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K3 just goes off

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John Strandberg

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle
to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving
slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on
my 'list' the whole time. About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking
straight key. It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the
same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for
a straight key. Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to
Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service
reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex. Received it this past Thursday.
It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a
purchase I'll never regret.

73 John W4DX

On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter <[hidden email]>wrote:

> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Bill K9YEQ

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it. It was in mint
condition. I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable
price.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 7:48 PM
To: Ronald Nutter
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Ron,

For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is about
half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google).

I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell you it
is a work of art and extremely smooth operating.

For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or look
at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at
http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon.

Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably.
Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2
- but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 - we
generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects, but
some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still in good
original condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

k6dgw

Re: K3 just goes off - SOLVED

In reply to this post by Hisashi T Fujinaka

I have been told, sometimes by reliable sources, that proper crimping
actually pressure welds the contact to the copper wire. Soldering on
the other hand heats the copper to around 750F and it then cools fairly
fast which hardens it. Then, under vibration, it fatigues and breaks.
I've heard this said about soldering dipole connections too.

I can tell you that NASA crimped [very carefully] and did not solder on
the Apollo program.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org
On 6/24/2012 4:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:
> What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
> me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
> that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
> vibration. I could be making it all up.
>
> I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for
> the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps,
> but I've had crimps fail too.

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Joe K2UF

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Hi Ron,

You will probably get many different suggestions about keys. I would
suggest picking up a good used Bencher paddle at a flee market or on the
internet sites. Probably get one for around $50. I have three of them, one
in my truck and two here in the shack. They look fragile but can take a
beating. When my grand daughter (four years old) is here she likes to play
with the one on the operating desk. I have to make sure the rig is not live
when she is here. It take her abuse and keeps on ticking. And the one in
the truck gets bounced around quite a bit but never stops working. They
send CW pretty good also. ;o)

Good luck es 73, Joe K2UF

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Ronald Nutter
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:24 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about
getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that
I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
interim.

I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do
CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
currently am.

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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w1pns

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Ron,

Nye-Viking certainly would be a good choice for a straight key. I recommend taking a look at the new-old stock Czech military keys on eBay. I have one, and it is very smooth. It looks unusual, but if you take it into the field at all with your KX3, that cover will do a nice job of keeping the 'skeeters out! ;-)

With best regards,

Pete
W1PNS

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Nutter" <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:23:51 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about
getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that
I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
interim.

I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do
CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
currently am.

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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Leroy

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by John Strandberg

N3ZN Keys. Beautiful, precision, fully adjustable, AMERICAN made.
I have lots of keys(including Schurr) and it’s the one I use.

Leroy AB7CE

-----Original Message-----
From: John Strandberg
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:59 PM
To: Ronald Nutter
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle
to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving
slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on
my 'list' the whole time. About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking
straight key. It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the
same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for
a straight key. Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to
Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service
reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex. Received it this past Thursday.
It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a
purchase I'll never regret.

73 John W4DX

On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter
<[hidden email]>wrote:

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Tom McCulloch

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Bill K9YEQ

I had a J-38 as a kid (as many of us did) and started to feet nostalgic
about it. A few years back I bought one on E-bay. So now I don't feel
nostalgic anymore, but I also don't use the J-28. Keys have come a long
way since WW II and thankfully so.

It was a nice key when it was a buck fifty but now I see mint J-38 are
going in the $50 range. No for me.

Tom
wb2qdg
K2 1103

On 6/24/2012 9:14 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

> I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it. It was in mint
> condition. I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable
> price.
>
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
>
>

"Hjalmar Duklæt"

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Barry

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Depends on your budget. IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali. In my experience, Bencher is one of the worst.

Barry W2UP

Ronald Nutter wrote

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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Phil Hystad-3

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic classic. Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time. But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it. It is fine for the truck. Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer) straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other adjustment necessary. So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.

I think the most overrated key is the J-38. I see people praising it here and I don't get it. Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra weight to keep it in one place. Back when I used it, I did not have extra weight so keying was a two handed job for me. My right hand for Morse and my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.

73, phil, K7PEH

On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:

> Depends on your budget. IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali. In my
> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>
> Barry W2UP
>
>
> Ronald Nutter wrote
>>
>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
>>
>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ron
>> KA4KYI
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@.qth
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558109.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
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hf4me

Chasing my Foot Switch

You guys are describing problems that relate to a foot switch as well (I
know - crossed fingers held high and all about something other than CW). I
had the problems with the key as well and just sit my Kent on some of the
non-skid shelf bumpy stuff, helps a lot.

