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K3 just goes off

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Mike Morrow-3

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

Ron wrote:

> The appeal of a J-38 is strictly nostalgic and, for me, it
> works as well as any other straight key that I've touched.

These keys have some military historical value as well.

The J-38 was never in operational/combat theater use...it was
used only for US Army radio operator Morse training.

The somewhat simpler J-37 was the key for actual service use.
There was one on every B-17/24/25/26/29 size aircraft, and
every C-45/46/47 cargo aircraft, and on every ground-based Army
fixed/mobile/portable MF/HF station. On various mounting
bases, it became the J-44, J-45 (KY-116/U), or J-48.

The key that served a similar role in the US Navy was the
navy type 26003 based on the Bendix MT-11B. This very fine
straight key is my personal favorite, but expect to pay
at minimum $50 US for a used surplus one, even at a hamfest
flea market.

I love old historical straight keys. There is nothing
equivalent in the iambic key world.

73,
Mike / KK5F

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Bob-270

Re: K3 just goes off

In reply to this post by Nate Bargmann

Every one should have one of these or another brand in their toolbox:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

Aside from monitoring that AC is present it is a check that all the wiring and
extensions were wired correctly.

73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR

On 6/25/2012 4:04 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
> Perhaps an LED lamp as an indicator that draws little current would provide an
> alert to the generator shutting down? 73, de Nate >>

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Bill K9YEQ

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

Yes,

IT packs into the Case much smaller and lighter than any Begali. I have
both, and only take the KXPD1 in my suitcase.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 3:19 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

OK, now -- hijacking this topic to ask a question of KX1 users...

I bought the paddle key attachment for my KX1 but I have not installed it
yet. I seem to prefer using my Begali key with my KX1. The attached KX1
paddle seems like a great feature for hiking in the mountains where the
weight of the Begali may become an issue. But, I doubt that hiking with a
KX1 is in my future. I hike with my wife and the mere idea of having some
electronic gismo with me is against her ideas for being up in the Cascades.

So, I am now leaning on not installing the attached paddle set. Unless
someone here has other good ideas for why it is useful. I have operated the
KX1 in a portable location on a picnic table in a park but the Begali is not
a problem in that situation. Actually, the last time I did that I forgot
the Begali and used my Bencher from my truck mobile rig.

Any good reason to keep and install the KX1 attached paddle?

73, phil, K7PEH

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vk4tux

Re: K3 just goes off - SOLVED

In reply to this post by Fred Townsend

As far as I know Teflon is a good insulator, capable of high
temperatures and pressures. If you say teflon wire, you give it the
false interpretation of being a conductor., like the guy that said
solder was a "poor"" conductor, really?

I did volt drop tests , I have professional crimp sets and solder
systems, being based in electrical trades for a living.

A topend fluke MM told me that I achieved 0.15v better VD figures across
the same cold weld (not "weld"), properly crimped connection for cable
size and type. You will not minimise the volt drop to best achievable
until soldered.

Test @ 20 amps.

A wet cloth wrap near the connection helps prevents solder run
(capillary action) down the conductor/cable.

A good ref here:
http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp

On 25/06/2012 20:16, Fred Townsend wrote:
> Rick I use Teflon wire for my battery leads.
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

Ron,

Instead of "making your own dashes", for which the timing can become
critical, I would suggest you help lobby Wayne to include Ultimatic mode
into the Elecraft keyers. It is the only way I can use dual lever
paddles - the last paddle closed gets priority - for instance to send a
"P", first close the dot paddle, then (keeping the dot paddle closed)
close the dash paddle long enough to begin the second dash, then release
the dash - the still held closed dot paddle will send the final dot.
Much more sensible to me than the alternating dots and dashes of the
Iambic modes. Ultimatic mode *can* be used like bug mode if a single
lever paddle is used (bugs were/are single lever machines).

As I recall, this was the mode used by the original W9TO keyers, and
prevailed until the Curtis chips became available.

Frankly, I cannot get used to the "finger keying" required by Iambic
modes. I learned on a bug and insist on paddles that have the
fingergrips high enough that I can "roll the wrist" -- it is the only
way I am comfortable. If I must use Iambic keying, I have to use a
single lever paddle which nullifies the Iambic part, and I can once
again send CW.

