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OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

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Eugene Worth-2

OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Sorry for the OT post … but I am thinking of using one of my Elecraft rigs in the truck … mobile applications.

Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the Silverado 1500 for 2017?

And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?

Thanks in advance. I’ve tried on the Chevrolet.com <http://chevrolet.com/> website, and they simply list the outlets, not the amp rating.

Nice prices now for the trucks. Thinking hard about it, but I didn’t want to run power cables from my battery to the interior of the truck if I didn’t need to.

PS: This is for a 10w K2, but it would be nice to run 50w or 100w with the K3 if it would work.

Thanks!

gene
WG7GW

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Ken G Kopp

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

I would expect to find the info in the owner's manual. Or your
dealership's
service desk.

73!

K0PP

On Jun 26, 2017 22:58, "Eugene Worth" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Sorry for the OT post … but I am thinking of using one of my Elecraft rigs
> in the truck … mobile applications.
>
> Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the
> Silverado 1500 for 2017?
>
> And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?
>
> Thanks in advance. I’ve tried on the Chevrolet.com <http://chevrolet.com/>
> website, and they simply list the outlets, not the amp rating.
>
> Nice prices now for the trucks. Thinking hard about it, but I didn’t want
> to run power cables from my battery to the interior of the truck if I
> didn’t need to.
>
> PS: This is for a 10w K2, but it would be nice to run 50w or 100w with the
> K3 if it would work.
>
> Thanks!
>
> gene
> WG7GW
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Phil Hystad-3

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Eugene Worth-2

Gene,

Well, my Silverado is 2004, not 2017, but HD2500 Crew Cab, which is a little bigger than a 1500.

I didn’t bother with trying to use existing wiring, rather I just took my truck down to the local Car Toys dealership and told them what I wanted and they did it. They are experts at wiring vehicles for huge amp draws from the battery due to the likes of people wanting to have some huge audio amp pushing several hundred watts of power into the speaker systems they also added to a car.

So, I had the wiring done up to handle 80 amps because at the time this was being done I was also contemplating a 500 watt amplifier (the SGC Cube). They ran the positive and negative lines, which were about almost 1/3 inch in diameter under the frame to the crew cab (rear) area where the brought the cables up thru the floor where they placed a high-current distribution box where I could hook up my own wiring to then rig (or rigs).

I also had them create a nice pass-thru coaxial adapter for hooking up my antenna coax which ran under the frame to the back corner panel by the stake hole and up to where my Hi-Q antenna was located. Everything waterproof of course. And, I had them add about 6 placed ground straps between different parts of the truck frame and cab to ensure that everything was well grounded.

About $400 for the entire job or about the cost for dinner for two at the Herb Farm Restaurant in Woodinville, Washington.

There is one thing I would look into and that is the RFI you would cause to the electronics in the truck. With a 100-watt output on my rig I could cause some of the engine check lights to flash on. Nothing bad ever happened but the lights would often stay on until the engine was shutdown and when started again everything was fine. This only happened on the 40 meter band though. Must have been just the right coupling at those frequencies.

The 2017 vehicles have a lot more electronics and computers one them then the ones back in 2004 and you are likely to have some problems (possibly) and even with 100 watts or maybe even less. A K2 at 10 watts is probably not a problem though.

73, phil, K7PEH

> On Jun 26, 2017, at 9:48 PM, Eugene Worth <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Sorry for the OT post … but I am thinking of using one of my Elecraft rigs in the truck … mobile applications.
>
> Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the Silverado 1500 for 2017?
>
> And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?
>
> Thanks in advance. I’ve tried on the Chevrolet.com <http://chevrolet.com/> website, and they simply list the outlets, not the amp rating.
>
> Nice prices now for the trucks. Thinking hard about it, but I didn’t want to run power cables from my battery to the interior of the truck if I didn’t need to.
>
> PS: This is for a 10w K2, but it would be nice to run 50w or 100w with the K3 if it would work.
>
> Thanks!
>
> gene
> WG7GW
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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Rick WA6NHC-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Gene,

I also have a Chevy 2500HD with the Duramax/Allison combination and it's
a 2007. It's purpose in life is to haul the RV and it's never failed
me... even on places like Alaska, YT and the wilds of Southern
California where the roads are even worse.

First your questions: Look at the fuse block, that will give you a
specific answer, not likely more than 10 amps. They're always on, not
ignition sensed (that means pay attention if parked for a while, even
with the two batteries standard on diesel).