My foot switch is mounted on a 6 inch wide piece of 1/4 plywood x 15
inches?( so my foot sits on the same board as the switch but the height of
it was never right either so placed another board (1x6) in front of the
switch so now it is "just right" as far as I am concerned. Just a slight
movement of toes down to key and just relax to unkey. Very little actual
movement. Oh, the entire board is covered with the bumpy shelf stuff and my
foot doesn't slide around and I don't have to chase the switch around
either.

73, de Jim KG0KP

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Stephen G4SJP

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy. It was a
rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it! It just looks so
cute in the photo on the Begali website! I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
too big and heavy to leave my desk!

73 Stephen G4SJP
On 25 June 2012 15:02, Phil Hystad <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic
> classic. Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.
> But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it. It
> is fine for the truck. Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes
> I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and
> so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer)
> straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other
> adjustment necessary. So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>
> I think the most overrated key is the J-38. I see people praising it here
> and I don't get it. Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice
> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra
> weight to keep it in one place. Back when I used it, I did not have extra
> weight so keying was a two handed job for me. My right hand for Morse and
> my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>
> > Depends on your budget. IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali. In my
> > experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
> >
> > Barry W2UP
> >
> >
> > Ronald Nutter wrote
> >>
> >> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
> >>
> >> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ron
> >> KA4KYI
> >> ______________________________________________________________
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@.qth
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558109.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
> ______________________________________________________________
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>

alsopb

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

Any key will do as long as you use it. Reduced CW receiving speed
generally has little to to do with the key. It does have a lot to do
with having CW QSO's.

Alternatively, skip the straight key and go straight to a bug or keyer.

Now I'm going to contradict the above.
Unlike conventional wisdom, my CW speed as a novice went up through the
Extra class level by practicing sending. Take a page from anywhere and
keep sending it as fast as possible. Time how long it takes. Easy to
keep track of progress. Receiving pace seemed to track with increased
sending speed.

Good thing about this is that one doesn't even need a key. I used to
tap on my knee during high school classes--sending what was on the
chalkboard. At least it kept me awake during History class.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 6/25/2012 14:02, Phil Hystad wrote:

> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic classic. Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time. But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it. It is fine for the truck. Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer) straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other adjustment necessary. So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>
> I think the most overrated key is the J-38. I see people praising it here and I don't get it. Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra weight to keep it in one place. Back when I used it, I did not have extra weight so keying was a two handed job for me. My right hand for Morse and my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>
>> Depends on your budget. IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali. In my
>> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>>
>> Barry W2UP
>>
>>
>> Ronald Nutter wrote
>>>
>>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
>>>
>>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ron
>>> KA4KYI
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@.qth
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558109.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> ______________________________________________________________
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>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Ken Chandler

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Stephen G4SJP

Any-other super key is the Chevron, They are hand built in the UK, they come in either Solid Bronze, Gold plated, or Chrome.
Check out the chevron web site.
Cant give the web address, I'm on the River Kennet, Fly fishing.

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone

On 25 Jun 2012, at 15:07, Stephen Prior <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy. It was a
> rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it! It just looks so
> cute in the photo on the Begali website! I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
> too big and heavy to leave my desk!
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
> On 25 June 2012 15:02, Phil Hystad <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic
>> classic. Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.
>> But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it. It
>> is fine for the truck. Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes
>> I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and
>> so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer)
>> straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other
>> adjustment necessary. So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>>
>> I think the most overrated key is the J-38. I see people praising it here
>> and I don't get it. Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice
>> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra
>> weight to keep it in one place. Back when I used it, I did not have extra
>> weight so keying was a two handed job for me. My right hand for Morse and
>> my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>>
>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>>
>>
>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>>
>>> Depends on your budget. IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali. In my
>>> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>>>
>>> Barry W2UP
>>>
>>>
>>> Ronald Nutter wrote
>>>>
>>>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
>>>>
>>>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Ron
>>>> KA4KYI
>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@.qth
>>>>
>>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558109.html
>>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>>> ______________________________________________________________
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MontyS

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

Phil,

The trick used to keep the J38 in place without weights or screws was to reverse it on the bakelite base, so the key knob fell over the base. You could then key away without problems. I use some anti-skid tape to help.

Monty K2DLJ

On Jun 25, 2012, at 10:02 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

Fred Townsend

Re: K3 just goes off

In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net

Lee I had exactly the same problem at FD this year. Before I illuminate the
problem a little background. We were running 2A with additional GOTA and VHF
stations. Last year the very noisy old 6KW generator puked a piston so it
was time to retire it. We wanted a new generator that could be carried by
one and quiet. We chose a Honda EU2000 thinking if we needed more capacity
we could parallel it with a second generator.

