start with straight key or paddles?

[jferg977]

Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
 
If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
 
comments?
 
regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
 
 
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[Mike WA8BXN]

I think everyone should own a straight key - they come in handy at times and
do not cost that much. They will key any rig you might ever own, can't say
the same for keyers without additional circuitry. I mostly use some sort of
keyer and paddle. Which to learn on? I would lean toward the straight key
first. Going from that to the keyer/paddle should be relatively easy. The
MFJ code reader? I have one, it is not really that good (for anything) ---
there are free programs that you can run on a pc with a sound card that will
decode cw as well or better than the MFJ unit. The first step to learning CW
of course is that of receiving. As you listen to others on the air make some
notes of what others do that makes it hard to copy (like run everything
together) and try to avoid doing so yourself.

73/72 - Mike WA8BXN
 
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[Dave Lowenstein]

Dear John,

The best code reader is the one between your ears.  At one time it was
taught that you had to learn to send on a hand key but in this day of
built-in keyers, that probably isn't necessary.  I'd use the money you were
going to spend on the code reader for a keyer paddle.  Good luck learning
CW.  It's worth the effort.

73,
Dave
N7AF

----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?


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[John Young-10]

[hidden email] wrote:

> Comrades,
> I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
>  
> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
>  
> comments?
>  
> regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
>  
>  

John
    I am sure everyone will have an opinion and they will all be
different. So here goes mine along with some background.

    In the early 70's I had and instrutograph (sp) that used paper tape
to send code at any speed you set the motor drive to.  Much like the
computer generated code practice today.

    I made an offer to make code tapes for anyone that sent me a
cassette.  A high school student call and I became an Elmer via
telephone.  After several months of learning the code from the tapes I
met him in person and gave him the novice code test which he passed with
a perfect copy.  I was not required to test his sending but I had a CPO
and key with me and had him try sending for his very first time.

    What he sent sounded like it was machine sent.  It was the only code
he had ever heard.  He passed his novice, upgraded and kept his first
call for over 30 years.  He also started with QRP and has stayed with it.

    My point is don't buy any key until you know the code and can copy
with out effort at over 10 wpm.  Only then buy the paddles and keyer.
There are far too many people who think the know the code who should be
forced to copy their own sending.

    That young man was WB6JBM who was a founder of the Flying Pigs QRP Club.

73
John
WA8KNE



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[EricJ-2]

I would be VERY surprised if the code reader could outperform a decent CW
man. And to be a decent CW man, you have to spend the time copying CW
without an electronic assist such as a code reader. I would say pass on the
CW Reader. The only REAL use I see for it is hooking it up for demos to
non-hams so they know what is going on. Otherwise, I just don't see it. I'm
voting with the First Mate on this one.

I really don't see it for code practice either. Listen as much as you can to
good code and try to emulate it. Code is AURAL, not visual. Not sure why you
want to see what you're sending. You already KNOW what you're sending. Just
listen to it and learn the music and rhythm of CW.

Because I started on a straight key 48 years ago, I would say learn on a
straight key. I think it helps develop essential timing, but I'm not so sure
any more that it matters all that much how you learn it. A good keyer takes
care of the timing for you as long as you resist screwing with the weighting
to "customize" your fist. And your ear will pick up good timing from
constantly comparing yourself to good (and bad) CW.

But there is nothing more satisfying than a straight key to me. I always use
a straight key with my Rock-Mites. It just doesn't seem right to use a
paddle/keyer with simple rigs. Most of the time I use a straight key with my
K1, particularly when backpacking or daypacking because it is more rugged
and holds adjustment better in adverse conditions than a paddle. I can sit
in a canvas chair with the key in one hand and tap out Morse code with the
other. Life does get better than that, but not often. At home I always use
the internal keyer in the K2. Not sure why.

The skills are slightly different. Once you have one (straight key or
paddle/keyer) it really isn't all that difficult to go to the other. And
you'll automatically adjust going back and forth with time. I wouldn't
agonize over the decision too much. Whatever strikes your fancy now will
serve you in the end.

It's great to see a new ham already looking forward to CW. Somewhere I saw a
slogan, "Without CW, it's just CB." Welcome aboard.