BUT: I would NOT trust the power ports for any radio (other than my
scanner, which draws less than an amp). The chassis bonding is suspect
at best and it's a great place to listen for noise; which isn't what you
want to hear. It's not clean power. It's also a direct feed into the
same circuits that manage the engine, the diagnostics, as well as most
of the 'features' of the vehicle. Connecting to the battery (a HUGE
capacitor) removes most of that concern.

Moving on, here is what I did.

Like Phil, I also ran a separate circuit just for RF gear (my mobile is
the TS-480HX, peak draw about 42 amps). I run #12 romex to both battery
leads; self resetting 50 amp automotive circuit breakers (auto parts
store, not WalMart) next to the battery to protect the wiring on BOTH
the positive and negative leads (KEY POINT, BOTH are run to the
battery)*. That runs to the back seat where it goes into a distribution
block for the HF and VHF radios, each radio protected by the proper fuse
at that point. The RF deck is solidly bonded to the chassis and a
couple ferrite chokes are used (on on the Tarheel control line and on
the mic/control head lines). The antenna is attached to the bed of the
truck which is solidly attached (several points) to the frame (I could
likely improve it but haven't found the need). [Yes, I technically
exceed the 50A limit but I don't talk on both radios at the same time.]

The only noise I get from the engine is injector noise on 20M, which is
removed by the noise blanker. The only issue I have is occasional
turning off of the cruise control while on 40M (200 watts output). If I
have the scanner antenna attached, there is a little more RF getting
into the electronics but nothing fatal. Now that I know the cause, I
unplug the scanner antenna if on HF.

* The power wires are run through the gap in the fender from the engine
compartment (around the firewall, not through) to the A column (front of
the door frame), is carefully bent to match the post shape then run
under the door seal (on the column) to the wiring channel under the
doors. Yes, it's visible if the door is open and the seals form around
it. Being that it never is fully 'outside', rain does not leak in. The
distribution is an APP block and the connectors are taped once attached
to the block (because APP opens at the worst possible moment and the
road vibration ensures that; tape is a cheap lock/fix).

After over 80k miles I can say it works. The control heads are mounted
on the dash (I built a metal frame so the dash doesn't have holes in it)
and I put a towel over them to keep the sun off (and prying eyes when
parked). I chose the '480 because it is a mobile radio capable of 200
watts output which pays off in a mobile environment. It's not Elecraft
quality but I don't listen to low level signals while hauling the RV;
it's adequate for the task and the controls are very simple.

Another key point about mobile installs is that the driver operator
should not have to take the eyes out of the normal scan path while
driving to make a change on the radio. Left mirror, windshield, center
mirror, windshield, right mirror, windshield, gauges, windshield,
repeat. Having the rig controls within that scan window makes for a
much safer driver. It is a deadly SIN to put the controls in a place
that the driver can't use peripheral vision (at the least) while
effecting a change on the controls. Tactile isn't good enough. That
removes the K3 (probably the K2 as well) from your choices unless you
only operate while parked (then get outside!) or as a passenger.
Remember that with the engine NOT running, the voltages are lower,
performance will be diminished (including signal purity). Remember that
parts of the dash are also air bags and your radio could be implanted in
your face during an accident, choose your location wisely.

Also note that some states (CA and NV for sure) currently do not allow
any driver (except LE/FD) to operate a radio (it's changing in CA but is
currently illegal). CO has an equally restrictive 'distraction' law as
well, so do not become an issue (or statistic). In the rush to create
more anti-texting laws (a good thing in concept but enforcement of
existing laws makes better sense) many of the laws are written by folks
that don't know how to write laws and do not consider radio users
(private or commercial) then lump them in together with cell phones.
Check your local laws.