A note for the KX1 paddle - I found that was one dual lever paddle that
I could use (for some unknown reason), but the KX3 paddle (which is a
superb piece of engineering) requires that the user do "finger keying",
so it is not of much use to me.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 4:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I find the KX1 paddle nice to use, but as I said I am *not* picky about the
> sort of key I use.
>
> That said, the "feel" of any paddles I use is actually more important than
> the feel of a mechanical key, probably because paddles are operated with the
> fingers (instead or rolling one's whole hand on a bug or rocking ones entire
> forearm with a straight key).
>
> My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have about
> every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own dashes.
>

stan levandowski

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Ron wrote:

My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have
about

> every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own
> dashes.
> I would greatly enjoy a keyer mode that spits out dits automatically
> with
> one paddle and then allows me to make dashes with the other paddle
> manually.
> Right now, if I want to go portable with any of the rigs I must either
> haul
> a straight key with me (bugs don't travel well) or live with the
> keyer.

Ron, the Begali CW Machine (size is about "one-half KX1") has a complete
configuration menu which includes "Bug" emulation. Combined with one of
Piero's lesser known (and less expensive) products, the HST, the result
is a single key-paddle-keyer which gives its owner a superb single lever
non-iambic paddle, a great electonic 'bug', an upscale sideswiper, and -
if you simply lay it on it's left side - a very pleasant-to-use straight
key. All in one. The HST weighs a ton and has robust construction.
Travels well too as there's not a lot exposed to damage. Magnetic
return on the current production model. Handles very close spacing for
those so inclined.

73, Stan WB2LQF
www.wb2lqf.com
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Jim Low man

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft. Among other
things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.

My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
Pacificon in the late 90s. It was custom-made by the person
who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.

Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
here around the end of next month.

It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
I'm sure.

Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
similar price of $50.

72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

Jim,

I recently acquired an ZN-SLR single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN - it is
a work of art and has a very smooth action. For straight keys, I have 3
- one is an original J-38 that sits in the shack as a nostalgia
generating decoration. The other is a J-37 whose original base has been
lost and has been replaced by a piece of 3/8 inch thick oak extending
close to the center of the armature knob - that eliminates the
requirement for "two hand keying". I also recently acquired a British
key that I will try to see whether I like the British or the American
keying methods better. The British method certainly saves a lot of desk
space - the American method requires that you have enough space to place
your entire forearm on the desk.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:

> I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft. Among other
> things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.
>
> My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
> Pacificon in the late 90s. It was custom-made by the person
> who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
> Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.
>
> Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
> friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
> a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
> here around the end of next month.
>
> It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
> I'm sure.
>
> Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
> Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
> It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
> similar price of $50.
>
> 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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>

Jim Low man

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Stephen G4SJP

Stephen, I can vouch for the excellent customer service
from Begali. I ordered a Sculpture on June 15th, too
late in the day for business hours in Italy. When I
checked my e-mail the following Monday I had a note
from Bruna Begali that it would be shipped by the end
of the week.

Actually, it left Italy the next day. When I
looked up the DHL tracking number that Bruna sent on
Thursday, I found that it was out for delivery that day.
When I returned from lunch with the XYL, it was on the
front porch. Italy to the west coast of the US in four
days!

I was tempted to take it to show off at Field Day, since
Cam (N6GA) was bringing his new KX3. At this point,
I was afraid to take it outside the house.

The Sculpture is a beautiful piece of machine work,
and the feel is a dream. You won't regret the purchase.

72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 6/25/2012 7:07 AM, Stephen Prior wrote:
> I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy. It was a
> rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it! It just looks so
> cute in the photo on the Begali website! I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
> too big and heavy to leave my desk!
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
>

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Thomas Horsten

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

Jim,

Can only second that, I love my Begali Sculpture. It replaced my first
paddles, a Bencher, which fades rather in comparison.

Incidentally, I took it with me on a trip to Denmark with my FT817, but
only that one time, after that I've travelled lighter :) When I get the KX3
I will take that and use the built-in paddles, the Begali Sculpture is
really not suitable for portable operations but it is just such a great key
you feel like taking it along in spite of its weight.

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 25 June 2012 23:38, Jim Lowman <[hidden email]> wrote:

> The Sculpture is a beautiful piece of machine work,
> and the feel is a dream. You won't regret the purchase.
>
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David Bunte

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Jim Low man

Gee, and I can remember in about 1958 riding the train from the 'burbs into
Chicago for about $ .50, walking down to the surplus store, and buying new,
in the box J-38s for $ 1.95 each. They had hundreds, but short-sighted
teenager that I was, I only bought what I thought I needed at the time.