We set up each station with a 100ah battery with charger. The batteries
would act as filters since the automotive chargers were totally without
filtering or regulation. The batteries would act as power demand leveling as
well since demand was expected to exceed 2KW with everyone key down.

I was behind my K3 changing the unused antenna when my operating partner
indicated the K3 had turned off. Thinking it was something I had done I
circled around and turned the K3 back on. My partner resumed the contact but
the K3 soon died again. A spin of K3 metering VFO2 dial showed <11VDC. I
checked with our CW station who was still pounding brass. He indicated his
Laptop had died so he was now paper logging. Finally we realized the
generator had stopped. When refueling the generator it was cool indicating
it had been off for some time. We had operated totally on batteries until
the batteries started to fail, one by one.

Conclusion: A little acoustical noise from the generator is a good thing.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Lee Buller
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 7:16 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off

This has not happened to me before....

Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room

PA 35C FP 31C

The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power
button....comes back on.

Anyone see this before....I have not.

Lee

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you
can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common
Sense. Is Common Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my
mind.
- John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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Nate Bargmann

Re: K3 just goes off

* On 2012 25 Jun 14:43 -0500, Fred Townsend wrote:

> Conclusion: A little acoustical noise from the generator is a good thing.

Heh! I was actually proposing the idea of an EU2000 or another quiet
generator before next year's outing. Our current model is plenty loud
and we've used batteries the past couple of years to preserve the peace
in the park we operate FD from. Just how quiet is it?

This year we did run the batteries down to where my K3 powered off and a
third battery had to be pressed into service.

Perhaps an LED lamp as an indicator that draws little current would
provide an alert to the generator shutting down?

73, de Nate >>

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Fred Townsend

Re: K3 just goes off - SOLVED

In reply to this post by Rick WA6NHC

Rick I use Teflon wire for my battery leads. Teflon wire is silver plated.
The Anderson power poles are silver plated too. While I can not quote
chapter and verse most NASA applications require crimp (with certified
crimper). There are at least two reasons. Solder wets and runs within silver
braid very quickly so the solder runs into the insulated part of the wire
and causes brittle fractures inside the insulation. Also the solder and flux
can get into the power pole contact area and increase contact resistance.
Flux has been known to flow out of solder connections years after
installation. The flux flows when the contact heats. The two effects have
been known to cause thermal runaway. Yes crimp is better than solder
especially for high power DC.
BTW most silver bearing solders the most common being Sn96Ag4 (not to be
confused with silver solder) carry at most 4% silver. That doesn't offset
the other 96% being a poorer conductor than copper.
73, Fred, AE6QL.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Rick Bates
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 5:59 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED

And if one uses silver based solder?

Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while
from now.

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos

On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is
> *significantly* better than the other?
>
> Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking
> about a fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating
> surface of the cable and connector through which the current flows.
>
> IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder
> because crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that
> it is as easy to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one
> thing, solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually
> a weld joining the wire to the terminal.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>

Phil Hystad-3

Re: CW Key suggestions ?

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

OK, now -- hijacking this topic to ask a question of KX1 users...

I bought the paddle key attachment for my KX1 but I have not installed it yet. I seem to prefer using my Begali key with my KX1. The attached KX1 paddle seems like a great feature for hiking in the mountains where the weight of the Begali may become an issue. But, I doubt that hiking with a KX1 is in my future. I hike with my wife and the mere idea of having some electronic gismo with me is against her ideas for being up in the Cascades.

So, I am now leaning on not installing the attached paddle set. Unless someone here has other good ideas for why it is useful. I have operated the KX1 in a portable location on a picnic table in a park but the Begali is not a problem in that situation. Actually, the last time I did that I forgot the Begali and used my Bencher from my truck mobile rig.

Any good reason to keep and install the KX1 attached paddle?

73, phil, K7PEH

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WB4SON

Re: K3 just goes off

In reply to this post by Nate Bargmann

Sounds like you need to get an extended gas cap and tank for your EU2000 --
I have a 6-gallon boat tank hooked up to mine and it will run at full power
output for well over 24 hours. With that setup you would fill it with gas
at the start of the contest and just turn it off when you were done. At
lower power demand levels it will run a couple of days without refiling the
tank.

Given the duty cycle of the rigs and the capacity of the battery, that
generator must have been off for real long time to burn through a 100 AH
battery.

73, Bob, WB4SON
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73, Bob, WB4SON

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