73,
Rick wa6nhc/7 North ID

On 6/26/2017 10:46 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

> Gene,
>
> Well, my Silverado is 2004, not 2017, but HD2500 Crew Cab, which is a little bigger than a 1500.
>
> I didn’t bother with trying to use existing wiring, rather I just took my truck down to the local Car Toys dealership and told them what I wanted and they did it. They are experts at wiring vehicles for huge amp draws from the battery due to the likes of people wanting to have some huge audio amp pushing several hundred watts of power into the speaker systems they also added to a car.
>
> So, I had the wiring done up to handle 80 amps because at the time this was being done I was also contemplating a 500 watt amplifier (the SGC Cube). They ran the positive and negative lines, which were about almost 1/3 inch in diameter under the frame to the crew cab (rear) area where the brought the cables up thru the floor where they placed a high-current distribution box where I could hook up my own wiring to then rig (or rigs).
>
> I also had them create a nice pass-thru coaxial adapter for hooking up my antenna coax which ran under the frame to the back corner panel by the stake hole and up to where my Hi-Q antenna was located. Everything waterproof of course. And, I had them add about 6 placed ground straps between different parts of the truck frame and cab to ensure that everything was well grounded.
>
> About $400 for the entire job or about the cost for dinner for two at the Herb Farm Restaurant in Woodinville, Washington.
>
> There is one thing I would look into and that is the RFI you would cause to the electronics in the truck. With a 100-watt output on my rig I could cause some of the engine check lights to flash on. Nothing bad ever happened but the lights would often stay on until the engine was shutdown and when started again everything was fine. This only happened on the 40 meter band though. Must have been just the right coupling at those frequencies.
>
> The 2017 vehicles have a lot more electronics and computers one them then the ones back in 2004 and you are likely to have some problems (possibly) and even with 100 watts or maybe even less. A K2 at 10 watts is probably not a problem though.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
>> On Jun 26, 2017, at 9:48 PM, Eugene Worth <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Sorry for the OT post … but I am thinking of using one of my Elecraft rigs in the truck … mobile applications.
>>
>> Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the Silverado 1500 for 2017?
>>
>> And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?
>>
>> Thanks in advance. I’ve tried on the Chevrolet.com <http://chevrolet.com/> website, and they simply list the outlets, not the amp rating.
>>
>> Nice prices now for the trucks. Thinking hard about it, but I didn’t want to run power cables from my battery to the interior of the truck if I didn’t need to.
>>
>> PS: This is for a 10w K2, but it would be nice to run 50w or 100w with the K3 if it would work.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> gene
>> WG7GW
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

Clay Autery-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3

I would like to echo the recommendation to NOT use the existing vehicle
wiring.... for a number of reasons. While you can likely "get away with
it" on a 10W rig (if you don't mind playing Russian Roulette with the
quality of the grounds, noise makers on/near the circuit, et al.), it is
my considered opinion that MOST amateur radio installs will benefit
GREATLY from an upgraded electrical system, and dedicated circuit(s).

But I didn't pay some stereo outfit to do it...

I did it myself... of course, I was ALSO planning for a potentially
large draw from a stereo and external emergency supplemental lighting
and power ports.
NOTE: I drive an '04 F150 Heritage, but the principles are the same
regardless of vehicle.

I put the largest battery that would fit into the existing tray. I
upgraded to a 275+ Amp alternator (50% overhead). I REPLACED the
existing MAIN power harness wiring from the battery to starter relay, to
solenoid, to starter, to alternator, to ALL station 1 and 2 grounds
(engine bay and cab). I installed massive terminals on the battery with
through bolts allowing the attachment of a large number of terminals. I
used top quality welding wire and upped the wire size NO LESS than 2
sizes... mostly, I made them as large as I could route and fit. I used
marine grade ring terminals and a hammer set tool (in my vice) to set
the terminals. Each terminal was back-soldered to seal up the strands,
and then dual layer heat-shrink with sealing adhesive. ALL new wires
(neoprene insulation) are enclosed in wire loom anywhere they can get
close to engine heat.

Finally, I ran massive 00 (I think... maybe larger?) POS and NEG runs
into the cab via the firewall (no under the truck runs!!!) to
distribution terminals under the driver's seat. From there, I can
connect up pretty much whatever I want.
BOTH home runs are fused with an appropriately rated fast blow fuse...
If it touches the limit, it will let go at the fuse before jeopardizing
any of the equipment.

This is amateur radio... we are supposed to be learning/using new
skills.... Here's your chance to learn something new. Get the service
and wiring manuals for your chosen auto... THAT should be standard for
EVERY vehicle. You cannot possibly properly maintain a vehicle without
the service manuals. <smile>

OK... so that's a general look at how I did it... bulletproof and
future-"proof". All I have to do to make a "proper" place for an HF
radio now is finish bonding the rest of the truck chassis together with
the engine bay, cab, and front frame. Without a dedicated LARGE
conductor "ground" (return) system, you cannot guarantee the same
"ground" potential from all points in the big metal hunk.

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 12:46 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

Craig LaBarge

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Eugene Worth-2

Gene:

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 double-cab. The 12V outlet on the dashboard
is on all the time. There's one inside the center console and one on the
rear of the console (for rear passengers) that are switched.

I don't know what the current ratings are but I use the one in the rear to
power my Yaesu FT-8800 dual-band rig at full power (50W on 2M) with no
issues. I occasionally use the one on the dash to power an APRS tracker (8
watts).