-Dave-
K9FN

On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman <[hidden email]> wrote:

Joe K2UF

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

My J-38 also came from Chicago in 1954 (still have it!!). Allied radio. I
would order parts from them about 2 to 3 times a month. Usually less than
$5.00 per order. Paper boys did not make much back then.

73 Joe K2UF

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of David Bunte
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 6:48 PM
To: Jim Lowman
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Gee, and I can remember in about 1958 riding the train from the 'burbs into
Chicago for about $ .50, walking down to the surplus store, and buying new,
in the box J-38s for $ 1.95 each. They had hundreds, but short-sighted
teenager that I was, I only bought what I thought I needed at the time.

-Dave-
K9FN

On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman <[hidden email]> wrote:

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

OK, so we are swapping old stories. I walked down the streets of
Cleveland, Ohio from Case Institute of Technology to the surplus store
somewhere near the 200 block of Carnegie Ave. to the local surplus
emporium. I was a student at Case Institute of Technology at the time.
I bought a straight key (J-38) and an ARC-5 receiver and transmitter.
With that gear plus a few mods, I was able to string a wire out of my
dorm room window and make some contacts. Yes, that was back in the 1959
time frame when a J38 key could be purchased for $1.50 and the ARC-5
transmitters and receivers were selling for $5 to $10.

I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham band
coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies. When I moved into the
fraternity house, they were much more receptive to me putting up
antennas. The antenna there was a Windom ( compare to other OCF
antennas) that suffered from many "RF-in-the-shack" problems. I recall
completing my 4-65A transmitter during that time frame - CW was great,
but I did a lot with grid modulation because I could not afford the big
modulation transformers required for plate modulation.

73,,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 7:26 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:
> My J-38 also came from Chicago in 1954 (still have it!!). Allied radio. I
> would order parts from them about 2 to 3 times a month. Usually less than
> $5.00 per order. Paper boys did not make much back then.
>
> 73 Joe K2UF
>
>

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vk4tux

Re: K3 just goes off - SOLVED

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Teflon is not a conductor in any sense and cannot be silver plated,
please stop this wrong information.

http://www.druflon.com/ptfeprop.html

http://webphysics.davidson.edu/faculty/dmb/PY430/Friction/teflon.html

PFTE or teflon wire in layman terms refers to the insulation insulating
the wire and not the wire itself,
which does infact need to be a conductor not a insulator. If I say
copper wire, then everyone plainly knows that the wire is made from
copper, but the incorrect term of teflon wire refers to the insulation
only, not the wire.

http://www.wesbellwireandcable.com/Teflon.html

PTFE has is a group of elements used in the manufacturing process of the
insulation for wire and cable that reaches high temperatures of 200°C.
PTFE Type E <Teflon/high-temperature-wire-ptfe-type-e.html> is the most
basic type of *high temperature wire* that comes in awg sizes 26 through
10. Other types of single conductor lead wire in high temperature are
Type EE <Teflon/high-temperature-wire-ptfe-type-ee.html> and Type ET
<Teflon/high-temperature-wire-ptfe-type-et.html> which are mostly used
for different voltage applications. Type EE is 1000 volts and Type ET is
250 volts along with a few more minor differences.

PTFE cables are known as STJ high temperature cables
<Teflon/stj-teflon-shielded-cable.html> which stands for *Shielded Tape
Jacket*. Even though it says "shielded" you can still get these PTFE
cables in an unshielded version. STJ cables use the same Type E lead
wires for the conductors so that all of the insulation in the cable is
rated for 200°C.

For various kinds of *high temperature wire*, the National Electric Code
specified that the corrections for the ampacity of each cable should be
done if the wire will be exposed to high temperatures. This especially
holds true when these wires are exposed to temperatures that are higher
than the originally prescribed value. The fixed maximum value for the
temperature is at 86 degrees Fahrenheit or 30 degrees Celsius.

Another factor that should be considered is the amount of current that
passes through the cable. If you are planning to use higher voltage, it
is likely that there will also be a high degree of current that flows
through the cable. When this happens, additional heat builds up not only
in the wire itself but also in the other structures that surround the
wire. These structures include the wire jacket and the wire insulation.