Eric
KE6US

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:56 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with
the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches
expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which
appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live
on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have
convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to
get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
 
If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why
is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm
really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like
paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make
more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
 
comments?
 
regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave
amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
 
 
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[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

A straight key is versatile, but you ask a great question. You are learning
two different motions. I learned on a straight key in 1951 because almost
everyone used a straight key then. Also, one had to take a sending test in
front of an FCC examiner in the local FCC office. "Keyers" were new
technology, filled with tubes, in the hands of only a few operators. Bugs,
mechanical semi-automatic keys, were very common among the more experienced
operators. Still, few, if any, were used or allowed in tests. Everyone used
the straight key on the FCC's test desk. Learning on a straight key was
therefore crucial to getting a license!

I allowed myself to learn to use a bug after I got my General Class license,
but I kept my hand in on a straight key and passed my 20 wpm Extra Class
Amateur and my Commercial RadioTelegraph license tests using a straight key.


Nowadays, I doubt if there's much to lose learning on a modern keyer. It's
certainly easier to send  good clean CW with a key compared to either a
straight key or bug, but it still requires practice. Keyers are so common
that it's not often you are without one! However, and this is important,
there are variations in the timing from one keyer to another, particularly
if you learn Iambic or "squeeze" keying that can be maddening to change. I
built a keyer in the 1970's that I kept and used whenever I used a keyer
until I got my K2. It's a "Mode A Iambic" keyer, and I found the squeeze
keying features wonderful.

I'd not hesitate to tell someone to learn on such a keyer unless they have
some association with wanting to use a straight key.

I never use a keyer any more. I use a straight key and bug at all times. I
do that because of the challenge. It's a lot harder to send clean code on a
straight key or a bug and I don't want to lose that ability to the automatic
timing provided by a keyer. So some years ago I set my Accu-keyer aside and
haven't touched it or the Elecraft keyer logic since. This is a hobby. We do
things because they interest us, not because they are easy.

If you want to learn to send good code, do *not* use a decoder that can
decode bad code!! You want a decoder that falls into gibberish unless the
code is perfect! I use CW GET to practice on my bug. That program is
devilishly critical! But when I see row after row of perfect copy, I know my
fist is under control. After half a century I still practice regularly,
usually sending a page out of a phone book - addresses, phone numbers and
all. If I can do a page of that without a fluff, I'm a happy fellow!

One nice thing about a keyer that began with bugs is that they are less
tiring. That's why bugs became popular. Not really for more speed, but so
commercial operators could pound out messages hour after hour without
getting a "glass arm" - what we'd call tendonitis or carpel tunnel syndrome
today. The majority of commercial operators on bugs hummed along at 15 wpm
or so, tops. Some commercial services even welded the speed-regulating
weights in place on the keys so operators wouldn't be temped to speed up.
Faster CW doesn't mean faster message rates if fills are needed.

Keyers provide that same advantage, along with the ability to send faster
than most people can on a straight key if QRQ is your "thing".

You mention a boat. One thing about modern keyers is that they are quieter.
Will the first mate/CFO be working or bunking nearby while you're operating?
The clack-clack of a straight key can be downright disturbing. Bugs aren't
that much quieter either, but there's no reason for anything but a whisper
of sound from paddles.

Ron AC7AC


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[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

Just in case others are seeing this behavior...

I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message to
the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and
appeared, in some cases more than a week ago!

Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone!

Ron AC7AC


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[Margaret Leber]

[hidden email] wrote:
> Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will
> want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.
> 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I
> (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide
> much from her on the 36 boat we live on.

Once again, we see the wisdom of lifepartnering with someone with
compatible interests (not to mention separate finances).

Mine (NG3P) wanted in so bad after we went on a picnic with K2 #1641
yesterday that she's now building the KSB2.

> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be
> doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?

While I'm still working on getting my own speed up, I suspect that the
keyer vs. straight key argument is a bit of a red herring. The
important/central/difficult thing is building receive skills, and once
you have that rhythm down I can't see the keying method making much
difference...except that a keyer might make it possible for someone to
try to send much faster than he's able to send well. Or recieve, for
that matter.

Those who hew to the "no pain no gain" school of thought will insist you
start with a straight key because it will improve your character. But if
the thought of "starting out wrong" worries you, and having both a
straight key and paddles is an issue, get paddles, set the menu INP HAND
and send straight key with one paddle.