I haven't used an HF rig with the power outlets but on VHF/UHF I have no
detectable noise. Again, I don't know if that would be the case at HF.

Hope this helps.

73, Craig WB3GCK
http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/
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Bob McGraw - K4TAX

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Eugene Worth-2

My Silverado power outlets are always ON and are fused at 10 amps.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/26/2017 11:48 PM, Eugene Worth wrote:
> Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the Silverado 1500 for 2017?
>
> And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?
>
>
>
>

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Eugene Worth-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Craig LaBarge

Thanks, all!

I’ll be picking up the new truck soon …

gene
WG7GW

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 3:44 AM, Craig LaBarge <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Gene:
>
> I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 double-cab. The 12V outlet on the dashboard is on all the time. There's one inside the center console and one on the rear of the console (for rear passengers) that are switched.
>
> I don't know what the current ratings are but I use the one in the rear to power my Yaesu FT-8800 dual-band rig at full power (50W on 2M) with no issues. I occasionally use the one on the dash to power an APRS tracker (8 watts).
>
> I haven't used an HF rig with the power outlets but on VHF/UHF I have no detectable noise. Again, I don't know if that would be the case at HF.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> 73, Craig WB3GCK
> http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/ <http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/>
>
>

wd8qwr

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Craig LaBarge

Gene and others,

If you look in the owner's manual you will notice that Chevy has already provided this. You need to look in the up-fitters section, which can be downloaded from the Chevy website. You will find the wiring diagram of the truck there. The accessory outlets are wired with 18 or 16AWG wire and NOT recommended for anything that draws large current above about 10 amps intermittent.

There are two ways to get the power you need into the cab. One is provided as a feed-thru from the under-hood fuse panel in the accessory wiring block in the cab above the parking brake pedal. It is a black covered block. All you need is to buy the connector and pins from the dealer or an up-fitter and put in the proper fuse. If you prefer as I did to run your own, you have plenty of room in the wiring grommet just above the box to add at least 2 10AWG wires which you can run to the battery. Add an inline fuse and attach to the battery accessory connector already on the battery using the appropriate hardware. Bring the wire through the grommet and under the carpet to the seat, where the carpet is split to be able to get it to the center console (if desired) or down the channel to the rear of the truck as desired. I mounted my radio (id880) in the tissue compartment (its is 8x10" opening or a little larger) in the back of the console; head in front of the cup holders and anten
na on the roof where it belongs.

Enjoy your install.

Phil, WD8QWR

---- Craig LaBarge <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Gene:
>
> I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 double-cab. The 12V outlet on the dashboard
> is on all the time. There's one inside the center console and one on the
> rear of the console (for rear passengers) that are switched.
>
> I don't know what the current ratings are but I use the one in the rear to
> power my Yaesu FT-8800 dual-band rig at full power (50W on 2M) with no
> issues. I occasionally use the one on the dash to power an APRS tracker (8
> watts).
>
> I haven't used an HF rig with the power outlets but on VHF/UHF I have no
> detectable noise. Again, I don't know if that would be the case at HF.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> 73, Craig WB3GCK
> http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

donovanf

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

WARNING!

For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons,
no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative
terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an
automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly
to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never
directly to the battery.

The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery.

There's an excellent discussion here:

https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm

73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: [hidden email]
To: [hidden email], "erw edl" <[hidden email]>, "Craig LaBarge" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 1:14:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Gene and others,

If you look in the owner's manual you will notice that Chevy has already provided this. You need to look in the up-fitters section, which can be downloaded from the Chevy website. You will find the wiring diagram of the truck there. The accessory outlets are wired with 18 or 16AWG wire and NOT recommended for anything that draws large current above about 10 amps intermittent.

There are two ways to get the power you need into the cab. One is provided as a feed-thru from the under-hood fuse panel in the accessory wiring block in the cab above the parking brake pedal. It is a black covered block. All you need is to buy the connector and pins from the dealer or an up-fitter and put in the proper fuse. If you prefer as I did to run your own, you have plenty of room in the wiring grommet just above the box to add at least 2 10AWG wires which you can run to the battery. Add an inline fuse and attach to the battery accessory connector already on the battery using the appropriate hardware. Bring the wire through the grommet and under the carpet to the seat, where the carpet is split to be able to get it to the center console (if desired) or down the channel to the rear of the truck as desired. I mounted my radio (id880) in the tissue compartment (its is 8x10" opening or a little larger) in the back of the console; head in front of the cup holders and anten

na on the roof where it belongs.