It is important to derate the terminals to improve the ampacity of the
wire that you will use. Ampacity is the acceptable value for the amount
of current that passes through the wire. Usually, this is measured in
Amperes. Another method to improve the ampacity of your wire is through
the use of ampacity correction. Ampacity correction is the manipulation
of a certain factor in order to adjust the ambient temperature of the
high temperature wire <Teflon/high-temperature-wire-ptfe-type-e.html>.
In other words, the fixed value for high temperature tolerace is shifted
to accommodate the high amount of current that passes through this wire.
As a result, the heat produced is significantly decreased.

In the field of industrial heating, most of the standard classifications
of wires can tolerate continuous exposure to temperatures that can be as
high as 200 degrees Celsius. Usually, these cables are covered with an
insulating jacket made of Silicon, PVC or PTFE. Aside from that, these
wires are also equipped with a metallic jacket to preserve the integrity
of the insulation material of the conductor.

These wires are also known to tolerate working temperatures that can go
as high as 630°C. This occurs when the voltage a maximum of
approximately 600 Volts. To withstand these conditions, these wires
should be coated with a different type of insulating unit as compared to
the conventional wires. Commonly, industrial experts have made use of
fiberglass braided jackets and MICA tapes. These are treated with
saturants that were proven to withstand high temperatures. To add
protection to the integrity of the cables, you may also avail of jackets
that are made of stainless steel.

These wires have a lot of uses. In the home setting. It can be used for
(1) microwave ovens; (2) stoves; (3) commercial cooking equipment; (4)
electrical grilling systems; and (5) coffee makers. In the commercial
setting, these can be used for (1) sensors; (2) automotive; (3) oil
exploration equipment; (4) computer units; (5) power plants; (6)
cellular base stations; (7) turbine power generation systems; and (8)
microwave RF systems. Recently, the high temperature wire has also been
used in the military field and the commercial aerospace industry.

Please call with any questions about our PTFE wire or PTFE cables
<Teflon/stj-teflon-unshielded-cable.html>.

On 25/06/2012 23:46, Fred Townsend wrote:

> Teflon is a conductor in the sense that Teflon does not get along with
> copper and therefore will always be silver plated and therefore have a
> slightly lower resistance than copper alone and since the power poles are
> silver plated as well, will not have any galvanic noise or corrosion. Teflon
> wire also solders easier than copper.
> Teflon insulation has both good and bad characteristics and is not approved
> for some NASA applications.
> 73, Fred
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:[hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Adrian
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 2:41 PM
> To:[hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
>
> As far as I know Teflon is a good insulator, capable of high temperatures
> and pressures. If you say teflon wire, you give it the false interpretation
> of being a conductor., like the guy that said solder was a "poor""
> conductor, really?
>
> I did volt drop tests , I have professional crimp sets and solder systems,
> being based in electrical trades for a living.
>
> A topend fluke MM told me that I achieved 0.15v better VD figures across the
> same cold weld (not "weld"), properly crimped connection for cable size and
> type. You will not minimise the volt drop to best achievable until soldered.
>
> Test @ 20 amps.
>
> A wet cloth wrap near the connection helps prevents solder run (capillary
> action) down the conductor/cable.
>
> A good ref here:
> http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp
>
>
>
> On 25/06/2012 20:16, Fred Townsend wrote:
>> Rick I use Teflon wire for my battery leads.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home:http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
> This list hosted by:http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list:http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

Mike Morrow-3

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Don wrote:

> I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham
> band coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies.

At least, all ham bands that could be found within the 200 to
600 kHz and 1500 to 18100 kHz coverage of the BC-348 (aka
AN/ARR-11). This was the best military MF/HF aircraft receiver
in the world from 1936 to a few years post-WWII.

I have ten of the various models of the BC-348 in original
military (un-ham hacked) condition. My BC-348-P goes
with my BC-375-E transmitter to make the SCR-287-A
MF/HF aircraft radio set. My BC-348-R goes with my
T-47A/ART-13 transmitter to make the AN/ARC-8 MF/HF
aircraft radio set. This last combo was still in
service on some older USAF aircraft as late as 1971!

I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets, but vintage
military gear, always in its original military configuration,
still resides at KK5F. One can't as easily appreciate the
advances made with modern gear like the KX3 without knowing
some of the past.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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k6dgw

[Elecraft ]Really old receivers[was CW Key suggestions ?]