I hope your CFOs anti-redundancy policy doesn't apply to other parts of
your ship's gear. Life jackets, oars, rudders, etc. :-)

  73 de Maggie K3XS

--
-----/___.   _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress /
----/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _    `  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_      K3XS / preserve change amid/
-/ (_/   '        .-/ .-/        ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/
/________________(_/_(_/_______AMSAT 32844_/<[hidden email]>/

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[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy-2]

Received five of the idiotic self important pomposities this evening Ron,
first time though.

73, Geoff.
GM4ESD

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 10:35 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!!


> Just in case others are seeing this behavior...
>
> I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message
to
> the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and
> appeared, in some cases more than a week ago!
>
> Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone!
>
> Ron AC7AC
>

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[EricJ-2]

Yep. Just got a string of 7 or 8 from last week. I'll probably see this one
next weekend.

Eric
KE6US

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 2:36 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!!

Just in case others are seeing this behavior...

I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message to
the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and
appeared, in some cases more than a week ago!

Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone!

Ron AC7AC


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[N2EY]

In a message dated 5/8/05 3:56:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [hidden email]
writes:


> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing,
> why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what
> I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like
> paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more
> sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
>

In my limited experience, using a straight key will usually help you learn
the code in a way that other keys won't. I recommend starting out with a
straight key, then moving on to a bug or keyer once you have mastered the code at a
reasonable level.

I wouldn't bother with the MFJ unit. There are freeware programs that do the
same thing. Or you can simply tape-record yourself sending, put the tapes
aside for a week or so, then play the tapes back and see if *you* can copy them.

Another trick is to set up your code-generating software (such as the G4FON
package) to send a known text, then try to send in step with it.

As for the CFO: All the items you buy at this stage are learning tools. You
wouldn't send a child to school with only half the required supplies....

It's a good idea to listen to real live off-the-air code as well as the
machine-generated stuff. Off-air code isn't always perfect - I've known more than a
few new hams who could do good copy from computer-generated code but fell
apart on the "real thing" until they had some exposure to it.

Most of all, remember that what you're learning is a set of skills, not just
one or two, and that it takes a variety of tools to do that job.

73 de Jim, N2EY  
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[Dan Romanchik KB6NU]

I started out using a straight key 33 years ago, but I see
absolutely no reason why you shouldn't just skip the
straight key and start using a paddle/keyer combo right
away. Most rigs come with built-in keyers these days, and if
your rig does not, it's very simple to buy and build one (my
favorite is the PicoKeyer from hamgadgets.com). And in the
worst case scenario, you can always use one side of a paddle
as a straight key.

One reason I advise people to learn to send using paddles is
that they'll send better code right off. The second
reason--and perhaps the most important--is that the paddle
is so much easier the arm and wrist than a straight key.
That makes working CW more fun, and if something is more
fun, then you'll tend to do it more.

73!

Dan KB6NU
=================================================
President, ARROW Comm. Assn. (www.w8pgw.org)
ARRL MI Section Affiliated Club Coordinator
CW Geek - FISTS #9342
Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com

[hidden email] wrote:
> Comrades,
> I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
>  
> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
>  
> comments?
>  
> regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)

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[Rick Hampton-2]

Hi, John & Dan.

I started out using a straight key about the same time Dan did, but I still prefer using it over paddles.  I never did get the hang of using a keyer much past 15-20 WPM.  With the straight key, I can still send at least as fast as I can receive, about 25-30 WPM, and not get too tired.  The only reason I use the paddles on my KX1 is because they are smaller than most keys and they are "integral" to the unit, making them easy to store and carry.  At home, I use my trusty Nye Viking straight key.

Really, it's what ever floats your boat.  Good straight keys (made by Ameco, I think, and good enough to learn on) can still be found for less than $20 brand new. (http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/ the keys aren't listed, but I bought a pair for my kids to learn with not long ago.)  You might consider getting one of these and trying them.  If you like it, get a better key later.  If not, spring for a nice set of paddles and you still have a straight key if you want one.