Enjoy your install.

Phil, WD8QWR

---- Craig LaBarge <[hidden email]> wrote:

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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Clay Autery-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Horse puckey! I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
ridiculous statement.

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, [hidden email] wrote:

> WARNING!
>
>
> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons,
> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative
> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an
> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly
> to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never
> directly to the battery.
>
>
> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery.
>
>
> There's an excellent discussion here:
>
> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>
>
> 73
> Frank
> W3LPL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email], "erw edl" <[hidden email]>, "Craig LaBarge" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 1:14:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets
>
> Gene and others,
>
> If you look in the owner's manual you will notice that Chevy has already provided this. You need to look in the up-fitters section, which can be downloaded from the Chevy website. You will find the wiring diagram of the truck there. The accessory outlets are wired with 18 or 16AWG wire and NOT recommended for anything that draws large current above about 10 amps intermittent.
>
> There are two ways to get the power you need into the cab. One is provided as a feed-thru from the under-hood fuse panel in the accessory wiring block in the cab above the parking brake pedal. It is a black covered block. All you need is to buy the connector and pins from the dealer or an up-fitter and put in the proper fuse. If you prefer as I did to run your own, you have plenty of room in the wiring grommet just above the box to add at least 2 10AWG wires which you can run to the battery. Add an inline fuse and attach to the battery accessory connector already on the battery using the appropriate hardware. Bring the wire through the grommet and under the carpet to the seat, where the carpet is split to be able to get it to the center console (if desired) or down the channel to the rear of the truck as desired. I mounted my radio (id880) in the tissue compartment (its is 8x10" opening or a little larger) in the back of the console; head in front of the cup holders and ant

>
> na on the roof where it belongs.
>
> Enjoy your install.
>
> Phil, WD8QWR
>
>
> ---- Craig LaBarge <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> Gene:
>>
>> I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 double-cab. The 12V outlet on the dashboard
>> is on all the time. There's one inside the center console and one on the
>> rear of the console (for rear passengers) that are switched.
>>
>> I don't know what the current ratings are but I use the one in the rear to
>> power my Yaesu FT-8800 dual-band rig at full power (50W on 2M) with no
>> issues. I occasionally use the one on the dash to power an APRS tracker (8
>> watts).
>>
>> I haven't used an HF rig with the power outlets but on VHF/UHF I have no
>> detectable noise. Again, I don't know if that would be the case at HF.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> 73, Craig WB3GCK
>> http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
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Nr4c

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Eugene Worth-2

Don't matter.

Go straight to battery. Run #10 cable.

You probably have a stud near under hood fuse box for accessories and like trailer power and it's fused at 20 or 30 A.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 12:48 AM, Eugene Worth <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Sorry for the OT post … but I am thinking of using one of my Elecraft rigs in the truck … mobile applications.
>
> Does anyone know the amp rating of the two 12v power outlets in the Silverado 1500 for 2017?
>
> And, if you do know, is it switched (with the ignition) or always on?
>
> Thanks in advance. I’ve tried on the Chevrolet.com <http://chevrolet.com/> website, and they simply list the outlets, not the amp rating.
>
> Nice prices now for the trucks. Thinking hard about it, but I didn’t want to run power cables from my battery to the interior of the truck if I didn’t need to.
>
> PS: This is for a 10w K2, but it would be nice to run 50w or 100w with the K3 if it would work.
>
> Thanks!
>
> gene
> WG7GW
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Vic Rosenthal

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Clay Autery-2

I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high current from the battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead to the radio, and then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several hundred amps! Lots of things can be damaged.
This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Horse puckey! I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
> ridiculous statement.
>
> ______________________
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
>> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, [hidden email] wrote:
>> WARNING!
>>
>>
>> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons,
>> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative
>> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an
>> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly
>> to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never
>> directly to the battery.
>>
>>
>> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery.
>>
>>
>> There's an excellent discussion here:
>>
>> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>>
>>
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>>

Richard gillingham-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Fuse BOTH leads at the battery...73Gil, W1RG

From: Vic Rosenthal <[hidden email]>
To: Clay Autery <[hidden email]>
Cc: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high current from the battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead to the radio, and then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several hundred amps! Lots of things can be damaged.
This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.

Vic 4X6GP

donovanf

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Nr4c

Hi Bill,

This is extremely dangerous advice, I'd hate to see someone
die in a fire as a result!

73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Nr4c" <[hidden email]>
To: "Eugene Worth" <[hidden email]>
Cc: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 3:22:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Don't matter.

