that they fall apart and 2) they don't conform to the physical size > definitions of the Standard for the part they claim to be. > > As long as 20 years ago, I was reading about counterfeit fasteners causing > problems for aircraft manufacturers. > > 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Hi Jim
I worked as a Components Engineer at a Number of large Computer company’s, And was fortunate Not to have run into any Fake’s, But I did see on a number of Occasions where Firms would go out looking for Cheaper PC Boards or Fast turn around Fabs and Go Off Shore! They Just handed there ”intellectual property” to the World ! ……….. just my 2 cents worth…….. Ray WA6VAB K3 From: Wes Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2021 7:32 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] tip of 3.5 mm plug remains in key jack Well, when you send your intellectual property and designs to China to get your stuff build cheap you should expect that they will steal it and undercut you. False economy. Wes N7WS On 1/16/2021 1:48 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > On 1/15/2021 4:09 PM, Gwen Patton wrote: >> I had to do this, too, on my KX3. I had to open it up and use a lockpick to >> push the broken tip out from the back of the jack. > > For almost 30 years, I've served on international Standards Working Groups (of > the Audio Engineering Society Standards Committee) with representatives of the > world's two manufacturers of quality audio connectors, Switchcraft (US) and > Neutrik (EU). In our meetings, both have recounted problems they have with > counterfeit versions of connectors produced in China. I'm also a member of the > Working Group on Microphones, and major mic manufacturers have long had the > same problem with their products. > > Among the defects of the counterfeit connectors are 1) lousy construction, so > that they fall apart and 2) they don't conform to the physical size > definitions of the Standard for the part they claim to be. > > As long as 20 years ago, I was reading about counterfeit fasteners causing > problems for aircraft manufacturers. > > 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Wes Stewart-2
On 1/16/2021 7:31 PM, Wes wrote:
> Well, when you send your intellectual property and designs to China to > get your stuff build cheap you should expect that they will steal it and > undercut you. False economy. Yes. I own a spectrum analyzer and scope from a company that I'm told ripped off designs from a major US mfr outsourcing to China, and costing me 20-25% of what I would have paid for the US mfr's product. But I don't believe the companies I cited were doing that, at least not in that time frame. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Gwen Patton
No one seams to have mentioned that there is a small difference in diameter between a 3.5mm plug and a 1/8” plug (which is 3.175mm).
However, I believe the socket on the K3 is a 3.5mm one, so that should not have caused this. I’m sure someone like Don can confirm this. 73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108) ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
1/8” doesn’t exist. They’re all 3.5mm.
Biggest problem I’ve seen in cheap import connectors is poor quality plating. Both material & surface finish. 73 Josh W6XU Sent from my iPad > On Jan 17, 2021, at 6:29 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF <[hidden email]> wrote: > > No one seams to have mentioned that there is a small difference in diameter between a 3.5mm plug and a 1/8” plug (which is 3.175mm). > However, I believe the socket on the K3 is a 3.5mm one, so that should not have caused this. > I’m sure someone like Don can confirm this. > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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If you break a plug tip off inside a connector on one of our radios, and can't get it out, send it in and we'll replace the connector. No charge for anything but shipping.
73, Wayne N6KR > On Jan 17, 2021, at 11:51 AM, Josh Fiden <[hidden email]> wrote: > > 1/8” doesn’t exist. They’re all 3.5mm. > > Biggest problem I’ve seen in cheap import connectors is poor quality plating. Both material & surface finish. > > 73 > Josh W6XU > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 17, 2021, at 6:29 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> No one seams to have mentioned that there is a small difference in diameter between a 3.5mm plug and a 1/8” plug (which is 3.175mm). >> However, I believe the socket on the K3 is a 3.5mm one, so that should not have caused this. >> I’m sure someone like Don can confirm this. >> >> ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Josh Fiden
Well, I’ve still got some, go back quite a few years, but they are in my junk box!
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108) -- Now, here, you see, it takes all the running you can do, to keep in the same place. If you want to get somewhere else, you must run at least twice as fast as that! -Lewis Carroll, mathematician and writer (1832-1898) > On 17 Jan 2021, at 19:51, Josh Fiden <[hidden email]> wrote: > > 1/8” doesn’t exist. They’re all 3.5mm. > > Biggest problem I’ve seen in cheap import connectors is poor quality plating. Both material & surface finish. > > 73 > Josh W6XU > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 17, 2021, at 6:29 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> No one seams to have mentioned that there is a small difference in diameter between a 3.5mm plug and a 1/8” plug (which is 3.175mm). >> However, I believe the socket on the K3 is a 3.5mm one, so that should not have caused this. >> I’m sure someone like Don can confirm this. >> >> > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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