Rick, WD8KEL

Dan KB6NU wrote:

> I started out using a straight key 33 years ago, but I see
> absolutely no reason why you shouldn't just skip the
> straight key and start using a paddle/keyer combo right
> away. Most rigs come with built-in keyers these days, and if
> your rig does not, it's very simple to buy and build one (my
> favorite is the PicoKeyer from hamgadgets.com). And in the
> worst case scenario, you can always use one side of a paddle
> as a straight key.
>
> One reason I advise people to learn to send using paddles is
> that they'll send better code right off. The second
> reason--and perhaps the most important--is that the paddle
> is so much easier the arm and wrist than a straight key.
> That makes working CW more fun, and if something is more
> fun, then you'll tend to do it more.
>
> 73!
>
> Dan KB6NU
> =================================================
> President, ARROW Comm. Assn. (www.w8pgw.org)
> ARRL MI Section Affiliated Club Coordinator
> CW Geek - FISTS #9342
> Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com
>
> [hidden email] wrote:
> > Comrades,
> > I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.
> >
> > If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
> >
> > comments?
> >
> > regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
>
> _______________________________________________
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[Tom Arntzen]

Hi John!
In 1989 we started listening to tapes with speed from 8-15wpm.
After that programs was available for pc.
For me it didn't matter what I was using.
When I went to bed I used tapes while falling asleep to have the rythm in
the ear.
Copying cw is like training for a marathon.
Your brain has to be used to perform over time to pass a cw test.
As other gentlemen here has stated , copy cw is the most important thing.
As for methods , some like to adjust slowly up in speed , while others like
to copy just above testspeed starting with
more space between the letters and slowly compress the spaces until normal
is reached.
Me to would advise to buy a straight key before advancing to paddle.
I started with straight key and sended with my writing fist then went to a
paddle , that went good.
But.... there is a but , I converted to send with my left fist so I could
have my writing fist ready with the pen.
This gave me more smooth operation , so today I paddle with my left fist and
straight keying with my right fist.
My left fist would never give good code with straight key because it tired
out and sounded like jamming after short while.

If you have a good friend that can code a book for you into a mp3 player
that would give you some satisfaction trying to decode it.
Also 5 by 5 letter code would be good to have.

Good luck John.
73 de LA1PHA

----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 9:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

> Comrades,
> I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with
> the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO
> watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things
> which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat
> we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you
> have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm
> hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.
>
> If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing,
> why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that
> what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks
> like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would
> make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
>
> comments?
>
> regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave
> amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
>
>
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>

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[EricJ-2]

I did the same thing, only I'm left handed, but the same idea. Because of
the finer dexterity needed for a straight key, I am forced to use my left
hand for that. I can send better with my right foot than my right hand. But
with a paddle I'm nearly ambidexterous. I switched to my right hand with a
paddle so that I could have my left hand free for writing notes, logging,
etc. But I found I can now use a paddle with either my left or right hand
with equal ease. All I have to do is reverse the paddle functions in the
keyer (dits always on the thumb).

Eric
KE6US



-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Tom Arntzen
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 1:58 PM
To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?


I started with straight key and sended with my writing fist then went to a
paddle , that went good.
But.... there is a but , I converted to send with my left fist so I could
have my writing fist ready with the pen.
This gave me more smooth operation , so today I paddle with my left fist and
straight keying with my right fist.
My left fist would never give good code with straight key because it tired
out and sounded like jamming after short while.
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[Mike Morrow-3]

Ron wrote:


>I kept my hand in on a straight key and passed my 20 wpm
>Extra Class Amateur and my Commercial RadioTelegraph
>license tests using a straight key.


When I took my Extra exam 25 years ago, they had already eliminated the
Morse sending test.  Too bad, I thought.  When I took my commercial
telegraph exam the same year, Morse sending tests were still required (one
minute without error at 20 wpm plain language, and16 wpm code groups).  I
still remember having qualms about using a ratty old FCC office straight key
for the 20 wpm test.  That's always been about my limit for straight key
operation.

>I built a keyer in the 1970's that I kept and used whenever I
>used a keyer until I got my K2. It's a "Mode A Iambic" keyer

Thank goodness for iambic mode A.  I never understood how mode B, the result
of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer design, caught
on.  Its timing is trickier than mode A, but it still requires exactly the
same number of hand motions to send a particular character.  But mode B
seems to have become a default mode on many of today's rigs with internal
keyers, such as the Yaesu FT-817 and SWL's DSW series.  I  bought DSW rigs
before knowing they were mode B only, but fortunately Jackson Harbor came
out with an aftermarket PIC that allowed mode A.  I resolved to never by a
rig that did not allow mode A.  I love my K1, yet if it were mode B only,
I'd never buy one.