On 6/25/2012 7:53 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

> I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets

I do. It was a cheap way to get a receiver at the time [very young
teenagerhood] down at Surplus Sams on Pico Blvd in LAX. I had one,
thought myself fortunate when I later inherited an SA-28 to replace it.
There's no comparison to receivers of today of course, and I do not
want to go back to the "good old days." I like my Elecraft radios more
than I can tell you. I thoroughly enjoyed those teenage days, but
technology has moved on and I'm not a teen anymore. The bands aren't
what they were then either.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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kevinr@coho.net

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Mike Morrow-3

I grew up with an attic full of ARC 5s. My dad was the radar/radioman
on B-24s and the radioman on B-17s so he kept them all in fine shape.
When I opened one I found perfect solder joints with each resistor lined
up EXACTLY with the next one. Each was a piece of art which I admired.

As far as paddles? I find I use my Schurr Profi very little. The
Begali Simplex is so much nicer. If the Profi had stiff finger pieces I
would use it much more.
Kevin. KD5ONS

On 6/25/2012 7:53 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

> Don wrote:
>
>> I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham
>> band coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies.
> At least, all ham bands that could be found within the 200 to
> 600 kHz and 1500 to 18100 kHz coverage of the BC-348 (aka
> AN/ARR-11). This was the best military MF/HF aircraft receiver
> in the world from 1936 to a few years post-WWII.
>
> I have ten of the various models of the BC-348 in original
> military (un-ham hacked) condition. My BC-348-P goes
> with my BC-375-E transmitter to make the SCR-287-A
> MF/HF aircraft radio set. My BC-348-R goes with my
> T-47A/ART-13 transmitter to make the AN/ARC-8 MF/HF
> aircraft radio set. This last combo was still in
> service on some older USAF aircraft as late as 1971!
>
> I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets, but vintage
> military gear, always in its original military configuration,
> still resides at KK5F. One can't as easily appreciate the
> advances made with modern gear like the KX3 without knowing
> some of the past.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

daleputnam

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

I have a Shurr with stiff and longer finger pieces, and it compare well to any of the other paddles I have. This was one of the paddles that was being completed, when Mr. Shurr passed on.
Have a great day,
Dale - WC7S

-----Original Message-----
From: kevinr <[hidden email]>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 03:33:59
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

I grew up with an attic full of ARC 5s. My dad was the radar/radioman
on B-24s and the radioman on B-17s so he kept them all in fine shape.
When I opened one I found perfect solder joints with each resistor lined
up EXACTLY with the next one. Each was a piece of art which I admired.

As far as paddles? I find I use my Schurr Profi very little. The
Begali Simplex is so much nicer. If the Profi had stiff finger pieces I
would use it much more.
Kevin. KD5ONS

On 6/25/2012 7:53 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

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Rick WA6NHC

Re: K3 just goes off - SOLVED

In reply to this post by Fred Townsend

Apparently, based on the input here, I'm doing it all wrong by crimp and
solder. But since I started that, I've not had a failure (back when Molex
was king). Most times the actual connection is secured from motion (not
vibration) while the tails are allowed to move, if needed. Yes, I use the
proper crimp tool for the connector, but I doubt it is certified.

Rick NHC

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Townsend

Rick I use Teflon wire for my battery leads. Teflon wire is silver plated.

The Anderson power poles are silver plated too. While I can not quote

chapter and verse most NASA applications require crimp (with certified

crimper). There are at least two reasons. Solder wets and runs within silver

braid very quickly so the solder runs into the insulated part of the wire

and causes brittle fractures inside the insulation. Also the solder and flux

can get into the power pole contact area and increase contact resistance.

Flux has been known to flow out of solder connections years after

installation. The flux flows when the contact heats. The two effects have

been known to cause thermal runaway. Yes crimp is better than solder

especially for high power DC.

BTW most silver bearing solders the most common being Sn96Ag4 (not to be

confused with silver solder) carry at most 4% silver. That doesn't offset

the other 96% being a poorer conductor than copper.

73, Fred, AE6QL.

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Phil Salas

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

I've had a lot of keys in my 48 years of hamming - and I've kept them all
(they are on display in my living room!). For portable use, I've used a
Palm Paddle for several years. Very nice, light, inexpensive and works very
well. I just replaced it with a Begali Traveller Light. The Begali is
excellant, but the trade-off is cost, weight and size. To me the trade-off
is worth it. My home key is a Begali Sculpture.

Phil - AD5X

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1234