K3 just goes off

This has not happened to me before....

Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room  

PA 35C FP 31C

The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
button....comes back on.

Anyone see this before....I have not.

Lee


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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[John_N1JM]

Is the power supply voltage dropping too low(below the threshold)?

John N1JM

Any chance that the adjustable current limit (if you have that) on your
power supply is set a bit too low?

73, Dale WA8SRA

On 6/23/2012 10:16 PM, Lee Buller wrote:

> This has not happened to me before....
>
> Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room
>
> PA 35C FP 31C
>
> The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
> button....comes back on.
>
> Anyone see this before....I have not.
>
> Lee
>
>
>   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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Well, the PS is a switcher...Astron ss-30.

The voltage on the rig shows about 12.8 on Xmit with about 18.75 amps  Nothing
is hot.  Wires.  Connectors.  Rig.  PS.  I am a little perturbed at the voltage
drop on the ps.  I would thing it would not drop that far, but I am not sure how
accurate the meter in the K3 really is.

Has not done it again.  Never has it done it before either.

Lee




________________________________
From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off


This has not happened to me before....

Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room  

PA 35C FP 31C

The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
button....comes back on.

Anyone see this before....I have not.

Lee


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any

Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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[Kevin Stover]

Hook a DMM up to the power pole connectors on the rig and do the
load/no-load test to double chack the K3 numbers. Check the load/no-
load voltage at the power supply as well.


On 6/24/2012 12:06 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

> Well, the PS is a switcher...Astron ss-30.
>
> The voltage on the rig shows about 12.8 on Xmit with about 18.75 amps  Nothing
> is hot.  Wires.  Connectors.  Rig.  PS.  I am a little perturbed at the voltage
> drop on the ps.  I would thing it would not drop that far, but I am not sure how
> accurate the meter in the K3 really is.
>
> Has not done it again.  Never has it done it before either.
>
> Lee
>

--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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[WM3M]

I have had similar problems which ended up being poor connections from the
power supply, where crimped connections, like on the power poles are not
making good contact.  Now I solder all DC connections from power supply, if
possible.  Also, these poor connections lower the power/amps making it to
the rig, causing strange problems.  Good luck 73
Emory  WM3M

-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Buller
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 10:16 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off


This has not happened to me before....

Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room

PA 35C FP 31C

The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
button....comes back on.

Anyone see this before....I have not.

Lee


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you
don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find
any
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is
Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my
mind.
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
fuses.  The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective.  Would not seat the
fuse properly.  Thus, the connection malfunctioned.  I will be replacing those
soon.

Lee - K0WA





________________________________
From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off


This has not happened to me before....

Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room  

PA 35C FP 31C

The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
button....comes back on.

Anyone see this before....I have not.

Lee


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any

Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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[w0mu]

Glad you found it Lee!

Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
Anderson connectors.  I would encourage everyone to get the more
expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
connectors used.

Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com
Http://www.w0mu.com

On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

> Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
> fuses.  The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective.  Would not seat the
> fuse properly.  Thus, the connection malfunctioned.  I will be replacing those
> soon.
>
> Lee - K0WA
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off
>
>
> This has not happened to me before....
>
> Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room
>
> PA 35C FP 31C
>
> The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
> button....comes back on.
>
> Anyone see this before....I have not.
>
> Lee
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any
>
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Tim Herrick]

I do agree with Mike but to be safe I always solder. Murphy lives in my shack!

73,
Tim Herrick, KQ8M
Charter Member North Coast Contesters
[hidden email]

K3 Serial #5934

AR-Cluster V6 kq8m.no-ip.org
User Ports: 23, 7373  with local skimmer, 7374 without local skimmer
Server Ports: V6 3607, V4 Active 3605, V4 Passive 3606

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike Fatchett
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:35 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED

Glad you found it Lee!

Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
Anderson connectors.  I would encourage everyone to get the more
expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
connectors used.

Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com
Http://www.w0mu.com

On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote:

> Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
> fuses.  The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective.  Would not seat the
> fuse properly.  Thus, the connection malfunctioned.  I will be replacing those
> soon.
>
> Lee - K0WA
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off
>
>
> This has not happened to me before....
>
> Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room
>
> PA 35C FP 31C
>
> The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
> button....comes back on.
>
> Anyone see this before....I have not.
>
> Lee
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any
>
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Rick WA6NHC]

I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to
other ham gear.  I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they
are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an
external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors).

 

For high current items (greater than a few amps), I crimp with the proper
tool AND solder (pre-tinning the wire).  One is a mechanical connection, the
other is electrical; either should work; together is insurance.

 

No I don't wear a belt and suspenders (are they still available?); but try
to beat Murphy at his own game every chance I get.  If I EVER get my hands
on him...  :o)

 

73,

Rick wa6nhc

 

-----Original Message-----
From: W0MU Mike Fatchett



Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the

Anderson connectors.  I would encourage everyone to get the more

expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage

connectors used.

 

Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly.