>I use a straight key and bug at all times.

I believe the use of a straight key should be a fundamental tool in a
skilled Morse operator's tool bag.  But I never got comfortable with the
Vibroplex I've owned for decades.

I too would discourage spending money, if it is limited, on a Morse decoder.
There's never been a machine that can match the decoding skill of even a
modestly skilled Morse operator.  OTOH, the MFJ-418 code practice generator
is the best portable CW learning tool ever made, IMHO.  It's compact and can
be taken anywhere, and it can send practice text or code groups at speeds
seldom encountered on the air anymore.  I'd have loved to have had one when
I was getting ready for the random code group test for the commercial
telegraph license.  It's just fun to use, even if you've long since taken
your last Morse exam.

73,
Mike / KK5F

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[Jeff Rosenberger]

Mike wrote:
> When I took my Extra exam 25 years ago, they had already eliminated the
> Morse sending test.  Too bad, I thought.  When I took my commercial
> telegraph exam the same year, Morse sending tests were still required (one
> minute without error at 20 wpm plain language, and16 wpm code groups).  I
> still remember having qualms about using a ratty old FCC office straight key
> for the 20 wpm test.  That's always been about my limit for straight key
> operation.

How was the speed determined for a sending test?  I know I couldn't sit
down at a straight key and send at a specific numeric speed.  I can send
at a comfortable speed for me to receive, or roughly match speeds with
the other operator, but send at exactly 16wpm, no way.
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[Mike Morrow-3]

Jeff wrote:


>How was the speed determined for a sending test

All one could do is estimate the speed, and maybe send a little faster than
what the threshold was.  There was nothing wrong with sending faster than
the requirement.  Similar to the receiving test which required perfect copy
for at least one minute out of five, one had five minutes to send at or
above the required speed, with at least one minute without error.  My
examiner let me send for about a minute and a half before indicating a pass
on each of the two Morse exams.  He had to be just estimating the sending
speed...there wasn't any way (or real need) to precisely measure it back
then.

BTW, for many people the 16 wpm random code group receiving test was far
harder to pass than the 20 wpm plain language test.  Five errors during the
five minute session, spread out just right, could prevent getting the 80
consecutive correct random characters.  Unlike plain language, one couldn't
fill in for missed characters.  However, many/most professional operators
find random code groups at high speed to be very easy...the sound comes in
and the fingers hit the right key on the mill without conscious mental
effort.

73,
Mike / KK5F


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[David A. Belsley]

You simply had to send a given amount of material within a given time.

best,

dave belsley, w1euy



On May 10, 2005, at 11:23 AM, Jeff Rosenberger wrote:

> Mike wrote:
>> When I took my Extra exam 25 years ago, they had already eliminated
>> the
>> Morse sending test.  Too bad, I thought.  When I took my commercial
>> telegraph exam the same year, Morse sending tests were still required
>> (one
>> minute without error at 20 wpm plain language, and16 wpm code
>> groups).  I
>> still remember having qualms about using a ratty old FCC office
>> straight key
>> for the 20 wpm test.  That's always been about my limit for straight
>> key
>> operation.
>
> How was the speed determined for a sending test?  I know I couldn't
> sit down at a straight key and send at a specific numeric speed.  I
> can send at a comfortable speed for me to receive, or roughly match
> speeds with the other operator, but send at exactly 16wpm, no way.
> _______________________________________________
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[Vic K2VCO]

Jeff Rosenberger wrote:

> How was the speed determined for a sending test?  I know I couldn't sit
> down at a straight key and send at a specific numeric speed.  I can send
> at a comfortable speed for me to receive, or roughly match speeds with
> the other operator, but send at exactly 16wpm, no way.

In my experience, the examiner just listened a little and then said 'OK'.  I
took it twice (13 and 20 wpm), and I don't know anyone who failed it.  I don't
know about commercial tests, but I was allowed to bring a (large, homebrew)
keyer to my extra class test.  The examiner just unplugged it when he'd heard
enough (luckily I was too young to have a heart attack).

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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