Go straight to battery. Run #10 cable.

You probably have a stud near under hood fuse box for accessories and like trailer power and it's fused at 20 or 30 A.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Message delivered to [hidden email]

donovanf

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Clay Autery-2

Most of can evaluate Clay's comment with no need for further input by me

73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Clay Autery" <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 3:21:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Horse puckey! I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
ridiculous statement.

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, [hidden email] wrote:

Robert Nobis - N7RJN

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Vic Rosenthal

Hi Vic,

Just wondering, what is the probability that the ground cable would become either partially or completely disconnected? In the unlikely event this might happen, simply put an appropriately rated fuse in the ground line, in addition to the one in the positive voltage line.

73,

Bob Nobis
[hidden email]

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 08:52, Vic Rosenthal <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high current from the battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead to the radio, and then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several hundred amps! Lots of things can be damaged.
> This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.
>
> Vic 4X6GP
>
>> On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Horse puckey! I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
>> ridiculous statement.
>>
>> ______________________
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>
>>> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, [hidden email] wrote:
>>> WARNING!
>>>
>>>
>>> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons,
>>> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative
>>> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an
>>> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly
>>> to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never
>>> directly to the battery.
>>>
>>>
>>> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery.
>>>
>>>
>>> There's an excellent discussion here:
>>>
>>> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>>>
>>>
>>> 73
>>> Frank
>>> W3LPL
>>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

donovanf

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by donovanf

Here's an excellent article on how to safely install accessory wiring
in a vehicle without creating a deadly fire hazard:

http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html

73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: [hidden email]
To: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 4:07:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Hi Bill,

This is extremely dangerous advice, I'd hate to see someone
die in a fire as a result!

73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Nr4c" <[hidden email]>
To: "Eugene Worth" <[hidden email]>
Cc: [hidden email]
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 3:22:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Don't matter.

Go straight to battery. Run #10 cable.

You probably have a stud near under hood fuse box for accessories and like trailer power and it's fused at 20 or 30 A.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

Edward R Cole

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Eugene Worth-2

Sorry, I own a 2015 Ford F250, but ...

It came with four factory-mounted lever switches on the dash (which
illuminate when power is applied). Three were rated at 20A and 4th
was higher. I did have to connect the wiring from the switches using
the service manual which I downloaded from Ford site. In my case all
power is controlled by ignition via relays built-into the truck
(which I figured would save me from dead batteries).

For my main 14.2v (engine running) power I ran two No. 8 insulated
wires via a 40A relay which supplies the radios and amps at a
terminal strip under the back seat. One of the dash switches
controls that main power relay. I also have a Garmin GPSMAP on the
dash and the KX3 controlled by other two dash switches. KX3 remotely
controls the rear seat installed KXPA100.

Details: http://www.kl7uw.com/Mobile.htm

On the 5500 mile R/T to Seattle in May/June I noted no RFI to/from
the truck electronics (we picked up the trailer in Seattle).

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
[hidden email]

______________________________________________________________
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Clay Autery-2

Re: OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

In reply to this post by Richard gillingham-2

THIS... see my just submitted response for the OCD amateur engineer's
approach to creating a redundant return.

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 11:06 AM, Richard gillingham wrote:

> Fuse BOTH leads at the battery...
> 73
> Gil, W1RG
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Vic Rosenthal <[hidden email]>
> *To:* Clay Autery <[hidden email]>
> *Cc:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 27, 2017 11:53 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets
>
> I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect
> the radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground
> cable becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose
> you then try to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes,
> some of the high current from the battery negative terminal flows
> through the negative lead to the radio, and then to ground through the
> radio's mounting bracket, the coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10
> ground wire might have to carry several hundred amps! Lots of things
> can be damaged.
> This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.
>
> Vic 4X6GP
>
> > On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery <[hidden email]
> <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
> >
> > Horse puckey! I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that
> > ridiculous statement.
> >
> > ______________________
> > Clay Autery, KY5G
> >
> >> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, [hidden email]
> <mailto:[hidden email]> wrote:
> >> WARNING!
> >>
> >>
> >> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons,
> >> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative
> >> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an
> >> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly
> >> to the battery should always connect to the engine block and never
> >> directly to the battery.
> >>
> >>
> >> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery.
> >>
> >>
> >> There's an excellent discussion here:
> >>
> >> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
> >>
> >>
> >> 73
> >> Frank
> >> W3LPL
> >>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
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> Message delivered to [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
>
>