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[ke9uw]

Absolutely. I bought a power cable from West Mountain and one of the leads (the red one) just fell out of the crimp connector. So much for trusting the "professional".
I do all of my crimps now and do not solder any. I use the best crimp tool.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2012, at 11:34 AM, "W0MU Mike Fatchett" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Glad you found it Lee!
>
> Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
> Anderson connectors.  I would encourage everyone to get the more
> expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
> connectors used.
>
> Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly.
>
> Mike W0MU
>
> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com
> Http://www.w0mu.com
>
> On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
>> Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
>> fuses.  The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective.  Would not seat the
>> fuse properly.  Thus, the connection malfunctioned.  I will be replacing those
>> soon.
>>
>> Lee - K0WA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Lee Buller <[hidden email]>
>> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off
>>
>>
>> This has not happened to me before....
>>
>> Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room
>>
>> PA 35C FP 31C
>>
>> The rig just went off.  Dead.  Power supply is ON.  Pressed the power
>> button....comes back on.
>>
>> Anyone see this before....I have not.
>>
>> Lee
>>
>>
>> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't
>> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any
>>
>> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
>> Sense divine?
>>
>> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
>> -  John W. (Kansas)
>>
>> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[ke9uw]

A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the wire to the terminal.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2012, at 1:13 PM, "Rick Bates" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to
> other ham gear.  I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they
> are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an
> external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors).
>
>
>
> For high current items (greater than a few amps), I crimp with the proper
> tool AND solder (pre-tinning the wire).  One is a mechanical connection, the
> other is electrical; either should work; together is insurance.
>
>
>
> No I don't wear a belt and suspenders (are they still available?); but try
> to beat Murphy at his own game every chance I get.  If I EVER get my hands
> on him...  :o)
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: W0MU Mike Fatchett
>
>
>
> Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
>
> Anderson connectors.  I would encourage everyone to get the more
>
> expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
>
> connectors used.
>
>
>
> Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly.
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
vibration. I could be making it all up.

I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for
the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps,
but I've had crimps fail too.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2012, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly*
> better than the other?
>
> Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a
> fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the
> cable and connector through which the current flows.
>
> IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because
> crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy
> to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing,
> solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld
> joining the wire to the terminal.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [hidden email]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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[ke9uw]

You've hit on why the auto industry uses crimp also (probably because of cost as much as anything too). When a wire is soldered, a bit of the solder tins up the wire strands and vibration or flexing can quickly cause the wire to break and negate the reason we use stranded wire in the first place.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2012, at 6:55 PM, "Hisashi T Fujinaka" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
> me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
> that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
> vibration. I could be making it all up.
>
> I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for
> the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps,
> but I've had crimps fail too.
>
> On Sun, 24 Jun 2012, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly*
>> better than the other?
>>
>> Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a
>> fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the
>> cable and connector through which the current flows.
>>
>> IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because
>> crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy
>> to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing,
>> solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld
>> joining the wire to the terminal.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
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>
> --
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - [hidden email]
> BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals
and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is
no "one size fits all" crimping tool, and I believe there lies the
problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper
crimping tool for each and every crimp terminal would be prohibitively
expensive.

Yes, there are consumer grade "universal"crimping tools and terminals,
but they grip the wire over only a short distance - professional crimps
will make solid contact with the wire over a larger area, and will be a
gas-tight connection where corrosion cannot get in.

I believe soldering is a better alternative for amateur work. Soldering
does have one disadvantage and that is solder will be wicked up the
stranded wire for a small distance, AND if the wire is subject to
vibration at that point, the wire will eventually break right where the
wicked solder ends (under the insulation where that break cannot be
immediately noticed).  So in high vibration environments such as
avionics, soldering is a definite "no-no", but at the home station
installation where the wires are seldom moved, soldering should be just
as good or better than properly crimped terminals.  In your mobile
installations, you might want to consider either crimping or supporting
the wire for about 3 inches away from the soldered terminal.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2012 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

> What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
> me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
> that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
> vibration. I could be making it all up.
>
> I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for
> the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps,
> but I've had crimps fail too.
>
>

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[Ronald Nutter]

Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
interim.

I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
currently am.

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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[ke9uw]

I agree about the inexpensive crimping tools...possibly not about prohibitively expensive. A small array of adequate crimping tools can cost several hundred dollars which I don't think is too much when you consider the money spent on just one high end transceiver. I think those flat plate crimpers you see in the automotive department at the hardware store ought to be outlawed from the hamshack.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2012, at 7:19 PM, "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals
> and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is
> no "one size fits all" crimping tool, and I believe there lies the
> problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper
> crimping tool for each and every crimp terminal would be prohibitively
> expensive.
>
> Yes, there are consumer grade "universal"crimping tools and terminals,
> but they grip the wire over only a short distance - professional crimps
> will make solid contact with the wire over a larger area, and will be a
> gas-tight connection where corrosion cannot get in.
>
> I believe soldering is a better alternative for amateur work. Soldering
> does have one disadvantage and that is solder will be wicked up the
> stranded wire for a small distance, AND if the wire is subject to
> vibration at that point, the wire will eventually break right where the
> wicked solder ends (under the insulation where that break cannot be
> immediately noticed).  So in high vibration environments such as
> avionics, soldering is a definite "no-no", but at the home station
> installation where the wires are seldom moved, soldering should be just
> as good or better than properly crimped terminals.  In your mobile
> installations, you might want to consider either crimping or supporting
> the wire for about 3 inches away from the soldered terminal.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/24/2012 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:
>> What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
>> me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
>> that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
>> vibration. I could be making it all up.
>>
>> I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for
>> the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps,
>> but I've had crimps fail too.
>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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[Ian Kahn, KM4IK]

Ron,

I use a Bencher BY-1 that I bought used on eBay.  I don't do too much
CW, so it was a great purchase for me.  It's inexpensive, solidly built,
and the foundation level key from one of the top names in CW paddles, if
you don't want to pay for a Vibroplex.

Hope this helps.

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
[hidden email]
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Ron,

For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is
about half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google).

I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell
you it is a work of art and extremely smooth operating.

For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or
look at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at
http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon.

Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably.  
Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2
- but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 -
we generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects,
but some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still
in good original condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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[Rick WA6NHC]

And if one uses silver based solder?

Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while from now.

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos

On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly*
> better than the other?
>
> Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a
> fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the
> cable and connector through which the current flows.
>
> IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because
> crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy
> to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC  
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing,
> solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld
> joining the wire to the terminal.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>

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